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Author Topic: Stove problem  (Read 4654 times)

heffo

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Stove problem
« on: October 11, 2013, 05:32:32 PM »
Have a Waterford Stanley stove with a back boiler. There is a dial on the side for opening and closing the vent.

Works fine but even with the vent fully closed it seems to burn far too fast no matter what the fuel type.  I've seen other stoves and you can put fuel on and it burns at a normal rate.

Anything I should look for??
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moysider

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Re: Stove problem
« Reply #1 on: October 12, 2013, 08:37:25 PM »

Sounds like there's air getting in somewhere even when the vent is fully closed.

The bottom door may not be closing fully or the seal around the glass may be leaky allowing air to be sucked in by the fire and causing it to burn faster.
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heffo

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Re: Stove problem
« Reply #2 on: October 12, 2013, 09:38:30 PM »
Thanks for that. Could well be the bottom door as although the handle closes it never feels right
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Tony Baloney

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Re: Stove problem
« Reply #3 on: October 12, 2013, 11:01:15 PM »
If there is a bit of a roar off the fire there is definitely an air leak. Is the door sealed with a fire rope? These get flattened over time with repeated door closings and need to be replaced.
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heffo

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Re: Stove problem
« Reply #4 on: October 13, 2013, 01:00:20 PM »
Quote from: Tony Baloney on October 12, 2013, 11:01:15 PM
If there is a bit of a roar off the fire there is definitely an air leak. Is the door sealed with a fire rope? These get flattened over time with repeated door closings and need to be replaced.

Fire definitely 'roars' as in it blazes even when there is coal on it & it's turned right down and should just be ticking over.

There is a fire roap top and bottom, the top one though has come loose in parts - there are four hinges in each corner that I can take off and it looks like the rope can be put back in place this way - is this worth doing?
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illdecide

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Re: Stove problem
« Reply #5 on: October 14, 2013, 10:53:19 AM »
More importantly if your door is not sealed properly or some vent is not working you could be in danger of Carbon Monoxide poisoning, please get it checked out...
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heffo

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Re: Stove problem
« Reply #6 on: October 14, 2013, 11:03:41 AM »
Will do - thanks all for the help
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johnneycool

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Re: Stove problem
« Reply #7 on: October 14, 2013, 11:34:32 AM »
Quote from: heffo on October 13, 2013, 01:00:20 PM
Quote from: Tony Baloney on October 12, 2013, 11:01:15 PM
If there is a bit of a roar off the fire there is definitely an air leak. Is the door sealed with a fire rope? These get flattened over time with repeated door closings and need to be replaced.

Fire definitely 'roars' as in it blazes even when there is coal on it & it's turned right down and should just be ticking over.

There is a fire roap top and bottom, the top one though has come loose in parts - there are four hinges in each corner that I can take off and it looks like the rope can be put back in place this way - is this worth doing?

Get a new rope and fire resistance adhesive from any decent stove shop. I'd to do mine a few weeks back, its only a few quid, I've a two door stove and the rope and adhesive was less than a tenner.

Bring the old rope with you as then they'll know what thickness of rope to give you and also get them to give you a bit of tape to seal up the ends once you cut it to size.
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heffo

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Re: Stove problem
« Reply #8 on: October 14, 2013, 11:38:14 AM »
Quote from: johnneycool on October 14, 2013, 11:34:32 AM
Quote from: heffo on October 13, 2013, 01:00:20 PM
Quote from: Tony Baloney on October 12, 2013, 11:01:15 PM
If there is a bit of a roar off the fire there is definitely an air leak. Is the door sealed with a fire rope? These get flattened over time with repeated door closings and need to be replaced.

Fire definitely 'roars' as in it blazes even when there is coal on it & it's turned right down and should just be ticking over.

There is a fire roap top and bottom, the top one though has come loose in parts - there are four hinges in each corner that I can take off and it looks like the rope can be put back in place this way - is this worth doing?

Get a new rope and fire resistance adhesive from any decent stove shop. I'd to do mine a few weeks back, its only a few quid, I've a two door stove and the rope and adhesive was less than a tenner.

Bring the old rope with you as then they'll know what thickness of rope to give you and also get them to give you a bit of tape to seal up the ends once you cut it to size.

Excellent cheers will do
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redzone

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Re: Stove problem
« Reply #9 on: January 13, 2018, 08:45:15 PM »
Anyone got a Stanley aishling stove. When the air knob on the right is at 0 is the vent completely closed or is there still a space?
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Owen Brannigan

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Re: Stove problem
« Reply #10 on: January 13, 2018, 09:16:31 PM »
Quote from: illdecide on October 14, 2013, 10:53:19 AM
More importantly if your door is not sealed properly or some vent is not working you could be in danger of Carbon Monoxide poisoning, please get it checked out...

You should get a carbon monoxide detector for any room where fuel is burned.
« Last Edit: January 13, 2018, 09:48:02 PM by Owen Brannigan »
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hardstation

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Re: Stove problem
« Reply #11 on: January 13, 2018, 09:18:14 PM »
Quote from: Owen Brannigan on January 13, 2018, 09:16:31 PM
Quote from: illdecide on October 14, 2013, 10:53:19 AM
More importantly if your door is not sealed properly or some vent is not working you could be in danger of Carbon Monoxide poisoning, please get it checked out...

You should get a carbon monoxide detector for the room.
....if you haven’t already snuffed it.
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theskull1

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Re: Stove problem
« Reply #12 on: January 14, 2018, 01:37:59 AM »
Quote from: illdecide on October 14, 2013, 10:53:19 AM
More importantly if your door is not sealed properly or some vent is not working you could be in danger of Carbon Monoxide poisoning, please get it checked out...

Is that not a load of oul leeks?

My stove by design doesn't have a rope sealed door. It metal to metal when the door closes fully and the draw goes up the chimney. No?
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giveherlong

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Re: Stove problem
« Reply #13 on: November 10, 2018, 11:58:56 AM »
Anyone got a Stanley Reginald stove with back boiler?
I have an external air supply from one side of house (west facing). Good draw of air coming in
I find the stove more responsive to the secondary air control ie the bar at the underside of the stove
The primary air control knob at the back- the thermostat- seems to have little or no impact on the roar of the fire compared to the secondary air control which cuts off the roar and dulls the redness of fire when closed down.

Anybody else similar experience with a Reginald?
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