Ok, here is the deal. I am looking for some free advertising on here for my business. In return I will try to advise on or answer any questions about car problems to the best of my ability.
I have a car business in Ballygawley where I sell, service, MOT/NCT and clean cars. We also supply and fit a full range of Tyres.
We are currently working on expanding the service end of the business and have invested in up to date equipment including Diagnostics for most vehicles.
I have a mechanic working for me that has 15 years experience 8 of which was at a VW dealership and is fully up to date with VW training.
We can service any type of car including timing belts/flywheels/clutches/brakes etc.
We aim to be very competitive with our prices as all we want to do is fill hours and build up a name for being good value as well as good standard of work.
Fire away with any questions and I will try to help.
Garrett.
Yes lad, I've a mk4 Golf diesel that's leaking coolant like there's no tomorrow. Been doing this near two years.
Manageable if I keep journey distances short but if I do anything over 60-90 mins the light comes on and starts buzzing away - especially likely to happen if I'm doing 70-80mph+ on these journeys. I've had another VW mechanic look at it and he can't find a solution but I would like another opinion. It's pure annoying.
Quote from: fitzroyalty on August 29, 2012, 06:06:18 PM
Yes lad, I've a mk4 Golf diesel that's leaking coolant like there's no tomorrow. Been doing this near two years.
Manageable if I keep journey distances short but if I do anything over 60-90 mins the light comes on and starts buzzing away - especially likely to happen if I'm doing 70-80mph+ on these journeys. I've had another VW mechanic look at it and he can't find a solution but I would like another opinion. It's pure annoying.
Is it actually leakIng coolant though and needs topped up constantly? Surely you just find the leak and fix it. If it is a pinhole in the radiator then just fire a bottle of Radweld in. I assume it isnt as simple as this...
*Complete hijacking of thread alert*
Whats the story with child seats in the front of a car?
I can't turn off the passenger airbag in my van but as the wife is back to work next week and her parents are going to be minding the young lad I am going to have to pick him up someday's in my van.
If the child seat is rear facing the air bag has to be off right? I don't understand that as the car child seats are fairly solid so how is it dangerous for the child?
Quote from: fitzroyalty on August 29, 2012, 06:06:18 PM
Yes lad, I've a mk4 Golf diesel that's leaking coolant like there's no tomorrow. Been doing this near two years.
Manageable if I keep journey distances short but if I do anything over 60-90 mins the light comes on and starts buzzing away - especially likely to happen if I'm doing 70-80mph+ on these journeys. I've had another VW mechanic look at it and he can't find a solution but I would like another opinion. It's pure annoying.
The most common place for this model to leak coolant is at the water temp sensor. It is on the right hand side of the cylinder head as you look in. It has a rubber o ring seal that perishes and leaks. That is the first place I would look.
I would avoid any sort of 'rad leak' as it may fix the leak but can cause other problems.
Quote from: laoislad on August 29, 2012, 06:46:32 PM
*Complete hijacking of thread alert*
Whats the story with child seats in the front of a car?
I can't turn off the passenger airbag in my van but as the wife is back to work next week and her parents are going to be minding the young lad I am going to have to pick him up someday's in my van.
If the child seat is rear facing the air bag has to be off right? I don't understand that as the car child seats are fairly solid so how is it dangerous for the child?
When an airbag goes off it has an explosive reaction that could shift any child seat and can release
gas that causes flash burns.
There also may be issues with the law/insurance with having a child seat in the front of a vehicle not designed for such.
know the new law
on child car seats
New EU child safety protection laws have come into force
making it compulsory for all children to travel in the
correct child seat, booster seat or booster cushion
Where safety belts have been fitted they must be worn
Children under 3 years of age must not travel in a car or goods
vehicle (other than a taxi) unless restrained in the correct child seatChildren aged 3 years or over who are under 150cms in height and
weighing less than 36 kilograms (i.e. generally children up to 11/12
years old) must use the correct child seat, booster seat or booster
cushion when travelling in cars or goods vehicles
Children over 3 years of age must travel in a rear seat in vehicles
not fitted with safety belts
Rearward-facing child car seats must NEVER be used in the front
passenger seat of cars with an active airbag
Child car seats must be in accordance with EU or United Nations-
Economic Commission for Europe (UN-ECE) standards
Drivers have a legal responsibility to ensure passengers aged under
17 use the correct seat, booster seat, booster cushion or seatbelt
You will have to have the airbag taken out or switched off
Thanks Gerry. That explains it pretty well. What type of van is it LL? Some times if you take it to the official dealer they can switch it off without disabling the drivers airbag.
Can't be done I'm told gerrykeegan, I was told in Opels they can only deactivate all the airbags thus leaving me with no airbag.
I know the new law alright I just don't understand why its so dangerous.
I also read on the rsa website that if the child is 20lbs and above it can go into a suitable front facing seat but the airbag must be on, I'm really just curious why it's ok to have the airbag on when it's front facing but not when it's rear facing.
Rear facing childseat in front seat is not as secure fastened. Air bag could tilt the seat into the back of the carseat.
Here is a You tube video about child seats and airbags.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZlQ09ZGGOWs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JOe6amPS618&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0XqandZ0uo&feature=related
Quote from: Tony Baloney on August 29, 2012, 06:42:15 PM
Quote from: fitzroyalty on August 29, 2012, 06:06:18 PM
Yes lad, I've a mk4 Golf diesel that's leaking coolant like there's no tomorrow. Been doing this near two years.
Manageable if I keep journey distances short but if I do anything over 60-90 mins the light comes on and starts buzzing away - especially likely to happen if I'm doing 70-80mph+ on these journeys. I've had another VW mechanic look at it and he can't find a solution but I would like another opinion. It's pure annoying.
Is it actually leakIng coolant though and needs topped up constantly? Surely you just find the leak and fix it. If it is a pinhole in the radiator then just fire a bottle of Radweld in. I assume it isnt as simple as this...
Yes it's poison, I haven't actually looked myself but a mechanic did before and he couldn't find it, can't see me ahving any joy.
Quote from: GJL on August 29, 2012, 06:52:25 PM
The most common place for this model to leak coolant is at the water temp sensor. It is on the right hand side of the cylinder head as you look in. It has a rubber o ring seal that perishes and leaks. That is the first place I would look.
I would avoid any sort of 'rad leak' as it may fix the leak but can cause other problems.
Many thanks for that. Gentleman.
Would anyone have an idea as to how much it would cost to replace a gearbox in a VW Golf that is 5 years old?
Anyone know who's is good near Belfast on Audi electrics?
Quote from: under the bar on August 30, 2012, 01:11:16 AM
Anyone know who's is good near Belfast on Audi electrics?
What is the exact electrical problem? We are 50 minutes from Belfast down the M1.
Quote from: Armaghgeddon on August 30, 2012, 12:39:23 AM
Would anyone have an idea as to how much it would cost to replace a gearbox in a VW Golf that is 5 years old?
3 to 4 hours labour (we charge £20 per hour) plus the price of a second hand box. This could be £150 to £400 depending on the type of box required and who you buy it from.
god those German Cars cause alot of problems.
get a good Jap car, never let you down. ;D ;D ;D ;D
Quote from: Mac Eoghain on August 30, 2012, 11:03:14 AM
Car in for a bit of a service today at a non-dealer garage, I won't find out the cost until I dander up to get it later - getting the following done - Oil & Filter change, Rear Discs & Pads. IS220D. Who can guess what it will cost including VAT? No prizes for the closest guess.
£160
@GJL - How are you with Fords?
I have a 2006 1.8 FOCUS LX TDCI
A long story, but about 6 months ago I got some questionable Diesel. It needed pushed to start and produced great black clouds of smoke but then drove ok once it was going.
I took it to a friend of a friend and he had it for about 10 days and said the diesel pump needed replacing. It ended up costing me a fortune.
I've noticed since that it hasn't got the same power. When I put the foot down, the revs go away up past where they need to but there's no real increase in power, so its now crap at overtaking.
Have you any ideas? Is it probably linked to the fuel pump?
If it was something simple I could get sorted at my next service ,I'd get it sorted, otherwise I'll probably just ignore it
Sounds like a strange one wee donns. Revving up with no acceleration sounds like a slipping clutch. Where are you? If I drove the car I could tell a lot more!
Quote from: WeeDonns on August 30, 2012, 11:26:21 AM
@GJL - How are you with Fords?
I have a 2006 1.8 FOCUS LX TDCI
A long story, but about 6 months ago I got some questionable Diesel. It needed pushed to start and produced great black clouds of smoke but then drove ok once it was going.
I took it to a friend of a friend and he had it for about 10 days and said the diesel pump needed replacing. It ended up costing me a fortune.
I’ve noticed since that it hasn’t got the same power. When I put the foot down, the revs go away up past where they need to but there’s no real increase in power, so its now crap at overtaking.
Have you any ideas? Is it probably linked to the fuel pump?
If it was something simple I could get sorted at my next service ,I’d get it sorted, otherwise I’ll probably just ignore it
That sounds like a problem with the turbo to me.
Quote from: GJL on August 30, 2012, 09:39:26 AM
Quote from: Armaghgeddon on August 30, 2012, 12:39:23 AM
Would anyone have an idea as to how much it would cost to replace a gearbox in a VW Golf that is 5 years old?
3 to 4 hours labour (we charge £20 per hour) plus the price of a second hand box. This could be £150 to £400 depending on the type of box required and who you buy it from.
I have been quoted £1100, £900 to recondition the gear box.
Quote from: Armaghgeddon on August 30, 2012, 01:53:56 PM
Quote from: GJL on August 30, 2012, 09:39:26 AM
Quote from: Armaghgeddon on August 30, 2012, 12:39:23 AM
Would anyone have an idea as to how much it would cost to replace a gearbox in a VW Golf that is 5 years old?
3 to 4 hours labour (we charge £20 per hour) plus the price of a second hand box. This could be £150 to £400 depending on the type of box required and who you buy it from.
I have been quoted £1100, £900 to recondition the gear box.
Reconning a box is very expensive and as I said a second hand box can be the cheapest way out. What is the BHP of the car? Is it 5 speed or 6 speed?
Quote from: onefaircounty on August 30, 2012, 01:40:15 PM
Quote from: WeeDonns on August 30, 2012, 11:26:21 AM
@GJL - How are you with Fords?
I have a 2006 1.8 FOCUS LX TDCI
A long story, but about 6 months ago I got some questionable Diesel. It needed pushed to start and produced great black clouds of smoke but then drove ok once it was going.
I took it to a friend of a friend and he had it for about 10 days and said the diesel pump needed replacing. It ended up costing me a fortune.
I've noticed since that it hasn't got the same power. When I put the foot down, the revs go away up past where they need to but there's no real increase in power, so its now crap at overtaking.
Have you any ideas? Is it probably linked to the fuel pump?
If it was something simple I could get sorted at my next service ,I'd get it sorted, otherwise I'll probably just ignore it
That sounds like a problem with the turbo to me.
Possibly though if turbo is not functioning the revs would be very slow to pick up. Like I said if I drove the car it would be a lot more apparent.
I've a 2006 2.0TDI Jetta and every once in a while whilst turning left (only) the ESP (I think that's what its called), break warning and air bag lights go on.
The car loses power for a split second, but the ESP light stays on until I restart the car after letting it sit for and hour or two. The airbag light is still on now and probably needs reset, but what would cause that?
I can fly into a right handed turn no bother!
Also the emissions garage warning is coming up after I stalled the car recently. Is that a genuine problem or just another sensor rest?
Car is struggling to start. Keeps coming up on the dash saying 'injection fault'. Ive put some injection clearer in the other day. Hasn't made any difference yet. What's the craic here then? Renault Megane, 70,000 miles, diesel by the way.
Quote from: JimStynes on August 30, 2012, 03:54:37 PM
Car is struggling to start. Keeps coming up on the dash saying 'injection fault'. Ive put some injection clearer in the other day. Hasn't made any difference yet. What's the craic here then? Renault Megane, 70,000 miles, diesel by the way.
The craic is don't ever buy a Renault.
Quote from: Jonah on August 30, 2012, 03:58:12 PM
Quote from: JimStynes on August 30, 2012, 03:54:37 PM
Car is struggling to start. Keeps coming up on the dash saying 'injection fault'. Ive put some injection clearer in the other day. Hasn't made any difference yet. What's the craic here then? Renault Megane, 70,000 miles, diesel by the way.
The craic is don't ever buy a Renault.
Aye they're useless but my parents gave it to me a couple of years ago. I am going to change to something when I get a little more money saved up. Any recommendations on what is a good car? I was thinking of an Audi A3, golf, BMW 1 series or something.
Quote from: JimStynes on August 30, 2012, 04:09:23 PM
Quote from: Jonah on August 30, 2012, 03:58:12 PM
Quote from: JimStynes on August 30, 2012, 03:54:37 PM
Car is struggling to start. Keeps coming up on the dash saying 'injection fault'. Ive put some injection clearer in the other day. Hasn't made any difference yet. What's the craic here then? Renault Megane, 70,000 miles, diesel by the way.
The craic is don't ever buy a Renault.
Aye they're useless but my parents gave it to me a couple of years ago. I am going to change to something when I get a little more money saved up. Any recommendations on what is a good car? I was thinking of an Audi A3, golf, BMW 1 series or something.
I have seen this a few time in meganes.
It is either heater plugs expired (cheap)
or
injectors need refurbished (expensive)
Get the heater plugs checked first.
Quote from: johnneycool on August 30, 2012, 03:33:07 PM
I've a 2006 2.0TDI Jetta and every once in a while whilst turning left (only) the ESP (I think that's what its called), break warning and air bag lights go on.
The car loses power for a split second, but the ESP light stays on until I restart the car after letting it sit for and hour or two. The airbag light is still on now and probably needs reset, but what would cause that?
I can fly into a right handed turn no bother!
Also the emissions garage warning is coming up after I stalled the car recently. Is that a genuine problem or just another sensor rest?
You have some sort of electronic sensor problem. The best way to find out would be to run a diagnostic on it while all the warning lights are on. We can do that.
Quote from: GJL on August 30, 2012, 04:38:09 PM
Quote from: JimStynes on August 30, 2012, 04:09:23 PM
Quote from: Jonah on August 30, 2012, 03:58:12 PM
Quote from: JimStynes on August 30, 2012, 03:54:37 PM
Car is struggling to start. Keeps coming up on the dash saying 'injection fault'. Ive put some injection clearer in the other day. Hasn't made any difference yet. What's the craic here then? Renault Megane, 70,000 miles, diesel by the way.
The craic is don't ever buy a Renault.
Aye they're useless but my parents gave it to me a couple of years ago. I am going to change to something when I get a little more money saved up. Any recommendations on what is a good car? I was thinking of an Audi A3, golf, BMW 1 series or something.
I have seen this a few time in meganes.
It is either heater plugs expired (cheap)
or
injectors need refurbished (expensive)
Get the heater plugs checked first.
how expensive for the injectors?
Hope you get some business from this GJL. Your rates seem good. Pity I'm in Cavan.
Quote from: Denn Forever on August 30, 2012, 05:47:49 PM
Hope you get some business from this GJL. Your rates seem good. Pity I'm in Cavan.
Hope to be busy. Thanks.
Quote from: JimStynes on August 30, 2012, 04:43:51 PM
Quote from: GJL on August 30, 2012, 04:38:09 PM
Quote from: JimStynes on August 30, 2012, 04:09:23 PM
Quote from: Jonah on August 30, 2012, 03:58:12 PM
Quote from: JimStynes on August 30, 2012, 03:54:37 PM
Car is struggling to start. Keeps coming up on the dash saying 'injection fault'. Ive put some injection clearer in the other day. Hasn't made any difference yet. What's the craic here then? Renault Megane, 70,000 miles, diesel by the way.
The craic is don't ever buy a Renault.
Aye they're useless but my parents gave it to me a couple of years ago. I am going to change to something when I get a little more money saved up. Any recommendations on what is a good car? I was thinking of an Audi A3, golf, BMW 1 series or something.
I have seen this a few time in meganes.
It is either heater plugs expired (cheap)
or
injectors need refurbished (expensive)
Get the heater plugs checked first.
how expensive for the injectors?
Not cheap at all I'm afraid. From memory the last time we got some done they were £120 each. There are 4 in your car.
Quote from: GJL on August 30, 2012, 02:05:33 PM
Quote from: Armaghgeddon on August 30, 2012, 01:53:56 PM
Quote from: GJL on August 30, 2012, 09:39:26 AM
Quote from: Armaghgeddon on August 30, 2012, 12:39:23 AM
Would anyone have an idea as to how much it would cost to replace a gearbox in a VW Golf that is 5 years old?
3 to 4 hours labour (we charge £20 per hour) plus the price of a second hand box. This could be £150 to £400 depending on the type of box required and who you buy it from.
I have been quoted £1100, £900 to recondition the gear box.
Reconning a box is very expensive and as I said a second hand box can be the cheapest way out. What is the BHP of the car? Is it 5 speed or 6 speed?
Its a 6 speed not sure what the BHP is
Youse are a shower of robbing cnuts taking this chaps advice. Get the cars left down to Ballygawley.
Quote from: WeeDonns on August 30, 2012, 11:26:21 AM
@GJL - How are you with Fords?
I have a 2006 1.8 FOCUS LX TDCI
A long story, but about 6 months ago I got some questionable Diesel. It needed pushed to start and produced great black clouds of smoke but then drove ok once it was going.
I took it to a friend of a friend and he had it for about 10 days and said the diesel pump needed replacing. It ended up costing me a fortune.
I've noticed since that it hasn't got the same power. When I put the foot down, the revs go away up past where they need to but there's no real increase in power, so its now crap at overtaking.
Have you any ideas? Is it probably linked to the fuel pump?
If it was something simple I could get sorted at my next service ,I'd get it sorted, otherwise I'll probably just ignore it
Sounds like injectors to me. A slipping clutch would bring up a different type of bother, taking off e.t.c. I'd imagine it's still linked to your diesel pump or more likely to your injectors (which I would have thought were the problem in a common rail engine the first time she broke).
Quote from: trileacman on August 30, 2012, 09:00:47 PM
Quote from: WeeDonns on August 30, 2012, 11:26:21 AM
@GJL - How are you with Fords?
I have a 2006 1.8 FOCUS LX TDCI
A long story, but about 6 months ago I got some questionable Diesel. It needed pushed to start and produced great black clouds of smoke but then drove ok once it was going.
I took it to a friend of a friend and he had it for about 10 days and said the diesel pump needed replacing. It ended up costing me a fortune.
I've noticed since that it hasn't got the same power. When I put the foot down, the revs go away up past where they need to but there's no real increase in power, so its now crap at overtaking.
Have you any ideas? Is it probably linked to the fuel pump?
If it was something simple I could get sorted at my next service ,I'd get it sorted, otherwise I'll probably just ignore it
My heart and bank account was broke with injector problems in a TDI Focus a couple of years ago.
Sounds like injectors to me. A slipping clutch would bring up a different type of bother, taking off e.t.c. I'd imagine it's still linked to your diesel pump or more likely to your injectors (which I would have thought were the problem in a common rail engine the first time she broke).
Quote from: GJL on August 30, 2012, 04:40:04 PM
Quote from: johnneycool on August 30, 2012, 03:33:07 PM
I've a 2006 2.0TDI Jetta and every once in a while whilst turning left (only) the ESP (I think that's what its called), break warning and air bag lights go on.
The car loses power for a split second, but the ESP light stays on until I restart the car after letting it sit for and hour or two. The airbag light is still on now and probably needs reset, but what would cause that?
I can fly into a right handed turn no bother!
Also the emissions garage warning is coming up after I stalled the car recently. Is that a genuine problem or just another sensor rest?
You have some sort of electronic sensor problem. The best way to find out would be to run a diagnostic on it while all the warning lights are on. We can do that.
This new sensor craic in cars is a real bitch. Can take f**king ages to find these wee problems and there usually about sweet fa.
Quote from: Armaghgeddon on August 30, 2012, 08:34:53 PM
Quote from: GJL on August 30, 2012, 02:05:33 PM
Quote from: Armaghgeddon on August 30, 2012, 01:53:56 PM
Quote from: GJL on August 30, 2012, 09:39:26 AM
Quote from: Armaghgeddon on August 30, 2012, 12:39:23 AM
Would anyone have an idea as to how much it would cost to replace a gearbox in a VW Golf that is 5 years old?
3 to 4 hours labour (we charge £20 per hour) plus the price of a second hand box. This could be £150 to £400 depending on the type of box required and who you buy it from.
I have been quoted £1100, £900 to recondition the gear box.
Reconning a box is very expensive and as I said a second hand box can be the cheapest way out. What is the BHP of the car? Is it 5 speed or 6 speed?
Its a 6 speed not sure what the BHP is
1.9 (105 bhp) or 2.0 (140 bhp) ?
1.9 6 speed boxes are hard to get 2nd hand. 2.0 6 speed are easy to get.
(http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/s480x480/576861_276902755748114_1900569256_n.jpg)
£20 per hour folks!
Call me on 07771813386.
Garrett.
Alot of big ticket price parts on diesels nowadays and every engine has it's fault trends. Just looking to know what engine(s) are the most robust and what engines are a no no for the second hand buyer?
Quote from: theskull1 on September 03, 2012, 06:06:53 PM
Alot of big ticket price parts on diesels nowadays and every engine has it's fault trends. Just looking to know what engine(s) are the most robust and what engines are a no no for the second hand buyer?
My mechanic says Avensis 2.0d and Honda ictdi.
my cd player in my mk5 golf often rejects cds saying cd error, even brand new cds. anybody know why this would be the case, are golfs cd players notoriously bad?
Quote from: tyrone exile on September 04, 2012, 01:42:40 PM
my cd player in my mk5 golf often rejects cds saying cd error, even brand new cds. anybody know why this would be the case, are golfs cd players notoriously bad?
Call into a breakers yard and get one out of a breaker. They should only be £30-£50. You might have to get it de-coded. Much cheaper than a new one or getting yours fixed.
thanks very much
or alternatively take the thing apart and clean the laser head with a bit of pure alcohol and lint free cloth.
Tyre special offer prices.
195/65R15 £47
205/55R16 £50
225/45R17 £53
225/40R18 £55
235/35R19 £65
The above sizes are just a selection of what we have in stock They are 5 of the most common sizes. The price includes fitting/balancing and VAT.
We also keep tyres for 4x4s and small/medium vans.
Garrett, the air con in my car isn't working at all. No air blowing out whatsoever. What could cause it? New filter needed?
what type of car and what year is it. No air at all as in blower not working or is it blowing but not chilled?
Blower not working at all. I'll pm you the details. Do you open Saturdays?
honestjohn.co.uk is a good spot to get reviews on second hand cars
(http://sphotos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/s480x480/564327_282878705150519_435502039_n.jpg)
2009 Audi A4 2.0 TDi 143BHP S-Line executive. Full Black leather interior, 58000miles with full service history. Blue tooth phone prep. Plenty of extras. Stunning! £15000.
Garrett 07771813386.
http://www.loughrancars.co.uk/stock.html?car=98385816 (http://www.loughrancars.co.uk/stock.html?car=98385816)
Parking the car this morning and a red light with a steering wheel and lock comes on.checked on the web it could be the steering wheel column and could cost £500 in some cases or possibly reprogramme on the computer.Anyone know anything about this type of thing?
looking for centre wheel cover caps for a 2000 ford focus, anyone know best place to get them?
Also the boot lid of my 5 door Mazda 6 has gone off centre. Car never been hit, any ideas??
The boot in of our Picaso keeps locking and opening whenever it wants, I think it's possessed, any ideas? The local priest won't do an exorcism
Quote from: Milltown Row2 on September 25, 2012, 01:02:22 PM
The boot in of our Picaso keeps locking and opening whenever it wants, I think it's possessed, any ideas? The local priest won't do an exorcism
Try paying your tax and he might come out and do something for you! ;)
Quote from: NAG1 on September 25, 2012, 01:50:56 PM
Quote from: Milltown Row2 on September 25, 2012, 01:02:22 PM
The boot in of our Picaso keeps locking and opening whenever it wants, I think it's possessed, any ideas? The local priest won't do an exorcism
Try paying your tax and he might come out and do something for you! ;)
Oh the jokes are flying ::)
Right - car started making a funny noise as of yesterday. The engine sounds much louder when in neutral and rattles funnily when I'm trying to get to biting point. Fine when I'm on the move and accelerating.
It's a VW Eos TDi with 60k miles (and a leaky roof, and if you could fix that, I'd be down to Ballygawley in a heartbeat!). Any thoughts?
Quote from: Rois on September 26, 2012, 09:27:10 AM
Right - car started making a funny noise as of yesterday. The engine sounds much louder when in neutral and rattles funnily when I'm trying to get to biting point. Fine when I'm on the move and accelerating.
It's a VW Eos TDi with 60k miles (and a leaky roof, and if you could fix that, I'd be down to Ballygawley in a heartbeat!). Any thoughts?
Sounds like you need a clutch/flywheel replacement. Expensive enough job to be honest. The leaky roof we could look at as well.
Ah no way, really? Ballpark? And how long before it goes?
Could you really look at leaky roof? Donnellys only have one person in NI who is trained in Eos roofs which is why I am surprised, and he found nothing when I left it with him previously.
Car failed MOT yesterday, said it was missing dust caps on the suspension at front of car?? Any info on these? Oh and need breake disc for rear wheel ffs
Quote from: Milltown Row2 on October 14, 2012, 11:15:15 AM
Car failed MOT yesterday, said it was missing dust caps on the suspension at front of car?? Any info on these? Oh and need breake disc for rear wheel ffs
Those guys at the MOT are getting carried away. I have never heard of a failure for that reason before. If you are replacing a brake disc I would advise you do both sides.
Quote from: GJL on October 14, 2012, 01:19:43 PM
Quote from: Milltown Row2 on October 14, 2012, 11:15:15 AM
Car failed MOT yesterday, said it was missing dust caps on the suspension at front of car?? Any info on these? Oh and need breake disc for rear wheel ffs
Those guys at the MOT are getting carried away. I have never heard of a failure for that reason before. If you are replacing a brake disc I would advise you do both sides.
Aye he said they were minors but sure what can you do?? Stay away from Mallusk MOT centre
New regs for MOT this year so all the boy racers are in for a shock. Very little will be missed.
I remember years ago a **** poking at a rust spot on the exhaust until the screwdriver went through it. "You have a hole in your exhaust" says he >:(
Quote from: GJL on October 14, 2012, 01:19:43 PM
Quote from: Milltown Row2 on October 14, 2012, 11:15:15 AM
Car failed MOT yesterday, said it was missing dust caps on the suspension at front of car?? Any info on these? Oh and need breake disc for rear wheel ffs
Those guys at the MOT are getting carried away. I have never heard of a failure for that reason before. If you are replacing a brake disc I would advise you do both sides.
Where would I pick up these dust cap thingys. Scrap yard?
Free Free Free!
Free winter check on you car. Call in and we will check your tyres, antifreeze, all fluid levels etc.
A light has flashed on my dash, checked the book and it says that my exhaust emmissions are high and this may cause problems with my cat converter. MOT is up next month, could I leave it until then to get checked?
southdown, do you have a VW? It happened me this time last year and I waited until Jan to get fixed (prob not ideal) but car was ok.
astra, hoping it will be fine for a bit :-\
It would be quite useful for people to provide a bit more detail of the car, the year and the engine
I'm thinking the egr is giving bother. These can be cleaned/freed up in a lot of cases. A diy job.
astra 1.6 sxi 2005
Had serious bother with the EGR in the wife's Zafira. Kept cutting out at low revs and it was cleaned with brake cleaner etc. a few times but eventually had to be replaced. Luckily the car was still in warranty but it is a definite design flaw in Vauxhall cars (google it!). Apparently blanking it off and disabling the dashboard light is the best permanent solution (according to various Vauxhall boards) - ours was replaced about 18 months and no bother since.
Quote from: Tony Baloney on October 22, 2012, 01:40:17 PM
Had serious bother with the EGR in the wife's Zafira. Kept cutting out at low revs and it was cleaned with brake cleaner etc. a few times but eventually had to be replaced. Luckily the car was still in warranty but it is a definite design flaw in Vauxhall cars (google it!). Apparently blanking it off and disabling the dashboard light is the best permanent solution (according to various Vauxhall boards) - ours was replaced about 18 months and no bother since.
Alot of the time the solenoid needs popped out, cleaned and relubricated to make sure the actuator moves freely. Most mechanics just clean the (exhaust side) valve itself. Theres how2's online of how to go about this...easy to do. Blanking off is the other option of course
Cleaning them out does for a while but I usually like to just replace them and not have to redo the job again in a few months.
A few cars I have for sale.
www.loughrancars.co.uk (http://www.loughrancars.co.uk)
A few more to go on-line in the next few days.
Busy at present in the workshop servicing and MOTing cars but always room for more if anyone wants some good value.
Have you checked your tyres recently? Get them checked as we are heading for cold weather. It could save you an accident or a few points. ;)
Went to get my front tyres changed earlier, well overdue. The lad said one of my back tyres was a run flat (BMW only) and it should be changed straight away. I bought it as a part woren as while back and it has plenty of thread left, should I be changing it. Car is an audi a3 btw.
Quote from: Link on December 07, 2012, 01:12:43 PM
Went to get my front tyres changed earlier, well overdue. The lad said one of my back tyres was a run flat (BMW only) and it should be changed straight away. I bought it as a part woren as while back and it has plenty of thread left, should I be changing it. Car is an audi a3 btw.
No.
Strictly speaking a runflat should only be on cars with tyre pressure sensors. If you regulary check tyre pressures it should be fine but in future if you are getting part worns avoid runflats as they are very stiff and will take away from the car's comfort.
Hi,
Have a 2007 mondeo and the passenger side indicators lights both front and back have stopped. Thought it might be the fuse but the side light still works and my friend reckons it wouldn't if the fuse had gone, so he thinks it's something else. The bulbs are ok.
Any ideas?
Will an airbag warning light fail the NCT?
Quote from: trueblue1234 on December 07, 2012, 03:33:04 PM
Hi,
Have a 2007 mondeo and the passenger side indicators lights both front and back have stopped. Thought it might be the fuse but the side light still works and my friend reckons it wouldn't if the fuse had gone, so he thinks it's something else. The bulbs are ok.
Any ideas?
Side lights and indicators are on separate fuses. Are they working if you put on the hazard lights?
Quote from: Hardy on December 08, 2012, 10:49:13 AM
Will an airbag warning light fail the NCT?
It fails the MOT up here but only just brought in this year. Not sure about NCT. I would guess it would be a fail. What type of car?
Dust/boot caps on the ball joints in front of car are split and failed the MOT, seems a bit tough but mechanic was saying I'd need to change my ball joint/arm thingy!! Caps couldn't be too expensive but the other stuff would cost a packet!!
Quote from: Milltown Row2 on December 08, 2012, 08:53:53 PM
Dust/boot caps on the ball joints in front of car are split and failed the MOT, seems a bit tough but mechanic was saying I'd need to change my ball joint/arm thingy!! Caps couldn't be too expensive but the other stuff would cost a packet!!
On the ball joint they are manufactured on to the component. Can not be replaced on their own. Ball joints are not expensive. What type of car?
Quote from: GJL on December 08, 2012, 09:06:08 PM
Quote from: Milltown Row2 on December 08, 2012, 08:53:53 PM
Dust/boot caps on the ball joints in front of car are split and failed the MOT, seems a bit tough but mechanic was saying I'd need to change my ball joint/arm thingy!! Caps couldn't be too expensive but the other stuff would cost a packet!!
On the ball joint they are manufactured on to the component. Can not be replaced on their own. Ball joints are not expensive. What type of car?
Sante Fe, 8 year old, would it be hard to get off and replace or will I need to leave it in?
Quote from: Hardy on December 08, 2012, 10:49:13 AM
Will an airbag warning light fail the NCT?
It should fail, but it all depends on the tester. €50 in the ashtray would soon cure it. Though you should really get it sorted, you never know when you'll need them.
Quote from: GJL on December 08, 2012, 08:47:44 PM
Quote from: Hardy on December 08, 2012, 10:49:13 AM
Will an airbag warning light fail the NCT?
It fails the MOT up here but only just brought in this year. Not sure about NCT. I would guess it would be a fail. What type of car?
Quote from: All of a Sludden on December 09, 2012, 12:01:11 AM
Quote from: Hardy on December 08, 2012, 10:49:13 AM
Will an airbag warning light fail the NCT?
It should fail, but it all depends on the tester. €50 in the ashtray would soon cure it. Though you should really get it sorted, you never know when you'll need them.
Thanks, folks.
I suppose that's urban legend about money in the ashtray? Anybody got personal testimony?
Quote from: Hardy on December 09, 2012, 11:03:21 AM
I suppose that's urban legend about money in the ashtray? Anybody got personal testimony?
It definitely happens, a friend of mine was passing lorries without even seeing them, then one of them was in an accident. He couldn't be told, all he could see was the money.
Also RTE did an investigation and things seemed to tighten up for a while http://www.rte.ie/news/2011/0518/taxi.html
Quote from: GJL on December 08, 2012, 08:45:57 PM
Quote from: trueblue1234 on December 07, 2012, 03:33:04 PM
Hi,
Have a 2007 mondeo and the passenger side indicators lights both front and back have stopped. Thought it might be the fuse but the side light still works and my friend reckons it wouldn't if the fuse had gone, so he thinks it's something else. The bulbs are ok.
Any ideas?
Side lights and indicators are on separate fuses. Are they working if you put on the hazard lights?
No they're not working at all, even with the hazards on. When I say the side lights are working I mean the side indicator (The one on the front quarter panel). So the front and rear indicators on the passenger side aren't working but the one on the side is. Would this be the fuse or is it a wiring problem?
Quote from: trueblue1234 on December 10, 2012, 03:28:41 PM
Quote from: GJL on December 08, 2012, 08:45:57 PM
Quote from: trueblue1234 on December 07, 2012, 03:33:04 PM
Hi,
Have a 2007 mondeo and the passenger side indicators lights both front and back have stopped. Thought it might be the fuse but the side light still works and my friend reckons it wouldn't if the fuse had gone, so he thinks it's something else. The bulbs are ok.
Any ideas?
Side lights and indicators are on separate fuses. Are they working if you put on the hazard lights?
No they're not working at all, even with the hazards on. When I say the side lights are working I mean the side indicator (The one on the front quarter panel). So the front and rear indicators on the passenger side aren't working but the one on the side is. Would this be the fuse or is it a wiring problem?
Is it a MK3 or 4 Mondeo? If you take a look at your fuse layout diagram you will be able to tell if there are separate fuses for front indicator and side ones. Check these and replace them to see if there is any difference, think they are fuses F63 and F64.
It's a 4 Mondeo. I'll take a look at that this evening and egt back to you. Thanks!!
Car failed the MOT last week on a few minor issues. Took the wee piece of paper back to my mechanic who said it shouldnt take too much to sort it out. He had a look and couldnt find anything wrong with it!!!! He didnt touch it..put it through the retest and it sailed through......b*st*rds >:( >:( >:(
Quote from: 5 Sams on December 18, 2012, 10:12:22 AM
Car failed the MOT last week on a few minor issues. Took the wee piece of paper back to my mechanic who said it shouldnt take too much to sort it out. He had a look and couldnt find anything wrong with it!!!! He didnt touch it..put it through the retest and it sailed through......b*st*rds >:( >:( >:(
Aye did the same thing last week, had no bother really took it to different centre!!
Can automatic cars go as fast downhill as a gear stick one?
Quote from: Olly on December 18, 2012, 11:02:03 AM
Can automatic cars go as fast downhill as a gear stick one?
How steep is the hill?
Quote from: 5 Sams on December 18, 2012, 10:12:22 AM
Car failed the MOT last week on a few minor issues. Took the wee piece of paper back to my mechanic who said it shouldnt take too much to sort it out. He had a look and couldnt find anything wrong with it!!!! He didnt touch it..put it through the retest and it sailed through......b*st*rds >:( >:( >:(
Have done this before. The cnut in Armagh failed me for a sticking door handle a few years ago which I said I didn't think was sticking. No arguing with them so I booked it into Craigavon without touching it and passed no bother.
Mine was Armagh too Tony. I have a feeling I shouldnt have left the Irish News on the back seat of the car!!!
Quote from: LeoMc on December 18, 2012, 11:26:55 AM
Quote from: Olly on December 18, 2012, 11:02:03 AM
Can automatic cars go as fast downhill as a gear stick one?
How steep is the hill?
It's an acute angle. About 33 degrees.
Quote from: Olly on December 18, 2012, 01:55:25 PM
Quote from: LeoMc on December 18, 2012, 11:26:55 AM
Quote from: Olly on December 18, 2012, 11:02:03 AM
Can automatic cars go as fast downhill as a gear stick one?
How steep is the hill?
It's an acute angle. About 33 degrees.
Sorry can't answer, the rules are different for the Scottish Rite ;) ;)
Hi. mot on saturday and passenger side shock spring had to be replaced. Was charged £35 for the spring and £60 for labour (plus vat). I'm thinking £20 an hour. Is this a 3 hour job?
Quote from: Link on January 08, 2013, 06:49:32 PM
Hi. mot on saturday and passenger side shock spring had to be replaced. Was charged £35 for the spring and £60 for labour (plus vat). I'm thinking £20 an hour. Is this a 3 hour job?
I'd say 30/hr and 2 hours wouldnt be outrageous
Right new Problem. The bonnet cable has snapped on my mondeo, So can't get the bonnet open. Have been told that the only way is to break the grill which will mean a new grill which will cost about £80-90.
Is the garage right? I thought there would have been a way to get in through the undercarriage?
any ideas?
Quote from: trueblue1234 on January 10, 2013, 04:40:42 PM
Right new Problem. The bonnet cable has snapped on my mondeo, So can't get the bonnet open. Have been told that the only way is to break the grill which will mean a new grill which will cost about £80-90.
Is the garage right? I thought there would have been a way to get in through the undercarriage?
any ideas?
Did you get your lights sorted?
Quote from: trueblue1234 on January 10, 2013, 04:40:42 PM
Right new Problem. The bonnet cable has snapped on my mondeo, So can't get the bonnet open. Have been told that the only way is to break the grill which will mean a new grill which will cost about £80-90.
Is the garage right? I thought there would have been a way to get in through the undercarriage?
any ideas?
http://www.talkford.com/topic/188244-snapped-bonnet-cable/
Cheers Ulick. Not sure if I could do what's required there myself. I would have thought the garage would have been able to tho!! But they're saying they spoke to Lindsay Ford who advised going through the grill.
Eeekkk, just hit another issue. Forgot to change address on V5 for my car so the reminder for the MOT went to different address. Now just realised that was up on the 20th Jan. So I'm going to book it in ASAP for test. But will there be any issue with me driving the car to the test? Going to keep it of the road until the test as I know it's illegal. But was going to risk driving to the test centre rather than taking it in on a trailer? are they likely to say anything to me if I drive it in?
Is it not just the PSNI or having an accident (invalid insurance) that you'd have to worry about? The garage wouldn't care how you got there I would imagine.
Yeah I was thinking that. But then I wasn't sure if the MOT centre would cause any hassles or maybe they were under obligation to report it if the vehicle was driven on the road without valid MOT? If there was no chance of hassle from them I would just drive it in.
Quote from: trueblue1234 on January 25, 2013, 02:56:22 PM
Yeah I was thinking that. But then I wasn't sure if the MOT centre would cause any hassles or maybe they were under obligation to report it if the vehicle was driven on the road without valid MOT? If there was no chance of hassle from them I would just drive it in.
2 years ago my car failed in Enniskillen a week before the MOT was up (about 2 weeks before Christmas). I had to replace a cable and booked it in again for the following Saturday (the day the MOT was up). I drove to Enniskillen for the test and when I got there they had a notice on the gates that they were closed due to the snow. I was back up in Belfast for work on Monday morning and managed to book into Mallusk that morning for the retest and got refunded for the original one in Enniskillen - no questions asked in Mallusk even though the MOT expired two days earlier.
I'm having a problem with a Ford Focus (04) at the minute. The engine management light has is on constantly. I read online that you can get an error code by starting the engine whilst holding in the button that resets the mileage trip counter. When I do that the error code I get is 9A9E. Has anyone any idea what this could be?
Quote from: trueblue1234 on January 25, 2013, 02:56:22 PM
Yeah I was thinking that. But then I wasn't sure if the MOT centre would cause any hassles or maybe they were under obligation to report it if the vehicle was driven on the road without valid MOT? If there was no chance of hassle from them I would just drive it in.
2 years ago my car failed in Enniskillen a week before the MOT was up (about 2 weeks before Christmas). I had to replace a cable and booked it in again for the following Saturday (the day the MOT was up). I drove to Enniskillen for the test and when I got there they had a notice on the gates that they were closed due to the snow. I was back up in Belfast for work on Monday morning and managed to book into Mallusk that morning for the retest and got refunded for the original one in Enniskillen - no questions asked in Mallusk even though the MOT expired two days earlier.
I'm having a problem with a Ford Focus (04) at the minute. The engine management light is on constantly. I read online that you can get an error code by starting the engine whilst holding in the button that resets the mileage trip counter. When I do that the error code I get is 9A9E. Has anyone any idea what this could be?
google is ur friend: http://www.fixya.com/cars/t10235441-engine_warning_light_held_odometer_got
the wife drives a citroen xsara picasso and it has started to make a grinding crunching noise when turning. Sounds like its coming from the passenger side any ideas as to what this could be? Bit of googling points to a wheel bearing problem
Quote from: BenDover on February 15, 2013, 10:23:06 AM
the wife drives a citroen xsara picasso and it has started to make a grinding crunching noise when turning. Sounds like its coming from the passenger side any ideas as to what this could be? Bit of googling points to a wheel bearing problem
Thanks for the link about the engine management light.
I had a problem that sounds similar - I had to have a drop link replaced.
Quote from: BenDover on February 15, 2013, 10:23:06 AM
the wife drives a citroen xsara picasso and it has started to make a grinding crunching noise when turning. Sounds like its coming from the passenger side any ideas as to what this could be? Bit of googling points to a wheel bearing problem
My car was clunking a bit when turning at low speed i.e. into or out of parking bay. Was track rod end. Didnt cost much to get fixed at local garage.
Quote from: BenDover on February 15, 2013, 10:23:06 AM
the wife drives a citroen xsara picasso and it has started to make a grinding crunching noise when turning. Sounds like its coming from the passenger side any ideas as to what this could be? Bit of googling points to a wheel bearing problem
Could be the CV joint as well.
(http://www.blauparts.com/assets/audi_vw_cv_joint_live.jpg)
I've had CV joint problem before but it was more of a knocking sound
I know this may seem a really petty one but the Medium wave signal on my car radio has dropped dramatically to the point where it is unuseable, FM still fine but I am starting to miss 5 Live for the sport when I am out and about. Is this a signal problem due to the digital signal etc or a problem with the radio and any solutions?
Quote from: BenDover on February 15, 2013, 10:23:06 AM
the wife drives a citroen xsara picasso and it has started to make a grinding crunching noise when turning. Sounds like its coming from the passenger side any ideas as to what this could be? Bit of googling points to a wheel bearing problem
sounds more like a suspension or steering ball joint worn, if its been noisy for a while I wouldnt hang about getting it looked at
Quote from: NAG1 on February 15, 2013, 11:47:28 AM
I know this may seem a really petty one but the Medium wave signal on my car radio has dropped dramatically to the point where it is unuseable, FM still fine but I am starting to miss 5 Live for the sport when I am out and about. Is this a signal problem due to the digital signal etc or a problem with the radio and any solutions?
I listen to MW all the time and I've noticed no change. Must be your wireless.
Quote from: Last Man on February 15, 2013, 08:35:08 PM
Quote from: BenDover on February 15, 2013, 10:23:06 AM
the wife drives a citroen xsara picasso and it has started to make a grinding crunching noise when turning. Sounds like its coming from the passenger side any ideas as to what this could be? Bit of googling points to a wheel bearing problem
sounds more like a suspension or steering ball joint worn, if its been noisy for a while I wouldnt hang about getting it looked at
Like has been said this could be any one of a number of things, some of which could be dangerous. From your discription it is impossible to say exactly what is wrong so get it checked out by a professional ASAP.
Quote from: GJL on February 18, 2013, 09:32:41 AM
Quote from: Last Man on February 15, 2013, 08:35:08 PM
Quote from: BenDover on February 15, 2013, 10:23:06 AM
the wife drives a citroen xsara picasso and it has started to make a grinding crunching noise when turning. Sounds like its coming from the passenger side any ideas as to what this could be? Bit of googling points to a wheel bearing problem
sounds more like a suspension or steering ball joint worn, if its been noisy for a while I wouldnt hang about getting it looked at
Like has been said this could be any one of a number of things, some of which could be dangerous. From your discription it is impossible to say exactly what is wrong so get it checked out by a professional ASAP.
Exactly, more than likely something that wont cost much to fix. Could be a track rod end, CV boot, drive shaft or any number of other causes.
DOE for van in the morning, told testing garage had one of spot lights cracked and he told me they would fail me so have to replace. New lamp unit required, €78. OK. Total for job €185. An hour's work in a VW main dealer garage over €100/hr !!!!!
Getting done in garage nearby for €20. Is this normal rates for a main dealer ? Couldn't believe it.
Quote from: fearsiuil on February 19, 2013, 01:42:49 AM
DOE for van in the morning, told testing garage had one of spot lights cracked and he told me they would fail me so have to replace. New lamp unit required, €78. OK. Total for job €185. An hour's work in a VW main dealer garage over €100/hr !!!!!
Getting done in garage nearby for €20. Is this normal rates for a main dealer ? Couldn't believe it.
I wouldn't be surprised by any prices a dealer quotes you, I have got parts before for £40 that a delaer was quoting £200 for. Disgrace how they operate.
Quote from: nrico2006 on February 19, 2013, 08:48:31 AM
Quote from: fearsiuil on February 19, 2013, 01:42:49 AM
DOE for van in the morning, told testing garage had one of spot lights cracked and he told me they would fail me so have to replace. New lamp unit required, €78. OK. Total for job €185. An hour's work in a VW main dealer garage over €100/hr !!!!!
Getting done in garage nearby for €20. Is this normal rates for a main dealer ? Couldn't believe it.
I wouldn't be surprised by any prices a dealer quotes you, I have got parts before for £40 that a delaer was quoting £200 for. Disgrace how they operate.
Went to VW dealer and collected fog lamp, €85, straight down to local mechanic and he had small panel off, cracked lamp taken out and new one plugged in etc. all within 3 minutes. Unreal ! Guy in VW dealership service department was quoting me €107 for one hour of labour.
Mechanic told me I should of got a "spurious" part for around €40 instead of the €85 lamp with the VW stamp.
Quote from: fearsiuil on February 19, 2013, 12:28:34 PM
Quote from: nrico2006 on February 19, 2013, 08:48:31 AM
Quote from: fearsiuil on February 19, 2013, 01:42:49 AM
DOE for van in the morning, told testing garage had one of spot lights cracked and he told me they would fail me so have to replace. New lamp unit required, €78. OK. Total for job €185. An hour's work in a VW main dealer garage over €100/hr !!!!!
Getting done in garage nearby for €20. Is this normal rates for a main dealer ? Couldn't believe it.
I wouldn't be surprised by any prices a dealer quotes you, I have got parts before for £40 that a delaer was quoting £200 for. Disgrace how they operate.
Went to VW dealer and collected fog lamp, €85, straight down to local mechanic and he had small panel off, cracked lamp taken out and new one plugged in etc. all within 3 minutes. Unreal ! Guy in VW dealership service department was quoting me €107 for one hour of labour.
Mechanic told me I should of got a "spurious" part for around €40 instead of the €85 lamp with the VW stamp.
Had a Golf once that got its wing mirror smached...hoor drove on. Got a replacment in Traynors in the Moy for £30...brand new in the box spurious part. VW were quoting £90 plus labour. Only difference was the VW log on it! The brother stuck it on in 20 minutes.
Spurious parts are dirt, especially the ones that Traynors sell, they are cheap for a reason. You'd be better off with second hand, genuine parts.
5sams, I assume you were using the VW garage in Newry. They have lost the VW franchise and will be closing in June.
Quote from: All of a Sludden on February 19, 2013, 12:42:52 PM
Spurious parts are dirt, especially the ones that Traynors sell, they are cheap for a reason. You'd be better off with second hand, genuine parts.5sams, I assume you were using the VW garage in Newry. They have lost the VW franchise and will be closing in June.
+1
Genuine parts are the way to go. I find spurious parts never fit perfect and are poor quality. I also find Ebay great value for second hand genuine parts like headlights, wing mirrors etc and they are delivered direct to your door.
Dealer prices are mental.. We charge £20 per hour ;) ;D
Quote from: 5 Sams on February 19, 2013, 12:33:44 PM
Had a Golf once that got its wing mirror smached...hoor drove on. Got a replacment in Traynors in the Moy for £30...brand new in the box spurious part. VW were quoting £90 plus labour. Only difference was the VW log on it! The brother stuck it on in 20 minutes.
[/quote]
I have a wing mirror on my VW (Eos) that has corroding casing around it - apparently something to do with the paint components. There's nothing wrong with the mirror but VW say the only way to fix it is to replace the mirror which is going to be very expensive - because it isn't an integral part of the bodywork of the car, it isn't covered by a corrosion warranty in VW's general terms.
Do you reckon that is something that could be fixed by a bodywork person? I really don't want to stub up what is looking like £300 per mirror when it is just the paint on the casing.
Quote from: Rois on February 19, 2013, 12:46:52 PM
Do you reckon that is something that could be fixed by a bodywork person? I really don't want to stub up what is looking like £300 per mirror when it is just the paint on the casing.
Sounds like something your local body shop could repair for £50
Quote from: Rois on February 19, 2013, 12:46:52 PM
Quote from: 5 Sams on February 19, 2013, 12:33:44 PM
Had a Golf once that got its wing mirror smached...hoor drove on. Got a replacment in Traynors in the Moy for £30...brand new in the box spurious part. VW were quoting £90 plus labour. Only difference was the VW log on it! The brother stuck it on in 20 minutes.
I have a wing mirror on my VW (Eos) that has corroding casing around it - apparently something to do with the paint components. There's nothing wrong with the mirror but VW say the only way to fix it is to replace the mirror which is going to be very expensive - because it isn't an integral part of the bodywork of the car, it isn't covered by a corrosion warranty in VW's general terms.
Do you reckon that is something that could be fixed by a bodywork person?
I really don't want to stub up what is looking like £300 per mirror when it is just the paint on the casing. [/quote]Run a mile. Paying dealership prices is madness in my opinion unless you want to keep dealer stamps in the service book during warranty. I personally don't believe you will ever recoup the cumulative price difference, between dealer and local mechanic bills, in the resale value of the car. I will stand corrected though.
Key fob no longer works, the wee light on it flashes so is it something to do with the receiver in the car itself? Also, is this something that can be rectified without going to a VW dealer?
Quote from: qubdub on February 19, 2013, 01:36:20 PM
Key fob no longer works, the wee light on it flashes so is it something to do with the receiver in the car itself? Also, is this something that can be rectified without going to a VW dealer?
The receiver may just need to be reset. Happens occasionally to be on a Seat cordoba. Can't remember how to do it but I got the method of thr internet. GLJ can you remember?
Quote from: qubdub on February 19, 2013, 01:36:20 PM
Key fob no longer works, the wee light on it flashes so is it something to do with the receiver in the car itself? Also, is this something that can be rectified without going to a VW dealer?
It could either be the battery or simply a case of a re-sync job between your key fob and your car.
Thanks, tried the re-sync, didn't work, but found that the spare key (which was also dud) is now working again so all good for now.
For Sale.
VW Bora 1.9 TDI SE. 2002 150000 miles. Great condition and 100% mechanically. MOT until Oct.
£2000.
Who wants a cheap, reliable , economical Diesel?
(http://sphotos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/308066_333162390122150_1440579008_n.jpg)
Went to close the passenger door and the latch/hinge (not sure what it's called) buckled and left me unable to close door, tried looking for parts for it but don't know what I'm looking for (proper name)
So it's the bar that connects the door and panel, Is it easy enough to fit? the two bolts at the panel seem fine to take off but I'd imagine I'll have to take off the door panel to get at it. The bar has just rusted away ffs
Quote from: Milltown Row2 on March 10, 2013, 05:10:15 PM
Went to close the passenger door and the latch/hinge (not sure what it's called) buckled and left me unable to close door, tried looking for parts for it but don't know what I'm looking for (proper name)
So it's the bar that connects the door and panel, Is it easy enough to fit? the two bolts at the panel seem fine to take off but I'd imagine I'll have to take off the door panel to get at it. The bar has just rusted away ffs
Door brakes or stays
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vehicle_door
Have an 04 1.7 cdti Meriva that won't start when the engine is hot. Starts no problem when cold but after a 20 minute or so drive it won't start. Tries to go but cuts out after a few seconds.
Had the opposite problem last year when it wouldn't start when cold! £250 and a new suction control valve on the fuel pump sorted it. Ready to throw it into Traynors for scrap!
Any ideas? Starter motor frigged? Also had this problem with a wee diesel punto which turned out to be a crankshaft sensor, symptoms are very similar.
Quote from: omagh_gael on March 20, 2013, 04:30:47 PM
Have an 04 1.7 cdti Meriva that won't start when the engine is hot. Starts no problem when cold but after a 20 minute or so drive it won't start. Tries to go but cuts out after a few seconds.
Had the opposite problem last year when it wouldn't start when cold! £250 and a new suction control valve on the fuel pump sorted it. Ready to throw it into Traynors for scrap!
Any ideas? Starter motor frigged? Also had this problem with a wee diesel punto which turned out to be a crankshaft sensor, symptoms are very similar.
Have replaced a few EGR valves on vauxhalls recently for starting problems. If you can get it to ballygawley I will plug it in and see what is going on. If I don't fix it I won't charge you ;)
Bought a cd player for the wifes motor from ebay and connected it up last night although the radio and cd works there is a constant beeping coming from it. I've googled around and seems like i need the code, can ye find these online or do I have to go to a citroen dealer?
Quote from: BenDover on March 21, 2013, 09:11:24 AM
Bought a cd player for the wifes motor from ebay and connected it up last night although the radio and cd works there is a constant beeping coming from it. I've googled around and seems like i need the code, can ye find these online or do I have to go to a citroen dealer?
There is a place outside Newtownhamilton, Mobile Hi Fi systems or something like that, will sort you out with the code for about a tenner.
Car failed its MOT due to a warning light being on. I thought it might scrape through as I had understood that warning lights failures were only brought into law from Monday or Tuesday, but obv not the case in NI.
Anyway, I'm just after taking it out to my dealer's service centre - they have an offer of a mini service for £139 and give a list of items that it includes, among that list is a diagnostic test and report.
I told them about the warning ligh (EPS? The traction control one with the car with the tracks behind it) and they were going to charge me another £80 for diagnosing that problem. Now to an uneducated car person like me, the diagnostic test included in the mini service should do the same job as what the £80 would do, so I made a bit of a fuss about paying for the same thing twice, and they relented. But I was a bit p1ssed off that they were trying to charge me twice for it.
Am I right that a "diagnostic test and report" should point out exactly the same thing as the "hooking up to computer" description they tried explaining to me?
Quote from: Harold Disgracey on March 21, 2013, 09:15:26 AM
Quote from: BenDover on March 21, 2013, 09:11:24 AM
Bought a cd player for the wifes motor from ebay and connected it up last night although the radio and cd works there is a constant beeping coming from it. I've googled around and seems like i need the code, can ye find these online or do I have to go to a citroen dealer?
There is a place outside Newtownhamilton, Mobile Hi Fi systems or something like that, will sort you out with the code for about a tenner.
Sean Murphy 02830 878300. He is closer to Cullyhanna than Newtown.
Quote from: Rois on March 21, 2013, 11:17:54 AM
Car failed its MOT due to a warning light being on. I thought it might scrape through as I had understood that warning lights failures were only brought into law from Monday or Tuesday, but obv not the case in NI.
Anyway, I'm just after taking it out to my dealer's service centre - they have an offer of a mini service for £139 and give a list of items that it includes, among that list is a diagnostic test and report.
I told them about the warning ligh (EPS? The traction control one with the car with the tracks behind it) and they were going to charge me another £80 for diagnosing that problem. Now to an uneducated car person like me, the diagnostic test included in the mini service should do the same job as what the £80 would do, so I made a bit of a fuss about paying for the same thing twice, and they relented. But I was a bit p1ssed off that they were trying to charge me twice for it.
Am I right that a "diagnostic test and report" should point out exactly the same thing as the "hooking up to computer" description they tried explaining to me?
They are trying to charge you twice for the same thing.
If your car is old enough to need an MOT then it probably doesn't need to be taken to a main dealer for the likes of a service or a diagnostic. You will get the work done much cheaper and in most cases by a better mechanic at a local specialist.
Thanks for the audio advice there.
Re: hooking the car up for diagnostics check, I had this done before by a local garage and the cost then was £20, think all dealers stick the hand in an extra bit for this service. Also sounds like they are trying to charge you twice for the same reading.
Thanks for the reassurance - I had it done on another car previously and I'm sure I understood it was the same thing.
I know going through the dealer is the most expensive way about it, but I've a reason for loyalty and got a great deal from the owner of the company when I first bought (Donnelly's - great Tyrone supporter!). Plus I have a retractable roof and there are few people who would touch it outside main dealerships that I'm aware of.
Quote from: All of a Sludden on March 21, 2013, 11:28:12 AM
Quote from: Harold Disgracey on March 21, 2013, 09:15:26 AM
Quote from: BenDover on March 21, 2013, 09:11:24 AM
Bought a cd player for the wifes motor from ebay and connected it up last night although the radio and cd works there is a constant beeping coming from it. I've googled around and seems like i need the code, can ye find these online or do I have to go to a citroen dealer?
There is a place outside Newtownhamilton, Mobile Hi Fi systems or something like that, will sort you out with the code for about a tenner.
Sean Murphy 02830 878300. He is closer to Cullyhanna than Newtown.
The very boy, you're probably right about him being closer to Cullyhanna, out Slatequarry Road IIRC.
Quote from: Harold Disgracey on March 21, 2013, 12:00:03 PM
Quote from: All of a Sludden on March 21, 2013, 11:28:12 AM
Quote from: Harold Disgracey on March 21, 2013, 09:15:26 AM
Quote from: BenDover on March 21, 2013, 09:11:24 AM
Bought a cd player for the wifes motor from ebay and connected it up last night although the radio and cd works there is a constant beeping coming from it. I've googled around and seems like i need the code, can ye find these online or do I have to go to a citroen dealer?
There is a place outside Newtownhamilton, Mobile Hi Fi systems or something like that, will sort you out with the code for about a tenner.
Sean Murphy 02830 878300. He is closer to Cullyhanna than Newtown.
The very boy, you're probably right about him being closer to Cullyhanna, out Slatequarry Road IIRC.
Is there a slate quarry on that road by any chance?
Your man lives a couple of hundred yards beyond the quarry heading towards Cullyhanna coming from Newtownhamilton.
Think I need a new clutch in my Focus.
Got a guy to service it a while back and he said it would eventually need it changed.
It's really slow to accelerate atm, and it needs MOT'd by end of April, so may as well get it sorted.
Here's my question; Do I have to change the flywheel as well? What is it/what does it do?
I've been googling the price for mk2 focus clutches and the difference in prices is unreal!
Just rang Caldwells in Omagh, they gave me the following prices; Clutch £104+VAT, FLYWHEEL £310+Vat, Cylinder £60+ VAT
Once I add labor on its going to be a fortune!
Its for a 2006 FOCUS DIESEL HATCHBACK 1.8 TDCi LX
Could any of you guys in the know advise? Webuyanycar.com are offering £1850...... I'm tempted
Quote from: WeeDonns on March 25, 2013, 10:24:15 AM
Here's my question; Do I have to change the flywheel as well? What is it/what does it do?
The flywheel 'smooths out' the drive rotations WD (and consequently the drive to your wheels), otherwise it would be very jittery.
Seems like you do need one though:
http://uk.answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20101023064114AAZeUEG
The flywheel is what transfers the rotational motion from the engine to the clutch. Due to increased torque levels the last 10 years or so, 'dual mass' or 'floating flywheels have been introduced to obsorb shock in the power transfer. The old solid flywheels would last the lifetime of most cars but these new ones can go anytime after about 80000 miles. If you call down to Ballygawley WD I will take a look, give you my opinion and a price. You can then decide yourself what to do.
Garrett.
Recently we have come across a few problems with blocked DFSs (Diesel Particulate Filters) The filter is part of the exhaust on a diesel car that filters out the black soot. It is very expensive to replace (over £1000 in most cars). When blocked a light will come on and the car may go way down in power. The dealers are saying the filter needs replaced but we have no come up with a successful way of flushing the filters. There are quite a few different flushes on the market, most of which don't work but we have found one that works every time saving hundreds of pounds. Give me a shout if you come across this problem.
Where seems to be the best place in the Tyrone area for new or part worn tyres??
Quote from: Family guy on April 20, 2013, 12:17:03 PM
Where seems to be the best place in the Tyrone area for new or part worn tyres??
What size do you need?
Quote from: GJL on April 20, 2013, 03:26:33 PM
Quote from: Family guy on April 20, 2013, 12:17:03 PM
Where seems to be the best place in the Tyrone area for new or part worn tyres??
What size do you need?
I could be doing with knowing this as well - mine are just 15"
Also how would i go about sorting out my remote central locking for my VW Golf Mk5? I imagine if i go to a VW dealer it will cost me a fortune?
We are based in Ballygawley. We Stock most tyre sizes and should be able to sort the locking as well.
Anyone know of a website that does free car valuations? Thinking of buying a new second-hand car and I'm either onto a chicken dinner or there is some sort of catch that I'm missing...
Quote from: qubdub on May 02, 2013, 09:14:50 PM
Anyone know of a website that does free car valuations? Thinking of buying a new second-hand car and I'm either onto a chicken dinner or there is some sort of catch that I'm missing...
Get a HPI check done on it. Checks for insurance claims and/or finance owed. Usually if it seems to good to be true.....it is!
Quote from: qubdub on May 02, 2013, 09:14:50 PM
Anyone know of a website that does free car valuations? Thinking of buying a new second-hand car and I'm either onto a chicken dinner or there is some sort of catch that I'm missing...
Look at Done Deal (other websites available). There are search criteria for the price you are wishing to pay and will sort the available cars at that price.
Quote from: Denn Forever on May 03, 2013, 12:05:25 PM
Quote from: qubdub on May 02, 2013, 09:14:50 PM
Anyone know of a website that does free car valuations? Thinking of buying a new second-hand car and I'm either onto a chicken dinner or there is some sort of catch that I'm missing...
Look at Done Deal (other websites available). There are search criteria for the price you are wishing to pay and will sort the available cars at that price.
Quote from: GJL on May 02, 2013, 11:57:17 PM
Quote from: qubdub on May 02, 2013, 09:14:50 PM
Anyone know of a website that does free car valuations? Thinking of buying a new second-hand car and I'm either onto a chicken dinner or there is some sort of catch that I'm missing...
Get a HPI check done on it. Checks for insurance claims and/or finance owed. Usually if it seems to good to be true.....it is!
Cheers guys. I haven't physically looked at the car
yet, the dealer has conveniently blanked the reg no. on the autotrader pics and on his website so can't do HPI check online!
If you are speaking to the dealer, ask him for the reg. If he won't give it (can't see why he wouldn't) be wary.
Look in Done Deal etc. for a car tghat you are taling about and see what prices are like.
Quote from: Denn Forever on May 03, 2013, 12:29:07 PM
If you are speaking to the dealer, ask him for the reg. If he won't give it (can't see why he wouldn't) be wary.
Look in Done Deal etc. for a car tghat you are taling about and see what prices are like.
Have checked done deal, hard to see the exact model I'm after with a similar low mileage. Going to visit the dealer on Monday all going well.
Think the clutch is gone on my car, Santa Fe, any ideas of the cost?
Is there a reason why 07 Mazda RX8's are so cheap. On Autotrader for under 3K. for a car that produces 200BHP that sounds like a bargain.
Is it something to do with the ommisions? If i bought one and VRT'd it what am i likely to pay on road tax given its a 1.3l engine.
Quote from: snoopdog on May 24, 2013, 04:35:03 PM
Is there a reason why 07 Mazda RX8's are so cheap. On Autotrader for under 3K. for a car that produces 200BHP that sounds like a bargain.
Is it something to do with the ommisions? If i bought one and VRT'd it what am i likely to pay on road tax given its a 1.3l engine.
I'd be worried about any omission in a car advert.
Quote from: Tony Baloney on May 24, 2013, 04:50:34 PM
Quote from: snoopdog on May 24, 2013, 04:35:03 PM
Is there a reason why 07 Mazda RX8's are so cheap. On Autotrader for under 3K. for a car that produces 200BHP that sounds like a bargain.
Is it something to do with the ommisions? If i bought one and VRT'd it what am i likely to pay on road tax given its a 1.3l engine.
I'd be worried about any omission in a car advert.
D'oh. Meant C02 emissions
Iv looked at RX8s myself. Very very cheap and they look great. But, a few mechanics have told me to stay well clear. They have some weird rotary engine that is a bit "out there." Maybe someone who knows more about engines can tell us more...
Yeah the RX8s have a rotary engine and can be more expensive to service. But there are some cracking deals on them second hand. The depreciation on them is mad. And for what is a tidy little sports car they are absolute steals. Lovely looking car as well for that money.
Rotary engines use a lot of oil and so you need to very vigilent so that it doesn't run low. I would assume you would be best to have it serviced by a Mazda garage.
RX8 is a rotary 1.3 engine but is taxed at a higher rate due to the high HP.
It used to be taxed as a 1.8 but I am not sure with the new bands.
Pretty sure i need a new fly wheel for the golf, Its a 1.9 2006 model was wondering does anybody know the price of one of these things? and can you put a second hand one on? Heading to the states for a few months so dont want to spend a fortune on it before i leave.
Quote from: tyrone exile on May 27, 2013, 09:51:37 PM
Pretty sure i need a new fly wheel for the golf, Its a 1.9 2006 model was wondering does anybody know the price of one of these things? and can you put a second hand one on? Heading to the states for a few months so dont want to spend a fortune on it before i leave.
Ring Quigg Bros in Rasharkin, They sell new and 2nd hand parts and will advise if its worth trying.
028 2957 1257
Has anyone ever replaced brake pads/rear brake discs themselves?
Quote from: laoislad on July 09, 2013, 05:56:02 PM
Has anyone ever replaced brake pads/rear brake discs themselves?
Yes, very straight forward even for a casual "mechanic" like myself.
If you can get the calipers wound back its an easy enough job, what type of car is it, some of the newer cars may need a diagnostic computer to do the calipers. But its only a €50 job for your local mechanic if you don't think you aren't up to it.
Quote from: laoislad on July 09, 2013, 05:56:02 PM
Has anyone ever replaced brake pads/rear brake discs themselves?
I have done a few. ;)
To be honest the fronts are usually easier as most back brakes need a special tool to rewind the brake piston. Also bear in mind some cars handbrake works off shoes inside the hub of the disc which can complicate matters for a DIY man. Take no chances with it.
Sure what would you know ;)
Wondering of all the euro 5 diesel engines..which ones are capable of high mileage without major headaches? Are there any?
Quote from: snoopdog on May 24, 2013, 04:35:03 PM
Is there a reason why 07 Mazda RX8's are so cheap. On Autotrader for under 3K. for a car that produces 200BHP that sounds like a bargain.
Is it something to do with the ommisions? If i bought one and VRT'd it what am i likely to pay on road tax given its a 1.3l engine.
It has a Wankel engine.
Have been quoted £350 to fix the electric window in my Megane. Apparently it is a known fault but my car is too old to qualify for a subsidised replacement by Renault. Seems a bit much as that is near enough the value of the car. Anybody any experience of this problem or of getting it fixed?
Have you tried any breakers to see if they have a full matching door that a mechanic could change over?
Quote from: LeoMc on July 09, 2013, 10:28:07 PM
Have been quoted £350 to fix the electric window in my Megane. Apparently it is a known fault but my car is too old to qualify for a subsidised replacement by Renault. Seems a bit much as that is near enough the value of the car. Anybody any experience of this problem or of getting it fixed?
Is the window currently closed? If so dont waste the money on changing it. Pain in the arse at toll booths or checkpoints though ;D
Quote from: snoopdog on July 11, 2013, 11:31:50 AM
Quote from: LeoMc on July 09, 2013, 10:28:07 PM
Have been quoted £350 to fix the electric window in my Megane. Apparently it is a known fault but my car is too old to qualify for a subsidised replacement by Renault. Seems a bit much as that is near enough the value of the car. Anybody any experience of this problem or of getting it fixed?
Is the window currently closed? If so dont waste the money on changing it. Pain in the arse at toll booths or checkpoints though ;D
Amen to that brother! The cops get a bit jittery when you grab for the door handle instead of rolling down the window.
Your car won't pass an NCT/MOT if the window isn't working properly. Try ebay or a breakers yard for the part.
Quote from: All of a Sludden on July 11, 2013, 01:00:11 PM
Your car won't pass an NCT/MOT if the window isn't working properly. Try ebay or a breakers yard for the part.
Just went through MOT today with it not working. It is currently in the up position and heat is killing me. Toll booths are a hoor too.
Quote from: All of a Sludden on July 11, 2013, 01:00:11 PM
Your car won't pass an NCT/MOT if the window isn't working properly. Try ebay or a breakers yard for the part.
The condition of a window is a requirement but not it's operation. The car is safe to be driven with a sound window that is up. It creates no safety risk or danger to other road users and so it is not required. A driver's inconvenience is not a matter for government just fro the driver themselve
Quote from: PAULD123 on July 12, 2013, 10:20:02 AM
Quote from: All of a Sludden on July 11, 2013, 01:00:11 PM
Your car won't pass an NCT/MOT if the window isn't working properly. Try ebay or a breakers yard for the part.
The condition of a window is a requirement but not it's operation. The car is safe to be driven with a sound window that is up. It creates no safety risk or danger to other road users and so it is not required. A driver's inconvenience is not a matter for government just fro the driver themselve
It is an MOT failure if you are unable to adjust the drivers wing mirror. It is an NCT failure regardless.
And hand signals.
Think the clutch is going to fail on the jetta (07).
When pressing the clutch pedal and getting a judder in the pedal - definitely not smooth.
Is it just a time bomb now? How much would it take to replace? Get it done now before she goes or wait? Anyone know a good garage in the south of the city / carryduff?
Quote from: DickyRock on July 14, 2013, 07:51:59 PM
Think the clutch is going to fail on the jetta (07).
When pressing the clutch pedal and getting a judder in the pedal - definitely not smooth.
Is it just a time bomb now? How much would it take to replace? Get it done now before she goes or wait? Anyone know a good garage in the south of the city / carryduff?
Flywheel and clutch kit required. Common fault from about 80000miles on. Cost about 5-600. Do not let someone talk you into a solid flywheel conversion. If you take it to us in Ballygawley we will do you a decent price.
My brothers 03 1.8tdci focus starts to vibrate/scraping noise when idling but goes away/becomes less obvious when you depress the clutch or put it into gear and drive off. Does this sound like clutch/fly wheel job?
Quote from: omagh_gael on July 14, 2013, 09:37:15 PM
My brothers 03 1.8tdci focus starts to vibrate/scraping noise when idling but goes away/becomes less obvious when you depress the clutch or put it into gear and drive off. Does this sound like clutch/fly wheel job?
Possibly or maybe the release bearing. Either way it requires the gearbox to be removed.
Quote from: omagh_gael on July 14, 2013, 09:37:15 PM
My brothers 03 1.8tdci focus starts to vibrate/scraping noise when idling but goes away/becomes less obvious when you depress the clutch or put it into gear and drive off. Does this sound like clutch/fly wheel job?
I had the same motor and what you described was flywheel. Sold the car as it was gonna cost more to fix (that and the other faults) than it was worth.
I had same problem - look back to page 4- and it turned out not to be fly wheel. Not sure what it was but it wasn't as dear to fix, even by VW dealer, as I had feared.
Quote from: Rois on July 14, 2013, 11:24:45 PM
I had same problem - look back to page 4- and it turned out not to be fly wheel. Not sure what it was but it wasn't as dear to fix, even by VW dealer, as I had feared.
Could you find out what it was? Curious.
Quote from: GJL on July 14, 2013, 11:39:02 PM
Quote from: Rois on July 14, 2013, 11:24:45 PM
I had same problem - look back to page 4- and it turned out not to be fly wheel. Not sure what it was but it wasn't as dear to fix, even by VW dealer, as I had feared.
Could you find out what it was? Curious.
I'll try, it would be on the Donnelly receipt I got, but I may have thrown it out. Cost me about £200 to get fixed which I was relieved about but symptoms were exactly the same.
Santa Fe (2004) for sale, 150,000 miles on it, diesel, manual. New clutch and 6 months MOT. Looking £1900
Her indoors's Citroen C4 is pinking fairly badly under load. I assume this is over-advanced timing. In the old days I'd have attacked this myself with the strobe light and distributor adjustment. Is there any DIY solution for electronic ignition or do I have to pay a few hundred quid to get a computer plugged in and a setting adjusted?
Have you checked the timing with the strobe light? Electronic ignition just replaces the points with a more reliable spark. Adjust the timing by rotating the distributor as normal.
Begod! I didn't know that - thought it'd be an electronic timing adjustment of some kind. Thanks.
Quote from: Denn Forever on July 18, 2013, 08:16:34 PM
Have you checked the timing with the strobe light? Electronic ignition just replaces the points with a more reliable spark. Adjust the timing by rotating the distributor as normal.
;D. Jeysus
Quote from: Denn Forever on July 18, 2013, 08:16:34 PM
Have you checked the timing with the strobe light? Electronic ignition just replaces the points with a more reliable spark. Adjust the timing by rotating the distributor as normal.
What u drivin DF, an Orion??
any thoughts on this car? Wife looking a smaller car
Alfa Romeo 147 1.6 TS Lusso 5dr Hatchback
2003 Reg, Hatchback
Private seller, distance: 13 miles
69,800 miles
Manual
1.6L
Petrol
I would a avoid alfas big time. They do not have a good reputation for reliability at all. Some great value to be had in the second hand market if you are prepared to buy petrol. Get her a golf.
wouldn't touch an alfa, even brand new. Also hear the parts are expensive. Like the man says get her a golf. 13 yr old diesel just sailed through the mot there on monday :)
New Vauxhall (Astra GTC) 1.7 cdti engine.....any opinions?
Honda early flywheel replacement. Ford/Volvo/Mazda rising oil level (diesel contamination). Always told stay away from French makes. VW 2.0 nowhere near as good as the 1.9 and the 1.6 is terrible.
Choices aren't great...... :-\ :-\
Quote from: Milltown Row2 on July 25, 2013, 05:44:35 PM
any thoughts on this car? Wife looking a smaller car
Alfa Romeo 147 1.6 TS Lusso 5dr Hatchback
2003 Reg, Hatchback
Private seller, distance: 13 miles
69,800 miles
Manual
1.6L
Petrol
My friend had a brand new Alfa and said it was in the garage several times for major repairs to gear box, clutch etc in the 2 years he had it and changed to a Mazda 6 a few months back.
He'd never touch one again although he said they were a lovely drive.
Quote from: Milltown Row2 on July 25, 2013, 05:44:35 PM
any thoughts on this car? Wife looking a smaller car
Alfa Romeo 147 1.6 TS Lusso 5dr Hatchback
2003 Reg, Hatchback
Private seller, distance: 13 miles
69,800 miles
Manual
1.6L
Petrol
I had that very car, I think it was 2001 reg. Just died one day. There were so many problems with it they just scrapped it.
what about the C4 Vt Coupe? It's 2005, petrol with 87,000 miles on it selling at £1300
I'm rubbish at buying cars
Have a look at honestjohn.co.uk for car reviews going well back into the 90s, it's pretty good and gives a rundown of common problems on various cars.
I'm getting a vibration in the pedals and floor when I go above 110km/hr
No vibration in steering wheel so I'm assuming it isn't a wheel balancing problem.
Also when I put the foot down to pass a car on the motorway it gets slightly worse and it feels like the engine is labouring.
Any ideas?
Stay below 110 kph and you'll be grand.
Quote from: laoislad on August 03, 2013, 09:20:33 AM
I'm getting a vibration in the pedals and floor when I go above 110km/hr
No vibration in steering wheel so I'm assuming it isn't a wheel balancing problem.
Also when I put the foot down to pass a car on the motorway it gets slightly worse and it feels like the engine is labouring.
Any ideas?
Get rid of the Beach Boys CD for starters ;D
Can anyone who isn't a smart arse help me with my question!
I'm guessing MR
Engine or transmission mounts have worn/failed. Might be something in the rear suspension. Would recommend visiting a forum on your car to see if its a common issue that's been root caused.
Did the wheels come off the wagon today MR?
Quote from: theskull1 on August 04, 2013, 08:36:45 PM
Did the wheels come off the wagon today MR?
I'll pm ya
my wee lad turned on the lights inside car. i never noticed and they drained the battery. i have used jump leads to start it but it just drains out again a few afters after i turn car off. ihave checked and doesnt seem to be anything else other than those internal lights that i have since turned off
do i need to charge battery? or do i need a new battery?
Quote from: snoopdog on August 15, 2013, 06:05:39 PM
my wee lad turned on the lights inside car. i never noticed and they drained the battery. i have used jump leads to start it but it just drains out again a few afters after i turn car off. ihave checked and doesnt seem to be anything else other than those internal lights that i have since turned off
do i need to charge battery? or do i need a new battery?
Take it for a 30 minute drive to let the battery charge itself.
cheers . will do that this evening
GJL (or anyone else) ... what's the verdict on the 1.4D Fabia II's? Thinking of one for the missus - maybe 09/10 territory.
It it basically a 1.4 TDI VW polo so how bad could it be. Go for it IMO.
Quote from: StephenC on August 15, 2013, 10:51:46 PM
GJL (or anyone else) ... what's the verdict on the 1.4D Fabia II's? Thinking of one for the missus - maybe 09/10 territory.
My mechanic wouldn't recommend a diesel for lots of town driving.
Quote from: GJL on August 15, 2013, 11:27:45 PM
It it basically a 1.4 TDI VW polo so how bad could it be. Go for it IMO.
Yeah, my thoughts exactly. Good man.
Quote from: theskull1 on August 15, 2013, 11:55:36 PM
Quote from: StephenC on August 15, 2013, 10:51:46 PM
GJL (or anyone else) ... what's the verdict on the 1.4D Fabia II's? Thinking of one for the missus - maybe 09/10 territory.
My mechanic wouldn't recommend a diesel for lots of town driving.
She has a ~30 mile daily commute so I reckon the diesel will do the job.
Just changed the indicator light bulb on the Megane, was mental!! Holy fcuk Megane tried there best to get me to go to the garage to change a light bulb!! I wasn't beat........ Took me over an hour ffs
As someone pointed out, in France you have to carry spare lightbulbs, but in French made cars you nearly can't change one without dismantling the car!
Cars due for a service, so was about to get it sorted as MOT coming up also, in the space of two days the emissions indicator came on and injector fault came on!!
So with the fuel low the car wouldn't start as there wasn't enough fuel to pump into the injectors i was told, so I filled it up job done started was asked was it dirty fuel, I got it in a normal garage not one of these dodgy ones but who knows ffs. Now the emission light is confusing as I'm unsure of the problem it will cause if I continue to drive before I get it fixed.
Is it a case of cleaning the fuel fillter for the injector problem and replacing something where the emissions is located?
Quote from: Milltown Row2 on September 23, 2013, 09:51:08 AM
Cars due for a service, so was about to get it sorted as MOT coming up also, in the space of two days the emissions indicator came on and injector fault came on!!
So with the fuel low the car wouldn't start as there wasn't enough fuel to pump into the injectors i was told, so I filled it up job done started was asked was it dirty fuel, I got it in a normal garage not one of these dodgy ones but who knows ffs. Now the emission light is confusing as I'm unsure of the problem it will cause if I continue to drive before I get it fixed.
Is it a case of cleaning the fuel fillter for the injector problem and replacing something where the emissions is located?
This still the Santa Fe? You need to get rid of that yoke if it is.
I had a great start to the day - flat tyre and on removing the spare found it was flat too! :-[
Quote from: Tony Baloney on September 23, 2013, 01:19:12 PM
Quote from: Milltown Row2 on September 23, 2013, 09:51:08 AM
Cars due for a service, so was about to get it sorted as MOT coming up also, in the space of two days the emissions indicator came on and injector fault came on!!
So with the fuel low the car wouldn't start as there wasn't enough fuel to pump into the injectors i was told, so I filled it up job done started was asked was it dirty fuel, I got it in a normal garage not one of these dodgy ones but who knows ffs. Now the emission light is confusing as I'm unsure of the problem it will cause if I continue to drive before I get it fixed.
Is it a case of cleaning the fuel fillter for the injector problem and replacing something where the emissions is located?
This still the Santa Fe? You need to get rid of that yoke if it is.
I had a great start to the day - flat tyre and on removing the spare found it was flat too! :-[
Santa Fe long gone, got £1900 for it, unreal lol. No Bought a 1.9dci Megane, is driving well just the emission indicator on. I've done that before, flat met by another flat!!
Quote from: Milltown Row2 on September 23, 2013, 01:43:58 PM
Quote from: Tony Baloney on September 23, 2013, 01:19:12 PM
Quote from: Milltown Row2 on September 23, 2013, 09:51:08 AM
Cars due for a service, so was about to get it sorted as MOT coming up also, in the space of two days the emissions indicator came on and injector fault came on!!
So with the fuel low the car wouldn't start as there wasn't enough fuel to pump into the injectors i was told, so I filled it up job done started was asked was it dirty fuel, I got it in a normal garage not one of these dodgy ones but who knows ffs. Now the emission light is confusing as I'm unsure of the problem it will cause if I continue to drive before I get it fixed.
Is it a case of cleaning the fuel fillter for the injector problem and replacing something where the emissions is located?
This still the Santa Fe? You need to get rid of that yoke if it is.
I had a great start to the day - flat tyre and on removing the spare found it was flat too! :-[
Santa Fe long gone, got £1900 for it, unreal lol. No Bought a 1.9dci Megane, is driving well just the emission indicator on. I've done that before, flat met by another flat!!
I'm afraid you got rid of one trouble maker and bought another. Those meganes give their fair share of bother.
Have the heater plugs checked. I have seen them put those lights on.
Quote from: GJL on September 23, 2013, 02:07:29 PM
Quote from: Milltown Row2 on September 23, 2013, 01:43:58 PM
Quote from: Tony Baloney on September 23, 2013, 01:19:12 PM
Quote from: Milltown Row2 on September 23, 2013, 09:51:08 AM
Cars due for a service, so was about to get it sorted as MOT coming up also, in the space of two days the emissions indicator came on and injector fault came on!!
So with the fuel low the car wouldn't start as there wasn't enough fuel to pump into the injectors i was told, so I filled it up job done started was asked was it dirty fuel, I got it in a normal garage not one of these dodgy ones but who knows ffs. Now the emission light is confusing as I'm unsure of the problem it will cause if I continue to drive before I get it fixed.
Is it a case of cleaning the fuel fillter for the injector problem and replacing something where the emissions is located?
This still the Santa Fe? You need to get rid of that yoke if it is.
I had a great start to the day - flat tyre and on removing the spare found it was flat too! :-[
Santa Fe long gone, got £1900 for it, unreal lol. No Bought a 1.9dci Megane, is driving well just the emission indicator on. I've done that before, flat met by another flat!!
I'm afraid you got rid of one trouble maker and bought another. Those meganes give their fair share of bother.
Have the heater plugs checked. I have seen them put those lights on.
Lol Cheers, I better start making my millions soon :P
Have had a lot of electric problems with a Megane, will be avoiding Renault in the future. Worst was when driving along at 60mph, all dashboard lights lit up, hazard lights came on, wipers started going and steering wheel lock came on, scary! Had to have new fuse box installed to clear the problem.
No luck with 2005 model VW Passat either, second oil pump failed within a year, £1000 bill to fix, it's a known design fault on this model.
Quote from: balladmaker on September 23, 2013, 07:47:30 PM
Have had a lot of electric problems with a Megane, will be avoiding Renault in the future. Worst was when driving along at 60mph, all dashboard lights lit up, hazard lights came on, wipers started going and steering wheel lock came on, scary! Had to have new fuse box installed to clear the problem.
No luck with 2005 model VW Passat either, second oil pump failed within a year, £1000 bill to fix, it's a known design fault on this model.
You always hear of the design faults afterwards lol!! I knew there would be issues with the Megane and I haven't spent a penny on it, the light is on but car running fine, I hope she just needs a service, change filters and clear up the emissions problem. buying the parts for all cars seems to be the only way, ya can't fix it without replacing whole bloody systems
A grand to fix an oil pump? :o
If I was living in NI/UK I would be looking at one of the many lease deals. You can get yourself into a new C class diesel Merc for £250 a month and a new GTD Golf for under £200. BMW are likely to match the Merc offer, these cars would lose more in depreciation over the term than the actual cost of the lease. It's worry free motoring and a no brainer in my opinion.
Lease deals - are they not v restrictive in terms of the mileage you can do per year?
Quote from: offtheground on September 24, 2013, 09:20:29 AM
Lease deals - are they not v restrictive in terms of the mileage you can do per year?
Saw one outside a supermarket for a jaguar something or other, similar to a mondeo and it was restricted to 12K a year, I'd do that in 8 months.
Bought a 05 Santa Fe last week.
Grand job. Automatic and was fresh as a daisy after driving up and down from CP on Sunday. I find clutching a killer on the dodgy lower back.
However yesterday I open the passenger door with key and the alarm went off. Since, it goes off anytime I open any door. It wont start either as a result. What to do? Help!
Never had a car with an alarm before. :-[ :'(
Quote from: offtheground on September 24, 2013, 09:20:29 AM
Lease deals - are they not v restrictive in terms of the mileage you can do per year?
I wouldn't have a clue, I assume you could increase the mileage at a cost. I saw these deals advertised in Evo magazine and then had a look on various car forums. I suppose there had to be some sort of catch.
You could always give it a haircut.
Quote from: johnneycool on September 24, 2013, 09:41:30 AM
Quote from: offtheground on September 24, 2013, 09:20:29 AM
Lease deals - are they not v restrictive in terms of the mileage you can do per year?
Saw one outside a supermarket for a jaguar something or other, similar to a mondeo and it was restricted to 12K a year, I'd do that in 8 months.
Had you down as more of a lexus man JC ;D
(http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/00795/alan-partridge460_795711c.jpg)
Quote from: theskull1 on September 24, 2013, 10:57:44 AM
Quote from: johnneycool on September 24, 2013, 09:41:30 AM
Quote from: offtheground on September 24, 2013, 09:20:29 AM
Lease deals - are they not v restrictive in terms of the mileage you can do per year?
Saw one outside a supermarket for a jaguar something or other, similar to a mondeo and it was restricted to 12K a year, I'd do that in 8 months.
Had you down as more of a lexus man JC ;D
(http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/00795/alan-partridge460_795711c.jpg)
Those days of milk and honey are long gone as you well know, a lexus would be too rich for my blood now, need something that'll burn the red biddy and not give any hassle.
(https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcS8mawKA7ffSebpt4fYSiZe80TFM1NoGygOIar5bG7rPyJwRwgR)
QuoteA grand to fix an oil pump?
It's some sort of a balance shaft, that drives the oil pump, that wears its threads and packs in. Thus the oil pump fails, and then whatever damage to the engine which may ensue by the time you have stopped. The twice it happened me, it was on the exact same stretch of the M1 heading north from Dublin, so by the time you get pulled in, any sort of damage could have occurred. So when I say 1K to repair, you have to buy the whole balance shaft, oil pump assembly as a kit, you can't just buy the part that has lost its threads. A nightmare, and once the Passat is fixed this time, it's being moved on. The mechanic is trying to get the actual part engineered locally to get the car going again, I ain't for forking out another grand on the car this time.
What about my f**king car alarm above? :'(
Quote from: moysider on September 24, 2013, 01:03:07 PM
What about my f**king car alarm above? :'(
New battery for your key?
I take it youve done your own googling moysider?
Quote from: theskull1 on September 24, 2013, 09:57:17 PM
I take it youve done your own googling moysider?
Yeah. Sorted it with the remote thingy.
Was driving yesterday and was slowing down, whilst doing so was changing gears but briefly was in too high a gear that the car shuddered but as i slowed then the oil light came on and car completely lost all power and stopped. Panicked and thought the engine had seized or something but anyway i started it again and it started back up immediately with no hassle. Drove it on home no bother and had it checked for oil and there was plenty in it.
Any ideas anyone?
Also should mention the battery light came on last week as i was driving home, stayed on for the 10 miles or so til got home but never came on again when i restarted or since. It could be nothing but just a bit worried with the oil light coming on and loss of power.
Did you mean to go into 4th and find 2nd?
Mechanical over reving is not good for any engine. Just depends on how much you over reved. Are you sure the engine is running totally normal again? No power loss, fluid loss, over heating?
Quote from: tyrone girl on September 26, 2013, 09:52:17 AM
Was driving yesterday and was slowing down, whilst doing so was changing gears but briefly was in too high a gear that the car shuddered but as i slowed then the oil light came on and car completely lost all power and stopped. Panicked and thought the engine had seized or something but anyway i started it again and it started back up immediately with no hassle. Drove it on home no bother and had it checked for oil and there was plenty in it.
Any ideas anyone?
Also should mention the battery light came on last week as i was driving home, stayed on for the 10 miles or so til got home but never came on again when i restarted or since. It could be nothing but just a bit worried with the oil light coming on and loss of power.
What type of car TG. Where are you from? If you call into me in Ballygawley I could have a look and let you know what I think.
Quote from: tyrone girl on September 26, 2013, 09:52:17 AM
Was driving yesterday and was slowing down, whilst doing so was changing gears but briefly was in too high a gear that the car shuddered but as i slowed then the oil light came on and car completely lost all power and stopped. Panicked and thought the engine had seized or something but anyway i started it again and it started back up immediately with no hassle. Drove it on home no bother and had it checked for oil and there was plenty in it.
Any ideas anyone?
Also should mention the battery light came on last week as i was driving home, stayed on for the 10 miles or so til got home but never came on again when i restarted or since. It could be nothing but just a bit worried with the oil light coming on and loss of power.
I stalled my 2006 diesel jetta at a set of lights, restarted the car before the heater plugs had done their thing and the emissions lamp has been on ever since. I've had car electrics lads with the yolks try and reset it, but its still there.
Doesn't affect the MOT thankfully.
Quote from: theskull1 on September 26, 2013, 12:10:08 PM
Did you mean to go into 4th and find 2nd?
Mechanical over reving is not good for any engine. Just depends on how much you over reved. Are you sure the engine is running totally normal again? No power loss, fluid loss, over heating?
No i meant to find 2nd and found 4th. Engine seems to be running totally normal again, maybe slighter slower on accelerating but thats probably my imagination as i dont really think it is. No overheating etc and no noises other than the turbo whine which has been whining and doing my head in for years.
Its a ford focus GJL
Quote from: johnneycool on September 26, 2013, 01:57:36 PM
Doesn't affect the MOT thankfully.
I failed my MOT because a warning light was on. New regulations.
Quote from: tyrone girl on September 26, 2013, 02:29:09 PM
Quote from: theskull1 on September 26, 2013, 12:10:08 PM
Did you mean to go into 4th and find 2nd?
Mechanical over reving is not good for any engine. Just depends on how much you over reved. Are you sure the engine is running totally normal again? No power loss, fluid loss, over heating?
No i meant to find 2nd and found 4th. Engine seems to be running totally normal again, maybe slighter slower on accelerating but thats probably my imagination as i dont really think it is. No overheating etc and no noises other than the turbo whine which has been whining and doing my head in for years.
Its a ford focus GJL
Oh ..get you now.....You'll be grand...not great for an engine but they'd be designed to account for bad drivers ;)
Anyone know anything about DPF's in a car?
Quote from: Rois on September 26, 2013, 02:38:17 PM
Quote from: johnneycool on September 26, 2013, 01:57:36 PM
Doesn't affect the MOT thankfully.
I failed my MOT because a warning light was on. New regulations.
Depends on the warning light, if its brakes or air bags and the likes I think it'll fail ok for that, but not the emissions light as I've got mine through the MOT twice with it on.
Quote from: reddgnhand on September 26, 2013, 04:37:34 PM
Anyone know anything about DPF's in a car?
I know they are giving plenty of bother. What's your problem?
Quote from: GJL on September 26, 2013, 04:53:22 PM
Quote from: reddgnhand on September 26, 2013, 04:37:34 PM
Anyone know anything about DPF's in a car?
I know they are giving plenty of bother. What's your problem?
Blocked and has destroyed turbo. Mechanic says he's going to soak it in parrafin for a few days and see if it clears blockage.
Quote from: reddgnhand on September 26, 2013, 04:59:17 PM
Quote from: GJL on September 26, 2013, 04:53:22 PM
Quote from: reddgnhand on September 26, 2013, 04:37:34 PM
Anyone know anything about DPF's in a car?
I know they are giving plenty of bother. What's your problem?
Blocked and has destroyed turbo. Mechanic says he's going to soak it in parrafin for a few days and see if it clears blockage.
I use stuff called Protec DPF flush. Can get it in Europarts in Dungannon. Was the Engine light on in the run up to the turbo blowing?
Quote from: GJL on September 26, 2013, 05:04:27 PM
Quote from: reddgnhand on September 26, 2013, 04:59:17 PM
Quote from: GJL on September 26, 2013, 04:53:22 PM
Quote from: reddgnhand on September 26, 2013, 04:37:34 PM
Anyone know anything about DPF's in a car?
I know they are giving plenty of bother. What's your problem?
Blocked and has destroyed turbo. Mechanic says he's going to soak it in parrafin for a few days and see if it clears blockage.
I use stuff called Protec DPF flush. Can get it in Europarts in Dungannon. Was the Engine light on in the run up to the turbo blowing?
Yes there was a regeneration done and I was advised to take it for a good drive that's when turbo went.
Quote from: reddgnhand on September 26, 2013, 05:12:14 PM
Quote from: GJL on September 26, 2013, 05:04:27 PM
Quote from: reddgnhand on September 26, 2013, 04:59:17 PM
Quote from: GJL on September 26, 2013, 04:53:22 PM
Quote from: reddgnhand on September 26, 2013, 04:37:34 PM
Anyone know anything about DPF's in a car?
I know they are giving plenty of bother. What's your problem?
Blocked and has destroyed turbo. Mechanic says he's going to soak it in parrafin for a few days and see if it clears blockage.
I use stuff called Protec DPF flush. Can get it in Europarts in Dungannon. Was the Engine light on in the run up to the turbo blowing?
Yes there was a regeneration done and I was advised to take it for a good drive that's when turbo went.
If the engine light is on for whatever reason the regen does not take place. This is why DPFs block in the first place.
Ford Focus been giving a rumbling sort of noise over past couple of weeks nothing major and a bit of pulsation when heavy braking. Thought it was maybe brake discs or pads (though no loss of power in braking) but it wasnt sounding bad.
Over the last week though i have noticed a sound in my clutch like a grinding/ scraping noise. This doesnt happen though when im engaging the clutch whilst changing gears when im driving as in moving from 5th to 4th or 4th to 3rd or anything like that. The noise comes when im slowing down and having to go into first gear at all or slow the car way down coming to roundabout or traffic lights. when i do this and press the clutch in the noise is very bad. When im reversing and using the clutch that way theres also the really bad sound. Mechanic reckoned from talking to him on phone that its the flywheel maybe gone. I have been looking up online and could cry it seems like serious money.
Anyone had any experience with this? He did say to me however i could drive away at it until after christmas and get it sorted then. Does this sound right?
Any help greatly appreciated :)
I got used to my flywheel rattling away and I'm sure I drove her like that for 10 or 20K miles more before i replaced it. I had near 150K on the clock when I did the work. All depends on the type of driving you do of course, but some cars need theirs replacing after 40 or 50K so some models last better than others AFAIA
Theres 95 k on my car at the minute. Was yours a serious grinding scraping sound when pressing the clutch in at all? Its the sound of the noise freaks me out when driving it is so loud.
What did it cost to get yours fixed?
I would describe it as a rattle. Youtube "dual mass flyhweel noise" and listen to see how its compares
In regards to cost, bought the clutch kit online for around £550
Forget what the labour was
I wouldnt class mine as a rattle though its a real grinding scraping match when sitting in traffic. Mind you i went out at lunchtime there and there wasnt a noise to be heard. Strange :o
Its the flywheel. Same went on my Focus.
My car turns itself on at random moments. Any cures?
Quote
My car turns itself on at random moments. Any cures?
1. take out the battery
2. take out the engine
3. leave your car immersed in a lake
a friend of mine needs a new clutch for Toyota Avensis garage in Dublin is looking 1100 to do the job.
Is it just me r is that daylight robbery?
anyone know anywhere in Dublin preferably north city know any mechanic that will do the job for less than 650 labour, he was charging 450 for a clutch
Quote from: snoopdog on December 13, 2013, 09:18:25 PM
a friend of mine needs a new clutch for Toyota Avensis garage in Dublin is looking 1100 to do the job.
Is it just me r is that daylight robbery?
anyone know anywhere in Dublin preferably north city know any mechanic that will do the job for less than 650 labour, he was charging 450 for a clutch
You would be cheaper driving up to my mechanic in Armagh! :o
Anybody know how to get the ABS light to go off in a golf? The system works and it passed the MOT but the light comes on every time I go above 10mph.
Any A4 owners in here? Looking at buying an 09 diesel with about 70-80k miles on the clock. Saw some good examples but am apprehensive especially buying privately. Someone mentioned clutch issues with this car - is this common? Bit of a novice when it comes to this carry on, Any experts?
A4's can be troublesome so pick a good one, there's plenty of choice out there. Turbo's, injectors, pumps and starter failures can be common. Diesel quality in the south is sh*t, I know cause we have a maintenance company. Since common rail injection arrived, diesel pump replacements have greatly increased so I'd recommend replacement of the fuel filter at each service.
Quote from: general_lee on January 13, 2014, 07:06:14 PM
Any A4 owners in here? Looking at buying an 09 diesel with about 70-80k miles on the clock. Saw some good examples but am apprehensive especially buying privately. Someone mentioned clutch issues with this car - is this common? Bit of a novice when it comes to this carry on, Any experts?
Bought a 08 A4 two years ago. Had 70K miles on it. Never had a minute's trouble with it. Got a company car last year so got rid of it after only having it for about 18 months so limited enough time with it. But would definitely reccommend. Might be worth considering a trip to UK. We managed to lop about 1500 yoyos of the price for a similar car over here. (We were going to London anyway to see an inlaw, so flew over and then just took the ferry back with the car)
Quote from: Mayoffs on January 13, 2014, 10:49:01 PM
A4's can be troublesome so pick a good one, there's plenty of choice out there. Turbo's, injectors, pumps and starter failures can be common. Diesel quality in the south is sh*t, I know cause we have a maintenance company. Since common rail injection arrived, diesel pump replacements have greatly increased so I'd recommend replacement of the fuel filter at each service.
is this not normal practise? Only costs a few pound and can be handy enough changed yourself.
Im still driving around with this clutch/flywheel problem or whatever it may be.
Anyone who had the problem with their car know how long can drive with the clutch scraping like this? The mechanic told me start of December i could drive away at it til after christmas and have it fixed then.
The thought though of £600 fix or something similar is depressing me.
Quote from: tyrone girl on January 14, 2014, 10:01:15 AM
Im still driving around with this clutch/flywheel problem or whatever it may be.
Anyone who had the problem with their car know how long can drive with the clutch scraping like this? The mechanic told me start of December i could drive away at it til after christmas and have it fixed then.
The thought though of £600 fix or something similar is depressing me.
Mechanic told me i could get the guts of a year out of mine before it gave up. It didn't last 6 months & cost £900+ (Ford Focus)
EDIT: just seen your previous posts. Mine is a 2006 1.8 diesel Focus, sounds like you're having the same issue as I had, eventually it just wouldn't move one day I started it. Unfortunately happened me in Belfast so labour was high. Clutch & Flywheel kit cost £550+ i think. Happened at 111,000 miles
Ah frig your depressing me more! £900 :-\ :'( :'( :'( Mines a ford focus as well
I was thinking along the lines of £500/£600 max and at that im even depressed as hell.
If could get another few months out of it though id be happier. Still not entirely sure that it definitely is the flywheel though cos its a scraping sound more than a rattle and absolutely no sound on driving in fact it drives fine in general. Its when push in the clutch sitting in traffic etc.
Quote from: general_lee on January 13, 2014, 07:06:14 PM
Any A4 owners in here? Looking at buying an 09 diesel with about 70-80k miles on the clock. Saw some good examples but am apprehensive especially buying privately. Someone mentioned clutch issues with this car - is this common? Bit of a novice when it comes to this carry on, Any experts?
I have an A4 Avant. Great car. Mine has about 55k on clock. No problems with it so far anyway.
Mine is the 1.9 TDI engine.
see edit to above post
Your description sounds exactly like mine, I'd call it a scraping rather than a rattle and once i got going up through the gears it was fine.
Drive away at it, but when it finally goes it'll be a nightmare if you're nowhere near home
Good man thanks a million. I would need to keep an eye on it big time then.
If could get it til the end of next month with it il get it fixed. Exact same car and engine size too. 100k on this one. Depressing :-\
Im seeing clutch and flywheel kits on ebay for £250. is that the right thing?
Quote from: tyrone girl on January 14, 2014, 10:46:13 AM
Im seeing clutch and flywheel kits on ebay for £250. is that the right thing?
From a supplier? sounds too cheap.
...... things like flywheel replacement are now service items. Its going to happen to
every car (deisel anyway) after 60/70+K miles. I got away to 150K before I replaced mine, but a town driver would be a lot less. I shouldnt be a shock
If i hoke out the link for it here will u take a look and tell me what you think?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-FOCUS-1-8-TDCI-CLUTCH-DUAL-MASS-FLYWHEEL-KIT-01-05-/130391201333
This could be completely wrong thing?
I used to use a website on line were I could put in the part type and it allowed businesses to contact me with prices. Some of them were used but came with guarantees. Was really good. In some cases I was getting parts from 25-50% of what I was being quoted by the garage.
I'll see if I can find that website.
This isn't the one but something similar.
http://www.247spares.co.uk/partrequest
Just put in your Reg (Or the car details if it doesn't pull it up from the reg) and then type in the part. people will then contact you with prices, and they're competitive. Now most are used parts but they will generally tell you of the quality. I used the other service multible times and never had any problems. I put in rough details there for a 2006 Focus 1.8 diesel and a guy called within minutes with a price of 50 + VAT and delivery. Said very good quality. As far as I remember there's a returns policy as well if it isn't up to stratch (But might be worth double checking this!!)
Might be an option for you.
Quote from: tyrone girl on January 14, 2014, 11:28:16 AM
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-FOCUS-1-8-TDCI-CLUTCH-DUAL-MASS-FLYWHEEL-KIT-01-05-/130391201333
This could be completely wrong thing?
the 01-05 is 2001-2005 afaik
Quote from: tyrone girl on January 14, 2014, 11:28:16 AM
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-FOCUS-1-8-TDCI-CLUTCH-DUAL-MASS-FLYWHEEL-KIT-01-05-/130391201333
This could be completely wrong thing?
Well LUK I think made my replacement so that looks to be a cracking price. Looks good to me
Quote from: WeeDonns on January 14, 2014, 11:33:46 AM
Quote from: tyrone girl on January 14, 2014, 11:28:16 AM
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-FOCUS-1-8-TDCI-CLUTCH-DUAL-MASS-FLYWHEEL-KIT-01-05-/130391201333
This could be completely wrong thing?
the 01-05 is 2001-2005 afaik
I assume TG you've used that compatibility check on the webpade to see if your model suits this part?
Clutch kits
http://www.eurocarparts.com/clutch-kit
Fly wheels - this is the expensive bit!
http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Ford_Focus_1.8_2006/p/car-parts/car-transmission/clutch-and-associated-parts/flywheel/?336590570&1&0f9802040e38ab6b30aae8c14464b43fbc6435c2&000134
Put your reg in and see what you get. Mines was the same price in Caldwells in Omagh as it was online
Just in case my edit got lost on previous page!
http://www.247spares.co.uk/partrequest
Just put in your Reg (Or the car details if it doesn't pull it up from the reg) and then type in the part. people will then contact you with prices, and they're competitive. Now most are used parts but they will generally tell you of the quality. I used the other service multible times and never had any problems. I put in rough details there for a 2006 Focus 1.8 diesel and a guy called within minutes with a price of 50 + VAT and delivery. Said very good quality. As far as I remember there's a returns policy as well if it isn't up to stratch (But might be worth double checking this!!)
Might be an option for you.
Can you put in a clutch without the flywheel?
Quote from: Milltown Row2 on January 14, 2014, 11:53:59 AM
Can you put in a clutch without the flywheel?
I suggested this when getting mine done but mechanic basically said it was a bad idea as the flywheel would need replaced soon enough and its so much work to get at them you may as well replace both at the same time
Is it not the Flywheel that fails and the clutch is just collateral damage?
Quote from: WeeDonns on January 14, 2014, 12:06:18 PM
Quote from: Milltown Row2 on January 14, 2014, 11:53:59 AM
Can you put in a clutch without the flywheel?
I suggested this when getting mine done but mechanic basically said it was a bad idea as the flywheel would need replaced soon enough and its so much work to get at them you may as well replace both at the same time
Well I did that and sold it on, I did inform the buyer and was told by the mechanic that it would run for another 5/6 years without the flywheel
Quote from: Denn Forever on January 14, 2014, 12:15:32 PM
Is it not the Flywheel that fails and the clutch is just collateral damage?
Something like that alright.
TBH a big part of the cost of these things is labour to disassemble the bloody engine and putting it back together again, so when its apart you may as well get both done.
I got a quote from a garage for changing the timing belt on an Audi A4 2.0TDi and its £300+, the belt kit itself is about £100 but the whole front has to come out of the car to do it.
I didnt even look to see that was 2001 - 2005 but will search now for 2006 model. If that was the price it would be some job though £250. Would that be all i would have to buy and give to mechanic? How much would we be talking labour
Gonna look that site up here now and see what quotes i get could be a handy job. £50 plus vat :o :o couldnt be that cheap ?
Quote from: tyrone girl on January 14, 2014, 12:30:50 PM
I didnt even look to see that was 2001 - 2005 but will search now for 2006 model. If that was the price it would be some job though £250. Would that be all i would have to buy and give to mechanic? How much would we be talking labour
Quote from: tyrone girl on January 14, 2014, 12:30:50 PM
I didnt even look to see that was 2001 - 2005 but will search now for 2006 model. If that was the price it would be some job though £250. Would that be all i would have to buy and give to mechanic? How much would we be talking labour
[/b]
Most women usually take 12/14 hours of labour ;)
Id say most garages charge 40/60 quid an hour nowadays ffs. You can shop around and get it cheaper though
If could get the right kit for decent price would be half the battle. Might look at getting one within the next fortnight then set a few quid aside for the labour. If could get that for even £250 id be more than happy.
Quote from: tyrone girl on January 14, 2014, 12:53:19 PM
If could get the right kit for decent price would be half the battle. Might look at getting one within the next fortnight then set a few quid aside for the labour. If could get that for even £250 id be more than happy.
Are you far from Ballygawley? We would fit it (labour) for £140. It would take a full day.
As has been said the noise is been caused by a faulty dual mass flywheel. The clutch is probably still ok but when you are that far down it would be mad not to change it. Avoid second hand as it might not last too long.
What would you think about them parts on ebay? do they look to be ok? Got text messages from that other place with it for £165 but that would be second hand. The ones on ebay seem to be new.
Is that all i would need just whats on the link?
Quote from: tyrone girl on January 14, 2014, 03:01:47 PM
What would you think about them parts on ebay? do they look to be ok? Got text messages from that other place with it for £165 but that would be second hand. The ones on ebay seem to be new.
Is that all i would need just whats on the link?
They look 100% if it is the right one for your car. LUK is a great make and one that a lot of cars come with originally.
What year is your car? PM me the reg number and I will get you a price from my supplier
Quote from: general_lee on January 13, 2014, 07:06:14 PM
Any A4 owners in here? Looking at buying an 09 diesel with about 70-80k miles on the clock. Saw some good examples but am apprehensive especially buying privately. Someone mentioned clutch issues with this car - is this common? Bit of a novice when it comes to this carry on, Any experts?
The A4 is a great car. I have sold loads of them and also service quite a few for customers. They have their faults but all cars do. If it has a good Audi service history you can't go far wrong. We bring them in from England. Most are Ex-company cars with good histories and motorway miles. English miles are much better than Irish I find.
Quote from: Mayoffs on January 13, 2014, 10:49:01 PM
A4's can be troublesome so pick a good one, there's plenty of choice out there. Turbo's, injectors, pumps and starter failures can be common. Diesel quality in the south is sh*t, I know cause we have a maintenance company. Since common rail injection arrived, diesel pump replacements have greatly increased so I'd recommend replacement of the fuel filter at each service.
Quote from: supersarsfields on January 14, 2014, 08:39:29 AM
Bought a 08 A4 two years ago. Had 70K miles on it. Never had a minute's trouble with it. Got a company car last year so got rid of it after only having it for about 18 months so limited enough time with it. But would definitely reccommend. Might be worth considering a trip to UK. We managed to lop about 1500 yoyos of the price for a similar car over here. (We were going to London anyway to see an inlaw, so flew over and then just took the ferry back with the car)
Quote from: laoislad on January 14, 2014, 10:31:59 AM
I have an A4 Avant. Great car. Mine has about 55k on clock. No problems with it so far anyway.
Mine is the 1.9 TDI engine.
Cheers for the input lads. Had a look at England and to be honest don't have the time to be shopping around and then trying to arrange flights over, ferries home etc. I'd be hoping to get a 1.9 TDI also, have drove similar VAGs before so I'm confident enough, just worried because there's always the risk when you buy privately that you might end up with a dud!
Quote from: GJL on January 14, 2014, 03:27:37 PM
Quote from: general_lee on January 13, 2014, 07:06:14 PM
Any A4 owners in here? Looking at buying an 09 diesel with about 70-80k miles on the clock. Saw some good examples but am apprehensive especially buying privately. Someone mentioned clutch issues with this car - is this common? Bit of a novice when it comes to this carry on, Any experts?
The A4 is a great car. I have sold loads of them and also service quite a few for customers. They have their faults but all cars do. If it has a good Audi service history you can't go far wrong. We bring them in from England. Most are Ex-company cars with good histories and motorway miles. English miles are much better than Irish I find.
Thanks. Yeah the one I'm looking at has one previous owner (retired) which to me is a good sign. It looks a clean enough car and full Audi service history. Would you know if any other maintenance work would be due on it soon if its at 70k, timebelt has been done recently on the one I'm after but as far as I know that's it.
I have a problem with my KIA Rio other than the fact that its a KIA Rio.
There is a moaning like sound coming from the front left wheel. when I turn left or go round a roundabout. I was told at my MOT it was a problem with the brake disks and pads. I've had these replaced but the problem remains.
The steering gets stiff and the tyre is nearly bald on its outer edge. Is it just the tracking or something worse. When I got it, there was a problem with the ''ball joint' I think. I got it sorted and it was fine. Perhaps its come up again.
Any guesses what the problem is.
Quote from: thejuice on January 14, 2014, 11:08:20 PM
I have a problem with my KIA Rio other than the fact that its a KIA Rio.
There is a moaning like sound coming from the front left wheel. when I turn left or go round a roundabout. I was told at my MOT it was a problem with the brake disks and pads. I've had these replaced but the problem remains.
The steering gets stiff and the tyre is nearly bald on its outer edge. Is it just the tracking or something worse. When I got it, there was a problem with the ''ball joint' I think. I got it sorted and it was fine. Perhaps its come up again.
Any guesses what the problem is.
Have you had the hub bearing checked?
No. Perhaps I should do that.
It's a pity I've no where to go to just take a look at it like I used to at home. Might just have to crawl under the car one day and take a look.
Quote from: GJL on January 14, 2014, 11:43:09 PM
Quote from: thejuice on January 14, 2014, 11:08:20 PM
I have a problem with my KIA Rio other than the fact that its a KIA Rio.
There is a moaning like sound coming from the front left wheel. when I turn left or go round a roundabout. I was told at my MOT it was a problem with the brake disks and pads. I've had these replaced but the problem remains.
The steering gets stiff and the tyre is nearly bald on its outer edge. Is it just the tracking or something worse. When I got it, there was a problem with the ''ball joint' I think. I got it sorted and it was fine. Perhaps its come up again.
Any guesses what the problem is.
Have you had the hub bearing checked?
Could it be the calipers?
It could be but by your description my first guess is bearing. To check if caliper is sticking go for a drive. After few miles stop and put your hand on the 2 front wheels. If the one on the side making the noise is hot compared to the other side it is a sticking caliper. Be careful not to burn your hand.
Quote from: GJL on January 15, 2014, 03:35:21 PM
Quote from: general_lee on January 14, 2014, 03:33:49 PM
Quote from: GJL on January 14, 2014, 03:27:37 PM
Quote from: general_lee on January 13, 2014, 07:06:14 PM
Any A4 owners in here? Looking at buying an 09 diesel with about 70-80k miles on the clock. Saw some good examples but am apprehensive especially buying privately. Someone mentioned clutch issues with this car - is this common? Bit of a novice when it comes to this carry on, Any experts?
The A4 is a great car. I have sold loads of them and also service quite a few for customers. They have their faults but all cars do. If it has a good Audi service history you can't go far wrong. We bring them in from England. Most are Ex-company cars with good histories and motorway miles. English miles are much better than Irish I find.
Thanks. Yeah the one I'm looking at has one previous owner (retired) which to me is a good sign. It looks a clean enough car and full Audi service history. Would you know if any other maintenance work would be due on it soon if its at 70k, timebelt has been done recently on the one I'm after but as far as I know that's it.
This is an example of the type of cars we sell. It is currently in stock.
(http://www.usedcarsni.com/pics/photos/000/124/161/128/124364088.400.jpg)
The VRT to import to ROI is 3674 Euro.
It's a class car!
http://www.usedcarsni.com/124161128? (http://www.usedcarsni.com/124161128?)
Fcuk that looks good value!
Turns out it was the hub bearings in the end. The ABS sensor 'disintegrated' when they were replacing it, so I had to stump up for that as well. Spent half the current value of the car this month on maintenance. :(
Quote from: thejuice on January 20, 2014, 03:36:19 PM
Turns out it was the hub bearings in the end. The ABS sensor 'disintegrated' when they were replacing it, so I had to stump up for that as well. Spent half the current value of the car this month on maintenance. :(
Sounded like a bearing alright.
The ABS sensor breaking up often happens when doing this job. Not the mechanics fault. It slides into a tight hole with an interference fit and with all the heat involved in that area it is impossible to get out in one piece.
I used to sell a lot of cars into the south of Ireland but that all stopped with the recession. The last few months I have noticed a marked increase in the amount of enquiries and sales across the border. Hopefully a sign of better times. :)
Any ideas on this ? I had the dip light go on the car there and had it changed (xenon bulb £58 ffs) but it is still not working. If it aint the bulb what could it be ?
It could be you dip switch or the relay.
The new bulb could be faulty.
Quote from: GJL on February 24, 2014, 12:17:26 PM
It could be you dip switch or the relay.
Noticed this evening that the dip light (passenger side) would come on for a few seconds but then go out again, so just left with the side light on the passenger side. Loose connection ?
Feckin car last night gave a bit of a splutter on the way home, heater plug light is now flashing on and off, car seems OK to drive, bit sluggish at low revs, easy to stall on take off and a hoor to start.
Got into it this morning started on the button, driving as normal, then after 15 minutes, slight splutter, heater plug light flashing again...
its a 2006 2.0Tdi jetta
How would a faulty MAF respond?
Anyone recommend a good valet service in Belfast?
Quote from: johnneycool on March 07, 2014, 12:55:46 PM
Feckin car last night gave a bit of a splutter on the way home, heater plug light is now flashing on and off, car seems OK to drive, bit sluggish at low revs, easy to stall on take off and a hoor to start.
Got into it this morning started on the button, driving as normal, then after 15 minutes, slight splutter, heater plug light flashing again...
its a 2006 2.0Tdi jetta
How would a faulty MAF respond?
Don't think it sounds like MAF. Could be EGR valve of even dodgy diesel. The fact that the light comes on means that a fault will be picked up and recorded so plugging it in will give a diagnosis. Where are you based? We are specialising in VAG stuff.
Quote from: GJL on March 07, 2014, 04:00:59 PM
Quote from: johnneycool on March 07, 2014, 12:55:46 PM
Feckin car last night gave a bit of a splutter on the way home, heater plug light is now flashing on and off, car seems OK to drive, bit sluggish at low revs, easy to stall on take off and a hoor to start.
Got into it this morning started on the button, driving as normal, then after 15 minutes, slight splutter, heater plug light flashing again...
its a 2006 2.0Tdi jetta
How would a faulty MAF respond?
Don't think it sounds like MAF. Could be EGR valve of even dodgy diesel. The fact that the light comes on means that a fault will be picked up and recorded so plugging it in will give a diagnosis. Where are you based? We are specialising in VAG stuff.
Got it fixed yesterday with a car electrics specialist in Ards, local mechanic could read the fault code, but hadn't a baldy what it was,, turns out it was an 'Engine speed sender', , the docket also mentions a faulty crank angle sensor, are they one and the same thing?
The part itself not too bad, £47 + VAT, feckin three hours fitting and £40 for initial diagnosis fairly builds the bill up.
I also have a faulty 'throttle control' just beside the EGR, throws up an emissions alarm and causes the engine to judder when stopping the engine, think I'd need to live with it rather than cough up £300 for a replacement.
Where might one get a second hand one or motorfactors type replacement?
Quote from: johnneycool on March 12, 2014, 11:36:04 AM
Quote from: GJL on March 07, 2014, 04:00:59 PM
Quote from: johnneycool on March 07, 2014, 12:55:46 PM
Feckin car last night gave a bit of a splutter on the way home, heater plug light is now flashing on and off, car seems OK to drive, bit sluggish at low revs, easy to stall on take off and a hoor to start.
Got into it this morning started on the button, driving as normal, then after 15 minutes, slight splutter, heater plug light flashing again...
its a 2006 2.0Tdi jetta
How would a faulty MAF respond?
Don't think it sounds like MAF. Could be EGR valve of even dodgy diesel. The fact that the light comes on means that a fault will be picked up and recorded so plugging it in will give a diagnosis. Where are you based? We are specialising in VAG stuff.
Got it fixed yesterday with a car electrics specialist in Ards, local mechanic could read the fault code, but hadn't a baldy what it was,, turns out it was an 'Engine speed sender', , the docket also mentions a faulty crank angle sensor, are they one and the same thing?
The part itself not too bad, £47 + VAT, feckin three hours fitting and £40 for initial diagnosis fairly builds the bill up.
I also have a faulty 'throttle control' just beside the EGR, throws up an emissions alarm and causes the engine to judder when stopping the engine, think I'd need to live with it rather than cough up £300 for a replacement.
Where might one get a second hand one or motorfactors type replacement?
Yes I know the part you are on about. It is behind the flywheel and is a big enough job to get at. Try Traynors for a second hand throttle control valve or even Ebay. You will need the part number off your own to make an exact match.
Quote from: GJL on March 12, 2014, 11:42:02 AM
Quote from: johnneycool on March 12, 2014, 11:36:04 AM
I also have a faulty 'throttle control' just beside the EGR, throws up an emissions alarm and causes the engine to judder when stopping the engine, think I'd need to live with it rather than cough up £300 for a replacement.
Where might one get a second hand one or motorfactors type replacement?
Yes I know the part you are on about. It is behind the flywheel and is a big enough job to get at. Try Traynors for a second hand throttle control valve or even Ebay. You will need the part number off your own to make an exact match.
I've seen how2's on how to repair throttle body sensors (touching up dry joints on surface mount components) ...dunno if that's the fault on the VW part
Quote from: theskull1 on March 12, 2014, 04:22:54 PM
Quote from: GJL on March 12, 2014, 11:42:02 AM
Quote from: johnneycool on March 12, 2014, 11:36:04 AM
I also have a faulty 'throttle control' just beside the EGR, throws up an emissions alarm and causes the engine to judder when stopping the engine, think I'd need to live with it rather than cough up £300 for a replacement.
Where might one get a second hand one or motorfactors type replacement?
Yes I know the part you are on about. It is behind the flywheel and is a big enough job to get at. Try Traynors for a second hand throttle control valve or even Ebay. You will need the part number off your own to make an exact match.
I've seen how2's on how to repair throttle body sensors (touching up dry joints on surface mount components) ...dunno if that's the fault on the VW part
TBH it didn't look like there was much of a PCB to it, might take it apart and have a quick look then, I had it down as a mechanical part!.
You're well used to getting your knuckles scowb'd
iv been told I need the head gasket replaced on my 2001 astra. only use it for getting to and from work about 25miles there and back. iv been quoted 320quid, is it worth getting it replaced? is this going to lead to more problems down the line? or should I put the money into getting a newer car. was driving well up until this point and has cost me very little in repairs over the years.
What was the reasoning behind replacing it? If you head gasket goes, water gets into your oil which could lead to disaster.
You live near GJL, his labour rates are good. How long would it take to replace a head gasket? 4 hours? The main component of the price you've been quoted may be labour.
GJL- have you any decent runarounds. Car gave up on me last week- need something around 700 to get me to and from work.
Quote from: Under Lights on April 04, 2014, 05:59:29 PM
GJL- have you any decent runarounds. Car gave up on me last week- need something around 700 to get me to and from work.
Nothing at present. Cars at that price I trade in usually only last a couple of days. If I get on soon I'll let you know.
Quote from: SHEEDY on April 04, 2014, 03:55:48 PM
iv been told I need the head gasket replaced on my 2001 astra. only use it for getting to and from work about 25miles there and back. iv been quoted 320quid, is it worth getting it replaced? is this going to lead to more problems down the line? or should I put the money into getting a newer car. was driving well up until this point and has cost me very little in repairs over the years.
No harm but I would suggest that a 2001 Astra is hardly worth the bother or expense.
Quote from: GJL on April 04, 2014, 08:46:06 PM
Quote from: Under Lights on April 04, 2014, 05:59:29 PM
GJL- have you any decent runarounds. Car gave up on me last week- need something around 700 to get me to and from work.
Nothing at present. Cars at that price I trade in usually only last a couple of days. If I get on soon I'll let you know.
Cheers.
GJL but of advice. Had the crankshaft pulley changed on my vectra c on Tuesday, but since then the alarm has been going off randomly. Car was drove to and from Belfast on Wednesday so should have been enough to charge the battery. Any idea what could be wrong now?
Have a Jetta 06 1.9 TDI which gives an awful shudder when you accelerate quickly but is ok when you get up to speed. When out of gear and idle when you throttle it there is no problem so seems to be getting the diesel ok. Any ideas what the problem would be? 97k on it.
Quote from: giveherlong on May 08, 2014, 05:09:18 PM
Have a Jetta 06 1.9 TDI which gives an awful shudder when you accelerate quickly but is ok when you get up to speed. When out of gear and idle when you throttle it there is no problem so seems to be getting the diesel ok. Any ideas what the problem would be? 97k on it.
Has the flywheel & clutch ever been replaced?
Nope clutch or fly wheel never done. Would the shuddering indicate that could be issue?
Do you hear any rattling at idle?
A DMF (dual mass flywheel) rattles away at idle and can judder a bit when you engage the clutch. Symptoms disappear when you're up and going
DMFs last anything from 50k to 150k+ miles depending on the type of driving
Upwards on 500 quid for parts
Perfect when idling
Quote from: BenDover on May 08, 2014, 11:37:35 AM
GJL but of advice. Had the crankshaft pulley changed on my vectra c on Tuesday, but since then the alarm has been going off randomly. Car was drove to and from Belfast on Wednesday so should have been enough to charge the battery. Any idea what could be wrong now?
Hi. I'm afraid I'm not that familiar with vauxhalls. I can't think of how changing the pulley would effect the alarm unless he upset some wiring when doing the job.
Quote from: giveherlong on May 08, 2014, 05:09:18 PM
Have a Jetta 06 1.9 TDI which gives an awful shudder when you accelerate quickly but is ok when you get up to speed. When out of gear and idle when you throttle it there is no problem so seems to be getting the diesel ok. Any ideas what the problem would be? 97k on it.
Like skull suggests it is unlikely to be flywheel unless somebody has replaced it with a cheap solid flywheel conversion kit. These are a bad job and can create judder. Otherwise it would be good to plug it in to see if any faults have recorded. Are there any warning lights on?
planting the foot on the pedal can sometimes bring out a 'miss' in the engine. Maybe there is a compression issue? Or a dodgy injector?
Thanks for all the posts. Still have a month left on warranty. Work has to be done by VAT reg garage and they send bill to company providing warranty. Going to try donnellys in Dungannon
Quote from: giveherlong on May 09, 2014, 09:10:28 AM
Thanks for all the posts. Still have a month left on warranty. Work has to be done by VAT reg garage and they send bill to company providing warranty. Going to try donnellys in Dungannon
We are VAT registered. ;)
Where are u based and when could you take the car?
Quote from: BartSimpson on May 08, 2014, 09:50:30 PM
planting the foot on the pedal can sometimes bring out a 'miss' in the engine. Maybe there is a compression issue? Or a dodgy injector?
What type of car?
Give GJL a shout if you need any car work done. He was able to take me at short notice on Friday evening. Quickly diagnosed it wasn't a clutch or fly wheel issue. Change of fuel filter and air filter done the job. He's based in ballygawley so easy accessible
Quote from: giveherlong on May 14, 2014, 02:36:08 PM
Give GJL a shout if you need any car work done. He was able to take me at short notice on Friday evening. Quickly diagnosed it wasn't a clutch or fly wheel issue. Change of fuel filter and air filter done the job. He's based in ballygawley so easy accessible
Thanks. 8)
What sort of mileage should you expect to get out of a timing belt? What sort of price are you looking at to get it replaced?
Quote from: Fender on May 14, 2014, 11:51:16 PM
What sort of mileage should you expect to get out of a timing belt? What sort of price are you looking at to get it replaced?
Usually 60000 to 80000 depending on the car. Cost also depends. Can be from £100 upwards.
Quote from: GJL on May 15, 2014, 09:08:03 AM
Quote from: Fender on May 14, 2014, 11:51:16 PM
What sort of mileage should you expect to get out of a timing belt? What sort of price are you looking at to get it replaced?
Usually 60000 to 80000 depending on the car. Cost also depends. Can be from £100 upwards.
That be for the belt alone? How much would an honest mechanic charge you to fit the thing?
Quote from: Fender on May 20, 2014, 01:47:25 AM
Quote from: GJL on May 15, 2014, 09:08:03 AM
Quote from: Fender on May 14, 2014, 11:51:16 PM
What sort of mileage should you expect to get out of a timing belt? What sort of price are you looking at to get it replaced?
Usually 60000 to 80000 depending on the car. Cost also depends. Can be from £100 upwards.
That be for the belt alone? How much would an honest mechanic charge you to fit the thing?
For a genuine belt yes (which you'd be mad not to get considering its importance ). Will vary a bit depending on the engine and the variance also apllies to the complexity/time to fit . Average would be same again to fit (maybe slightly more).
Why not read through some car owners forums of your model to get a better idea?
Folks, does anyone have a Nissan Qushqai? Any positive or negative feedback on the Diesel engines? Thinking about going for one and had heard some bad reports on the petrol ones but haven't heard anything at all about the diesel ones. Cheers
Quote from: theskull1 on May 20, 2014, 06:22:12 AM
Quote from: Fender on May 20, 2014, 01:47:25 AM
Quote from: GJL on May 15, 2014, 09:08:03 AM
Quote from: Fender on May 14, 2014, 11:51:16 PM
What sort of mileage should you expect to get out of a timing belt? What sort of price are you looking at to get it replaced?
Usually 60000 to 80000 depending on the car. Cost also depends. Can be from £100 upwards.
Not to take any business away from GJL, who clearly is excellent and I will consider when I next change, but a number of the main dealers do deals on timing belts, probably to get you back to them. VW did an all in price of £299 for passats recently, cheaper for golfs and polos. Now they strongly recommended that you change the water pump at same time- another £80 - but I know from costly experience what a ballox a water pump going can be. Anyway, Tyrone have got enough from Down for time being.
Quote from: take_yer_points on May 24, 2014, 10:58:20 PM
Folks, does anyone have a Nissan Qushqai? Any positive or negative feedback on the Diesel engines? Thinking about going for one and had heard some bad reports on the petrol ones but haven't heard anything at all about the diesel ones. Cheers
The 1.5 dci engine is too small for the Cashcow and surprisingly hard on fuel, especially at motorway speeds. On the plus side it isn't as ugly as the Joke.
Quote from: All of a Sludden on May 25, 2014, 11:58:57 PM
Quote from: take_yer_points on May 24, 2014, 10:58:20 PM
Folks, does anyone have a Nissan Qushqai? Any positive or negative feedback on the Diesel engines? Thinking about going for one and had heard some bad reports on the petrol ones but haven't heard anything at all about the diesel ones. Cheers
The 1.5 dci engine is too small for the Cashcow and surprisingly hard on fuel, especially at motorway speeds. On the plus side it isn't as ugly as the Joke.
The one in looking at is a 2 litre - anyone else any experience of it??
Anyone have an idea if this sounds like the turbos gone in my car?
It's ford focus and always made a whining noise this past few years while accelerating but past few days that's been replaced with a whirring noise coming from engine when accelerating. It's driving fine when at a speed and there's no noise.
When trying to build up speed though it's taking forever, trying to get up to 40 or so is a nightmare, so slow and car like jumps.
Any ideas gladly welcomed.
Quote from: tyrone girl on July 20, 2014, 11:42:35 AM
It's ford focus and always made a whining noise this past few years
It probably was a Tyrone supporter.
Thanks for that useful bit of advice
Quote from: tyrone girl on July 20, 2014, 11:42:35 AM
Anyone have an idea if this sounds like the turbos gone in my car?
It's ford focus and always made a whining noise this past few years while accelerating but past few days that's been replaced with a whirring noise coming from engine when accelerating. It's driving fine when at a speed and there's no noise.
When trying to build up speed though it's taking forever, trying to get up to 40 or so is a nightmare, so slow and car like jumps.
Any ideas gladly welcomed.
Have a whiny Peugeot 407 and my mechanic tells me that it is sign of problems with gearbox bearings
Anyone on here own, or know someone who does, a Volvo S60 Type R? Considering changing the car and like the look of these but would like to hear what another owner thinks of them first. Thanks.
Has anyone ever used one of those sites to look at a cars history? Have a car that i'm look at importing and wondering is it worth checking the backround on it. The car itself drives well and I know the guy well who I'd be getting off but wouldn't mind ruling everything out.
HPI check. Everyone should do one as it only costs a couple of £ but could save some trouble down the line. But don't rule the car of straight away if it's linked with outstanding finance. Sometimes the finance companies are slow at up dating.
Quote from: tyrone girl on July 20, 2014, 11:42:35 AM
Anyone have an idea if this sounds like the turbos gone in my car?
It's ford focus and always made a whining noise this past few years while accelerating but past few days that's been replaced with a whirring noise coming from engine when accelerating. It's driving fine when at a speed and there's no noise.
When trying to build up speed though it's taking forever, trying to get up to 40 or so is a nightmare, so slow and car like jumps.
Any ideas gladly welcomed.
I know almost nothing about cars but I'd suggest checking your oil levels (whirring noise) and sparkplugs (lack of acceleration), for hopefully a quick win. Could also be a dirty injector. But with modern engines it could be anything at all, as I keep finding.
Quote from: thewobbler on July 22, 2014, 11:56:33 AM
Quote from: tyrone girl on July 20, 2014, 11:42:35 AM
Anyone have an idea if this sounds like the turbos gone in my car?
It's ford focus and always made a whining noise this past few years while accelerating but past few days that's been replaced with a whirring noise coming from engine when accelerating. It's driving fine when at a speed and there's no noise.
When trying to build up speed though it's taking forever, trying to get up to 40 or so is a nightmare, so slow and car like jumps.
Any ideas gladly welcomed.
I know almost nothing about cars but I'd suggest checking your oil levels (whirring noise) and sparkplugs (lack of acceleration), for hopefully a quick win. Could also be a dirty injector. But with modern engines it could be anything at all, as I keep finding.
LOL. You obviously don't.
Sounds like bearings in turbo. This is what happens if you don't do regular oil changes. Could also be an EGR valve problem if the car is jumpy.
Quote from: GJL on July 22, 2014, 12:06:32 PM
Quote from: thewobbler on July 22, 2014, 11:56:33 AM
Quote from: tyrone girl on July 20, 2014, 11:42:35 AM
Anyone have an idea if this sounds like the turbos gone in my car?
It's ford focus and always made a whining noise this past few years while accelerating but past few days that's been replaced with a whirring noise coming from engine when accelerating. It's driving fine when at a speed and there's no noise.
When trying to build up speed though it's taking forever, trying to get up to 40 or so is a nightmare, so slow and car like jumps.
Any ideas gladly welcomed.
I know almost nothing about cars but I'd suggest checking your oil levels (whirring noise) and sparkplugs (lack of acceleration), for hopefully a quick win. Could also be a dirty injector. But with modern engines it could be anything at all, as I keep finding.
LOL. You obviously don't.
Sounds like bearings in turbo. This is what happens if you don't do regular oil changes. Could also be an EGR valve problem if the car is jumpy.
Guilty as charged. But I've been having sporadic bouts of jumpy and non-responsive acceleration recently and the internet (who would trust it?) is telling me to check spark plugs and wires. It also tells me (honestly, who would trust it?) of about 20 other things that might be the problem but sparkplugs keep cropping up.
Quote from: GJL on July 22, 2014, 12:06:32 PM
Quote from: thewobbler on July 22, 2014, 11:56:33 AM
Quote from: tyrone girl on July 20, 2014, 11:42:35 AM
Anyone have an idea if this sounds like the turbos gone in my car?
It's ford focus and always made a whining noise this past few years while accelerating but past few days that's been replaced with a whirring noise coming from engine when accelerating. It's driving fine when at a speed and there's no noise.
When trying to build up speed though it's taking forever, trying to get up to 40 or so is a nightmare, so slow and car like jumps.
Any ideas gladly welcomed.
I know almost nothing about cars but I'd suggest checking your oil levels (whirring noise) and sparkplugs (lack of acceleration), for hopefully a quick win. Could also be a dirty injector. But with modern engines it could be anything at all, as I keep finding.
LOL. You obviously don't.
Sounds like bearings in turbo. This is what happens if you don't do regular oil changes. Could also be an EGR valve problem if the car is jumpy.
Gjl will have it sussed I'm sure, but egr valve would be my guess for the lack of acceleration.
Re the whining while accelerating - try changing up before the rev counter hits the red... :P
Its the turbo unfortunately. Though was loads of white smoke not a major indicator of the turbo going in car? I had none of that but anyway my dad got second hand one in traynors for 150 yesterday so it will hopefully do the job for now. What kinda money are we talking for labour or are there any other parts etc that are needed?
Quote from: tyrone girl on July 22, 2014, 12:44:21 PM
Its the turbo unfortunately. Though was loads of white smoke not a major indicator of the turbo going in car? I had none of that but anyway my dad got second hand one in traynors for 150 yesterday so it will hopefully do the job for now. What kinda money are we talking for labour or are there any other parts etc that are needed?
£80 should fit it.
I have a 2006 Mazda 3 TS. 1.6 Petrol. It seems to be driving fine, but if sometimes going around a corner if the oil warning light comes on and then goes away again as soon as i exit the corner. I haven't noticed any oil spots on the ground after I have been parked for awhile. Has anyone got any suggestions as too what it might be? Thanks
Quote from: majestic on July 22, 2014, 01:18:13 PM
I have a 2006 Mazda 3 TS. 1.6 Petrol. It seems to be driving fine, but if sometimes going around a corner if the oil warning light comes on and then goes away again as soon as i exit the corner. I haven't noticed any oil spots on the ground after I have been parked for awhile. Has anyone got any suggestions as too what it might be? Thanks
I'm guessing you have checked your oil level?
Quote from: 93-DY-SAM on July 22, 2014, 01:24:28 PM
Quote from: majestic on July 22, 2014, 01:18:13 PM
I have a 2006 Mazda 3 TS. 1.6 Petrol. It seems to be driving fine, but if sometimes going around a corner if the oil warning light comes on and then goes away again as soon as i exit the corner. I haven't noticed any oil spots on the ground after I have been parked for awhile. Has anyone got any suggestions as too what it might be? Thanks
I'm guessing you have checked your oil level?
Yep!
Quote from: Bingo on July 22, 2014, 11:27:50 AM
Has anyone ever used one of those sites to look at a cars history? Have a car that i'm look at importing and wondering is it worth checking the backround on it. The car itself drives well and I know the guy well who I'd be getting off but wouldn't mind ruling everything out.
Well worth doing, they may be able to tell if the car has been clocked from that too. If you're spending any sort of money on the car, I think it's worth spending the cash getting RAC or AA or a garage you know to check it out, will cost a couple of hundred quid but could save you a pile of hassle
MOT Question
Is the engine management light staying on an MOT failure with the recent changes to the inspection?
Yes it is.
Mine passed with it on in December
'Leeks
Cheers
...think there was changes came in some time in the new year TYP
Quote from: theskull1 on August 05, 2014, 11:51:18 AM
'Leeks
Cheers
...think there was changes came in some time in the new year TYP
Cheers skull - must see about getting it off before the test this year
Can anyone recommend a garage in Belfast that would service Audi and wont charge an arm and a leg?
Quote from: Orior on August 05, 2014, 12:03:07 PM
Can anyone recommend a garage in Belfast that would service Audi and wont charge an arm and a leg?
Walsh Motors, 24 Andersonstown Park S, Belfast, County Antrim BT11 8FR
028 9062 7574.
I've used them a few times and they were good, just not handy for my work if dropping the car off.
Quote from: take_yer_points on August 05, 2014, 11:52:27 AM
Quote from: theskull1 on August 05, 2014, 11:51:18 AM
'Leeks
Cheers
...think there was changes came in some time in the new year TYP
Cheers skull - must see about getting it off before the test this year
An EML is not an MOT failure. It is a common belief that it is but the car will pass with it on. It will not pass with ABS, ESP or airbag light on. Send her on ;)
Quote from: GJL on August 05, 2014, 09:51:13 PM
An EML is not an MOT failure. It is a common belief that it is but the car will pass with it on. It will not pass with ABS, ESP or airbag light on. Send her on ;)
Now you tell me :-\
After rushing home early from work and totally stripping & cleaning my EGR (including the solenoid) I flew up to my mechanic to clear the fault. Knew the EGR was going to be the problem seeing the amount of crud that came out of it. Cleared the fault ...happy days drove to the MOT centre without having time to get a power hose under her
The b^$t4rd failed me on a pitted brake pipe and another which wasnt clean enough for inspection ...... just my luck eh!
Just noticed today when I put my foot on the accelerator, I don't have the same power as before. I can also hear the engine revving (while just cruising as normal) as though I have my foot to the floor.
Thoughts anyone?
Quote from: BennyCake on August 06, 2014, 12:24:09 AM
Just noticed today when I put my foot on the accelerator, I don't have the same power as before. I can also hear the engine revving (while just cruising as normal) as though I have my foot to the floor.
Thoughts anyone?
If she is in neutral, this is perfectly normal.
Quote from: Ball Hopper on August 06, 2014, 12:31:41 AM
Quote from: BennyCake on August 06, 2014, 12:24:09 AM
Just noticed today when I put my foot on the accelerator, I don't have the same power as before. I can also hear the engine revving (while just cruising as normal) as though I have my foot to the floor.
Thoughts anyone?
If she is in neutral, this is perfectly normal.
Nope, it happens when shifting up through the gears. From 3rd in particular
For the first part I would have said a slipping clutch as same happened me in am old car years ago. Dunno though.
Quote from: theskull1 on August 06, 2014, 12:03:13 AM
Quote from: GJL on August 05, 2014, 09:51:13 PM
An EML is not an MOT failure. It is a common belief that it is but the car will pass with it on. It will not pass with ABS, ESP or airbag light on. Send her on ;)
Now you tell me :-\
After rushing home early from work and totally stripping & cleaning my EGR (including the solenoid) I flew up to my mechanic to clear the fault. Knew the EGR was going to be the problem seeing the amount of crud that came out of it. Cleared the fault ...happy days drove to the MOT centre without having time to get a power hose under her
The b^$t4rd failed me on a pitted brake pipe and another which wasnt clean enough for inspection ...... just my luck eh!
i got my car through MOT in May with the emissions engine management light on, had to get the airbag one reset before I went though!
Quote from: BennyCake on August 06, 2014, 12:24:09 AM
Just noticed today when I put my foot on the accelerator, I don't have the same power as before. I can also hear the engine revving (while just cruising as normal) as though I have my foot to the floor.
Thoughts anyone?
Mine was doing that few weeks back as in not giving any power etc when trying to move up the gears even when had my foot to the floor on accelerator. There was a whirring noise from my engine. It was the turbo gone.
Quote from: tyrone girl on August 06, 2014, 02:26:26 PM
Quote from: BennyCake on August 06, 2014, 12:24:09 AM
Just noticed today when I put my foot on the accelerator, I don't have the same power as before. I can also hear the engine revving (while just cruising as normal) as though I have my foot to the floor.
Thoughts anyone?
Mine was doing that few weeks back as in not giving any power etc when trying to move up the gears even when had my foot to the floor on accelerator. There was a whirring noise from my engine. It was the turbo gone.
Sounds familiar. What was the damage/cost/result?
Quote from: BennyCake on August 06, 2014, 01:15:40 AM
Quote from: Ball Hopper on August 06, 2014, 12:31:41 AM
Quote from: BennyCake on August 06, 2014, 12:24:09 AM
Just noticed today when I put my foot on the accelerator, I don't have the same power as before. I can also hear the engine revving (while just cruising as normal) as though I have my foot to the floor.
Thoughts anyone?
If she is in neutral, this is perfectly normal.
Nope, it happens when shifting up through the gears. From 3rd in particular
Def sounds like your clutch is goosed.
Quote from: Last Man on August 06, 2014, 06:16:14 PM
Quote from: BennyCake on August 06, 2014, 01:15:40 AM
Quote from: Ball Hopper on August 06, 2014, 12:31:41 AM
Quote from: BennyCake on August 06, 2014, 12:24:09 AM
Just noticed today when I put my foot on the accelerator, I don't have the same power as before. I can also hear the engine revving (while just cruising as normal) as though I have my foot to the floor.
Thoughts anyone?
If she is in neutral, this is perfectly normal.
Nope, it happens when shifting up through the gears. From 3rd in particular
Def sounds like your clutch is goosed.
Sounds like a slipping clutch. What type of car is it and what mileage? If it has a dual mass flywheel you might need it too. Could run into right money😕
The clutch was gone on mine also from December and the DMF i never got it fixed until last week and drove away at it.
I never had any noise from my engine or any problem accelerating whilst my clutch and dmf was gone.
Only experienced the loss of power/whirring noise from engine when the Turbo was gone. Ended up getting all fixed at the one time. Got second hand turbo for £150/190 i cant remember now.
The clutch was jammed and hanging by a thread also but alls fixed now thank god
Quote from: tyrone girl on August 07, 2014, 09:52:49 AM
The clutch was gone on mine also from December and the DMF i never got it fixed until last week and drove away at it.
I never had any noise from my engine or any problem accelerating whilst my clutch and dmf was gone.
Only experienced the loss of power/whirring noise from engine when the Turbo was gone. Ended up getting all fixed at the one time. Got second hand turbo for £150/190 i cant remember now.
The clutch was jammed and hanging by a thread also but alls fixed now thank god
Other than that the car was running lovely ;)
Haha if u had of heard it. Was rattling like feck and thought it would fall apart some day.
Going great now alls fixed its like a new car. Not forgetting 4 bald tyres needed replaced and all oils needed changed and brake pads, brake callipers and wishbone or something LOL so u can imagine the shape of it before :-[ :o :o
Quote from: tyrone girl on August 07, 2014, 11:35:33 AM
Haha if u had of heard it. Was rattling like feck and thought it would fall apart some day.
Going great now alls fixed its like a new car. Not forgetting 4 bald tyres needed replaced and all oils needed changed and brake pads, brake callipers and wishbone or something LOL so u can imagine the shape of it before :-[ :o :o
Tell you what you do TG. Drive that car out to Dunmoyle forest. Throw a jar a petrol over the seats and lit it. Walk away.
Quote from: tyrone girl on August 07, 2014, 11:35:33 AM
Haha if u had of heard it. Was rattling like feck and thought it would fall apart some day.
Going great now alls fixed its like a new car. Not forgetting 4 bald tyres needed replaced and all oils needed changed and brake pads, brake callipers and wishbone or something LOL so u can imagine the shape of it before :-[ :o :o
The next time you are heading out for a drive , let us all know and we can stay off the roads
Quote from: blewuporstuffed on August 07, 2014, 11:42:52 AM
Quote from: tyrone girl on August 07, 2014, 11:35:33 AM
Haha if u had of heard it. Was rattling like feck and thought it would fall apart some day.
Going great now alls fixed its like a new car. Not forgetting 4 bald tyres needed replaced and all oils needed changed and brake pads, brake callipers and wishbone or something LOL so u can imagine the shape of it before :-[ :o :o
The next time you are heading out for a drive , let us all know and we can stay off the roads
Probably wouldn't matter the state of the car, she could be driving a brand new BMW 5 series and I still wouldn't want to be within a 30 mile radius if she was driving on the road.
Guys chill out the cars had everything fixed now and its in great shape. Driving like a new car ;D ;D
It actually isnt that was gonna be my next question. Since it came back from mechanic the radio now says CODE wtf does that mean
No ffs its driving like a dream now im serious. Plenty of years left in it.
Quote from: Under Lights on August 07, 2014, 12:35:06 PM
Quote from: tyrone girl on August 07, 2014, 12:18:01 PM
It actually isnt that was gonna be my next question. Since it came back from mechanic the radio now says CODE wtf does that mean
Sounds like you need the decoding code for your radio.
Just on radios, does any one know where could get a amplifying unit for a radio been told that is why it is picking up any stations?
Quote from: NAG1 on August 07, 2014, 12:54:43 PM
Quote from: Under Lights on August 07, 2014, 12:35:06 PM
Quote from: tyrone girl on August 07, 2014, 12:18:01 PM
It actually isnt that was gonna be my next question. Since it came back from mechanic the radio now says CODE wtf does that mean
Sounds like you need the decoding code for your radio.
Just on radios, does any one know where could get a amplifying unit for a radio been told that is why it is picking up any stations?
Screwfix sells them for £57.99
Quote from: tyrone girl on August 07, 2014, 12:18:01 PM
It actually isnt that was gonna be my next question. Since it came back from mechanic the radio now says CODE wtf does that mean
The code should be in the service book folder in the glove box. If not you will need to get it de-coded. ;)
Got a new motor, quite a large saloon and hard to see where the bonnet and boot ends, so its hard to park. Car has no parking sensors. Has anyone tried any of these parking sensor kits you buy online? Any good?
Any man or woman that relys on parking sensors to park a car should be banned from the road for life. End off
Quote from: Under Lights on August 07, 2014, 12:58:46 PM
Quote from: NAG1 on August 07, 2014, 12:54:43 PM
Quote from: Under Lights on August 07, 2014, 12:35:06 PM
Quote from: tyrone girl on August 07, 2014, 12:18:01 PM
It actually isnt that was gonna be my next question. Since it came back from mechanic the radio now says CODE wtf does that mean
Sounds like you need the decoding code for your radio.
Just on radios, does any one know where could get a amplifying unit for a radio been told that is why it is picking up any stations?
Screwfix sells them for £57.99
Sorry am clueless when come to these types of things, are these generic and will work across a range of models or do they have to be purchased with make and model in mind, which is the impression I was given at the time!
Quote from: Under Lights on August 07, 2014, 12:35:06 PM
Quote from: tyrone girl on August 07, 2014, 12:18:01 PM
It actually isnt that was gonna be my next question. Since it came back from mechanic the radio now says CODE wtf does that mean
Sounds like you need the decoding code for your radio.
I found mine, a 4 digit code, on a sticker near the henge on the drivers door.
its a ford not dure if any other maker follow the same practice
From memory TG drives a Focus
So how many miles did you get out of your clutch TG? Heard that the focus was fond of chewing clutches?
Quote from: theskull1 on August 07, 2014, 02:35:00 PM
From memory TG drives a Focus
So how many miles did you get out of your clutch TG? Heard that the focus was fond of chewing clutches?
Would that not depend on a few things, i.e. type of driving you're doing, urban, commute etc, etc and how fond you were of riding the f**k out of the thing!
Quote from: theskull1 on August 07, 2014, 02:35:00 PM
From memory TG drives a Focus
So how many miles did you get out of your clutch TG? Heard that the focus was fond of chewing clutches?
I got about 80k from mine before the flywheel went.
Re: rattles/noises in the car. One way to sort them all out - turn up the radio!!
Quote from: johnneycool on August 07, 2014, 02:38:12 PM
Quote from: theskull1 on August 07, 2014, 02:35:00 PM
From memory TG drives a Focus
So how many miles did you get out of your clutch TG? Heard that the focus was fond of chewing clutches?
Would that not depend on a few things, i.e. type of driving you're doing, urban, commute etc, etc and how fond you were of riding the f**k out of the thing!
Of course...but I'd heard that the focus and the civic needed changing quicker than they should compared to other vehicles doing similar driving.
I got 150k out of my 05 vectra before changing. Fair few motorway miles in that
GJL, (or anyone else for that matter) do you do any respraying of cars or do you know how much it would cost? Its a Saab and the patch that needs resprayed following a knock is no bigger that the size of a big hand? Mid Ulster area
Quote from: billabong on August 15, 2014, 08:46:30 AM
GJL, (or anyone else for that matter) do you do any respraying of cars or do you know how much it would cost? Its a Saab and the patch that needs resprayed following a knock is no bigger that the size of a big hand? Mid Ulster area
I don't do it my self but my cousin does. The size does not matter as you need to do the whole panel at least and depending on colour you might need to blow into the next panel to get a good colour match. £150 - £200 for a professional job. I'm sure some boyo could do it cheaper but you very much get what you pay for in this game.
GJL, what's he called or where is he based? cheers
Quote from: billabong on August 15, 2014, 12:43:20 PM
GJL, what's he called or where is he based? cheers
PM sent :)
has any1 had any problems with mini one's? the alarm is going on when i try to start the car, the driver door is locked in and out so you cant use the door. any ideas? only bought 4 months ago and hurst arent standing over it
Quote from: general on September 01, 2014, 03:21:40 PM
has any1 had any problems with mini one's? the alarm is going on when i try to start the car, the driver door is locked in and out so you cant use the door. any ideas? only bought 4 months ago and hurst arent standing over it
Go straight to Hursts and tell them you know your rights. They MUST stand over any issues under the sale of goods act. Don't let them wriggle out of it.
Quote from: GJL on September 01, 2014, 03:24:20 PM
Quote from: general on September 01, 2014, 03:21:40 PM
has any1 had any problems with mini one's? the alarm is going on when i try to start the car, the driver door is locked in and out so you cant use the door. any ideas? only bought 4 months ago and hurst arent standing over it
Go straight to Hursts and tell them you know your rights. They MUST stand over any issues under the sale of goods act. Don't let them wriggle out of it.
they give us 6 months warranty. after 1 month we had to get the steering column replaced & 2 pads and now they are saying if its a wiring issue they aren't standing over it. i cant see it being anything but a wiring issue.
Quote from: general on September 01, 2014, 03:50:11 PM
Quote from: GJL on September 01, 2014, 03:24:20 PM
Quote from: general on September 01, 2014, 03:21:40 PM
has any1 had any problems with mini one's? the alarm is going on when i try to start the car, the driver door is locked in and out so you cant use the door. any ideas? only bought 4 months ago and hurst arent standing over it
Go straight to Hursts and tell them you know your rights. They MUST stand over any issues under the sale of goods act. Don't let them wriggle out of it.
they give us 6 months warranty. after 1 month we had to get the steering column replaced & 2 pads and now they are saying if its a wiring issue they aren't standing over it. i cant see it being anything but a wiring issue.
It matters not if it is a wiring issue they MUST stand over it. Mention Trading Standards to them and watch them jump!
I cannot get my front wheel off my toyota to change it - i have the nuts off, I have it up but the thing won't budge - any clues?
Tap of the sledge will sort that problem out.
Tried that to no avail! May take it to a garage in the morning.
have an electrical problem with my pickup.... was driving yesterday and the car-horn went on and didn't stop. Had to pull over and disconnect it and then pull the fuse. The fuse isn't damaged at all and I went through all of them and they are all fine.
Dealership job or any advice on how to sort it? Right now I'm happy enough driving without....
Quote from: Zip Code on September 02, 2014, 05:31:03 PM
Tried that to no avail! May take it to a garage in the morning.
You need to try again. The alloy reacts to the steel hub and sticks. Seen it a thousand times. A few more good solid thumps should sort it., We apply copper grease to prevent this happening.
Quote from: The Iceman on September 02, 2014, 05:52:09 PM
have an electrical problem with my pickup.... was driving yesterday and the car-horn went on and didn't stop. Had to pull over and disconnect it and then pull the fuse. The fuse isn't damaged at all and I went through all of them and they are all fine.
Dealership job or any advice on how to sort it? Right now I'm happy enough driving without....
Has to be something to do with the steering wheel. That is the switch. Check that a coin or something has not got in.
Quote from: GJL on September 02, 2014, 06:14:16 PM
Quote from: The Iceman on September 02, 2014, 05:52:09 PM
have an electrical problem with my pickup.... was driving yesterday and the car-horn went on and didn't stop. Had to pull over and disconnect it and then pull the fuse. The fuse isn't damaged at all and I went through all of them and they are all fine.
Dealership job or any advice on how to sort it? Right now I'm happy enough driving without....
Has to be something to do with the steering wheel. That is the switch. Check that a coin or something has not got in.
its definitely electrical - when I put the side lights on the honking stopped. when I removed a fuse on the same line there is a crackling if the lights are off.
I'll open up the steering wheel and see can i see anything.
Quote from: The Iceman on September 02, 2014, 06:26:54 PM
Quote from: GJL on September 02, 2014, 06:14:16 PM
Quote from: The Iceman on September 02, 2014, 05:52:09 PM
have an electrical problem with my pickup.... was driving yesterday and the car-horn went on and didn't stop. Had to pull over and disconnect it and then pull the fuse. The fuse isn't damaged at all and I went through all of them and they are all fine.
Dealership job or any advice on how to sort it? Right now I'm happy enough driving without....
Has to be something to do with the steering wheel. That is the switch. Check that a coin or something has not got in.
its definitely electrical - when I put the side lights on the honking stopped. when I removed a fuse on the same line there is a crackling if the lights are off.
I'll open up the steering wheel and see can i see anything.
Now that you mention that it may be alarm related. Electrical faults in a car can be a nightmare.
Quote from: GJL on September 02, 2014, 06:34:59 PM
Quote from: The Iceman on September 02, 2014, 06:26:54 PM
Quote from: GJL on September 02, 2014, 06:14:16 PM
Quote from: The Iceman on September 02, 2014, 05:52:09 PM
have an electrical problem with my pickup.... was driving yesterday and the car-horn went on and didn't stop. Had to pull over and disconnect it and then pull the fuse. The fuse isn't damaged at all and I went through all of them and they are all fine.
Dealership job or any advice on how to sort it? Right now I'm happy enough driving without....
Has to be something to do with the steering wheel. That is the switch. Check that a coin or something has not got in.
its definitely electrical - when I put the side lights on the honking stopped. when I removed a fuse on the same line there is a crackling if the lights are off.
I'll open up the steering wheel and see can i see anything.
Now that you mention that it may be alarm related. Electrical faults in a car can be a nightmare.
Has Magnetic Mary on the dash damaged something? jammed an old relay somewhere?
(http://originalbotanica.com/images/car%20mary.jpg)
Quote from: GJL on September 01, 2014, 04:51:18 PM
Quote from: general on September 01, 2014, 03:50:11 PM
Quote from: GJL on September 01, 2014, 03:24:20 PM
Quote from: general on September 01, 2014, 03:21:40 PM
has any1 had any problems with mini one's? the alarm is going on when i try to start the car, the driver door is locked in and out so you cant use the door. any ideas? only bought 4 months ago and hurst arent standing over it
Go straight to Hursts and tell them you know your rights. They MUST stand over any issues under the sale of goods act. Don't let them wriggle out of it.
they give us 6 months warranty. after 1 month we had to get the steering column replaced & 2 pads and now they are saying if its a wiring issue they aren't standing over it. i cant see it being anything but a wiring issue.
It matters not if it is a wiring issue they MUST stand over it. Mention Trading Standards to them and watch them jump!
I left my girlfriends mini to Hurst yesterday, I called approx 5pm this evening, they still haven't looked at it. they did mention though that if its an electric issue which i think it is then it isn't under warranty. they said they wont know what it is until they look at it. so if they look at it and it turns out to be electrical, they wont fix it on warranty and they will charge me for looking at it.
any advice here? I am fuming, Hurst are a disgrace. would I have anything to stand on if I got onto trading standards or the small claims court? we bought the car on the April with 6 months "warranty" which I'm now told only covers gearboxes, window motors, clutch etc. As if it isn't hard enough each day to get by
Have you got the warranty in writing? Or do they have it on their website?
its a warranty book. as far as i was concerned it covered major problems. its a used direct warranty, "5 star cover" supposedly.
Did you mention trading standards to them yet? Or the 'fit for purpose' law. I am telling you now... They MUST fix your car. It is the law. Do not roll over on this.
Quote from: GJL on September 04, 2014, 09:49:33 PM
Did you mention trading standards to them yet? Or the 'fit for purpose' law. I am telling you now... They MUST fix your car. It is the law. Do not roll over on this.
A-lot of time spent on the phone Friday and this morning regarding this, Hurst are by no means playing ball. Even after the conversation of the sale of goods act 1979 and them having to prove the fault wasn't there 4 months they are refusing to look and have said it will be over £700 to fix after parts and labor, + first inspection.
I have now drafted a formal letter, stating my rights and included some materials stating my rights, and will be sent via recorded delivery today giving them 5 days to respond. I've a feeling they are going to take this the whole way to the small claims. I just want the car fixed.
Absolute shambles, I will never buy a car from Hurst again and i wouldn't encourage any one else to. I bought my own car from Shelbourne and I've nothing but good things to say about them. The attitude of Hurst stinks
Quote from: general on September 08, 2014, 11:08:07 AM
Quote from: GJL on September 04, 2014, 09:49:33 PM
Did you mention trading standards to them yet? Or the 'fit for purpose' law. I am telling you now... They MUST fix your car. It is the law. Do not roll over on this.
A-lot of time spent on the phone Friday and this morning regarding this, Hurst are by no means playing ball. Even after the conversation of the sale of goods act 1979 and them having to prove the fault wasn't there 4 months they are refusing to look and have said it will be over £700 to fix after parts and labor, + first inspection.
I have now drafted a formal letter, stating my rights and included some materials stating my rights, and will be sent via recorded delivery today giving them 5 days to respond. I've a feeling they are going to take this the whole way to the small claims. I just want the car fixed.
Absolute shambles, I will never buy a car from Hurst again and i wouldn't encourage any one else to. I bought my own car from Shelbourne and I've nothing but good things to say about them. The attitude of Hurst stinks
I don't know how it goes up there, but down here the threat of Joe Duffy seems to work in cases like this. I abhor the setup that allows his ilk to dictate agendas all across the public arena but in this case, those bastards would seem to be asking for it.
It's Nolan up there, I think?
Quote from: general on September 08, 2014, 11:08:07 AM
Quote from: GJL on September 04, 2014, 09:49:33 PM
Did you mention trading standards to them yet? Or the 'fit for purpose' law. I am telling you now... They MUST fix your car. It is the law. Do not roll over on this.
A-lot of time spent on the phone Friday and this morning regarding this, Hurst are by no means playing ball. Even after the conversation of the sale of goods act 1979 and them having to prove the fault wasn't there 4 months they are refusing to look and have said it will be over £700 to fix after parts and labor, + first inspection.
I have now drafted a formal letter, stating my rights and included some materials stating my rights, and will be sent via recorded delivery today giving them 5 days to respond. I've a feeling they are going to take this the whole way to the small claims. I just want the car fixed.
Absolute shambles, I will never buy a car from Hurst again and i wouldn't encourage any one else to. I bought my own car from Shelbourne and I've nothing but good things to say about them. The attitude of Hurst stinks
If it goes to court you will win hands down. Don't back down.
Quote from: GJL on September 08, 2014, 12:45:42 PM
Quote from: general on September 08, 2014, 11:08:07 AM
Quote from: GJL on September 04, 2014, 09:49:33 PM
Did you mention trading standards to them yet? Or the 'fit for purpose' law. I am telling you now... They MUST fix your car. It is the law. Do not roll over on this.
A-lot of time spent on the phone Friday and this morning regarding this, Hurst are by no means playing ball. Even after the conversation of the sale of goods act 1979 and them having to prove the fault wasn't there 4 months they are refusing to look and have said it will be over £700 to fix after parts and labor, + first inspection.
I have now drafted a formal letter, stating my rights and included some materials stating my rights, and will be sent via recorded delivery today giving them 5 days to respond. I've a feeling they are going to take this the whole way to the small claims. I just want the car fixed.
Absolute shambles, I will never buy a car from Hurst again and i wouldn't encourage any one else to. I bought my own car from Shelbourne and I've nothing but good things to say about them. The attitude of Hurst stinks
If it goes to court you will win hands down. Don't back down.
Any progress on this?
The car was at Hurst for 2 weeks, maybe more. Got it back on Saturday, drove home, all good. Got into it 30 mins later and it refused to start and electrics going mental again. Alarm going off, engine immobilized. They replaced door handle, door latch and wiring however they couldn't do that right, they left the lock on the driver door missing the black covering so its not been put back together properly. I think the problem is that they cant find the fault and don't know how. They don't have a mini dealership and refuse to send it to someone like Bavarian to get the issue highlighted.
Called Hurst Monday morning at 8 am, got my first kind of apology about a month too late. Second official complaint sent down on Tuesday morning with the car - didn't get a reply to the first, although they began to work on the car when they received the first so i took that as an acceptance of the letter.
Nothing but a hassle, I use my car to get into work locally and the girlfriend needs hers to commute. I'm without a car until the other is fixed. No offer of a courtesy car. I have stated my rights with the sale of goods act etc. They have accepted that it will be fixed at their cost. they just seem to be taking their time on purpose.
The car wont be leaving again until its fully fixed, I've also mentioned I would be contacting Nolan so they seem to have a rocket up their arse about it now. I've taken advice from Consumer Line, and trading standards, so if the issue is not fixed then I will be requesting a) replacement of the car or b) full/partial refund
Not so nice but at least now they realise they won't walk over you. Hope it works out soon.
Fair play GJL, one of the most useful threads on the board!
1.4 Tdi Skoda Fabia, 2010, glow plug light has started to flash. Any ideas if this will be an expensive one to repair?
Believe it or not - this can be a warning that your brake lights aren't working right!! :o
Check your brake lights are working, for me it meant changing the switch down at the brake pedal - bought it off ebay for ~£20 and replaced it myself. ( this was on a VW golf but prob the same for skoda)
'How to' posted here;
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1158315-DIY-Installing-a-new-brake-light-switch-(without-breaking-it!) (http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1158315-DIY-Installing-a-new-brake-light-switch-(without-breaking-it!))
Quote from: offtheground on September 24, 2014, 05:03:24 PM
Believe it or not - this can be a warning that your brake lights aren't working right!! :o
Check your brake lights are working, for me it meant changing the switch down at the brake pedal - bought it off ebay for ~£20 and replaced it myself. ( this was on a VW golf but prob the same for skoda)
'How to' posted here;
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1158315-DIY-Installing-a-new-brake-light-switch-(without-breaking-it!) (http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1158315-DIY-Installing-a-new-brake-light-switch-(without-breaking-it!))
Just checked the brake lights. only the light in the back window is work, other two are not! Genius man!
Is it worth changing the bulbs first before attempting the brake light switch?
Also is there a fine / points if caught ?
Update bulbs are fine, looks like it could be the switch or glow plugs! Grrrr >:(
Quote from: pullhard on September 24, 2014, 05:59:05 PM
Quote from: offtheground on September 24, 2014, 05:03:24 PM
Believe it or not - this can be a warning that your brake lights aren't working right!! :o
Check your brake lights are working, for me it meant changing the switch down at the brake pedal - bought it off ebay for ~£20 and replaced it myself. ( this was on a VW golf but prob the same for skoda)
'How to' posted here;
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1158315-DIY-Installing-a-new-brake-light-switch-(without-breaking-it!) (http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1158315-DIY-Installing-a-new-brake-light-switch-(without-breaking-it!))
Just checked the brake lights. only the light in the back window is work, other two are not! Genius man!
Is it worth changing the bulbs first before attempting the brake light switch?
Also is there a fine / points if caught ?
Update bulbs are fine, looks like it could be the switch or glow plugs! Grrrr >:(
Get it plugged in to see what trouble codes come up. I've seen this flash on similar year golfs which turned out to be EGR Valve faulty. If you are near Ballygawley I'll plug in in for free.
Need some help...I have a Toyota Rav 4 95 model, wee 2 litre petrol. Anyhow shes served me well until lately the key once in the ignition was sticking and getting harder and harder to start due to the ignition barrel getting sticky. Tried WD40 in the ignition to no avail so went out and got a 2nd hand ignition barrel with key from the scapyard. Changed the ignition barrels over but now she wont start...what do i need to do? Must be due to the imbolizer and the old key being chipped whats my best way round it? Can you change the new barrel to suit the old key? Cut a new key and reprogramme it? Is this possible? Any help appreciated!!
Not 100% sure that a 95 car would have a chipped key, but I could be wrong. You need to put the head of the old key on to the blade of the new key, should be a DIY job.
Guys help needed again. Christ my heads about to go with that car of mine!! Anyway after getting all done last month thinking this is great it was driving like a new car suddenly this noise has appeared. Now it only appeared when the car was started and lasted for about half a minute. Was like a grinding rattling from drivers side of the engine. Then it stopped. There was no issue whatsoever with the driving of the car it was driving fine and no noise yet every time i started it the noise would be there. I have slightly noticed that the steering is more rigid but nothing major to be honest.
Anyway since yesterday the noise is coming when im driving, not a grinding but more like a whistling/whirring which comes intermittently when im driving and then stops. Very hard to explain but there then comes a noise as if something has clicked into place and it drives as normal. I did notice this morning that the noise came every time i put the heating on.
Sorry for the essay but im at end of my tether with it at the minute as spent so much last month getting sorted. Anyone have any ideas?
Sounds like you need to turn up your radio a bit.
(http://askandyaboutclothes.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/HatTipCartoon.jpg)
Not helpful thanks!
Quote from: tyrone girl on September 26, 2014, 09:27:52 AM
Guys help needed again. Christ my heads about to go with that car of mine!! Anyway after getting all done last month thinking this is great it was driving like a new car suddenly this noise has appeared. Now it only appeared when the car was started and lasted for about half a minute. Was like a grinding rattling from drivers side of the engine. Then it stopped. There was no issue whatsoever with the driving of the car it was driving fine and no noise yet every time i started it the noise would be there. I have slightly noticed that the steering is more rigid but nothing major to be honest.
Anyway since yesterday the noise is coming when im driving, not a grinding but more like a whistling/whirring which comes intermittently when im driving and then stops. Very hard to explain but there then comes a noise as if something has clicked into place and it drives as normal. I did notice this morning that the noise came every time i put the heating on.
Sorry for the essay but im at end of my tether with it at the minute as spent so much last month getting sorted. Anyone have any ideas?
Something to do with the aux belt I suspect. It runs the alternator and power steering pump. You mentioned the steering feeling different and it changed also when you turned on the heating (put and electrical load on the alternator). Possible belt or belt tensioner problem. Get it looked at before it breaks. Should not be an expensive issue.
Thanks very much i appreciate it :)
GJL..
I've a Audi A4 Avant.
Yesterday when I went to put the window down there was a grinding sound and the window only went down about half an inch.
Now it won't go up or down but I can hear the motor trying to work when I press the button.
Is it possible the glass has just come off its track or does it sound like the motor is fcuked?
How hard is it to take the inside door panel off of this type of car so I can have a look? I'm left now with the window down about an inch which is annoying.
Quote from: laoislad on October 05, 2014, 06:24:53 PM
GJL..
I've a Audi A4 Avant.
Yesterday when I went to put the window down there was a grinding sound and the window only went down about half an inch.
Now it won't go up or down but I can hear the motor trying to work when I press the button.
Is it possible the glass has just come off its track or does it sound like the motor is fcuked?
How hard is it to take the inside door panel off of this type of car so I can have a look? I'm left now with the window down about an inch which is annoying.
GJL will no doubt give you the full low down, but it sounds like the metal cable is frayed and could be wound around the regulator spindle. I had this problem with a Superb recently and managed to get the panel off and trimmed away the frayed strands - this was only a temporary measure but as I was getting rid of the car it was grand.
It wasn't that tough to get the panel off (with the aid of a decent on line guide). To replace it on the superb would involve buying an aluminium panel with the regulator attached. About 100-120 I reckon.
Quote from: StephenC on October 05, 2014, 06:32:24 PM
Quote from: laoislad on October 05, 2014, 06:24:53 PM
GJL..
I've a Audi A4 Avant.
Yesterday when I went to put the window down there was a grinding sound and the window only went down about half an inch.
Now it won't go up or down but I can hear the motor trying to work when I press the button.
Is it possible the glass has just come off its track or does it sound like the motor is fcuked?
How hard is it to take the inside door panel off of this type of car so I can have a look? I'm left now with the window down about an inch which is annoying.
GJL will no doubt give you the full low down, but it sounds like the metal cable is frayed and could be wound around the regulator spindle. I had this problem with a Superb recently and managed to get the panel off and trimmed away the frayed strands - this was only a temporary measure but as I was getting rid of the car it was grand.
It wasn't that tough to get the panel off (with the aid of a decent on line guide). To replace it on the superb would involve buying an aluminium panel with the regulator attached. About 100-120 I reckon.
Nail on the head there. Broken wire in the regulator. Common enough failure. We have them often enough.
Quote from: GJL on October 05, 2014, 06:39:43 PM
Quote from: StephenC on October 05, 2014, 06:32:24 PM
Quote from: laoislad on October 05, 2014, 06:24:53 PM
GJL..
I've a Audi A4 Avant.
Yesterday when I went to put the window down there was a grinding sound and the window only went down about half an inch.
Now it won't go up or down but I can hear the motor trying to work when I press the button.
Is it possible the glass has just come off its track or does it sound like the motor is fcuked?
How hard is it to take the inside door panel off of this type of car so I can have a look? I'm left now with the window down about an inch which is annoying.
GJL will no doubt give you the full low down, but it sounds like the metal cable is frayed and could be wound around the regulator spindle. I had this problem with a Superb recently and managed to get the panel off and trimmed away the frayed strands - this was only a temporary measure but as I was getting rid of the car it was grand.
It wasn't that tough to get the panel off (with the aid of a decent on line guide). To replace it on the superb would involve buying an aluminium panel with the regulator attached. About 100-120 I reckon.
Nail on the head there. Broken wire in the regulator. Common enough failure. We have them often enough.
Thanks GJL and StephenC.
I'll try take the panel off tomorrow and have a look.
Anyway of joining the cable ? I've got cable crimps and a crimper that I use for joining heavy copper electric cable I wonder would it work.
Quote from: laoislad on October 05, 2014, 06:45:16 PM
Quote from: GJL on October 05, 2014, 06:39:43 PM
Quote from: StephenC on October 05, 2014, 06:32:24 PM
Quote from: laoislad on October 05, 2014, 06:24:53 PM
GJL..
I've a Audi A4 Avant.
Yesterday when I went to put the window down there was a grinding sound and the window only went down about half an inch.
Now it won't go up or down but I can hear the motor trying to work when I press the button.
Is it possible the glass has just come off its track or does it sound like the motor is fcuked?
How hard is it to take the inside door panel off of this type of car so I can have a look? I'm left now with the window down about an inch which is annoying.
GJL will no doubt give you the full low down, but it sounds like the metal cable is frayed and could be wound around the regulator spindle. I had this problem with a Superb recently and managed to get the panel off and trimmed away the frayed strands - this was only a temporary measure but as I was getting rid of the car it was grand.
It wasn't that tough to get the panel off (with the aid of a decent on line guide). To replace it on the superb would involve buying an aluminium panel with the regulator attached. About 100-120 I reckon.
Nail on the head there. Broken wire in the regulator. Common enough failure. We have them often enough.
Thanks GJL and StephenC.
I'll try take the panel off tomorrow and have a look.
Anyway of joining the cable ? I've got cable crimps and a crimper that I use for joining heavy copper electric cable I wonder would it work.
Sorry LL it won't work. The wire has to wind tightly around a few runner wheels and the motor wheel so joint will not work. New regulator the only proper fix. If you open the door and use a hand either side of the glass you should be able to pull the window up.
Quote from: GJL on October 05, 2014, 06:52:58 PM
Quote from: laoislad on October 05, 2014, 06:45:16 PM
Quote from: GJL on October 05, 2014, 06:39:43 PM
Quote from: StephenC on October 05, 2014, 06:32:24 PM
Quote from: laoislad on October 05, 2014, 06:24:53 PM
GJL..
I've a Audi A4 Avant.
Yesterday when I went to put the window down there was a grinding sound and the window only went down about half an inch.
Now it won't go up or down but I can hear the motor trying to work when I press the button.
Is it possible the glass has just come off its track or does it sound like the motor is fcuked?
How hard is it to take the inside door panel off of this type of car so I can have a look? I'm left now with the window down about an inch which is annoying.
GJL will no doubt give you the full low down, but it sounds like the metal cable is frayed and could be wound around the regulator spindle. I had this problem with a Superb recently and managed to get the panel off and trimmed away the frayed strands - this was only a temporary measure but as I was getting rid of the car it was grand.
It wasn't that tough to get the panel off (with the aid of a decent on line guide). To replace it on the superb would involve buying an aluminium panel with the regulator attached. About 100-120 I reckon.
Nail on the head there. Broken wire in the regulator. Common enough failure. We have them often enough.
Thanks GJL and StephenC.
I'll try take the panel off tomorrow and have a look.
Anyway of joining the cable ? I've got cable crimps and a crimper that I use for joining heavy copper electric cable I wonder would it work.
Sorry LL it won't work. The wire has to wind tightly around a few runner wheels and the motor wheel so joint will not work. New regulator the only proper fix. If you open the door and use a hand either side of the glass you should be able to pull the window up.
Thanks GJL. I wonder could I pick up a second hand regulator.? I'm sure I'd be able change it myself anyway?
I found a video on YouTube of a guy changing one on a 04 Audi A4,mine is the next model up so maybe it wouldn't be that much different on a newer model.
Not exactly on topic but I'm looking to buy a cheap secondhand car. However, I know little or nothing about cars other than how to keep them between the ditches, most of the time anyway! I'm living in Britain so there's plenty of choice but I really want to get a car for less than £1000 that won't pack up on me within 3 months or refuse to start on a winter morning. Any advice on the make of car or what I should look out for if buying off a private seller so I can be confident it's a reasonable car? I intend on upgrading to a decent car next May or June but need something to last me till then. Thanks in advance for any advice.
Zulu, first thing to do would be a HPI check. https://www.hpicheck.com/.
Also, you live in Scotland don't ya? Short hop and skip back home and GJL might be able to sort you out.
Hi, any one any idea how much ball joint rubbers are for a 2006 Mazda 6 i was told they can be quite expensive.
Quote from: general on September 24, 2014, 10:49:21 AM
The car was at Hurst for 2 weeks, maybe more. Got it back on Saturday, drove home, all good. Got into it 30 mins later and it refused to start and electrics going mental again. Alarm going off, engine immobilized. They replaced door handle, door latch and wiring however they couldn't do that right, they left the lock on the driver door missing the black covering so its not been put back together properly. I think the problem is that they cant find the fault and don't know how. They don't have a mini dealership and refuse to send it to someone like Bavarian to get the issue highlighted.
Called Hurst Monday morning at 8 am, got my first kind of apology about a month too late. Second official complaint sent down on Tuesday morning with the car - didn't get a reply to the first, although they began to work on the car when they received the first so i took that as an acceptance of the letter.
Nothing but a hassle, I use my car to get into work locally and the girlfriend needs hers to commute. I'm without a car until the other is fixed. No offer of a courtesy car. I have stated my rights with the sale of goods act etc. They have accepted that it will be fixed at their cost. they just seem to be taking their time on purpose.
The car wont be leaving again until its fully fixed, I've also mentioned I would be contacting Nolan so they seem to have a rocket up their arse about it now. I've taken advice from Consumer Line, and trading standards, so if the issue is not fixed then I will be requesting a) replacement of the car or b) full/partial refund
After this fiasco,
i collected the car on Saturday Morning, alot of work done to the car, new wiring in the doors, new door latches both doors, new handles both doors, new shock on RDS, 2 x new break disks, 2 x new runflat tyres, full tank of petrol and the car put through MOT.
The 2 complaint letters i wrote really got them moving and put tyres etc on the car as an apology. Never should went that far. I've never had that bad service before and certainly wont be going near hurst again. a warning for everyone. it took from the last week in august until 11th October to get this sorted.
thanks GJL for the advice
Quote from: general on October 14, 2014, 10:11:40 AM
Quote from: general on September 24, 2014, 10:49:21 AM
The car was at Hurst for 2 weeks, maybe more. Got it back on Saturday, drove home, all good. Got into it 30 mins later and it refused to start and electrics going mental again. Alarm going off, engine immobilized. They replaced door handle, door latch and wiring however they couldn't do that right, they left the lock on the driver door missing the black covering so its not been put back together properly. I think the problem is that they cant find the fault and don't know how. They don't have a mini dealership and refuse to send it to someone like Bavarian to get the issue highlighted.
Called Hurst Monday morning at 8 am, got my first kind of apology about a month too late. Second official complaint sent down on Tuesday morning with the car - didn't get a reply to the first, although they began to work on the car when they received the first so i took that as an acceptance of the letter.
Nothing but a hassle, I use my car to get into work locally and the girlfriend needs hers to commute. I'm without a car until the other is fixed. No offer of a courtesy car. I have stated my rights with the sale of goods act etc. They have accepted that it will be fixed at their cost. they just seem to be taking their time on purpose.
The car wont be leaving again until its fully fixed, I've also mentioned I would be contacting Nolan so they seem to have a rocket up their arse about it now. I've taken advice from Consumer Line, and trading standards, so if the issue is not fixed then I will be requesting a) replacement of the car or b) full/partial refund
After this fiasco,
i collected the car on Saturday Morning, alot of work done to the car, new wiring in the doors, new door latches both doors, new handles both doors, new shock on RDS, 2 x new break disks, 2 x new runflat tyres, full tank of petrol and the car put through MOT.
The 2 complaint letters i wrote really got them moving and put tyres etc on the car as an apology. Never should went that far. I've never had that bad service before and certainly wont be going near hurst again. a warning for everyone. it took from the last week in august until 11th October to get this sorted.
thanks GJL for the advice
Great news :) I knew you had them by the balls, all it needed was the right pressure applied.
What you should do now is sell the dam car. It sounds like it could be a bad one to keep.
Quote from: Hereiam on October 14, 2014, 12:52:45 PM
What you should do now is sell the dam car. It sounds like it could be a bad one to keep.
Do you have to disclose it's history?
Quote from: Denn Forever on October 14, 2014, 01:23:51 PM
Quote from: Hereiam on October 14, 2014, 12:52:45 PM
What you should do now is sell the dam car. It sounds like it could be a bad one to keep.
Do you have to disclose it's history?
Do ye feck ! There wouldnt be a car dealer left if that was the case
Some twit has bumped into my car and cracked my front bumper. Then drove off.
I'd like to replace it, as cheaply as possible. Where could i get an undamaged second handed bumper or new one?
I'll work out how to fit it afterwards.
Car 2010 Skoda Fabia red!
Quote from: pullhard on October 14, 2014, 06:25:40 PM
Some twit has bumped into my car and cracked my front bumper. Then drove off.
I'd like to replace it, as cheaply as possible. Where could i get an undamaged second handed bumper or new one?
I'll work out how to fit it afterwards.
Car 2010 Skoda Fabia red!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X2010+skoda+fabia+front+bumper&_nkw=2010+skoda+fabia+front+bumper&_sacat=0
Quote from: Agent Orange on October 14, 2014, 09:54:25 PM
Quote from: pullhard on October 14, 2014, 06:25:40 PM
Some twit has bumped into my car and cracked my front bumper. Then drove off.
I'd like to replace it, as cheaply as possible. Where could i get an undamaged second handed bumper or new one?
I'll work out how to fit it afterwards.
Car 2010 Skoda Fabia red!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X2010+skoda+fabia+front+bumper&_nkw=2010+skoda+fabia+front+bumper&_sacat=0
Ring a few breakers, Quigg Bros in Rasharkin specialize in all vw/audi/skoda etc.
Cheers lads, I'm based Liverpool way. Some price for the bumper! disappointing that it doesn't include grilles and blanks
Got an 05 diesel Megane, and just this morning I have noticed a rattle, almost like a loud vibration coming from the engine which increases when revving. Any suggestions what this might be?
Could be a wheel bearing - to test find a straight stretch of road with no other cars about, drive the car till ye hear the rattle then knock the engine off and listen for the noise coming from the wheels.
Then again it could be 1 of 40 other things - get it to a mechanic
Quote from: bogball88 on October 16, 2014, 09:49:19 AM
Got an 05 diesel Megane, and just this morning I have noticed a rattle, almost like a loud vibration coming from the engine which increases when revving. Any suggestions what this might be?
Is the rattle there when stationary? Bottom pully come loose?
Quote from: GJL on October 16, 2014, 11:19:00 AM
Quote from: bogball88 on October 16, 2014, 09:49:19 AM
Got an 05 diesel Megane, and just this morning I have noticed a rattle, almost like a loud vibration coming from the engine which increases when revving. Any suggestions what this might be?
Is the rattle there when stationary? Bottom pully come loose?
Can just about make it out when stationary, but gets audibly louder when you rev it up. Drove it about 16 miles to work slowly after I noticed it
Was looking at a 2011 C Class Mercedes automatic at the weekend there. Has anyone any experience of them? I have never owned an Automatic, would I be buying trouble or should I get 5-6 years of trouble free motoring before it gives bother?
one of the family has a E270 merc, auto.
Pure luxury to drive, even after 10 years and 170K on the clock.
Never any hassle with gearbox
Quote from: LeoMc on October 20, 2014, 09:10:28 AM
Was looking at a 2011 C Class Mercedes automatic at the weekend there. Has anyone any experience of them? I have never owned an Automatic, would I be buying trouble or should I get 5-6 years of trouble free motoring before it gives bother?
Not a bad car but would rate the Audi A4 auto a much better car. Mercedes are not the car they used to be.
Cheers, wasn't particularly looking for an Auto but that the majority of Mercedes seem to be Auto.
Was just surprised at how much they had come down in price, not much more that the cost of an 18 month old Golf.
Of the recent cars out there, is there any stand out diesel engine & drive train out there at the minute GJL? i.e built to last (200k miles+) and not give loads of (expensive) problems over its lifetime even with proper use and maintenance ? Seems they all have weak points, some more than others I'm sure.
Quote from: theskull1 on October 20, 2014, 12:07:18 PM
Of the recent cars out there, is there any stand out diesel engine & drive train out there at the minute GJL? i.e built to last (200k miles+) and not give loads of (expensive) problems over its lifetime even with proper use and maintenance ? Seems they all have weak points, some more than others I'm sure.
I would say VW/Audi/Skoda is the best. There are none without fault. The key is regular servicing and try to use good fuel. Too many people are putting servicing on the long finger. ''Ah sure its going fine, I'll leave it another while''. This is where the damage is done.
A light came up on the dash the other day saying the bonnet is open even though it isn't and the electric windows stopped working on the same day. Any ideas? Could the same thing have caused both to happen? I'm guessing it's a sensor or something in the bonnet but not a clue why the windows stopped working.
My engine light came on and I brought it to a friend. He put it on the machine and it's was saying the diesel particulate filter. Would a bottle of particulate regenerator in the diesel sort this out or would I need to do more?
Quote from: supersarsfields on October 20, 2014, 02:26:08 PM
My engine light came on and I brought it to a friend. He put it on the machine and it's was saying the diesel particulate filter. Would a bottle of particulate regenerator in the diesel sort this out or would I need to do more?
It is worth a try but usually it needs more than that. What type of car?
Quote from: andoireabu on October 20, 2014, 01:50:57 PM
A light came up on the dash the other day saying the bonnet is open even though it isn't and the electric windows stopped working on the same day. Any ideas? Could the same thing have caused both to happen? I'm guessing it's a sensor or something in the bonnet but not a clue why the windows stopped working.
The fact that both happened on the same day would make me think it is related but with electrics you never know. Do the simple things first like check all fuses.
Quote from: GJL on October 20, 2014, 02:49:40 PM
Quote from: supersarsfields on October 20, 2014, 02:26:08 PM
My engine light came on and I brought it to a friend. He put it on the machine and it's was saying the diesel particulate filter. Would a bottle of particulate regenerator in the diesel sort this out or would I need to do more?
It is worth a try but usually it needs more than that. What type of car?
Ford Mondeo 2008.
GJL ... Missus has a 2010 Fabia 1.6TDI. Every time she switches on the rear wiper, it won't switch off until the ignition is switched off. It's designed to come on every time she puts the car in reverse so basically every time she reverses, she has to switch off the car to get the wiper to stop.
Any ideas before I throw it to the local garage?
Cheers.
Quote from: GJL on October 20, 2014, 02:49:40 PM
Quote from: supersarsfields on October 20, 2014, 02:26:08 PM
My engine light came on and I brought it to a friend. He put it on the machine and it's was saying the diesel particulate filter. Would a bottle of particulate regenerator in the diesel sort this out or would I need to do more?
It is worth a try but usually it needs more than that. What type of car?
Did you (or someone else) not say in an earlier post that the DPF can be regenerated by doing a motorway run in a relatively low gear increase exhaust heat to burn off soot particles.
I had breathing problems on and off for years on my vauxhall.
Combination of bad inlet manifold design, EGR sticking, DPF getting clogged up. Still never sure where the chicken are egg are in all this mix. :o
Stripping & cleaning the EGR every now and then would help but it always felt down on power, but not being in limp mode was better than nothing. Eventually got scundered and took the DPF off and put a few holes through the filter with a 900mm drill bit (didn't total drill out the DPF). Was always told you had to map out the DPF when cutting out the DPF as the sensors look for a pressure differential on either side of the filter but I appear to have gotten away with it. Long and short of it is it liberated the car. Have still had to clean the EGR the odd time but that no biggie
My car may behave differently to other makes, so I would do some investigations first
Quote from: StephenC on October 20, 2014, 05:19:35 PM
GJL ... Missus has a 2010 Fabia 1.6TDI. Every time she switches on the rear wiper, it won't switch off until the ignition is switched off. It's designed to come on every time she puts the car in reverse so basically every time she reverses, she has to switch off the car to get the wiper to stop.
Any ideas before I throw it to the local garage?
Cheers.
Worth checking the wiring to the tailgate, inside the rubber boot beside the tailgate hinge. My Mk4 golf dicks about when the boot is openned and closed.
Quote from: Tony Baloney on October 20, 2014, 05:20:44 PM
Quote from: GJL on October 20, 2014, 02:49:40 PM
Quote from: supersarsfields on October 20, 2014, 02:26:08 PM
My engine light came on and I brought it to a friend. He put it on the machine and it's was saying the diesel particulate filter. Would a bottle of particulate regenerator in the diesel sort this out or would I need to do more?
It is worth a try but usually it needs more than that. What type of car?
Did you (or someone else) not say in an earlier post that the DPF can be regenerated by doing a motorway run in a relatively low gear increase exhaust heat to burn off soot particles.
I'd a 2006 TDCi Mondeo with a bit of EGR, DPF problem and being down on power and a mechanic up in Lindsays Ford in Mallusk recommended a bit of a 4th gear revving next time I was on the M2 to do as you say.
I was a bit dubious of running it too long at high revs but there certainly was a lovely dark plume of soot out of it for a while.
It helped for a while, but needed a good manual cleaning of the EGR as well.
Anybody got the AA Parts and Recovery cover for £120 a year that covers you in the event of a breakdown as well as paying for any repairs up to £500?
Quote from: nrico2006 on October 28, 2014, 08:33:21 AM
Anybody got the AA Parts and Recovery cover for £120 a year that covers you in the event of a breakdown as well as paying for any repairs up to £500?
The recovery alone is costing me 120, that's for the wife as well though.
How much would you pay to replace a timing belt on a VW Eos 2.0 TDi? I have a price of £200 from a garage in Belfast that includes parts and labour, just wondering if it's good.
Quote from: Rois on October 28, 2014, 12:37:14 PM
How much would you pay to replace a timing belt on a VW Eos 2.0 TDi? I have a price of £200 from a garage in Belfast that includes parts and labour, just wondering if it's good.
Does that also include VAT?
Quote from: Rois on October 28, 2014, 12:37:14 PM
How much would you pay to replace a timing belt on a VW Eos 2.0 TDi? I have a price of £200 from a garage in Belfast that includes parts and labour, just wondering if it's good.
Independent garage Rois or is it a dealership?
QuoteAnybody got the AA Parts and Recovery cover for £120 a year that covers you in the event of a breakdown as well as paying for any repairs up to £500?
I have this. Clutch went on car a year ago but they wouldn't cover it as it was wear & tear
Quote from: WeeDonns on October 28, 2014, 01:37:10 PM
QuoteAnybody got the AA Parts and Recovery cover for £120 a year that covers you in the event of a breakdown as well as paying for any repairs up to £500?
I have this. Clutch went on car a year ago but they wouldn't cover it as it was wear & tear
They are correct. Would you ask them to replace your tyres when they are worn out?
Quote from: billabong on October 28, 2014, 01:36:23 PM
Quote from: Rois on October 28, 2014, 12:37:14 PM
How much would you pay to replace a timing belt on a VW Eos 2.0 TDi? I have a price of £200 from a garage in Belfast that includes parts and labour, just wondering if it's good.
Independent garage Rois or is it a dealership?
Independent garage in the Wild West. I assume it's inclusive of VAT as they said it was all-in.
Will it be a genuine VW belt Rois? And will the water pump be replaced as well...... which is recommended for a lot of timing belt changes such is the work involved?
Quote from: theskull1 on October 28, 2014, 02:44:24 PM
Will it be a genuine VW belt Rois? And will the water pump be replaced as well...... which is recommended for a lot of timing belt changes such is the work involved?
Water pump will definitely be replaced as he told me this, and it's a garage that says it specialises in VWs and Audis - though I don't know it from Adam to be honest so I'm not sure if it will be genuine VW.
Quote from: theskull1 on October 28, 2014, 02:44:24 PM
Will it be a genuine VW belt Rois? And will the water pump be replaced as well...... which is recommended for a lot of timing belt changes such is the work involved?
At that price I suspect it is just the belt. Non genuine belts are fine as long as they are a good make like Gates or the like. We change the water pump and timing pullys etc with every second belt. I don't think it is required with every belt.
What is the mileage interval between timing belts on a VW diesel?
Some 60000 and some 80000. I recommend 60000 every time and give it a full kit at the second belt.
Got my MOT coming up in a few days and the mechanic must have forgot to check the handbrake as it isn't (in my opinion) grabbing strong enough. Would this one issue be enough to fail the test or would a lot of the testers let it go as long as everything else ok?
Quote from: omagh_gael on October 31, 2014, 01:22:11 PM
Got my MOT coming up in a few days and the mechanic must have forgot to check the handbrake as it isn't (in my opinion) grabbing strong enough. Would this one issue be enough to fail the test or would a lot of the testers let it go as long as everything else ok?
If it is not holding to the required level it will def fail. Get it sorted.
Anyone know of a car that can take a Baby seat a booster and a child seat in the back. I fear i may have to get one of those 7 seater yokes but to be honest id prefer a big estate something like a Subaru Outback or a Skoda superb or an A6 maybe a Volvo, do these cars take 3 seats in the back, surely some car company has had the sense to cater for this market?
The Mazda 5 is prob the best in terms of looks of those 7 seaters but to be honest none of them look too sturdy
Hard to beat the Volvo for this type of car, plenty of room, will take the three seats easily and still have a boot for prams, bags, etc. There are some really good deals available on the new XC60 as it is in the same sector as the Range Rover Evoque, which seems to have cornered the market. Wife has an XC60 and it has been faultless and returns over 40mpg.
I was in buying some carbon cleaning spray for cleaning the EGR valve on my Vectra and I noticed bottle a diesel particle filter cleaner - you add it to the diesel and apparently it helps clean the filter.
Are these any good? Or a waste of money (~ €15 I think)
Edit: Just realised I logged in with my old username - had to setup a new username (macdanger2) a couple of years ago after I forgot the password for this one!!
Quote from: Agent Orange on October 31, 2014, 04:21:45 PM
Hard to beat the Volvo for this type of car, plenty of room, will take the three seats easily and still have a boot for prams, bags, etc. There are some really good deals available on the new XC60 as it is in the same sector as the Range Rover Evoque, which seems to have cornered the market. Wife has an XC60 and it has been faultless and returns over 40mpg.
cheers I will take a look at Volvos
Quote from: snoopdog on November 01, 2014, 07:42:11 PM
Quote from: Agent Orange on October 31, 2014, 04:21:45 PM
Hard to beat the Volvo for this type of car, plenty of room, will take the three seats easily and still have a boot for prams, bags, etc. There are some really good deals available on the new XC60 as it is in the same sector as the Range Rover Evoque, which seems to have cornered the market. Wife has an XC60 and it has been faultless and returns over 40mpg.
cheers I will take a look at Volvos
Apparently the Volvo S40 / V40 is awful for boot space although that's only from reading up on cars when I was buying. My sister has a BMW 320 and the boot in it is extremely poor
Quote from: GJL on October 20, 2014, 02:50:56 PM
Quote from: andoireabu on October 20, 2014, 01:50:57 PM
A light came up on the dash the other day saying the bonnet is open even though it isn't and the electric windows stopped working on the same day. Any ideas? Could the same thing have caused both to happen? I'm guessing it's a sensor or something in the bonnet but not a clue why the windows stopped working.
The fact that both happened on the same day would make me think it is related but with electrics you never know. Do the simple things first like check all fuses.
turns out it was a loose plug in the back of the fuse box. Touch wood its been working grand since. Nct in a week so i hope it goes through!!
Right, so my car started making this awful snapping bang.kindl of noise when I turn the steering whee. Its especially bad when I turn left. Sounds if something is trying to snap apart in the front.left . Any ideas? Inside of the left tyre is worn away to.nothing but the car ia still driving ok
Quote from: snoopdog on October 31, 2014, 02:48:16 PM
Anyone know of a car that can take a Baby seat a booster and a child seat in the back. I fear i may have to get one of those 7 seater yokes but to be honest id prefer a big estate something like a Subaru Outback or a Skoda superb or an A6 maybe a Volvo, do these cars take 3 seats in the back, surely some car company has had the sense to cater for this market?
The Mazda 5 is prob the best in terms of looks of those 7 seaters but to be honest none of them look too sturdy
Snoop check out this thread:
http://gaaboard.com/board/index.php?topic=23195.msg1289356#msg1289356 (http://gaaboard.com/board/index.php?topic=23195.msg1289356#msg1289356)
Volvo is ur car for 3 bady seats in tne back
Quote from: Apparently so on November 02, 2014, 06:17:16 AM
Right, so my car started making this awful snapping bang.kindl of noise when I turn the steering whee. Its especially bad when I turn left. Sounds if something is trying to snap apart in the front.left . Any ideas? Inside of the left tyre is worn away to.nothing but the car ia still driving ok
Possibly a broken coil spring or top suspension mount bearing.
Had an issue last week with my car, basically told that it was the injectors (Mondeo). Subsequently got them replaced and recoded, and received the car yesterday. The glow plug icon flashes for a while while the engine management light stays on. Mechanic has said that this should sort itself out within a few weeks of driving as the ECU needs to relearn. The code coming up was something related to the key programming. The car does not start on first attempt but always starts on the second. When the engine management light is on the car seems to perform not as well, is this an expected reaction and is the car simply in safe mode due to the management light being on?
Quote from: nrico2006 on November 06, 2014, 12:47:54 PM
Had an issue last week with my car, basically told that it was the injectors (Mondeo). Subsequently got them replaced and recoded, and received the car yesterday. The glow plug icon flashes for a while while the engine management light stays on. Mechanic has said that this should sort itself out within a few weeks of driving as the ECU needs to relearn. The code coming up was something related to the key programming. The car does not start on first attempt but always starts on the second. When the engine management light is on the car seems to perform not as well, is this an expected reaction and is the car simply in safe mode due to the management light being on?
No idea what is wrong but the bit in bold is nuggets.
When the light is on the car can indeed go into safe mode.
Quote from: GJL on November 06, 2014, 01:54:29 PM
Quote from: nrico2006 on November 06, 2014, 12:47:54 PM
Had an issue last week with my car, basically told that it was the injectors (Mondeo). Subsequently got them replaced and recoded, and received the car yesterday. The glow plug icon flashes for a while while the engine management light stays on. Mechanic has said that this should sort itself out within a few weeks of driving as the ECU needs to relearn. The code coming up was something related to the key programming. The car does not start on first attempt but always starts on the second. When the engine management light is on the car seems to perform not as well, is this an expected reaction and is the car simply in safe mode due to the management light being on?
No idea what is wrong but the bit in bold is nuggets.
When the light is on the car can indeed go into safe mode.
Are you saying that the relearning bit is a pile of dung then?
Quote from: nrico2006 on November 06, 2014, 04:25:13 PM
Quote from: GJL on November 06, 2014, 01:54:29 PM
Quote from: nrico2006 on November 06, 2014, 12:47:54 PM
Had an issue last week with my car, basically told that it was the injectors (Mondeo). Subsequently got them replaced and recoded, and received the car yesterday. The glow plug icon flashes for a while while the engine management light stays on. Mechanic has said that this should sort itself out within a few weeks of driving as the ECU needs to relearn. The code coming up was something related to the key programming. The car does not start on first attempt but always starts on the second. When the engine management light is on the car seems to perform not as well, is this an expected reaction and is the car simply in safe mode due to the management light being on?
No idea what is wrong but the bit in bold is nuggets.
When the light is on the car can indeed go into safe mode.
Are you saying that the relearning bit is a pile of dung then?
In my opinion,yes. I've never heard of any adaption taking few weeks.
Quote from: nrico2006 on November 06, 2014, 04:25:13 PM
Quote from: GJL on November 06, 2014, 01:54:29 PM
Quote from: nrico2006 on November 06, 2014, 12:47:54 PM
Had an issue last week with my car, basically told that it was the injectors (Mondeo). Subsequently got them replaced and recoded, and received the car yesterday. The glow plug icon flashes for a while while the engine management light stays on. Mechanic has said that this should sort itself out within a few weeks of driving as the ECU needs to relearn. The code coming up was something related to the key programming. The car does not start on first attempt but always starts on the second. When the engine management light is on the car seems to perform not as well, is this an expected reaction and is the car simply in safe mode due to the management light being on?
No idea what is wrong but the bit in bold is nuggets.
When the light is on the car can indeed go into safe mode.
Are you saying that the relearning bit is a pile of dung then?
If it is TDCi sell it at the earliest available opportunity. This is only the start of your troubles.
Quote from: TabClear on November 15, 2014, 02:57:55 PM
Hoping for some advice here from GJL, (or anyone else!).
I'm looking to change the car shortly. Looking at buying a 3-4 year old BMW 3 Series with less than 60000 miles.
A couple of peoplpe have told me I should be looking to buy it in England and bring it home as there are plenty over there and the savings could be significant.
Just wondering if anyone has any experience in this and has any advice? My main concern is that I am spending a decent amount on the car and if there are any problems I cannot just turn up on the dealers street.
I'm buying in England on a weekly basis from sources that I have built up a trust with. PM me with what you are looking for and I'll give you an idea of price.
Quote from: Tony Baloney on November 15, 2014, 04:26:01 PM
Quote from: nrico2006 on November 06, 2014, 04:25:13 PM
Quote from: GJL on November 06, 2014, 01:54:29 PM
Quote from: nrico2006 on November 06, 2014, 12:47:54 PM
Had an issue last week with my car, basically told that it was the injectors (Mondeo). Subsequently got them replaced and recoded, and received the car yesterday. The glow plug icon flashes for a while while the engine management light stays on. Mechanic has said that this should sort itself out within a few weeks of driving as the ECU needs to relearn. The code coming up was something related to the key programming. The car does not start on first attempt but always starts on the second. When the engine management light is on the car seems to perform not as well, is this an expected reaction and is the car simply in safe mode due to the management light being on?
No idea what is wrong but the bit in bold is nuggets.
When the light is on the car can indeed go into safe mode.
Are you saying that the relearning bit is a pile of dung then?
If it is TDCi sell it at the earliest available opportunity. This is only the start of your troubles.
Whys that?
Quote from: nrico2006 on November 17, 2014, 08:18:20 AM
Quote from: Tony Baloney on November 15, 2014, 04:26:01 PM
Quote from: nrico2006 on November 06, 2014, 04:25:13 PM
Quote from: GJL on November 06, 2014, 01:54:29 PM
Quote from: nrico2006 on November 06, 2014, 12:47:54 PM
Had an issue last week with my car, basically told that it was the injectors (Mondeo). Subsequently got them replaced and recoded, and received the car yesterday. The glow plug icon flashes for a while while the engine management light stays on. Mechanic has said that this should sort itself out within a few weeks of driving as the ECU needs to relearn. The code coming up was something related to the key programming. The car does not start on first attempt but always starts on the second. When the engine management light is on the car seems to perform not as well, is this an expected reaction and is the car simply in safe mode due to the management light being on?
No idea what is wrong but the bit in bold is nuggets.
When the light is on the car can indeed go into safe mode.
Are you saying that the relearning bit is a pile of dung then?
If it is TDCi sell it at the earliest available opportunity. This is only the start of your troubles.
Whys that?
Well maybe the injectors will do the trick but I had a real bad run on my old Focus. Injectors, positioning sensors, flywheel etc. all in the space of a few months.
Quote from: Tony Baloney on November 17, 2014, 09:00:20 AM
Quote from: nrico2006 on November 17, 2014, 08:18:20 AM
Quote from: Tony Baloney on November 15, 2014, 04:26:01 PM
Quote from: nrico2006 on November 06, 2014, 04:25:13 PM
Quote from: GJL on November 06, 2014, 01:54:29 PM
Quote from: nrico2006 on November 06, 2014, 12:47:54 PM
Had an issue last week with my car, basically told that it was the injectors (Mondeo). Subsequently got them replaced and recoded, and received the car yesterday. The glow plug icon flashes for a while while the engine management light stays on. Mechanic has said that this should sort itself out within a few weeks of driving as the ECU needs to relearn. The code coming up was something related to the key programming. The car does not start on first attempt but always starts on the second. When the engine management light is on the car seems to perform not as well, is this an expected reaction and is the car simply in safe mode due to the management light being on?
No idea what is wrong but the bit in bold is nuggets.
When the light is on the car can indeed go into safe mode.
Are you saying that the relearning bit is a pile of dung then?
If it is TDCi sell it at the earliest available opportunity. This is only the start of your troubles.
Whys that?
Well maybe the injectors will do the trick but I had a real bad run on my old Focus. Injectors, positioning sensors, flywheel etc. all in the space of a few months.
Jeesus, thats rough. Its actually nearly better now, seemingly fitting the mechanics idea that the ecu needed to relearn. However, as they are under warranty I am leaving it back with him tomorrow and they are replacing the solenoids on the injectors. Mondeos are notorious for starter/flywheel/clutch problems so I made sure I enquired that these were replaced in the mondeo before I got it. Fingers crossed.
Quote from: nrico2006 on November 17, 2014, 09:10:40 AM
Quote from: Tony Baloney on November 17, 2014, 09:00:20 AM
Quote from: nrico2006 on November 17, 2014, 08:18:20 AM
Quote from: Tony Baloney on November 15, 2014, 04:26:01 PM
Quote from: nrico2006 on November 06, 2014, 04:25:13 PM
Quote from: GJL on November 06, 2014, 01:54:29 PM
Quote from: nrico2006 on November 06, 2014, 12:47:54 PM
Had an issue last week with my car, basically told that it was the injectors (Mondeo). Subsequently got them replaced and recoded, and received the car yesterday. The glow plug icon flashes for a while while the engine management light stays on. Mechanic has said that this should sort itself out within a few weeks of driving as the ECU needs to relearn. The code coming up was something related to the key programming. The car does not start on first attempt but always starts on the second. When the engine management light is on the car seems to perform not as well, is this an expected reaction and is the car simply in safe mode due to the management light being on?
No idea what is wrong but the bit in bold is nuggets.
When the light is on the car can indeed go into safe mode.
Are you saying that the relearning bit is a pile of dung then?
If it is TDCi sell it at the earliest available opportunity. This is only the start of your troubles.
Whys that?
Well maybe the injectors will do the trick but I had a real bad run on my old Focus. Injectors, positioning sensors, flywheel etc. all in the space of a few months.
Jeesus, thats rough. Its actually nearly better now, seemingly fitting the mechanics idea that the ecu needed to relearn. However, as they are under warranty I am leaving it back with him tomorrow and they are replacing the solenoids on the injectors. Mondeos are notorious for starter/flywheel/clutch problems so I made sure I enquired that these were replaced in the mondeo before I got it. Fingers crossed.
Hopefully you're sorted. I went to Lindsay's when mine first went and even with diagnostics they charged me a grand and it still wasn't fixed >:(
Lindsay are horrible to deal with. I got a Mazda 6 of them, would never go near them again. they wouldnt do anything for you.
i bought used and the boot lid went off line a bit, they refused to fix it for free said they couldnt prove it hadnt been hit even though i bought it from them. never again will i darken their door or anyone i hear of going to them.
Due to my own stupidity, I reversed into a pillar this morning while heading off to work. :-[ Noticeable damage done to the car. What my question is, would a garage fix the problem or would I have to go to another repair centre? I feel like an idiot all day.
Quote from: Farrandeelin on November 17, 2014, 03:36:37 PM
Due to my own stupidity, I reversed into a pillar this morning while heading off to work. :-[ Noticeable damage done to the car. What my question is, would a garage fix the problem or would I have to go to another repair centre? I feel like an idiot all day.
I suspect the latter (bodyshop) would be cheaper.
Quote from: snoopdog on November 17, 2014, 03:19:55 PM
Lindsay are horrible to deal with. I got a Mazda 6 of them, would never go near them again. they wouldnt do anything for you.
i bought used and the boot lid went off line a bit, they refused to fix it for free said they couldnt prove it hadnt been hit even though i bought it from them. never again will i darken their door or anyone i hear of going to them.
Aye cnuts. When I said to them the car wasn't fixed properly, they said they could only go by the diagnostic codes etc. but would take another look ::) More fitters than proper mechanics I'd reckon.
Quote from: muppet on November 17, 2014, 05:06:29 PM
Quote from: Farrandeelin on November 17, 2014, 03:36:37 PM
Due to my own stupidity, I reversed into a pillar this morning while heading off to work. :-[ Noticeable damage done to the car. What my question is, would a garage fix the problem or would I have to go to another repair centre? I feel like an idiot all day.
I suspect the latter (bodyshop) would be cheaper.
Have to say parking sensors are the one gizmo on my car I couldn't do without. Obvious disadvantage is that now when I jump in a car without them I either forget I don't have them when reversing or end up driving like someone's granny, looking for a big space, door open. ::)
OK having a problem with my car last few days.
Not sure how to describe it but I'll try.
When I'm sitting in traffic and I go to move to whole car starts vibrating.
Its worse when I haven't taken the car out of gear and I go to take off or if I'm on a hill and I am using the clutch and accelerator at once instead of the handbrake.
Is the clutch fecked or what? The car is driving grand other than that.
Does anyone know if it is still possible to reregister a car in NI if it has English plates since the DVLA was moved from Coleraine to Swansea? If so how do I go about it?
Quote from: laoislad on November 21, 2014, 07:50:46 PM
OK having a problem with my car last few days.
Not sure how to describe it but I'll try.
When I'm sitting in traffic and I go to move to whole car starts vibrating.
Its worse when I haven't taken the car out of gear and I go to take off or if I'm on a hill and I am using the clutch and accelerator at once instead of the handbrake.
Is the clutch fecked or what? The car is driving grand other than that.
Could be
When the car's out of gear and idling, is there any rattling going on in and around the engine (your vibrating might be my rattling)? If so the rattling should disappear when you engage the gears if its the dual mass flywheel.
Mine rattled like feck for many thousands of miles before I got it looked at...got to 150k on the clock but that's doing the right sort of miles. Expect 700+ yoyos for the parts
No, when I'm sitting in traffic idle there is no rattle its only when I go to take off.
I hardly ever use my handbrake while in moving slow traffic,unless stuck for a long time I would, and would always leave it in gear and just put foot on clutch and brake or accelerator depending on if I'm on a hill or whatever. A bad habit I know but it's just what I do.
The car almost shakes now as I go to move. It's only being happening last few days.
Dunno if I'm explaining it well.
Quote from: laoislad on November 21, 2014, 11:08:45 PM
No, when I'm sitting in traffic idle there is no rattle its only when I go to take off.
I hardly ever use my handbrake while in moving slow traffic,unless stuck for a long time I would, and would always leave it in gear and just put foot on clutch and brake or accelerator depending on if I'm on a hill or whatever. A bad habit I know but it's just what I do.
The car almost shakes now as I go to move. It's only being happening last few days.
If flywheel you'll probably not notice anything at idle. Sit at idle and jab the cluth in and if it start to grind and shake then have to assume it's the flywheel.
Quote from: hardstation on November 21, 2014, 11:19:28 PM
You might have a puncture. Take it to your local tyre centre to check.
If not, it's probably a broken brake light.
Make sure you have fuel in and the engine switched on?
Quote from: laoislad on November 21, 2014, 11:08:45 PM
No, when I'm sitting in traffic idle there is no rattle its only when I go to take off.
I hardly ever use my handbrake while in moving slow traffic,unless stuck for a long time I would, and would always leave it in gear and just put foot on clutch and brake or accelerator depending on if I'm on a hill or whatever. A bad habit I know but it's just what I do.
The car almost shakes now as I go to move. It's only being happening last few days.
Dunno if I'm explaining it well.
Sounds like flywheel to me. Not cheap. :-\
If it is not annoying you too much you can let it go for a while until it gets worse.
Quote from: Tony Baloney on November 21, 2014, 11:15:47 PM
Quote from: laoislad on November 21, 2014, 11:08:45 PM
No, when I'm sitting in traffic idle there is no rattle its only when I go to take off.
I hardly ever use my handbrake while in moving slow traffic,unless stuck for a long time I would, and would always leave it in gear and just put foot on clutch and brake or accelerator depending on if I'm on a hill or whatever. A bad habit I know but it's just what I do.
The car almost shakes now as I go to move. It's only being happening last few days.
If flywheel you'll probably not notice anything at idle. Sit at idle and jab the cluth in and if it start to grind and shake then have to assume it's the flywheel.
Tried this today and the car didn't grind or shake or anything. I was able press the clutch in and out no bother and was very smooth.
One thing I thought of but maybe it was nothing but I had to drive through some pretty large floods last week. The water us up near the top of the wheel arch at one stage.
Could this have caused damage?
Was looking at a 04 Meriva for the missus this evening, looks like a decent enough car except that there was a small "mayonnaise" deposit on the underside of the oil cap - normally a sign of the head gasket going / gone or would there be any other reason for it??
I drove it for 15 min and then revved it (@2k) for 5 mins and it didn't appear to overheat, didn't get hot enough for the fan to come on.
Quote from: macdanger2 on November 22, 2014, 08:19:17 PM
Was looking at a 04 Meriva for the missus this evening, looks like a decent enough car except that there was a small "mayonnaise" deposit on the underside of the oil cap - normally a sign of the head gasket going / gone or would there be any other reason for it??
I drove it for 15 min and then revved it (@2k) for 5 mins and it didn't appear to overheat, didn't get hot enough for the fan to come on.
Oil mixed with water does this. Not a good sign. As you say could be head gasket or maybe the oil cooler. I would avoid if I were you.
Thanks GJL
misplaced my main set of car keys yesterday. Can't find them anywhere ffs nightmare. Used the spare today but the open fob button is broke and the manual for lock seems blocked (key only goes in half way). so have had to open the boot and let the young lad climb through and open the doors.
Now rang some num down south (one of those ppl ye call when you lose anything apparently) and the man says they're in an out building - shed being pulled apart 2moro.
What are my options if I can't find the main set of keys?
Quote from: BenDover on November 22, 2014, 09:29:44 PM
misplaced my main set of car keys yesterday. Can't find them anywhere ffs nightmare. Used the spare today but the open fob button is broke and the manual for lock seems blocked (key only goes in half way). so have had to open the boot and let the young lad climb through and open the doors.
Now rang some num down south (one of those ppl ye call when you lose anything apparently) and the man says they're in an out building - shed being pulled apart 2moro.
What are my options if I can't find the main set of keys?
i would be interested to hear more about this?
Quote from: BenDover on November 22, 2014, 09:29:44 PM
misplaced my main set of car keys yesterday. Can't find them anywhere ffs nightmare. Used the spare today but the open fob button is broke and the manual for lock seems blocked (key only goes in half way). so have had to open the boot and let the young lad climb through and open the doors.
Now rang some num down south (one of those ppl ye call when you lose anything apparently) and the man says they're in an out building - shed being pulled apart 2moro.
What are my options if I can't find the main set of keys?
Get a tin of WD40. Attach the straw that is on the side of the tin and spray it into the door lock. Repeat after half an hour. Try key in again.
Similar to ringing someone for the cure for an ailment. Wife stuck a post on fb asking if anyone had the number. Got it and rang him. Conversion went along the lines of Hi I've lost a set of car keys and his reply was was I've a vision of an out building.
I'd be fairly sceptical of this stuff but I've pulled rooms apart with no joy so if they're in the shed I'll b amazed
WD40 worked this morning, good man GJL. No luck finding the keys though
WTF?
Quote from: BenDover on November 22, 2014, 11:14:24 PM
Similar to ringing someone for the cure for an ailment. Wife stuck a post on fb asking if anyone had the number. Got it and rang him. Conversion went along the lines of Hi I've lost a set of car keys and his reply was was I've a vision of an out building.
I'd be fairly sceptical of this stuff but I've pulled rooms apart with no joy so if they're in the shed I'll b amazed
The left pocket of a rarely worn jacket might prove interesting...
Quote from: BenDover on November 23, 2014, 07:45:45 PM
WD40 worked this morning, good man GJL. No luck finding the keys though
Glad it worked. Can't help with the keys I'm afraid.
Quote from: laoislad on November 22, 2014, 10:32:52 AM
Quote from: Tony Baloney on November 21, 2014, 11:15:47 PM
Quote from: laoislad on November 21, 2014, 11:08:45 PM
No, when I'm sitting in traffic idle there is no rattle its only when I go to take off.
I hardly ever use my handbrake while in moving slow traffic,unless stuck for a long time I would, and would always leave it in gear and just put foot on clutch and brake or accelerator depending on if I'm on a hill or whatever. A bad habit I know but it's just what I do.
The car almost shakes now as I go to move. It's only being happening last few days.
If flywheel you'll probably not notice anything at idle. Sit at idle and jab the cluth in and if it start to grind and shake then have to assume it's the flywheel.
Tried this today and the car didn't grind or shake or anything. I was able press the clutch in and out no bother and was very smooth.
One thing I thought of but maybe it was nothing but I had to drive through some pretty large floods last week. The water us up near the top of the wheel arch at one stage.
Could this have caused damage?
Fitting 2 flywheel kits today and reminded me of this. How is it going now LL?
Quote from: BenDover on November 22, 2014, 11:14:24 PM
Similar to ringing someone for the cure for an ailment. Wife stuck a post on fb asking if anyone had the number. Got it and rang him. Conversion went along the lines of Hi I've lost a set of car keys and his reply was was I've a vision of an out building.
I'd be fairly sceptical of this stuff but I've pulled rooms apart with no joy so if they're in the shed I'll b amazed
any update, were they in the shed or some other out building?
Quote from: LeoMc on November 21, 2014, 10:40:29 PM
Does anyone know if it is still possible to reregister a car in NI if it has English plates since the DVLA was moved from Coleraine to Swansea? If so how do I go about it?
bump.
Quote from: LeoMc on November 26, 2014, 02:10:13 PM
Quote from: LeoMc on November 21, 2014, 10:40:29 PM
Does anyone know if it is still possible to reregister a car in NI if it has English plates since the DVLA was moved from Coleraine to Swansea? If so how do I go about it?
bump.
If it is still on an English log book you post it off to Swansea with insurance MOT and appropriate tax fee and put in a note saying you want a new NI number issued.
Quote from: GJL on November 26, 2014, 02:26:11 PM
Quote from: LeoMc on November 26, 2014, 02:10:13 PM
Quote from: LeoMc on November 21, 2014, 10:40:29 PM
Does anyone know if it is still possible to reregister a car in NI if it has English plates since the DVLA was moved from Coleraine to Swansea? If so how do I go about it?
bump.
If it is still on an English log book you post it off to Swansea with insurance MOT and appropriate tax fee and put in a note saying you want a new NI number issued.
Cheers, it is £0 tax so it sounds like it wont cost me anything. MrsMc doesn't like the 13 in the middle of it.
Quote from: LeoMc on November 26, 2014, 04:13:42 PM
Quote from: GJL on November 26, 2014, 02:26:11 PM
Quote from: LeoMc on November 26, 2014, 02:10:13 PM
Quote from: LeoMc on November 21, 2014, 10:40:29 PM
Does anyone know if it is still possible to reregister a car in NI if it has English plates since the DVLA was moved from Coleraine to Swansea? If so how do I go about it?
bump.
If it is still on an English log book you post it off to Swansea with insurance MOT and appropriate tax fee and put in a note saying you want a new NI number issued.
Cheers, it is £0 tax so it sounds like it wont cost me anything. MrsMc doesn't like the 13 in the middle of it.
Is it still on the English book or have you registered it in your name?
Quote from: GJL on November 26, 2014, 05:37:56 PM
Quote from: LeoMc on November 26, 2014, 04:13:42 PM
Quote from: GJL on November 26, 2014, 02:26:11 PM
Quote from: LeoMc on November 26, 2014, 02:10:13 PM
Quote from: LeoMc on November 21, 2014, 10:40:29 PM
Does anyone know if it is still possible to reregister a car in NI if it has English plates since the DVLA was moved from Coleraine to Swansea? If so how do I go about it?
bump.
If it is still on an English log book you post it off to Swansea with insurance MOT and appropriate tax fee and put in a note saying you want a new NI number issued.
Cheers, it is £0 tax so it sounds like it wont cost me anything. MrsMc doesn't like the 13 in the middle of it.
Is it still on the English book or have you registered it in your name?
I registered it in my own name when I bought it to get it taxed.
GJL, I've a vectra c that is making a popping sound when accelerating up to 30mph or so. Sounds like it's coming from rear passenger side. If I touch the brakes, engage hand brake the popping stops. Car has been through MOT 3 weeks ago and was in garage last week but mechanic couldn't find anything out of place. Any ideas before I return it to garage? drive doesn't seem to be affected but nose beckoning a bit annoying.
Quote from: LeoMc on November 26, 2014, 07:11:08 PM
Quote from: GJL on November 26, 2014, 05:37:56 PM
Quote from: LeoMc on November 26, 2014, 04:13:42 PM
Quote from: GJL on November 26, 2014, 02:26:11 PM
Quote from: LeoMc on November 26, 2014, 02:10:13 PM
Quote from: LeoMc on November 21, 2014, 10:40:29 PM
Does anyone know if it is still possible to reregister a car in NI if it has English plates since the DVLA was moved from Coleraine to Swansea? If so how do I go about it?
bump.
If it is still on an English log book you post it off to Swansea with insurance MOT and appropriate tax fee and put in a note saying you want a new NI number issued.
Cheers, it is £0 tax so it sounds like it wont cost me anything. MrsMc doesn't like the 13 in the middle of it.
Is it still on the English book or have you registered it in your name?
I registered it in my own name when I bought it to get it taxed.
You might have missed your chance then I think.
Quote from: BenDover on November 26, 2014, 11:03:05 PM
GJL, I've a vectra c that is making a popping sound when accelerating up to 30mph or so. Sounds like it's coming from rear passenger side. If I touch the brakes, engage hand brake the popping stops. Car has been through MOT 3 weeks ago and was in garage last week but mechanic couldn't find anything out of place. Any ideas before I return it to garage? drive doesn't seem to be affected but nose beckoning a bit annoying.
Not sure but I would be looking at handbrake shoes.
Gjl, I have a diesel o5 megane. Had to get new engine in it last week. Driving ok this week until today. No reverse gear when I try to select think it picks 3rd or 4th when attempting to do so. Also can't select 5th gear as gear stick won't go into that position at all. Could this be something easily remedied or am I looking major gearbox surgery? Could it be connected to new engine?
Could be the linkages have fallen loose. bring it back to the garage that changed the engine.
I had that problem in a golf once where the selector didn't turn enough with the gear stick. Bit of fidgeting with it and it was fine.
Quote from: Denn Forever on November 27, 2014, 01:38:15 PM
Could be the linkages have fallen loose. bring it back to the garage that changed the engine.
This.
Quote from: BenDover on November 22, 2014, 11:14:24 PM
Similar to ringing someone for the cure for an ailment. Wife stuck a post on fb asking if anyone had the number. Got it and rang him. Conversion went along the lines of Hi I've lost a set of car keys and his reply was was I've a vision of an out building.
I'd be fairly sceptical of this stuff but I've pulled rooms apart with no joy so if they're in the shed I'll b amazed
I rang this man and told him a man I know had lost a large sum of money. When he asked for a name I just told him 'Quinn'.
He gave me great information and if it works and I find all the money, let's just say we will be having one hell of a Gadderin.
Quote from: muppet on November 27, 2014, 04:05:24 PM
Quote from: BenDover on November 22, 2014, 11:14:24 PM
Similar to ringing someone for the cure for an ailment. Wife stuck a post on fb asking if anyone had the number. Got it and rang him. Conversion went along the lines of Hi I've lost a set of car keys and his reply was was I've a vision of an out building.
I'd be fairly sceptical of this stuff but I've pulled rooms apart with no joy so if they're in the shed I'll b amazed
I rang this man and told him a man I know had lost a large sum of money. When he asked for a name I just told him 'Quinn'.
He gave me great information and if it works and I find all the money, let's just say we will be having one hell of a Gadderin.
Did he tell you to fly to Ukraine?
Quote from: LeoMc on November 27, 2014, 04:10:07 PM
Quote from: muppet on November 27, 2014, 04:05:24 PM
Quote from: BenDover on November 22, 2014, 11:14:24 PM
Similar to ringing someone for the cure for an ailment. Wife stuck a post on fb asking if anyone had the number. Got it and rang him. Conversion went along the lines of Hi I've lost a set of car keys and his reply was was I've a vision of an out building.
I'd be fairly sceptical of this stuff but I've pulled rooms apart with no joy so if they're in the shed I'll b amazed
I rang this man and told him a man I know had lost a large sum of money. When he asked for a name I just told him 'Quinn'.
He gave me great information and if it works and I find all the money, let's just say we will be having one hell of a Gadderin.
Did he tell you to fly to Ukraine?
The details of the conversation are confidential. But I will invite you all to the Gadderin if he is right.
Shouldn't be if is just the linkage. Quick look at it on the hoist will confirm.
Seen one of these today, alfa romeo brera. All i can say im glad its not payday. Stunning looking car.
Any views on these? What are they like to live with?
Quote from: pullhard on November 27, 2014, 10:01:14 PM
Seen one of these today, alfa romeo brera. All i can say im glad its not payday. Stunning looking car.
Any views on these? What are they like to live with?
Don't just walk away, run and don't look back.
It will break, repeatedly. Its an Alfa, it's what they do.
I don't have a lot of experience of them but always heard they were a complete pile of scrap.
Dam what a shame, very pretty car :( thanks folks
They are very pretty cars and a great driving car when they are actually driving, but they are extremely unreliable and they depreciate at an alarming rate. I speak from experience.
Alfas have an unreliably issue for the last 50 years. Have they never tried to address this? Are the latest ones still unreliable?
Quote from: GJL on November 26, 2014, 11:42:52 AM
Quote from: laoislad on November 22, 2014, 10:32:52 AM
Quote from: Tony Baloney on November 21, 2014, 11:15:47 PM
Quote from: laoislad on November 21, 2014, 11:08:45 PM
No, when I'm sitting in traffic idle there is no rattle its only when I go to take off.
I hardly ever use my handbrake while in moving slow traffic,unless stuck for a long time I would, and would always leave it in gear and just put foot on clutch and brake or accelerator depending on if I'm on a hill or whatever. A bad habit I know but it's just what I do.
The car almost shakes now as I go to move. It's only being happening last few days.
If flywheel you'll probably not notice anything at idle. Sit at idle and jab the cluth in and if it start to grind and shake then have to assume it's the flywheel.
Tried this today and the car didn't grind or shake or anything. I was able press the clutch in and out no bother and was very smooth.
One thing I thought of but maybe it was nothing but I had to drive through some pretty large floods last week. The water us up near the top of the wheel arch at one stage.
Could this have caused damage?
Fitting 2 flywheel kits today and reminded me of this. How is it going now LL?
Not great >:(
Was driving along in traffic today and the clutch got stuck pressed in.
I had to reach down and pull it back and she popped back and was fine after that.
I still have the shaking in the car when I move off.
Does it sound like clutch is fcuked?
Yup
I thinking you need to get that into the mechanic.
Quote from: laoislad on November 28, 2014, 03:04:50 PM
Quote from: GJL on November 26, 2014, 11:42:52 AM
Quote from: laoislad on November 22, 2014, 10:32:52 AM
Quote from: Tony Baloney on November 21, 2014, 11:15:47 PM
Quote from: laoislad on November 21, 2014, 11:08:45 PM
No, when I'm sitting in traffic idle there is no rattle its only when I go to take off.
I hardly ever use my handbrake while in moving slow traffic,unless stuck for a long time I would, and would always leave it in gear and just put foot on clutch and brake or accelerator depending on if I'm on a hill or whatever. A bad habit I know but it's just what I do.
The car almost shakes now as I go to move. It's only being happening last few days.
If flywheel you'll probably not notice anything at idle. Sit at idle and jab the cluth in and if it start to grind and shake then have to assume it's the flywheel.
Tried this today and the car didn't grind or shake or anything. I was able press the clutch in and out no bother and was very smooth.
One thing I thought of but maybe it was nothing but I had to drive through some pretty large floods last week. The water us up near the top of the wheel arch at one stage.
Could this have caused damage?
Fitting 2 flywheel kits today and reminded me of this. How is it going now LL?
Not great >:(
Was driving along in traffic today and the clutch got stuck pressed in.
I had to reach down and pull it back and she popped back and was fine after that.
I still have the shaking in the car when I move off.
Does it sound like clutch is fcuked?
Def clutch/flywheel problem. They both come in a kit with a new release bearing as well so it would be wise to replace all when you go to the bother of removing the gearbox which is quite labour intensive.
So how much you talking price wise to fix?
I hate dealing with mechanics....they are nearly as bad as Electricians!!
Quote from: laoislad on November 28, 2014, 05:10:59 PM
So how much you talking price wise to fix?
I hate dealing with mechanics....they are nearly as bad as Electricians!!
f**k we are not that bad!! ;)
Is it an A4 you drive?
Quote from: GJL on November 28, 2014, 05:12:13 PM
Quote from: laoislad on November 28, 2014, 05:10:59 PM
So how much you talking price wise to fix?
I hate dealing with mechanics....they are nearly as bad as Electricians!!
f**k we are not that bad!! ;)
Is it an A4 you drive?
Yeah an A4.
Quote from: laoislad on November 28, 2014, 05:12:57 PM
Quote from: GJL on November 28, 2014, 05:12:13 PM
Quote from: laoislad on November 28, 2014, 05:10:59 PM
So how much you talking price wise to fix?
I hate dealing with mechanics....they are nearly as bad as Electricians!!
f**k we are not that bad!! ;)
Is it an A4 you drive?
Yeah an A4.
The kit is about £500 plus VAT then a day to fit.
Quote from: GJL on November 28, 2014, 06:17:02 PM
Quote from: laoislad on November 28, 2014, 05:12:57 PM
Quote from: GJL on November 28, 2014, 05:12:13 PM
Quote from: laoislad on November 28, 2014, 05:10:59 PM
So how much you talking price wise to fix?
I hate dealing with mechanics....they are nearly as bad as Electricians!!
f**k we are not that bad!! ;)
Is it an A4 you drive?
Yeah an A4.
The kit is about £500 plus VAT then a day to fit.
Got car fixed yesterday. It was the clutch and something called a slave cylinder. He said the fly wheel was in good nick and didn't need replacing.
€500 for everything
Quote from: laoislad on December 09, 2014, 02:15:04 PM
Quote from: GJL on November 28, 2014, 06:17:02 PM
Quote from: laoislad on November 28, 2014, 05:12:57 PM
Quote from: GJL on November 28, 2014, 05:12:13 PM
Quote from: laoislad on November 28, 2014, 05:10:59 PM
So how much you talking price wise to fix?
I hate dealing with mechanics....they are nearly as bad as Electricians!!
f**k we are not that bad!! ;)
Is it an A4 you drive?
Yeah an A4.
The kit is about £500 plus VAT then a day to fit.
Got car fixed yesterday. It was the clutch and something called a slave cylinder. He said the fly wheel was in good nick and didn't need replacing.
€500 for everything
Good stuff LL. If the slave cylinder was gone did your pedal feel a bit spongey? How many miles is on your car?
Hoping this is nothing but since yesterday there has been a noise like air rushing through the car when I accelerate. Doesn't happen in 1st or 2nd gear but in 3rd when the car gets to around 1600rpm it starts. I had the windscreen replaced two days ago. Could it be that it didn't seal properly or does it sound mechanical? 08 focus diesel.
Quote from: GJL on December 09, 2014, 03:47:46 PM
Quote from: laoislad on December 09, 2014, 02:15:04 PM
Quote from: GJL on November 28, 2014, 06:17:02 PM
Quote from: laoislad on November 28, 2014, 05:12:57 PM
Quote from: GJL on November 28, 2014, 05:12:13 PM
Quote from: laoislad on November 28, 2014, 05:10:59 PM
So how much you talking price wise to fix?
I hate dealing with mechanics....they are nearly as bad as Electricians!!
f**k we are not that bad!! ;)
Is it an A4 you drive?
Yeah an A4.
The kit is about £500 plus VAT then a day to fit.
Got car fixed yesterday. It was the clutch and something called a slave cylinder. He said the fly wheel was in good nick and didn't need replacing.
€500 for everything
Good stuff LL. If the slave cylinder was gone did your pedal feel a bit spongey? How many miles is on your car?
120,000 KM so about 74k miles?
Quote from: laoislad on December 10, 2014, 09:04:35 PM
Quote from: GJL on December 09, 2014, 03:47:46 PM
Quote from: laoislad on December 09, 2014, 02:15:04 PM
Quote from: GJL on November 28, 2014, 06:17:02 PM
Quote from: laoislad on November 28, 2014, 05:12:57 PM
Quote from: GJL on November 28, 2014, 05:12:13 PM
Quote from: laoislad on November 28, 2014, 05:10:59 PM
So how much you talking price wise to fix?
I hate dealing with mechanics....they are nearly as bad as Electricians!!
f**k we are not that bad!! ;)
Is it an A4 you drive?
Yeah an A4.
The kit is about £500 plus VAT then a day to fit.
Got car fixed yesterday. It was the clutch and something called a slave cylinder. He said the fly wheel was in good nick and didn't need replacing.
€500 for everything
Good stuff LL. If the slave cylinder was gone did your pedal feel a bit spongey? How many miles is on your car?
120,000 KM so about 74k miles?
At that mileage I would expect the flywheel to still be ok. Good for at least 100k miles but so should the clutch and associated hydrolics. I hope this is the end of your bother.
Quote from: andoireabu on December 10, 2014, 08:55:46 PM
Hoping this is nothing but since yesterday there has been a noise like air rushing through the car when I accelerate. Doesn't happen in 1st or 2nd gear but in 3rd when the car gets to around 1600rpm it starts. I had the windscreen replaced two days ago. Could it be that it didn't seal properly or does it sound mechanical? 08 focus diesel.
Is the car window open?? ;D
Quote from: macdanger2 on December 10, 2014, 09:56:55 PM
Quote from: andoireabu on December 10, 2014, 08:55:46 PM
Hoping this is nothing but since yesterday there has been a noise like air rushing through the car when I accelerate. Doesn't happen in 1st or 2nd gear but in 3rd when the car gets to around 1600rpm it starts. I had the windscreen replaced two days ago. Could it be that it didn't seal properly or does it sound mechanical? 08 focus diesel.
Is the car window open?? ;D
Ha ha smartass. Naw it sounds like its coming through the vent in the dashboard. And the fans aren't on either before that gets throw out :P
Is the sunroof closed :P
You two should be a double act! No sunroof in the car.
Is the engine lacking power? Any engine lights on?
happened me with an 06 focus, there was a crack in some air pipe under the bonnet that caused the car to lose power and make a similar noise. was easily fixed by my mechanic and not too sore on the pocket either.
No loss of power and no lights on. Was the pipe easy to see? Could take a wee peek tomorrow.
Quote from: andoireabu on December 10, 2014, 11:29:16 PM
No loss of power and no lights on. Was the pipe easy to see? Could take a wee peek tomorrow.
yeah pipe was 2/3 inch square, middle of bonnet and crack could easily be found when standing over open bonnet and someone revving the car.
Quote from: Link on December 10, 2014, 11:32:01 PM
Quote from: andoireabu on December 10, 2014, 11:29:16 PM
No loss of power and no lights on. Was the pipe easy to see? Could take a wee peek tomorrow.
yeah pipe was 2/3 inch square, middle of bonnet and crack could easily be found when standing over open bonnet and someone revving the car.
Intercooler pipe. It's what I suspected from the description. Usually it will cause a drop in power and/or EML.
cheers, my terminology when it comes to cars is quite limited!
Quote from: GJL on December 10, 2014, 11:58:27 PM
Quote from: Link on December 10, 2014, 11:32:01 PM
Quote from: andoireabu on December 10, 2014, 11:29:16 PM
No loss of power and no lights on. Was the pipe easy to see? Could take a wee peek tomorrow.
yeah pipe was 2/3 inch square, middle of bonnet and crack could easily be found when standing over open bonnet and someone revving the car.
Intercooler pipe. It's what I suspected from the description. Usually it will cause a drop in power and/or EML.
Yep, was thinking it was the intercooler pipe. If you are getting a sudden whoosh of air when accelerating it could be that and not something expensive.
Cheers for the advice lads. Is it a DIY fix or would it be better to let a mechanic at it if its not too expensive?
Took the car to a garage and they agreed its the intercooler pipe. Said the part could be upwards of €100 and then labour would be a fair bit because they have to strip it down to find the hole and then replace the part. Does that sound right?
Quote from: andoireabu on December 11, 2014, 04:26:02 PM
Took the car to a garage and they agreed its the intercooler pipe. Said the part could be upwards of €100 and then labour would be a fair bit because they have to strip it down to find the hole and then replace the part. Does that sound right?
No idea how you expect anyone to answer the labour bit :D, but I'd google for the part for your car and engine and see what it costs
I didn't think it would be too bad labour wise. Had a similar problem last year and got a new hose at £70 and paid £30 to get it on.
The part price seems right enough but he told me it would take a few hours labour at €60 an hour! Rang the dealer i bought it from and he says its not covered under warranty because its not a main engine part. Sounds fishy to me though since its connected to the engine!
As it is not Warranty related, could an independent garage e.g.GJL replace it without a affecting the Service History?
What type of car is it and where is the pipe?
It's a 2008 ford focus. I'm trying to figure out whether it comes under the warranty or not since it is connected to the engine. Dealer says it isn't but he was happy to sort out suspension parts for me after it failed the n.c.t even though he said the warranty only covers main engine parts and the gearbox. However with this it just seems he doesn't want to do it. As to where the pipe is the mechanic i took it to yesterday couldn't pin point where the damage is and said it could be a few different places. They would need to go digging hence the few hours labour they told me it would be.
Quote from: andoireabu on December 12, 2014, 02:57:44 PM
It's a 2008 ford focus. I'm trying to figure out whether it comes under the warranty or not since it is connected to the engine. Dealer says it isn't but he was happy to sort out suspension parts for me after it failed the n.c.t even though he said the warranty only covers main engine parts and the gearbox. However with this it just seems he doesn't want to do it. As to where the pipe is the mechanic i took it to yesterday couldn't pin point where the damage is and said it could be a few different places. They would need to go digging hence the few hours labour they told me it would be.
I'm no mechanic but if they are replacing the pipe why does this matter?
Quote from: TabClear on December 12, 2014, 03:04:35 PM
Quote from: andoireabu on December 12, 2014, 02:57:44 PM
It's a 2008 ford focus. I'm trying to figure out whether it comes under the warranty or not since it is connected to the engine. Dealer says it isn't but he was happy to sort out suspension parts for me after it failed the n.c.t even though he said the warranty only covers main engine parts and the gearbox. However with this it just seems he doesn't want to do it. As to where the pipe is the mechanic i took it to yesterday couldn't pin point where the damage is and said it could be a few different places. They would need to go digging hence the few hours labour they told me it would be.
I'm no mechanic but if they are replacing the pipe why does this matter?
It doesn't really but denn asked where it was and i'm not totally sure. Think it is down the right hand side of the engine as you look in.
Quote from: andoireabu on December 12, 2014, 03:33:32 PM
Quote from: TabClear on December 12, 2014, 03:04:35 PM
Quote from: andoireabu on December 12, 2014, 02:57:44 PM
It's a 2008 ford focus. I'm trying to figure out whether it comes under the warranty or not since it is connected to the engine. Dealer says it isn't but he was happy to sort out suspension parts for me after it failed the n.c.t even though he said the warranty only covers main engine parts and the gearbox. However with this it just seems he doesn't want to do it. As to where the pipe is the mechanic i took it to yesterday couldn't pin point where the damage is and said it could be a few different places. They would need to go digging hence the few hours labour they told me it would be.
I'm no mechanic but if they are replacing the pipe why does this matter?
It doesn't really but denn asked where it was and i'm not totally sure. Think it is down the right hand side of the engine as you look in.
If it is still in the warranty period then he needs to cover it. Mention the sale of goods act and consumer's rights. Watch him jump then!
Quote from: GJL on December 12, 2014, 03:48:53 PM
Quote from: andoireabu on December 12, 2014, 03:33:32 PM
Quote from: TabClear on December 12, 2014, 03:04:35 PM
Quote from: andoireabu on December 12, 2014, 02:57:44 PM
It's a 2008 ford focus. I'm trying to figure out whether it comes under the warranty or not since it is connected to the engine. Dealer says it isn't but he was happy to sort out suspension parts for me after it failed the n.c.t even though he said the warranty only covers main engine parts and the gearbox. However with this it just seems he doesn't want to do it. As to where the pipe is the mechanic i took it to yesterday couldn't pin point where the damage is and said it could be a few different places. They would need to go digging hence the few hours labour they told me it would be.
I'm no mechanic but if they are replacing the pipe why does this matter?
It doesn't really but denn asked where it was and i'm not totally sure. Think it is down the right hand side of the engine as you look in.
If it is still in the warranty period then he needs to cover it. Mention the sale of goods act and consumer's rights. Watch him jump then!
That's what i like to hear! Could the warranty he offers exclude things though or is there a general warranty that covers cars. I know consumables aren't covered but this isn't a consumable.
Quote from: andoireabu on December 12, 2014, 04:00:03 PM
Quote from: GJL on December 12, 2014, 03:48:53 PM
Quote from: andoireabu on December 12, 2014, 03:33:32 PM
Quote from: TabClear on December 12, 2014, 03:04:35 PM
Quote from: andoireabu on December 12, 2014, 02:57:44 PM
It's a 2008 ford focus. I'm trying to figure out whether it comes under the warranty or not since it is connected to the engine. Dealer says it isn't but he was happy to sort out suspension parts for me after it failed the n.c.t even though he said the warranty only covers main engine parts and the gearbox. However with this it just seems he doesn't want to do it. As to where the pipe is the mechanic i took it to yesterday couldn't pin point where the damage is and said it could be a few different places. They would need to go digging hence the few hours labour they told me it would be.
I'm no mechanic but if they are replacing the pipe why does this matter?
It doesn't really but denn asked where it was and i'm not totally sure. Think it is down the right hand side of the engine as you look in.
If it is still in the warranty period then he needs to cover it. Mention the sale of goods act and consumer's rights. Watch him jump then!
That's what i like to hear! Could the warranty he offers exclude things though or is there a general warranty that covers cars. I know consumables aren't covered but this isn't a consumable.
The car is not performing as it should therefore is not fit for the purpose for which it was sold. This applies for 6 months after purchase. He will know this if he is a proper dealer. Tell him you want it fixed or else... (I really should be charging for my advise! :P)
Quote from: GJL on December 12, 2014, 04:04:53 PM
Quote from: andoireabu on December 12, 2014, 04:00:03 PM
Quote from: GJL on December 12, 2014, 03:48:53 PM
Quote from: andoireabu on December 12, 2014, 03:33:32 PM
Quote from: TabClear on December 12, 2014, 03:04:35 PM
Quote from: andoireabu on December 12, 2014, 02:57:44 PM
It's a 2008 ford focus. I'm trying to figure out whether it comes under the warranty or not since it is connected to the engine. Dealer says it isn't but he was happy to sort out suspension parts for me after it failed the n.c.t even though he said the warranty only covers main engine parts and the gearbox. However with this it just seems he doesn't want to do it. As to where the pipe is the mechanic i took it to yesterday couldn't pin point where the damage is and said it could be a few different places. They would need to go digging hence the few hours labour they told me it would be.
I'm no mechanic but if they are replacing the pipe why does this matter?
It doesn't really but denn asked where it was and i'm not totally sure. Think it is down the right hand side of the engine as you look in.
If it is still in the warranty period then he needs to cover it. Mention the sale of goods act and consumer's rights. Watch him jump then!
That's what i like to hear! Could the warranty he offers exclude things though or is there a general warranty that covers cars. I know consumables aren't covered but this isn't a consumable.
The car is not performing as it should therefore is not fit for the purpose for which it was sold. This applies for 6 months after purchase. He will know this if he is a proper dealer. Tell him you want it fixed or else... (I really should be charging for my advise! :P)
Gentleman. Thanks very much.
Quote from: andoireabu on December 12, 2014, 04:08:34 PM
Quote from: GJL on December 12, 2014, 04:04:53 PM
Quote from: andoireabu on December 12, 2014, 04:00:03 PM
Quote from: GJL on December 12, 2014, 03:48:53 PM
Quote from: andoireabu on December 12, 2014, 03:33:32 PM
Quote from: TabClear on December 12, 2014, 03:04:35 PM
Quote from: andoireabu on December 12, 2014, 02:57:44 PM
It's a 2008 ford focus. I'm trying to figure out whether it comes under the warranty or not since it is connected to the engine. Dealer says it isn't but he was happy to sort out suspension parts for me after it failed the n.c.t even though he said the warranty only covers main engine parts and the gearbox. However with this it just seems he doesn't want to do it. As to where the pipe is the mechanic i took it to yesterday couldn't pin point where the damage is and said it could be a few different places. They would need to go digging hence the few hours labour they told me it would be.
I'm no mechanic but if they are replacing the pipe why does this matter?
It doesn't really but denn asked where it was and i'm not totally sure. Think it is down the right hand side of the engine as you look in.
If it is still in the warranty period then he needs to cover it. Mention the sale of goods act and consumer's rights. Watch him jump then!
That's what i like to hear! Could the warranty he offers exclude things though or is there a general warranty that covers cars. I know consumables aren't covered but this isn't a consumable.
The car is not performing as it should therefore is not fit for the purpose for which it was sold. This applies for 6 months after purchase. He will know this if he is a proper dealer. Tell him you want it fixed or else... (I really should be charging for my advise! :P)
Gentleman. Thanks very much.
Never a truer word spoken! You need to be careful GJL, you will have the mechanic's mafia after you for breaking the Omerta! ;)
Quote from: GJL on December 10, 2014, 09:53:51 PM
Quote from: laoislad on December 10, 2014, 09:04:35 PM
Quote from: GJL on December 09, 2014, 03:47:46 PM
Quote from: laoislad on December 09, 2014, 02:15:04 PM
Quote from: GJL on November 28, 2014, 06:17:02 PM
Quote from: laoislad on November 28, 2014, 05:12:57 PM
Quote from: GJL on November 28, 2014, 05:12:13 PM
Quote from: laoislad on November 28, 2014, 05:10:59 PM
So how much you talking price wise to fix?
I hate dealing with mechanics....they are nearly as bad as Electricians!!
f**k we are not that bad!! ;)
Is it an A4 you drive?
Yeah an A4.
The kit is about £500 plus VAT then a day to fit.
Got car fixed yesterday. It was the clutch and something called a slave cylinder. He said the fly wheel was in good nick and didn't need replacing.
€500 for everything
Good stuff LL. If the slave cylinder was gone did your pedal feel a bit spongey? How many miles is on your car?
120,000 KM so about 74k miles?
At that mileage I would expect the flywheel to still be ok. Good for at least 100k miles but so should the clutch and associated hydrolics. I hope this is the end of your bother.
Hopefully. If it lasts another 12 months or so it will do. Will be thinking of trading in then. I like the look of the 5 series Estate.
Quote from: laoislad on December 12, 2014, 05:46:21 PM
Quote from: GJL on December 10, 2014, 09:53:51 PM
Quote from: laoislad on December 10, 2014, 09:04:35 PM
Quote from: GJL on December 09, 2014, 03:47:46 PM
Quote from: laoislad on December 09, 2014, 02:15:04 PM
Quote from: GJL on November 28, 2014, 06:17:02 PM
Quote from: laoislad on November 28, 2014, 05:12:57 PM
Quote from: GJL on November 28, 2014, 05:12:13 PM
Quote from: laoislad on November 28, 2014, 05:10:59 PM
So how much you talking price wise to fix?
I hate dealing with mechanics....they are nearly as bad as Electricians!!
f**k we are not that bad!! ;)
Is it an A4 you drive?
Yeah an A4.
The kit is about £500 plus VAT then a day to fit.
Got car fixed yesterday. It was the clutch and something called a slave cylinder. He said the fly wheel was in good nick and didn't need replacing.
€500 for everything
Good stuff LL. If the slave cylinder was gone did your pedal feel a bit spongey? How many miles is on your car?
120,000 KM so about 74k miles?
At that mileage I would expect the flywheel to still be ok. Good for at least 100k miles but so should the clutch and associated hydrolics. I hope this is the end of your bother.
Hopefully. If it lasts another 12 months or so it will do. Will be thinking of trading in then. I like the look of the 5 series Estate.
Nice looking car alright but the A6 avante would be superior and would be in the same price range.
Just noticed last night that my wipers are sticking when put into the really fast setting. They are working fine in the other two settings. Only after getting my windscreen replaced last week, would this have anything to do with it?
Quote from: nrico2006 on January 08, 2015, 11:43:02 AM
Just noticed last night that my wipers are sticking when put into the really fast setting. They are working fine in the other two settings. Only after getting my windscreen replaced last week, would this have anything to do with it?
Yep. They probably have not been put back on in exactly the same position. Get onto who ever fitted the screen and they should sort it.
Quote from: GJL on January 08, 2015, 12:21:12 PM
Quote from: nrico2006 on January 08, 2015, 11:43:02 AM
Just noticed last night that my wipers are sticking when put into the really fast setting. They are working fine in the other two settings. Only after getting my windscreen replaced last week, would this have anything to do with it?
Yep. They probably have not been put back on in exactly the same position. Get onto who ever fitted the screen and they should sort it.
Thanks GJL.
Hi was wondering if anyone would have an answer for the following,when i push my indicator up/down the lights dont work but when i hold it inbetween off and fully on they work fine??
Quote from: bigfrank on January 08, 2015, 02:26:06 PM
Hi was wondering if anyone would have an answer for the following,when i push my indicator up/down the lights dont work but when i hold it inbetween off and fully on they work fine??
Reminds me of the two bucks in Kerry. One lad asks the other to stand behind the car and check if the indicators are working. ""Yep-No-Yep-No-Yep-No"
Quote from: bigfrank on January 08, 2015, 02:26:06 PM
Hi was wondering if anyone would have an answer for the following,when i push my indicator up/down the lights dont work but when i hold it inbetween off and fully on they work fine??
Switch is fooked.
anyone know where I might be able to pick up a power steering hose (from steering rack to pump) for a 2006 A4 2.0 TDi?
I think the part number is 8E244893AT.
Audi are looking almost £300 scoobies for it FFS.
check this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUDI-VW-SKODA-SUPERB-1-9TDI-POWER-STEERING-RACK-FLUID-PIPE-HOSE-2006-/221667884280?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item339c6f7cf8
Driving the OH's 2008 Seat Leon the other night and it gave a loud bang out of it and stopped dead. Got a local mechanic to collect it and have a look. He says the engine is fecked and needs a new one - less than 70,000 miles on the clock
I've been having a google and it seems its a known problem with BXE engines fitted to 07/08 leons.
Has anyone any experience of it happening? Trying to figure out if its worth replacing it and hoping it doesn't happen on the next engine or selling it as it is.
Will cost around £1800-1900 to replace I'm told
If you are going for a new engine a BKC is the one to go for apparently, The BXE is notorious for throwing a leg out. Try Quigg Bros.
What would the symptoms of a broken/damaged steering rack?
I suspect there would be alot of play in the steering and possibly a cracking noise when turn on a full lock.
car starter is makes a whizzing/whirling sound sometimes and doesn't turn over. then I try it again and it starts ok. it is getting more frequent now maybe once a day. any ideas. diesel car
Yes, you will soon require a new starter for your car so start saving as they're not cheap. I replaced mine recently and it was about £140 (Toyota)
My car was making that noise when i went to start it it the cold weather few weeks ago, had a fair idea it was the starter but it hasn't happened for a while now(touch wood)
Car failed its MOT, Brakes discs and pads. confirmed safe to drive, they quoted £250 repair. Is this a fair price?
Can anybody recommend somewhere to get a tow bar fitted in Dungannon / Armagh / Portdaown area?
Has anyone ever experienced this?
Came out of work this afternoon to find all 4 windows had opened fully by themselves.
This is the second time it has happened, the last being over a year ago, but seeing as it seemed to be a once off my mechanic said not to worry about it.
I'm lucky that it's a secure car park at work, but worried about this happening anywhere else!
Would the heat have had some kind of effect today? But then again it's not happened on equally hot or hotter days before.
btw the car was locked, but the alarm didn't go off which also surprised me.
It's a 2007 Jetta.
You probaby have "comfort close" windows on your car and if you keep your key in your pocket you are activating it inadvertently.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LW7VwJIRK1g
Quote from: on the sideline on April 23, 2015, 12:02:11 AM
Has anyone ever experienced this?
Came out of work this afternoon to find all 4 windows had opened fully by themselves.
This is the second time it has happened, the last being over a year ago, but seeing as it seemed to be a once off my mechanic said not to worry about it.
I'm lucky that it's a secure car park at work, but worried about this happening anywhere else!
Would the heat have had some kind of effect today? But then again it's not happened on equally hot or hotter days before.
btw the car was locked, but the alarm didn't go off which also surprised me.
It's a 2007 Jetta.
Where was the key at the time. Pressing and holding down the unlock button on your key will start to put the windows down until they are fully down or you release it. Holding the lock button down puts them up again. Any chance you might have accidentally pressed this while the keys where in your pocket or else where?
Quote from: 93-DY-SAM on April 23, 2015, 02:24:04 PM
Quote from: on the sideline on April 23, 2015, 12:02:11 AM
Has anyone ever experienced this?
Came out of work this afternoon to find all 4 windows had opened fully by themselves.
This is the second time it has happened, the last being over a year ago, but seeing as it seemed to be a once off my mechanic said not to worry about it.
I'm lucky that it's a secure car park at work, but worried about this happening anywhere else!
Would the heat have had some kind of effect today? But then again it's not happened on equally hot or hotter days before.
btw the car was locked, but the alarm didn't go off which also surprised me.
It's a 2007 Jetta.
Where was the key at the time. Pressing and holding down the unlock button on your key will start to put the windows down until they are fully down or you release it. Holding the lock button down puts them up again. Any chance you might have accidentally pressed this while the keys where in your pocket or else where?
Yeah this must be what happened, or at least I hope it was anyway! Never knew the car had this feature, but tried it today and worked as you said. Thanks for the help! And Agent Orange too!
Quote from: on the sideline on April 23, 2015, 07:09:57 PM
Quote from: 93-DY-SAM on April 23, 2015, 02:24:04 PM
Quote from: on the sideline on April 23, 2015, 12:02:11 AM
Has anyone ever experienced this?
Came out of work this afternoon to find all 4 windows had opened fully by themselves.
This is the second time it has happened, the last being over a year ago, but seeing as it seemed to be a once off my mechanic said not to worry about it.
I'm lucky that it's a secure car park at work, but worried about this happening anywhere else!
Would the heat have had some kind of effect today? But then again it's not happened on equally hot or hotter days before.
btw the car was locked, but the alarm didn't go off which also surprised me.
It's a 2007 Jetta.
Where was the key at the time. Pressing and holding down the unlock button on your key will start to put the windows down until they are fully down or you release it. Holding the lock button down puts them up again. Any chance you might have accidentally pressed this while the keys where in your pocket or else where?
Yeah this must be what happened, or at least I hope it was anyway! Never knew the car had this feature, but tried it today and worked as you said. Thanks for the help! And Agent Orange too!
I found my old car completely soaked inside as a result of this.
Next time in the garage get them to de-activate this feature which I believe is only a matter of moving a switch or a breaker.
Well done to Tyrone's Kris Meeke on winning Rally Argintena. It is his first win in the WRC. He is a great lad and I'm delighted for him. 🚗🚗🚗. Also a great result for his co-driver Paul Nagle from Kerry.
Car had not been drove for a few days. Got into it earlier started it, engine turned over and then it died. Took me another 4 tries to get it going again. If it's driven everyday no bother starting it the next day but can't seem to leave it sitting for any greater period of time. Vauxhall Vectra 2.2 diesel.
Quote from: BenDover on May 05, 2015, 08:52:44 PM
Car had not been drove for a few days. Got into it earlier started it, engine turned over and then it died. Took me another 4 tries to get it going again. If it's driven everyday no bother starting it the next day but can't seem to leave it sitting for any greater period of time. Vauxhall Vectra 2.2 diesel.
What age is the battery?
Quote from: BenDover on May 05, 2015, 08:52:44 PM
Car had not been drove for a few days. Got into it earlier started it, engine turned over and then it died. Took me another 4 tries to get it going again. If it's driven everyday no bother starting it the next day but can't seem to leave it sitting for any greater period of time. Vauxhall Vectra 2.2 diesel.
Sounds like a bit of air is getting into the diesel system and you are having to turn it over to bleed the air out.
Quote from: armaghniac on May 05, 2015, 09:00:07 PM
Quote from: BenDover on May 05, 2015, 08:52:44 PM
Car had not been drove for a few days. Got into it earlier started it, engine turned over and then it died. Took me another 4 tries to get it going again. If it's driven everyday no bother starting it the next day but can't seem to leave it sitting for any greater period of time. Vauxhall Vectra 2.2 diesel.
What age is the battery?
Just changed it to a new one a few weeks ago
Quote from: GJL on May 05, 2015, 09:02:39 PM
Quote from: BenDover on May 05, 2015, 08:52:44 PM
Car had not been drove for a few days. Got into it earlier started it, engine turned over and then it died. Took me another 4 tries to get it going again. If it's driven everyday no bother starting it the next day but can't seem to leave it sitting for any greater period of time. Vauxhall Vectra 2.2 diesel.
Sounds like a bit of air is getting into the diesel system and you are having to turn it over to bleed the air out.
Anything I should be looking at getting my mechanic to specifically check for this?
Quote from: BenDover on May 05, 2015, 09:03:55 PM
Quote from: armaghniac on May 05, 2015, 09:00:07 PM
Quote from: BenDover on May 05, 2015, 08:52:44 PM
Car had not been drove for a few days. Got into it earlier started it, engine turned over and then it died. Took me another 4 tries to get it going again. If it's driven everyday no bother starting it the next day but can't seem to leave it sitting for any greater period of time. Vauxhall Vectra 2.2 diesel.
What age is the battery?
Just changed it to a new one a few weeks ago
Was the car serviced at the same time?
No car was serviced last June, changed the battery myself.
OK. It may be a bit of air getting in but I remember having a vectra doing something similar before and it turned out to be the starter motor. It was not turning the engine over at a high enough rpm so took a while to fire up.
Hi, does anyone know if Bull/Nudge bars are illegal or if the effect your insurance premium?
i believe i need to use EU certified ones. Living in the south.
Quote from: snoopdog on May 06, 2015, 12:12:31 PM
Hi, does anyone know if Bull/Nudge bars are illegal or if the effect your insurance premium?
i believe i need to use EU certified ones. Living in the south.
Why would you want them? Do you live in a caravan?
Quote from: Agent Orange on May 06, 2015, 05:47:11 PM
Quote from: snoopdog on May 06, 2015, 12:12:31 PM
Hi, does anyone know if Bull/Nudge bars are illegal or if the effect your insurance premium?
i believe i need to use EU certified ones. Living in the south.
Why would you want them? Do you live in a caravan?
nah they just enhance the look of the motor i think.
Another silly question can you reregister a car in the south for example if you buy a kerry reg can you re reg it in Galway and how much do the charge for that?
Anyone know of anywhere that does gearbox repairs?
I've a 105bhp 5 speed VW that's near impossible to get into first and second. Rest of gears are fine. New clutch and flywheel just fitted which didn't resolve issue
Quote from: snoopdog on May 07, 2015, 11:18:06 AM
Quote from: Agent Orange on May 06, 2015, 05:47:11 PM
Quote from: snoopdog on May 06, 2015, 12:12:31 PM
Hi, does anyone know if Bull/Nudge bars are illegal or if the effect your insurance premium?
i believe i need to use EU certified ones. Living in the south.
Why would you want them? Do you live in a caravan?
nah they just enhance the look of the motor i think.
Another silly question can you reregister a car in the south for example if you buy a kerry reg can you re reg it in Galway and how much do the charge for that?
At a cost of eliminating crumple zones and making your vehicle more dangerous. IIRC they were banned in some jurisdictions as studies showed a pedestrian was likely to be more seriously injured if hit by a vehicle with bull bars.
Quote from: LeoMc on May 15, 2015, 08:09:32 AM
Quote from: snoopdog on May 07, 2015, 11:18:06 AM
Quote from: Agent Orange on May 06, 2015, 05:47:11 PM
Quote from: snoopdog on May 06, 2015, 12:12:31 PM
Hi, does anyone know if Bull/Nudge bars are illegal or if the effect your insurance premium?
i believe i need to use EU certified ones. Living in the south.
Why would you want them? Do you live in a caravan?
nah they just enhance the look of the motor i think.
Another silly question can you reregister a car in the south for example if you buy a kerry reg can you re reg it in Galway and how much do the charge for that?
At a cost of eliminating crumple zones and making your vehicle more dangerous. IIRC they were banned in some jurisdictions as studies showed a pedestrian was likely to be more seriously injured if hit by a vehicle with bull bars.
Provided you fit a legal one with a proper compliance certificate you are absolutely fine. These have been properly designed and crash tested. DONT fit uncertified ones and DO tell your insurance company that they are fitted and you will have no problems.
Quote from: Franko on May 15, 2015, 09:20:59 AM
Provided you fit a legal one with a proper compliance certificate you are absolutely fine. These have been properly designed and crash tested. DONT fit uncertified ones and DO tell your insurance company that they are fitted and you will have no problems.
I'm sure that would be of great comfort to the family of the child who has the misfortune step out in front of this aesthetically enhanced vehicle. Not having kangaroos or other such animals obstructing traffic, anyone fitting these things in this country is an irresponsible idiot and shouldn't be allowed out in anything more dangerous than a toy scooter.
Quote from: Ulick on May 15, 2015, 10:30:50 AM
Not having kangaroos or other such animals obstructing traffic, anyone fitting these things in this country is an irresponsible idiot and shouldn't be allowed out in anything more dangerous than a toy scooter.
I drive a Toyota Verso (
sans Bullbars). On Monday I hit a pigeon (no kangaroos down our way) and the fcuker damaged the front grill.
/Jim.
QuoteNot having kangaroos or other such animals obstructing traffic, anyone fitting these things in this country is an irresponsible idiot
http://www.belfasttelegraph.co.uk/news/northern-ireland/kangaroo-reported-on-the-loose-in-co-tyrone-31224901.html
Quote from: awideisneverasgood on May 15, 2015, 12:58:50 PM
QuoteNot having kangaroos or other such animals obstructing traffic, anyone fitting these things in this country is an irresponsible idiot
http://www.belfasttelegraph.co.uk/news/northern-ireland/kangaroo-reported-on-the-loose-in-co-tyrone-31224901.html
I take it all back!
Quote from: Ulick on May 15, 2015, 01:29:53 PM
Quote from: awideisneverasgood on May 15, 2015, 12:58:50 PM
QuoteNot having kangaroos or other such animals obstructing traffic, anyone fitting these things in this country is an irresponsible idiot
http://www.belfasttelegraph.co.uk/news/northern-ireland/kangaroo-reported-on-the-loose-in-co-tyrone-31224901.html
I take it all back!
Ha ha classic. We all need them know. Feckin kangaroos
Went to start the car for the school run this morning and practically nothing, radio came on and a few lights, was driving ok yesterday - looked under bonnet took all the plastic shite off and battery was corroded as hell, disconnected battery - cleaned all the shite off and now when i reconnect it just makes a knocking sound like its trying to start even know engine is switched off, and the alarm roars, so have disconnected it again, I take it I need a new battery? If I get one and reconnect would it need jump started or should it work first time? It is a 2005 Toyota Avensis.
Quote from: topcuppla on May 21, 2015, 09:44:11 AM
Went to start the car for the school run this morning and practically nothing, radio came on and a few lights, was driving ok yesterday - looked under bonnet took all the plastic shite off and battery was corroded as hell, disconnected battery - cleaned all the shite off and now when i reconnect it just makes a knocking sound like its trying to start even know engine is switched off, and the alarm roars, so have disconnected it again, I take it I need a new battery? If I get one and reconnect would it need jump started or should it work first time? It is a 2005 Toyota Avensis.
I blame the Gays.
Quote from: laoislad on May 21, 2015, 09:56:52 AM
Quote from: topcuppla on May 21, 2015, 09:44:11 AM
Went to start the car for the school run this morning and practically nothing, radio came on and a few lights, was driving ok yesterday - looked under bonnet took all the plastic shite off and battery was corroded as hell, disconnected battery - cleaned all the shite off and now when i reconnect it just makes a knocking sound like its trying to start even know engine is switched off, and the alarm roars, so have disconnected it again, I take it I need a new battery? If I get one and reconnect would it need jump started or should it work first time? It is a 2005 Toyota Avensis.
I blame the Gays.
It's amazing how derogatory some people can be about homosexual individuals, unless you are trying to be somehow witty or come across as clever, in which case you have failed miserably, wonder if AZ would classify you as sneering, I certainly would say you are being disrespectful to the gay community trying to get a cheap laugh at their expense and people talk on here about irony. Jesus wept.
It should start straight away,
Quote from: topcuppla on May 21, 2015, 10:15:57 AM
Quote from: laoislad on May 21, 2015, 09:56:52 AM
Quote from: topcuppla on May 21, 2015, 09:44:11 AM
Went to start the car for the school run this morning and practically nothing, radio came on and a few lights, was driving ok yesterday - looked under bonnet took all the plastic shite off and battery was corroded as hell, disconnected battery - cleaned all the shite off and now when i reconnect it just makes a knocking sound like its trying to start even know engine is switched off, and the alarm roars, so have disconnected it again, I take it I need a new battery? If I get one and reconnect would it need jump started or should it work first time? It is a 2005 Toyota Avensis.
I blame the Gays.
It's amazing how derogatory some people can be about homosexual individuals, unless you are trying to be somehow witty or come across as clever, in which case you have failed miserably, wonder if AZ would classify you as sneering, I certainly would say you are being disrespectful to the gay community trying to get a cheap laugh at their expense and people talk on here about irony. Jesus wept.
What about all the Tony Fearoners? You weren't considering them when you delivered your throw away exclamation were you?
I would have used "shut that door!" myself. Its important not to offend the sensibilities of the Fearoners when making your points on homosexuality.
.... trying to be witty btw
Quote from: Denn Forever on May 21, 2015, 10:20:51 AM
It should start straight away,
Thanks, my brother is going get one and bring it around this evening, hopefully it starts.
Quote
Went to start the car for the school run this morning and practically nothing, radio came on and a few lights, was driving ok yesterday - looked under bonnet took all the plastic shite off and battery was corroded as hell, disconnected battery - cleaned all the shite off and now when i reconnect it just makes a knocking sound like its trying to start even know engine is switched off, and the alarm roars, so have disconnected it again, I take it I need a new battery? If I get one and reconnect would it need jump started or should it work first time? It is a 2005 Toyota Avensis.
I blame the Gays.
It's amazing how derogatory some people can be about homosexual individuals, unless you are trying to be somehow witty or come across as clever, in which case you have failed miserably, wonder if AZ would classify you as sneering, I certainly would say you are being disrespectful to the gay community trying to get a cheap laugh at their expense and people talk on here about irony. Jesus wept.
Relax Topcuppla. I don't think Laoislad was really blaming the gay community or being derogatory to them, rather he was having a pop at the DUP who blame gays for everything that's wrong with society today.
Personally however I blame the Judean People's Front.
Quote from: topcuppla on May 21, 2015, 10:15:57 AM
Quote from: laoislad on May 21, 2015, 09:56:52 AM
Quote from: topcuppla on May 21, 2015, 09:44:11 AM
Went to start the car for the school run this morning and practically nothing, radio came on and a few lights, was driving ok yesterday - looked under bonnet took all the plastic shite off and battery was corroded as hell, disconnected battery - cleaned all the shite off and now when i reconnect it just makes a knocking sound like its trying to start even know engine is switched off, and the alarm roars, so have disconnected it again, I take it I need a new battery? If I get one and reconnect would it need jump started or should it work first time? It is a 2005 Toyota Avensis.
I blame the Gays.
It's amazing how derogatory some people can be about homosexual individuals, unless you are trying to be somehow witty or come across as clever, in which case you have failed miserably, wonder if AZ would classify you as sneering, I certainly would say you are being disrespectful to the gay community trying to get a cheap laugh at their expense and people talk on here about irony. Jesus wept.
;D ;D ;D
I think he succeeded magnificently.
Stop trying to start something topcuppla.
Quote from: muppet on May 21, 2015, 12:14:59 PM
Quote from: topcuppla on May 21, 2015, 10:15:57 AM
Quote from: laoislad on May 21, 2015, 09:56:52 AM
Quote from: topcuppla on May 21, 2015, 09:44:11 AM
Went to start the car for the school run this morning and practically nothing, radio came on and a few lights, was driving ok yesterday - looked under bonnet took all the plastic shite off and battery was corroded as hell, disconnected battery - cleaned all the shite off and now when i reconnect it just makes a knocking sound like its trying to start even know engine is switched off, and the alarm roars, so have disconnected it again, I take it I need a new battery? If I get one and reconnect would it need jump started or should it work first time? It is a 2005 Toyota Avensis.
I blame the Gays.
It's amazing how derogatory some people can be about homosexual individuals, unless you are trying to be somehow witty or come across as clever, in which case you have failed miserably, wonder if AZ would classify you as sneering, I certainly would say you are being disrespectful to the gay community trying to get a cheap laugh at their expense and people talk on here about irony. Jesus wept.
;D ;D ;D
I think he succeeded magnificently.
(http://www.bloomberg.com/ss/08/09/0918_best_brands/image/74-kleenex.jpg)
Take it you need a few, help yourself hopefully your keyboard was spared.
Hi can I just check is a Engine management light on a fail for the MOT? I thought it was but I've been very kindly told by a garage that it isn't? The ERG valve is causing the problem, I think it needs cleaned out/ replaced. But it's not causing any issues with performance. Have an upcoming MOT and was wondering do I need to rush this through or can it wait until after the MOT?
Quote from: trueblue1234 on May 28, 2015, 01:52:42 PM
Hi can I just check is a Engine management light on a fail for the MOT? I thought it was but I've been very kindly told by a garage that it isn't? The ERG valve is causing the problem, I think it needs cleaned out/ replaced. But it's not causing any issues with performance. Have an upcoming MOT and was wondering do I need to rush this through or can it wait until after the MOT?
Def NOT a fail.
Quote from: GJL on May 28, 2015, 01:54:04 PM
Quote from: trueblue1234 on May 28, 2015, 01:52:42 PM
Hi can I just check is a Engine management light on a fail for the MOT? I thought it was but I've been very kindly told by a garage that it isn't? The ERG valve is causing the problem, I think it needs cleaned out/ replaced. But it's not causing any issues with performance. Have an upcoming MOT and was wondering do I need to rush this through or can it wait until after the MOT?
Def NOT a fail.
+1
Cheers. Is the ERG likely to cause any additional trouble to the car if it's not fixed quickly?
Quote from: theskull1 on May 28, 2015, 01:54:54 PM
Quote from: GJL on May 28, 2015, 01:54:04 PM
Quote from: trueblue1234 on May 28, 2015, 01:52:42 PM
Hi can I just check is a Engine management light on a fail for the MOT? I thought it was but I've been very kindly told by a garage that it isn't? The ERG valve is causing the problem, I think it needs cleaned out/ replaced. But it's not causing any issues with performance. Have an upcoming MOT and was wondering do I need to rush this through or can it wait until after the MOT?
Def NOT a fail.
+1
My engine management light's been on for the last 2 tests and not a word about it
Theres been like a chugging rubbing noise coming from front of my car this past week or two. More like a slow chugging noise more than anything else. Cars a bit sluggish but nothing out of the ordinary. It feels like im driving on a bumpy road all the time though.
Anyone any ideas?
I've recently changed from a petrol to a diesel and it's coming up to servicing time so I need some advice
I've previously serviced (basic stuff like filters, plugs, brake pads) my petrol motor - what's different with servicing a diesel? Obviously no plugs but is there something additional that needs to be done periodically? Once I know what to service, I presume I'd be able to get enough from youtube to do the job
Thanks
The wife's Toureg has something funny going on with the drivers door. It will close fine most of the time but now and again the catch mechanism is already engaged and bangs against the metal post. You then need to pull the handle and release it manually with your fingers. Any idea what's wrong?
Quote from: StGallsGAA on June 06, 2015, 02:42:45 PM
The wife's Toureg has something funny going on with the drivers door. It will close fine most of the time but now and again the catch mechanism is already engaged and bangs against the metal post. You then need to pull the handle and release it manually with your fingers. Any idea what's wrong?
Yeah it's a Toureg.
07 Passat 2.0 nothing but torture
need electric handbrake changed and or back right caliper replaced
much we talking?
Have a bad rattle coming from my exhaust - dropped it into a kwik fit just to see if it could be an easy fix!! told me that the backets are all rusted and have boken off! And that I need a whole new back section (£240) I would have thought you could just get new brackets, and will this cause it to faile MOT? Cheers
This seems to have turned into a thread that's heavy on problems but light on advice! :/
Quote from: majestic on June 16, 2015, 11:56:24 AM
Have a bad rattle coming from my exhaust - dropped it into a kwik fit just to see if it could be an easy fix!! told me that the backets are all rusted and have boken off! And that I need a whole new back section (£240) I would have thought you could just get new brackets, and will this cause it to faile MOT? Cheers
Has happened to me with the back box hanger breaking off, luckily the metal on the bracket and the silencer was solid enough to do a weld repair. Because of thr zinc coating on the exhaust the mig welder wire needs to be flux cored and used with shield gas also for a solid job. Fixed my Mk4 to do me a week or 2, that was 8 months ago. Will probably fall off today though.
Hi 2000 ford focus failed it's NCT tonight with high and low idle emissions . Low idle co 0.84 vol% high idle co 0.44 vol%. Is there any quick fox for this? Known reason. As I say it's 15 yrs old and I don't want to spend a fortune on this. If o can do a quick fix to get it through for another year happy enough.
Car is starting fine most mornings. On the odd occasion when I turn the key its taking 2/3 seconds for it to start. Sometimes it doesn't and I have to turn it again and it goes no bother. Is there any easy way to determine if this is the battery or starter? This car is only drove Monday to Friday, 7 miles in the morning and 7 in the evening which apaprently isn't good for batteries.
Not an expert on this but you can use a multimeter to check the battery easily enough but I'm not sure excatly what you'd need to check - presumably the charge before you start it. Should be around 13.4 or 13.5 for a fully charged battery. If it's quite low, that might be your problem.
If there's another car in the house, you can switch batteries and see if the problem moves with the battery.
If it's a diesel car, it could be the glow plugs?
Quote from: nrico2006 on July 10, 2015, 08:39:13 AM
Car is starting fine most mornings. On the odd occasion when I turn the key its taking 2/3 seconds for it to start. Sometimes it doesn't and I have to turn it again and it goes no bother. Is there any easy way to determine if this is the battery or starter? This car is only drove Monday to Friday, 7 miles in the morning and 7 in the evening which apaprently isn't good for batteries.
Is the car turning over but not starting?
Quote from: GJL on July 10, 2015, 09:17:30 AM
Quote from: nrico2006 on July 10, 2015, 08:39:13 AM
Car is starting fine most mornings. On the odd occasion when I turn the key its taking 2/3 seconds for it to start. Sometimes it doesn't and I have to turn it again and it goes no bother. Is there any easy way to determine if this is the battery or starter? This car is only drove Monday to Friday, 7 miles in the morning and 7 in the evening which apaprently isn't good for batteries.
Is the car turning over but not starting?
A lot of the time it turns over straight away and starts. Some times its turning over for 3-5 seconds before it starts and the odd time it turns overs but doesn't start (but on second attempt it starts ok).
Quote from: nrico2006 on July 10, 2015, 09:22:48 AM
Quote from: GJL on July 10, 2015, 09:17:30 AM
Quote from: nrico2006 on July 10, 2015, 08:39:13 AM
Car is starting fine most mornings. On the odd occasion when I turn the key its taking 2/3 seconds for it to start. Sometimes it doesn't and I have to turn it again and it goes no bother. Is there any easy way to determine if this is the battery or starter? This car is only drove Monday to Friday, 7 miles in the morning and 7 in the evening which apaprently isn't good for batteries.
Is the car turning over but not starting?
I have seen poor quality diesel cause this. The next time you are empty put in £30 to £40 of BP Ultimate Diesel and see how it goes.
A lot of the time it turns over straight away and starts. Some times its turning over for 3-5 seconds before it starts and the odd time it turns overs but doesn't start (but on second attempt it starts ok).
Quote from: GJL on July 10, 2015, 09:26:49 AM
Quote from: nrico2006 on July 10, 2015, 09:22:48 AM
Quote from: GJL on July 10, 2015, 09:17:30 AM
Quote from: nrico2006 on July 10, 2015, 08:39:13 AM
Car is starting fine most mornings. On the odd occasion when I turn the key its taking 2/3 seconds for it to start. Sometimes it doesn't and I have to turn it again and it goes no bother. Is there any easy way to determine if this is the battery or starter? This car is only drove Monday to Friday, 7 miles in the morning and 7 in the evening which apaprently isn't good for batteries.
Is the car turning over but not starting?
I have seen poor quality diesel cause this. The next time you are empty put in £30 to £40 of BP Ultimate Diesel and see how it goes.
A lot of the time it turns over straight away and starts. Some times its turning over for 3-5 seconds before it starts and the odd time it turns overs but doesn't start (but on second attempt it starts ok).
Thanks, although its petrol. The other car is a diesel, would it be possible to simply switch batteries to test or would they be too different? Is there any obvious way of telling the difference between a starter starting to go or a battery starting to go?
Quote from: macdanger2 on July 10, 2015, 09:08:06 AM
Not an expert on this but you can use a multimeter to check the battery easily enough but I'm not sure excatly what you'd need to check - presumably the charge before you start it. Should be around 13.4 or 13.5 for a fully charged battery. If it's quite low, that might be your problem.
If there's another car in the house, you can switch batteries and see if the problem moves with the battery.
If it's a diesel car, it could be the glow plugs?
Thanks - was thinking of getting a multimeter. The other car has all that information on the trip computer which makes diagnostics easier.
Quote from: snoopdog on July 09, 2015, 10:39:52 PM
Hi 2000 ford focus failed it's NCT tonight with high and low idle emissions . Low idle co 0.84 vol% high idle co 0.44 vol%. Is there any quick fox for this? Known reason. As I say it's 15 yrs old and I don't want to spend a fortune on this. If o can do a quick fix to get it through for another year happy enough.
Any ideas guys?
Quote from: snoopdog on July 10, 2015, 10:22:41 AM
Quote from: snoopdog on July 09, 2015, 10:39:52 PM
Hi 2000 ford focus failed it's NCT tonight with high and low idle emissions . Low idle co 0.84 vol% high idle co 0.44 vol%. Is there any quick fox for this? Known reason. As I say it's 15 yrs old and I don't want to spend a fortune on this. If o can do a quick fix to get it through for another year happy enough.
Any ideas guys?
have you give it a bottle of fuel cleaner? should clear it up a touch
GJL- An warning light for the airbag has come on and is staying on my dash.
Any ideas why? Its an Audi A4.
Haven't crashed it or anything before you ask ,I just noticed it was on one day.
Have NCT due next month so don't want to be failing due to this.
Quote from: laoislad on August 04, 2015, 11:51:29 AM
GJL- An warning light for the airbag has come on and is staying on my dash.
Any ideas why? Its an Audi A4.
Haven't crashed it or anything before you ask ,I just noticed it was on one day.
Have NCT due next month so don't want to be failing due to this.
You would need to get it plugged in to find out where the problem is. Likely to be a plug under one of the front seats. Usually disconnect and reconnect then reset with computer.
Quote from: laoislad on August 04, 2015, 11:51:29 AM
GJL- An warning light for the airbag has come on and is staying on my dash.
Any ideas why? Its an Audi A4.
Haven't crashed it or anything before you ask ,I just noticed it was on one day.
Have NCT due next month so don't want to be failing due to this.
Could be any number of airbag sensors/ connections.
As GJL says you need to get it plugged in to see which one.
Have you had any passengers in the back with big feet as they often dislodge a plug underneath the seat which would bring on a light.
Yeah checking under the seats would be the first port of call. I manged to dislodge one of the sensors cleaning the car one day.
Cheers lads. Will have a look later.
Would it fail an NCT because of this?
Quote from: laoislad on August 04, 2015, 01:14:58 PM
Cheers lads. Will have a look later.
Would it fail an NCT because of this?
It fails MOT up here so I would presume it will fail NCT as well :(
Hi Lads have around 2-3k to spend on a second car for lad travelling to uni,what does anyone recommend and what to avoid,have been told to look at fords and avoid renaults,seems you can pick up lateish years renaults at good money,are they that bad??
Get him a 10 yr old Toyota and you won't need to be getting it fixed every few months. He can give lifts to Uni mates on a Fri or Sun to pay for the diesel when he's coming home to get a proper feed and his clothes washed.
Buy a 306/406/xantia/zx/xsara 1.9 turbo diesel and run it on red/green/heating oil/ veggy oil, whatever you fancy and stick the leftover £1500 in your pocket.
Easy run, easy fixed and it wont ever die.
Quote from: under the bar on August 04, 2015, 08:08:29 PM
Get him a 10 yr old Toyota and you won't need to be getting it fixed every few months. He can give lifts to Uni mates on a Fri or Sun to pay for the diesel when he's coming home to get a proper feed and his clothes washed.
Yep. Toyota all the way at that price range. Never heard anyone ever griping about their Toyota car.
Dont get your cub a toyota ffs, no much of a fanny magnet so they're no
Quote from: Apparently so on August 05, 2015, 04:35:58 PM
Dont get your cub a toyota ffs, no much of a fanny magnet so they're no
plenty of fanny to be had with a coupe
Quote from: general_lee on August 05, 2015, 05:24:14 PM
Quote from: Apparently so on August 05, 2015, 04:35:58 PM
Dont get your cub a toyota ffs, no much of a fanny magnet so they're no
plenty of fanny to be had with a coupe
Itl be a ropey tin can at £2.5k! :o
Plenty of celica about. Insurance would be pricey though for a youngster. But they do look the part.
A few weeks ago I was rear ended (behave!) which did minor damage to the back bumper. The third party's assessor has written the car off (it's a 99 Almera worth about as much as a packet of crisps) but reckons a tiny bit of bodywork is more than enough to have it roadworthy, especially as I'm leaving the country in October and only need it to last me another 6/7 weeks. The car passed its NCT in April.
In order to get it back on the road, I've to have it declared roadworthy by an assessor at my own cost and send the report to my insurer.
Does anyone have any experience with this? How do I go about it? Any idea of ballpark estimates for how much it might cost for the report?
Hi GallsMan.
Should be handy enough done. Where are you based? If it's NI, I could give you a few people that might be able to do it for you. Was it a Cat C or D write of? Fee from an assessor should be £70-100 (Or rather used to be!!)
Quote from: supersarsfields on August 17, 2015, 03:25:07 PM
Hi GallsMan.
Should be handy enough done. Where are you based? If it's NI, I could give you a few people that might be able to do it for you. Was it a Cat C or D write of? Fee from an assessor should be £70-100 (Or rather used to be!!)
Cat C. Unfortunately based in south Dublin. Cheapest I can find is 125. Hopefully can get it back if I can flog it when I'm leaving.
Was wondering if anybody knew the answer to what to do with timing chains? I have a MK3 Mondeo that has a timing chain and done 94k miles. Are these meant to be changed or what?
Quote from: nrico2006 on August 26, 2015, 01:55:58 PM
Was wondering if anybody knew the answer to what to do with timing chains? I have a MK3 Mondeo that has a timing chain and done 94k miles. Are these meant to be changed or what?
From my understanding timing chains dont usually need changed, but they have been known to break. id say get your mechanic to have a quick look at it to see if he thinks its ok. i had a mazda 6 with over 90,000 miles on it and the chain was never changed. with 94k i would think your safe enough. But im not a mechanic.
Quote from: nrico2006 on August 26, 2015, 01:55:58 PM
Was wondering if anybody knew the answer to what to do with timing chains? I have a MK3 Mondeo that has a timing chain and done 94k miles. Are these meant to be changed or what?
Usually chains are good for a very high mileage like 300k. If it does 'break' it tends to be the tensioner that is at fault. Like the last poster said get your mechanic to check but it should be fine.
Quote from: snoopdog on August 26, 2015, 02:12:50 PM
Quote from: nrico2006 on August 26, 2015, 01:55:58 PM
Was wondering if anybody knew the answer to what to do with timing chains? I have a MK3 Mondeo that has a timing chain and done 94k miles. Are these meant to be changed or what?
From my understanding timing chains dont usually need changed, but they have been known to break. id say get your mechanic to have a quick look at it to see if he thinks its ok. i had a mazda 6 with over 90,000 miles on it and the chain was never changed. with 94k i would think your safe enough. But im not a mechanic.
Quote from: GJL on August 26, 2015, 02:42:05 PM
Quote from: nrico2006 on August 26, 2015, 01:55:58 PM
Was wondering if anybody knew the answer to what to do with timing chains? I have a MK3 Mondeo that has a timing chain and done 94k miles. Are these meant to be changed or what?
Usually chains are good for a very high mileage like 300k. If it does 'break' it tends to be the tensioner that is at fault. Like the last poster said get your mechanic to check but it should be fine.
Thanks lads. From anything I have read it seems to are good to go for a high number of miles and usually show symptoms of problems before they get worse. Hopefully all is ok then. Only got the belt changed on the other car done a few months back, so didn't want to fork out more for this one.
Some engines with timing chains have issues with them (excessive wear, chain tensioners failing), so good to know if your car could be one of those affected. Car forums are good to search through
BMW diesels being one of them. Have to take the engine out of the car to get to it I believe if there's a problem. BMW have a free check for for certain engine types.
Just had the engine replaced in my 10 year old bmw 116i. Am now planning on selling it on - is it essential to inform the dvla? Can I still claim the mileage to be what is on the clock even though there is a different engine in the car? Any advice would be appreciated!
Quote from: GJL on August 04, 2015, 02:15:29 PM
Quote from: laoislad on August 04, 2015, 01:14:58 PM
Cheers lads. Will have a look later.
Would it fail an NCT because of this?
It fails MOT up here so I would presume it will fail NCT as well :(
Black insulating tape is your man. Not to repair the sensor, but to hide the light :)
Someone told me about a liquid that you put in your diesel tank before an NCT to help with emissions?
Can't remember what it was called but I think its an Irish company that produces it.
Anyone?
STP is usually good for that. Don't think it's Irish tho.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/STP-PRE-MOT-2-PACK-PETROL-INJECTOR-CLEANER-TREATMENT-FUEL-ADDITIVE-EMISSION-/231137951699
Is this what your thinking? Cheap as chips on ebay.
Quote from: laoislad on September 22, 2015, 11:36:29 AM
Someone told me about a liquid that you put in your diesel tank before an NCT to help with emissions?
Can't remember what it was called but I think its an Irish company that produces it.
Anyone?
Should have bought a Volkswagen ;)
Quote from: Tony Baloney on September 22, 2015, 01:08:33 PM
Quote from: laoislad on September 22, 2015, 11:36:29 AM
Someone told me about a liquid that you put in your diesel tank before an NCT to help with emissions?
Can't remember what it was called but I think its an Irish company that produces it.
Anyone?
Should have bought a Volkswagen ;)
Happy enough with driving an Audi thanks very much..!
Anyway I found the stuff I was talking about,it's called dipetane
https://www.dipetane.com/
Quote from: laoislad on September 22, 2015, 01:16:12 PM
Quote from: Tony Baloney on September 22, 2015, 01:08:33 PM
Quote from: laoislad on September 22, 2015, 11:36:29 AM
Someone told me about a liquid that you put in your diesel tank before an NCT to help with emissions?
Can't remember what it was called but I think its an Irish company that produces it.
Anyone?
Should have bought a Volkswagen ;)
Happy enough with driving an Audi thanks very much..!
Anyway I found the stuff I was talking about,it's called dipetane
https://www.dipetane.com/
"Humour" is lost on some people :P http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-34325005 (http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-34325005)
Quote from: Tony Baloney on September 22, 2015, 01:25:36 PM
Quote from: laoislad on September 22, 2015, 01:16:12 PM
Quote from: Tony Baloney on September 22, 2015, 01:08:33 PM
Quote from: laoislad on September 22, 2015, 11:36:29 AM
Someone told me about a liquid that you put in your diesel tank before an NCT to help with emissions?
Can't remember what it was called but I think its an Irish company that produces it.
Anyone?
Should have bought a Volkswagen ;)
Happy enough with driving an Audi thanks very much..!
Anyway I found the stuff I was talking about,it's called dipetane
https://www.dipetane.com/
"Humour" is lost on some people :P http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-34325005 (http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-34325005)
You're hilarious. Have you ever considered doing stand up?
Quote from: laoislad on September 22, 2015, 01:41:01 PM
Have you ever considered doing stand up?
The Tyrone victims' chorus will be here in a flash.
Get a Toyota....
Just after getting an 'Emission Warning - Garage!' message on the car when I start it up. It's a 2007 Jetta. The engine warning light then stays on when the car is going. Is it still ok to drive? Need it tomorrow! Anyone came across this or anything like it before? Thanks.
Quote from: on the sideline on October 03, 2015, 04:16:29 PM
Just after getting an 'Emission Warning - Garage!' message on the car when I start it up. It's a 2007 Jetta. The engine warning light then stays on when the car is going. Is it still ok to drive? Need it tomorrow! Anyone came across this or anything like it before? Thanks.
Would need plugged in. Has it dropped in power? Should be OK to drive.
Quote from: GJL on October 03, 2015, 08:58:04 PM
Quote from: on the sideline on October 03, 2015, 04:16:29 PM
Just after getting an 'Emission Warning - Garage!' message on the car when I start it up. It's a 2007 Jetta. The engine warning light then stays on when the car is going. Is it still ok to drive? Need it tomorrow! Anyone came across this or anything like it before? Thanks.
Would need plugged in. Has it dropped in power? Should be OK to drive.
Yeah I have noticed an initial drop in power when I take off, but after that it seems to be driving ok. Would I need to go to a dealer to get it plugged in?
Not necessary to go to a dealer. Any decent mechanic will have the computer to do it and will charge a lot less.
Quote from: GJL on October 04, 2015, 07:46:05 PM
Not necessary to go to a dealer. Any decent mechanic will have the computer to do it and will charge a lot less.
Good man, thanks, I'll get on to it in the morning!
Quote from: on the sideline on October 04, 2015, 09:22:08 PM
Quote from: GJL on October 04, 2015, 07:46:05 PM
Not necessary to go to a dealer. Any decent mechanic will have the computer to do it and will charge a lot less.
Good man, thanks, I'll get on to it in the morning!
My guess is dpf or associated sensors. If not that maybe egr valve.
Quote from: on the sideline on October 03, 2015, 04:16:29 PM
Just after getting an 'Emission Warning - Garage!' message on the car when I start it up. It's a 2007 Jetta. The engine warning light then stays on when the car is going. Is it still ok to drive? Need it tomorrow! Anyone came across this or anything like it before? Thanks.
I've a 2006 Jetta and the emission warning light has been on for 2 plus years now, no bother at all.
I think in my instance its some throttle control valve under the EGR which went awry when I stalled the car at a set of lights and started it again quite quickly. Only noticeable difference is it'd be a bit noisier idling and when you turn off the engine. Other than that, no issues.
Quote from: GJL on October 04, 2015, 09:48:44 PM
Quote from: on the sideline on October 04, 2015, 09:22:08 PM
Quote from: GJL on October 04, 2015, 07:46:05 PM
Not necessary to go to a dealer. Any decent mechanic will have the computer to do it and will charge a lot less.
Good man, thanks, I'll get on to it in the morning!
My guess is dpf or associated sensors. If not that maybe egr valve.
Was due to leave the car over at the garage this evening, but the light and warning message - which had been there all day, were gone!lol So if they don't come back on I'm just gonna drive away at her. Strange! :o
If it was the DPF it could have gone though a regeneration to clear itself and knocked the warning message out.
Quote from: on the sideline on October 05, 2015, 11:05:19 PM
Quote from: GJL on October 04, 2015, 09:48:44 PM
Quote from: on the sideline on October 04, 2015, 09:22:08 PM
Quote from: GJL on October 04, 2015, 07:46:05 PM
Not necessary to go to a dealer. Any decent mechanic will have the computer to do it and will charge a lot less.
Good man, thanks, I'll get on to it in the morning!
My guess is dpf or associated sensors. If not that maybe egr valve.
Was due to leave the car over at the garage this evening, but the light and warning message - which had been there all day, were gone!lol So if they don't come back on I'm just gonna drive away at her. Strange! :o
I'd be very surprised if it does not come back.
Quote from: 93-DY-SAM on October 06, 2015, 12:11:29 AM
If it was the DPF it could have gone though a regeneration to clear itself and knocked the warning message out.
As far as I know as soon as the light comes on it is beyond automatic regeneration and stops trying. It then requires a forced regeneration by mechanic's computer or the dpf needs removed and cleaned.
What's the success of dpf cleaning nowadays GJL? Is there good products/equipment out there that do a good job?
Sorry to drop in with a question. Glow plug light flashing and engine light on in our skoda. Any ideas? All brake and reverse lights are working
Are u on the red
I'm on the real stuff mate
On some cars this is sign of emission problem. Sometimes if ure on the red this can trigger it. So my mechanic told me
Because you paid for the real stuff doesn't always mean that your filling station did.
Normally use shell or BP for diesel
Came back with an intermittent crankshaft sensor after it was plugged in. £110 + Vat to have it repaired.
what do we think serious? Safe to Ignore?
Quote from: pullhard on October 12, 2015, 03:07:39 PM
Came back with an intermittent crankshaft sensor after it was plugged in. £110 + Vat to have it repaired.
what do we think serious? Safe to Ignore?
If it fails the car will stop and not start again. Your gamble.
fair enough, i'll get it booked in. is it a fair price? Is it DIY-able?
Prob a bit off topic but looking for a 2nd car. Seen one on CarZone. 2008 2.0 Mondeo. Less than 50k miles. €8k. I think it seems a reasonable price but maybe a bit too reasonable? It's with a dealer so comes with warranty.Thinking of going for a look but don't want a wasted journey.
Quote from: pullhard on October 12, 2015, 03:29:57 PM
fair enough, i'll get it booked in. is it a fair price? Is it DIY-able?
Not really, as far as I remember it is inside the gearbox bell housing. Good enough price.
GJL, any idea on what would be a reasonable price to fit a turbo. It's a Peugeot 207 1.6hdi, apparently that engine is notorious for dodgy turbos.
Quote from: omagh_gael on October 12, 2015, 11:31:06 PM
GJL, any idea on what would be a reasonable price to fit a turbo. It's a Peugeot 207 1.6hdi, apparently that engine is notorious for dodgy turbos.
Labour charge could be around £100ish
Quote from: mikehunt on October 12, 2015, 03:34:42 PM
Prob a bit off topic but looking for a 2nd car. Seen one on CarZone. 2008 2.0 Mondeo. Less than 50k miles. €8k. I think it seems a reasonable price but maybe a bit too reasonable? It's with a dealer so comes with warranty.Thinking of going for a look but don't want a wasted journey.
Diesel or petrol? If petrol I'd say it's overpriced to be honest. I sold an immaculate 1.8 mazda 6 private granted it was a 06 but only got 3000 for it.
Considering putting two winter tyres on the front of a (front wheel drive) Sharan. The back two standard tyres are in good condition.
Have been Googling around and there doesn't seem to be consensus on whether this is wise or not. Most of the driving in this car is done in the west Wicklow i.e. mountainous, windy roads that are cold and damp from now until spring. The extra grip and traction on the drive axle to me seems safer than the risks of it been uneven with the rear axle.
Any thoughts?
Quote from: Ulick on October 13, 2015, 12:32:15 PM
Considering putting two winter tyres on the front of a (front wheel drive) Sharan. The back two standard tyres are in good condition.
Have been Googling around and there doesn't seem to be consensus on whether this is wise or not. Most of the driving in this car is done in the west Wicklow i.e. mountainous, windy roads that are cold and damp from now until spring. The extra grip and traction on the drive axle to me seems safer than the risks of it been uneven with the rear axle.
Any thoughts?
Good enough idea. 4 would be ideal but 2 on the front is better than nothing.
Am I doomed to get a people carrier. :-\
Got number 3 on the way (that's us done), so does anyone have any ideas on cars that would take 3 car seats. Come February I'll have a 5.5 yr old, a 1.5 yr old and a new born. So basically one iso fix and two high back chairs.
If I had no option I'd probably look at an s-max but boy they do lose their value quickly.
Quote from: DickyRock on October 19, 2015, 09:19:50 AM
Am I doomed to get a people carrier. :-\
Got number 3 on the way (that's us done), so does anyone have any ideas on cars that would take 3 car seats. Come February I'll have a 5.5 yr old, a 1.5 yr old and a new born. So basically one iso fix and two high back chairs.
If I had no option I'd probably look at an s-max but boy they do lose their value quickly.
f**k that, a good sized family hatchback or a saloon would be better. A Mondeo or Superb would give you enough room and a decent boot for the 'travel system'.
Quote from: johnneycool on October 19, 2015, 12:05:56 PM
Quote from: DickyRock on October 19, 2015, 09:19:50 AM
Am I doomed to get a people carrier. :-\
Got number 3 on the way (that's us done), so does anyone have any ideas on cars that would take 3 car seats. Come February I'll have a 5.5 yr old, a 1.5 yr old and a new born. So basically one iso fix and two high back chairs.
If I had no option I'd probably look at an s-max but boy they do lose their value quickly.
f**k that, a good sized family hatchback or a saloon would be better. A Mondeo or Superb would give you enough room and a decent boot for the 'travel system'.
Audi A6 has a big back seat that will take 3. If you go for the estate version you also will have a massive boot.
Got the letter from VW about the call back due to the emissions scandal.
I will need to bring my motor in for a service. Any idea what changes will be made to the car? Will it affect fuel consumption?
Do i have any comeback with the dealer? only bought within the last 2 months (car is 2012).
I think that consumption isn't going to be the thing that changes much. I'd heard that power could be affected though. Anyone else hear that?
Quote from: theskull1 on October 19, 2015, 01:01:44 PM
I think that consumption isn't going to be the thing that changes much. I'd heard that power could be affected though. Anyone else hear that?
Heard it would affect both actually. Tho would imagine that fuel economy will be affected much less than then power output.
But have VW actually announced the fix yet?
Quote from: Link on October 19, 2015, 12:13:41 PM
Got the letter from VW about the call back due to the emissions scandal.
I will need to bring my motor in for a service. Any idea what changes will be made to the car? Will it affect fuel consumption?
Do i have any comeback with the dealer? only bought within the last 2 months (car is 2012).
What happens if you don't bother bringing it back?. I assume it will continue to pass mot/nct
not too sure snoop! lot of unanswered questions...
Have a Ford Mondeo Diesel 2008 which seems to have lost a bit of it's power and slow accelerating. Also when I turn the car off, the fan seems to run for some time afterwards, which I never noticed before. But the drop in power can be random, in that some times it's OK and others now. Any ideas? Someone mentioned it might be a turbo issue?
Feckin bonnet release cable broke on my 2006 Jetta, are they hard to replace?
Would I need to strip much out to feed the new one in or can I feed the new cable up the existing cover?
What's the latest with the VW recalls? Would it be worth using this inconvenience to weasel out a free service/repairs or anything else that needed looked at?
Quote from: general_lee on January 11, 2016, 01:11:03 PM
What's the latest with the VW recalls? Would it be worth using this inconvenience to weasel out a free service/repairs or anything else that needed looked at?
I couldn't see them doing anything for free considering the money they will be out with the recall itself.
I also wouldn't be too quick to take your car back for the actual recall. All you will get back is a slower and less frugal car in order for the car to actually meet the emissions criteria.
Quote from: doodaa on January 11, 2016, 01:38:23 PM
Quote from: general_lee on January 11, 2016, 01:11:03 PM
What's the latest with the VW recalls? Would it be worth using this inconvenience to weasel out a free service/repairs or anything else that needed looked at?
I couldn't see them doing anything for free considering the money they will be out with the recall itself.
I also wouldn't be too quick to take your car back for the actual recall. All you will get back is a slower and less frugal car in order for the car to actually meet the emissions criteria.
I'd have thought the opposite. Was there not talk of legal action in the states over all this? And believe me I'm in no rush to bring my car back, but surely as incentive for like - minded people such as myself they would throw in a free service to get us to cooperate.
Quote from: general_lee on January 11, 2016, 01:56:12 PM
Quote from: doodaa on January 11, 2016, 01:38:23 PM
Quote from: general_lee on January 11, 2016, 01:11:03 PM
What's the latest with the VW recalls? Would it be worth using this inconvenience to weasel out a free service/repairs or anything else that needed looked at?
I couldn't see them doing anything for free considering the money they will be out with the recall itself.
I also wouldn't be too quick to take your car back for the actual recall. All you will get back is a slower and less frugal car in order for the car to actually meet the emissions criteria.
I'd have thought the opposite. Was there not talk of legal action in the states over all this? And believe me I'm in no rush to bring my car back, but surely as incentive for like - minded people such as myself they would throw in a free service to get us to cooperate.
You might get your car washed and a general check of the cars health but I cant see them servicing it.
As an example my e46 BMW went in for the airbag replacement (stories of airbags going off and flying shrapnel meant that BMW replaced all passenger airbags on that model) and all it got was a wash as an extra. I never asked right enough so maybe it would be worth a try?
I still wouldn't take your veedub back even if it was getting a free service!
Diesel 99.9 cents a litre in Ballina today...1st time I've seen it under the euro.
97p on the Armagh to Portadown road, been under a quid there for about 5 weeks.
What constitutes a service in some of these dealer garages nowadays? Oil and filter change?
should do a bit more than an oil and filter change, the Mrs got a service done a while back in england and was someone she had never used so I marked the filter when I was over. Charged her for a filter change and few other things, checked it after and same filter in place with the mark on it >:( >:( cowboys out there at times give genuine good mechanics a bad name.
Quote from: No wides on January 12, 2016, 12:50:21 PM
97p on the Armagh to Portadown road, been under a quid there for about 5 weeks.
82p if you drive on to the border.
Quote from: Tony Baloney on January 12, 2016, 03:03:31 PM
Quote from: No wides on January 12, 2016, 12:50:21 PM
97p on the Armagh to Portadown road, been under a quid there for about 5 weeks.
82p if you drive on to the border.
76p if you drive to Ballina!
Quote from: snoopdog on January 12, 2016, 01:44:35 PM
What constitutes a service in some of these dealer garages nowadays? Oil and filter change?
Depends if its a major service or minor service and what you ask for?
Major service in my eyes would be new discs and pads if required, timing belt, oil change, fuel filter coolant/lights/wipers/tyres/suspension/bearings/bushes checked and replaced if required.
GJL, I have just had an antipollution fault come on my 207 (1.6 hdi 90bhp) last week. Been doing a bit of research and it appears to be an enforced limiter due to the dpf filter needing cleared out in the exhaust. Have u done this type of work before? My car is driving grand apart from revs being limited at 3000rpm.
Is this not a case of taking it for a spin down a motorway or dual carriageway in 4th for 5/10 mins?
Quote from: omagh_gael on January 25, 2016, 10:12:42 PM
GJL, I have just had an antipollution fault come on my 207 (1.6 hdi 90bhp) last week. Been doing a bit of research and it appears to be an enforced limiter due to the dpf filter needing cleared out in the exhaust. Have u done this type of work before? My car is driving grand apart from revs being limited at 3000rpm.
My wife's 308 same thing is happening,it's a 1.4 petrol though. Her NCT is next week so if there is a quick fix it be great to know.
Would you believe it, it has disappeared these last two days. I put in some redex fuel system cleaner the week before and have been driving with higher revs than normal as it was sluggish. Driving 100% now, hoping it stays that way.
Our family car was in for the MOT last week and I mentioned it to the tester. He said an anti pollution fault wouldn't fail the test as its not a safety concern. They'd be more interested if it was an airbag light or abs warning. Not sure If this would be appplicable with the NCT.
On another note, I assumed these faults only came up on diesels as it tended to be a blockage in the diesel particulate filter or a lack of fluid that's injected into the filter that breaks down the build up?
Quote from: omagh_gael on January 27, 2016, 07:19:59 PM
Would you believe it, it has disappeared these last two days. I put in some redex fuel system cleaner the week before and have been driving with higher revs than normal as it was sluggish. Driving 100% now, hoping it stays that way.
Our family car was in for the MOT last week and I mentioned it to the tester. He said an anti pollution fault wouldn't fail the test as its not a safety concern. They'd be more interested if it was an airbag light or abs warning. Not sure If this would be appplicable with the NCT.
On another note, I assumed these faults only came up on diesels as it tended to be a blockage in the diesel particulate filter or a lack of fluid that's injected into the filter that breaks down the build up?
The error message on the wifes car is 'depollution system faulty.' It has brought the engine light is on also so I think that's an automatic fail for NCT. I wonder would it be worth throwing that redex stuff in her car.
The fella couldn't be clearer in that an engine management light wouldn't fail the test in the north unless it was related to a safety feature. Is it effecting the performance of the car?
Quote from: omagh_gael on January 27, 2016, 08:19:16 PM
The fella couldn't be clearer in that an engine management light wouldn't fail the test in the north unless it was related to a safety feature. Is it effecting the performance of the car?
Don't think so. I don't drive it very often, haven't heard her complain that it does, and she would complain!!
I called into a garage last week and the guy told me that it's a very common problem and lots of people drive on with it for months/years with no problem. When it came on in my car it made an obvious difference to performance in that it struggled up hills and overtaking.
The DPF's are all part of the car manufacturers trying to meet emission levels. If you are driving a diesel these days you need to be doing semi-regular long journeys preferably on motorways in order for the exhaust system to build up enough heat to force a regeneration of the filter and burn of the soot build up. Pottering around on short journeys doesn't cut the mustard and is why you get these warnings coming on. The car puts itself in a safe mode and limits performance. Fuel additives can help prevent a build up of soot and you might just have caught it in time. I'll be surprised if it's not back on again in a month.
Quote from: 93-DY-SAM on January 27, 2016, 09:56:58 PM
The DPF's are all part of the car manufacturers trying to meet emission levels. If you are driving a diesel these days you need to be doing semi-regular long journeys preferably on motorways in order for the exhaust system to build up enough heat to force a regeneration of the filter and burn of the soot build up. Pottering around on short journeys doesn't cut the mustard and is why you get these warnings coming on. The car puts itself in a safe mode and limits performance. Fuel additives can help prevent a build up of soot and you might just have caught it in time. I'll be surprised if it's not back on again in a month.
Thats it. Keep a close eye on it as replacement DPFs cost around a grand!
Feck off with your negativity, haha! Yeah, will be doing all I can to keep it well maintained. Hopefully get a lucky break as I have had shitty luck with cars over the past few years.
Out of interest, have you heard of dpfs being taken out and washed out then refitted? Noticed a lot of forums reporting that this worked well for them.
Quote from: omagh_gael on January 27, 2016, 11:53:26 PM
Feck off with your negativity, haha! Yeah, will be doing all I can to keep it well maintained. Hopefully get a lucky break as I have had shitty luck with cars over the past few years.
Out of interest, have you heard of dpfs being taken out and washed out then refitted? Noticed a lot of forums reporting that this worked well for them.
Yeah but unfortunately haven't heard much long term success with that. Only long term solution bar a complete replacement is to get the engine remapped to bypass it (but that might not be entirely legal ;) )
FYI its only a visual check for a DPF in the Northern MOT, at present,so if the DPF box (DPF gutted and remapped out) is still there then it should pass.
Eventually they will bring in a test for it to test it is working. Until then there will continue to be people who will cut it out and remap it.
DPF and EGR systems are a very shortsighted view to reducing total emissions.
When they work they do their job well. When they don't they cause inefficient engines. They then need replaced, which means throwing away the old DPF, someone somewhere manufacturing a new DPF and shipping it to be fitted.
The car itself might be more efficient at the exhaust pipe but think of the total cost (environmentally) to keep it like that.
Cheers Doodaa, any idea on average price for gutting and remap of dfp?
Have a 2005 BMW 116i. Getting it ready to sell and it's developed a problem with the wheel spin sensors. From time to time the car will lose power briefly, sometimes the traction control light comes on, sometimes not. It happens more often when turning left. There is no fault code coming up on the diagnostic and I've changed the tyres, had the wheel spin sensors cleaned and the ABS pump reset but it's still happening.
From reading through various forums it seems like a common enough problem but there are a lot of differing solutions. One that keeps coming up is changing the reluctor rings on the drive shaft - has anyone heard of this problem or experienced it? Starting to really bug me!
Quote from: omagh_gael on January 28, 2016, 10:01:57 AM
Cheers Doodaa, any idea on average price for gutting and remap of dfp?
Sorry omagh_gael I forgot about this thread completely.
Not sure if you got sorted but I would think £200-250 as a ballpark figure to have it done.
Just noticed the chat here lads, I've had a couple of car problems for a while now. Can anyone provide me with any advice or experience as I took it to a couple of people and then to VW garage who charged me a fortune to get a problem fixed with the fuel pump and then told me they would need to take the car another time to figure out the other fault so I haven't had the desire to leave it back yet considering the money spent on it so far.
I own a 2007 GT Golf (I'm considering selling)
1st problem is the engine management light has been on for over a year and I got someone to put a computer on it and the fault came up as something to do with emmissions and they turned it off but then it comes back on again within a day.
2nd problem and more concerning is the fact that once I drive the car for around an hour the car will lose all power and start to decelerate. I've found that if I flick the ignition off then on whilst going it seems to reset the problem and the car gains power again however it might do it again after every few minutes. Never happens on short journeys just when I'm driving approx. over an hour.
Quote from: laceer on February 12, 2016, 09:45:11 AM
Have a 2005 BMW 116i. Getting it ready to sell and it's developed a problem with the wheel spin sensors. From time to time the car will lose power briefly, sometimes the traction control light comes on, sometimes not. It happens more often when turning left. There is no fault code coming up on the diagnostic and I've changed the tyres, had the wheel spin sensors cleaned and the ABS pump reset but it's still happening.
From reading through various forums it seems like a common enough problem but there are a lot of differing solutions. One that keeps coming up is changing the reluctor rings on the drive shaft - has anyone heard of this problem or experienced it? Starting to really bug me!
Get the geometry of the car checked. Wheel alignment and the caster/camber settings done. If any of these are out it could be causing the traction control to cut power as the car thinks it is going into a slide.
Quote from: Radda bout yeee on February 12, 2016, 11:09:58 AM
Just noticed the chat here lads, I've had a couple of car problems for a while now. Can anyone provide me with any advice or experience as I took it to a couple of people and then to VW garage who charged me a fortune to get a problem fixed with the fuel pump and then told me they would need to take the car another time to figure out the other fault so I haven't had the desire to leave it back yet considering the money spent on it so far.
I own a 2007 GT Golf (I'm considering selling)
1st problem is the engine management light has been on for over a year and I got someone to put a computer on it and the fault came up as something to do with emmissions and they turned it off but then it comes back on again within a day.
2nd problem and more concerning is the fact that once I drive the car for around an hour the car will lose all power and start to decelerate. I've found that if I flick the ignition off then on whilst going it seems to reset the problem and the car gains power again however it might do it again after every few minutes. Never happens on short journeys just when I'm driving approx. over an hour.
Impossible to know what is wrong without knowing what the fault code is. Sounds like a turbo boost problem, if the car senses an over boost it goes into safe mode and by switching the car off and on you are resetting it until the next over boost.
Quote from: GJL on February 12, 2016, 11:28:14 AM
Quote from: Radda bout yeee on February 12, 2016, 11:09:58 AM
Just noticed the chat here lads, I've had a couple of car problems for a while now. Can anyone provide me with any advice or experience as I took it to a couple of people and then to VW garage who charged me a fortune to get a problem fixed with the fuel pump and then told me they would need to take the car another time to figure out the other fault so I haven't had the desire to leave it back yet considering the money spent on it so far.
I own a 2007 GT Golf (I'm considering selling)
1st problem is the engine management light has been on for over a year and I got someone to put a computer on it and the fault came up as something to do with emmissions and they turned it off but then it comes back on again within a day.
2nd problem and more concerning is the fact that once I drive the car for around an hour the car will lose all power and start to decelerate. I've found that if I flick the ignition off then on whilst going it seems to reset the problem and the car gains power again however it might do it again after every few minutes. Never happens on short journeys just when I'm driving approx. over an hour.
Impossible to know what is wrong without knowing what the fault code is. Sounds like a turbo boost problem, if the car senses an over boost it goes into safe mode and by switching the car off and on you are resetting it until the next over boost.
Strangely similar to my wife's car problem... though there was a hissing sound coming out from underneath it and black smoke out the exhaust ... slow mode no acceleration and would not get up the hill where my wife had pulled in.... emissions and injector (for the first time) warning came up....probably getting a new car but if I can sell it on then grand
Quote from: Milltown Row2 on February 12, 2016, 11:50:02 AM
Quote from: GJL on February 12, 2016, 11:28:14 AM
Quote from: Radda bout yeee on February 12, 2016, 11:09:58 AM
Just noticed the chat here lads, I've had a couple of car problems for a while now. Can anyone provide me with any advice or experience as I took it to a couple of people and then to VW garage who charged me a fortune to get a problem fixed with the fuel pump and then told me they would need to take the car another time to figure out the other fault so I haven't had the desire to leave it back yet considering the money spent on it so far.
I own a 2007 GT Golf (I'm considering selling)
1st problem is the engine management light has been on for over a year and I got someone to put a computer on it and the fault came up as something to do with emmissions and they turned it off but then it comes back on again within a day.
2nd problem and more concerning is the fact that once I drive the car for around an hour the car will lose all power and start to decelerate. I've found that if I flick the ignition off then on whilst going it seems to reset the problem and the car gains power again however it might do it again after every few minutes. Never happens on short journeys just when I'm driving approx. over an hour.
Impossible to know what is wrong without knowing what the fault code is. Sounds like a turbo boost problem, if the car senses an over boost it goes into safe mode and by switching the car off and on you are resetting it until the next over boost.
Strangely similar to my wife's car problem... though there was a hissing sound coming out from underneath it and black smoke out the exhaust ... slow mode no acceleration and would not get up the hill where my wife had pulled in.... emissions and injector (for the first time) warning came up....probably getting a new car but if I can sell it on then grand
Had similar issues with a Focus in the past and injector issues was the root cause. No fun when the engine cuts out at 80mph on the motorway.
Quote from: GJL on February 12, 2016, 11:24:18 AM
Quote from: laceer on February 12, 2016, 09:45:11 AM
Have a 2005 BMW 116i. Getting it ready to sell and it's developed a problem with the wheel spin sensors. From time to time the car will lose power briefly, sometimes the traction control light comes on, sometimes not. It happens more often when turning left. There is no fault code coming up on the diagnostic and I've changed the tyres, had the wheel spin sensors cleaned and the ABS pump reset but it's still happening.
From reading through various forums it seems like a common enough problem but there are a lot of differing solutions. One that keeps coming up is changing the reluctor rings on the drive shaft - has anyone heard of this problem or experienced it? Starting to really bug me!
Get the geometry of the car checked. Wheel alignment and the caster/camber settings done. If any of these are out it could be causing the traction control to cut power as the car thinks it is going into a slide.
Thanks GJL - is this a mechanic job or should I take it to a tyre place?
Quote from: laceer on February 12, 2016, 12:16:06 PM
Quote from: GJL on February 12, 2016, 11:24:18 AM
Quote from: laceer on February 12, 2016, 09:45:11 AM
Have a 2005 BMW 116i. Getting it ready to sell and it's developed a problem with the wheel spin sensors. From time to time the car will lose power briefly, sometimes the traction control light comes on, sometimes not. It happens more often when turning left. There is no fault code coming up on the diagnostic and I've changed the tyres, had the wheel spin sensors cleaned and the ABS pump reset but it's still happening.
From reading through various forums it seems like a common enough problem but there are a lot of differing solutions. One that keeps coming up is changing the reluctor rings on the drive shaft - has anyone heard of this problem or experienced it? Starting to really bug me!
Get the geometry of the car checked. Wheel alignment and the caster/camber settings done. If any of these are out it could be causing the traction control to cut power as the car thinks it is going into a slide.
Thanks GJL - is this a mechanic job or should I take it to a tyre place?
Good tyre place should do. I'm not saying it will fix it but it is the first thing I would check especially since there are no faults showing.
Quote from: Milltown Row2 on February 12, 2016, 11:50:02 AM
Quote from: GJL on February 12, 2016, 11:28:14 AM
Quote from: Radda bout yeee on February 12, 2016, 11:09:58 AM
Just noticed the chat here lads, I've had a couple of car problems for a while now. Can anyone provide me with any advice or experience as I took it to a couple of people and then to VW garage who charged me a fortune to get a problem fixed with the fuel pump and then told me they would need to take the car another time to figure out the other fault so I haven't had the desire to leave it back yet considering the money spent on it so far.
I own a 2007 GT Golf (I'm considering selling)
1st problem is the engine management light has been on for over a year and I got someone to put a computer on it and the fault came up as something to do with emmissions and they turned it off but then it comes back on again within a day.
2nd problem and more concerning is the fact that once I drive the car for around an hour the car will lose all power and start to decelerate. I've found that if I flick the ignition off then on whilst going it seems to reset the problem and the car gains power again however it might do it again after every few minutes. Never happens on short journeys just when I'm driving approx. over an hour.
Impossible to know what is wrong without knowing what the fault code is. Sounds like a turbo boost problem, if the car senses an over boost it goes into safe mode and by switching the car off and on you are resetting it until the next over boost.
Strangely similar to my wife's car problem... though there was a hissing sound coming out from underneath it and black smoke out the exhaust ... slow mode no acceleration and would not get up the hill where my wife had pulled in.... emissions and injector (for the first time) warning came up....probably getting a new car but if I can sell it on then grand
Hiss sound and black smoke suggests burst intercooler pipe.
is it safe enough to drive with engine management light on? effect performance? greater fuel consumtion?
Quote from: GJL on February 12, 2016, 12:40:25 PM
Quote from: laceer on February 12, 2016, 12:16:06 PM
Quote from: GJL on February 12, 2016, 11:24:18 AM
Quote from: laceer on February 12, 2016, 09:45:11 AM
Have a 2005 BMW 116i. Getting it ready to sell and it's developed a problem with the wheel spin sensors. From time to time the car will lose power briefly, sometimes the traction control light comes on, sometimes not. It happens more often when turning left. There is no fault code coming up on the diagnostic and I've changed the tyres, had the wheel spin sensors cleaned and the ABS pump reset but it's still happening.
From reading through various forums it seems like a common enough problem but there are a lot of differing solutions. One that keeps coming up is changing the reluctor rings on the drive shaft - has anyone heard of this problem or experienced it? Starting to really bug me!
Get the geometry of the car checked. Wheel alignment and the caster/camber settings done. If any of these are out it could be causing the traction control to cut power as the car thinks it is going into a slide.
Thanks GJL - is this a mechanic job or should I take it to a tyre place?
Good tyre place should do. I'm not saying it will fix it but it is the first thing I would check especially since there are no faults showing.
Thanks for the advice. Will take it in tomorrow
Edit - have just been told that only BMW can check caster/camber settings as only they have the readings - does this sound correct?
Quote from: laceer on February 12, 2016, 02:33:12 PM
Quote from: GJL on February 12, 2016, 12:40:25 PM
Quote from: laceer on February 12, 2016, 12:16:06 PM
Quote from: GJL on February 12, 2016, 11:24:18 AM
Quote from: laceer on February 12, 2016, 09:45:11 AM
Have a 2005 BMW 116i. Getting it ready to sell and it's developed a problem with the wheel spin sensors. From time to time the car will lose power briefly, sometimes the traction control light comes on, sometimes not. It happens more often when turning left. There is no fault code coming up on the diagnostic and I've changed the tyres, had the wheel spin sensors cleaned and the ABS pump reset but it's still happening.
From reading through various forums it seems like a common enough problem but there are a lot of differing solutions. One that keeps coming up is changing the reluctor rings on the drive shaft - has anyone heard of this problem or experienced it? Starting to really bug me!
Get the geometry of the car checked. Wheel alignment and the caster/camber settings done. If any of these are out it could be causing the traction control to cut power as the car thinks it is going into a slide.
Thanks GJL - is this a mechanic job or should I take it to a tyre place?
Good tyre place should do. I'm not saying it will fix it but it is the first thing I would check especially since there are no faults showing.
Thanks for the advice. Will take it in tomorrow
Edit - have just been told that only BMW can check caster/camber settings as only they have the readings - does this sound correct?
No.
Quote from: SHEEDY on February 12, 2016, 01:43:19 PM
is it safe enough to drive with engine management light on? effect performance? greater fuel consumtion?
Usually safe enough short term but long term can wreck the dpf filter.
Quote from: GJL on February 12, 2016, 12:41:18 PM
Quote from: Milltown Row2 on February 12, 2016, 11:50:02 AM
Quote from: GJL on February 12, 2016, 11:28:14 AM
Quote from: Radda bout yeee on February 12, 2016, 11:09:58 AM
Just noticed the chat here lads, I've had a couple of car problems for a while now. Can anyone provide me with any advice or experience as I took it to a couple of people and then to VW garage who charged me a fortune to get a problem fixed with the fuel pump and then told me they would need to take the car another time to figure out the other fault so I haven't had the desire to leave it back yet considering the money spent on it so far.
I own a 2007 GT Golf (I'm considering selling)
1st problem is the engine management light has been on for over a year and I got someone to put a computer on it and the fault came up as something to do with emmissions and they turned it off but then it comes back on again within a day.
2nd problem and more concerning is the fact that once I drive the car for around an hour the car will lose all power and start to decelerate. I've found that if I flick the ignition off then on whilst going it seems to reset the problem and the car gains power again however it might do it again after every few minutes. Never happens on short journeys just when I'm driving approx. over an hour.
Impossible to know what is wrong without knowing what the fault code is. Sounds like a turbo boost problem, if the car senses an over boost it goes into safe mode and by switching the car off and on you are resetting it until the next over boost.
Strangely similar to my wife's car problem... though there was a hissing sound coming out from underneath it and black smoke out the exhaust ... slow mode no acceleration and would not get up the hill where my wife had pulled in.... emissions and injector (for the first time) warning came up....probably getting a new car but if I can sell it on then grand
Hiss sound and black smoke suggests burst intercooler pipe.
Expensive?? Wife buying new polo so just want to sell on
Quote from: doodaa on February 12, 2016, 10:25:20 AM
Quote from: omagh_gael on January 28, 2016, 10:01:57 AM
Cheers Doodaa, any idea on average price for gutting and remap of dfp?
Sorry omagh_gael I forgot about this thread completely.
Not sure if you got sorted but I would think £200-250 as a ballpark figure to have it done.
Cheers Dooda, I ran a couple of bottles of reddex through it and it went off all by itself, that's been over a fortnight ago.
However, I was involved in an accident today. A women pulled out of a junction and hit me flush along the passenger side of the car. Wrecked whole passenger side. Stiff and sore now!
Quote from: Milltown Row2 on February 12, 2016, 07:45:55 PM
Quote from: GJL on February 12, 2016, 12:41:18 PM
Quote from: Milltown Row2 on February 12, 2016, 11:50:02 AM
Quote from: GJL on February 12, 2016, 11:28:14 AM
Quote from: Radda bout yeee on February 12, 2016, 11:09:58 AM
Just noticed the chat here lads, I've had a couple of car problems for a while now. Can anyone provide me with any advice or experience as I took it to a couple of people and then to VW garage who charged me a fortune to get a problem fixed with the fuel pump and then told me they would need to take the car another time to figure out the other fault so I haven't had the desire to leave it back yet considering the money spent on it so far.
I own a 2007 GT Golf (I'm considering selling)
1st problem is the engine management light has been on for over a year and I got someone to put a computer on it and the fault came up as something to do with emmissions and they turned it off but then it comes back on again within a day.
2nd problem and more concerning is the fact that once I drive the car for around an hour the car will lose all power and start to decelerate. I've found that if I flick the ignition off then on whilst going it seems to reset the problem and the car gains power again however it might do it again after every few minutes. Never happens on short journeys just when I'm driving approx. over an hour.
Impossible to know what is wrong without knowing what the fault code is. Sounds like a turbo boost problem, if the car senses an over boost it goes into safe mode and by switching the car off and on you are resetting it until the next over boost.
Strangely similar to my wife's car problem... though there was a hissing sound coming out from underneath it and black smoke out the exhaust ... slow mode no acceleration and would not get up the hill where my wife had pulled in.... emissions and injector (for the first time) warning came up....probably getting a new car but if I can sell it on then grand
Hiss sound and black smoke suggests burst intercooler pipe.
Expensive?? Wife buying new polo so just want to sell on
Trade in or sell on yourself?
Quote from: GJL on February 13, 2016, 08:43:41 AM
Quote from: Milltown Row2 on February 12, 2016, 07:45:55 PM
Quote from: GJL on February 12, 2016, 12:41:18 PM
Quote from: Milltown Row2 on February 12, 2016, 11:50:02 AM
Quote from: GJL on February 12, 2016, 11:28:14 AM
Quote from: Radda bout yeee on February 12, 2016, 11:09:58 AM
Just noticed the chat here lads, I've had a couple of car problems for a while now. Can anyone provide me with any advice or experience as I took it to a couple of people and then to VW garage who charged me a fortune to get a problem fixed with the fuel pump and then told me they would need to take the car another time to figure out the other fault so I haven't had the desire to leave it back yet considering the money spent on it so far.
I own a 2007 GT Golf (I'm considering selling)
1st problem is the engine management light has been on for over a year and I got someone to put a computer on it and the fault came up as something to do with emmissions and they turned it off but then it comes back on again within a day.
2nd problem and more concerning is the fact that once I drive the car for around an hour the car will lose all power and start to decelerate. I've found that if I flick the ignition off then on whilst going it seems to reset the problem and the car gains power again however it might do it again after every few minutes. Never happens on short journeys just when I'm driving approx. over an hour.
Impossible to know what is wrong without knowing what the fault code is. Sounds like a turbo boost problem, if the car senses an over boost it goes into safe mode and by switching the car off and on you are resetting it until the next over boost.
Strangely similar to my wife's car problem... though there was a hissing sound coming out from underneath it and black smoke out the exhaust ... slow mode no acceleration and would not get up the hill where my wife had pulled in.... emissions and injector (for the first time) warning came up....probably getting a new car but if I can sell it on then grand
Hiss sound and black smoke suggests burst intercooler pipe.
Expensive?? Wife buying new polo so just want to sell on
Trade in or sell on yourself?
Would need to ask dealer, if I could get it fixed for 2/3 hundred then it may work as a deposit towards a better car or lower monthly payments.... Don't know, never bought a new car before
Quote from: Milltown Row2 on February 13, 2016, 08:47:23 AM
Quote from: GJL on February 13, 2016, 08:43:41 AM
Quote from: Milltown Row2 on February 12, 2016, 07:45:55 PM
Quote from: GJL on February 12, 2016, 12:41:18 PM
Quote from: Milltown Row2 on February 12, 2016, 11:50:02 AM
Quote from: GJL on February 12, 2016, 11:28:14 AM
Quote from: Radda bout yeee on February 12, 2016, 11:09:58 AM
Just noticed the chat here lads, I've had a couple of car problems for a while now. Can anyone provide me with any advice or experience as I took it to a couple of people and then to VW garage who charged me a fortune to get a problem fixed with the fuel pump and then told me they would need to take the car another time to figure out the other fault so I haven't had the desire to leave it back yet considering the money spent on it so far.
I own a 2007 GT Golf (I'm considering selling)
1st problem is the engine management light has been on for over a year and I got someone to put a computer on it and the fault came up as something to do with emmissions and they turned it off but then it comes back on again within a day.
2nd problem and more concerning is the fact that once I drive the car for around an hour the car will lose all power and start to decelerate. I've found that if I flick the ignition off then on whilst going it seems to reset the problem and the car gains power again however it might do it again after every few minutes. Never happens on short journeys just when I'm driving approx. over an hour.
Impossible to know what is wrong without knowing what the fault code is. Sounds like a turbo boost problem, if the car senses an over boost it goes into safe mode and by switching the car off and on you are resetting it until the next over boost.
Strangely similar to my wife's car problem... though there was a hissing sound coming out from underneath it and black smoke out the exhaust ... slow mode no acceleration and would not get up the hill where my wife had pulled in.... emissions and injector (for the first time) warning came up....probably getting a new car but if I can sell it on then grand
Hiss sound and black smoke suggests burst intercooler pipe.
Expensive?? Wife buying new polo so just want to sell on
Trade in or sell on yourself?
Would need to ask dealer, if I could get it fixed for 2/3 hundred then it may work as a deposit towards a better car or lower monthly payments.... Don't know, never bought a new car before
If it is just an intercooler pipe then a lot less than that should fix it. 100-150ish. Have your mechanic have a look to see what it is and give you a price. Then decide what to do.
Need some advice. We've out grown our motor, a Fabia. Considering getting a used Skoda estate. Wish to stick with a diesel, but the choice of engines is confusing, 1.4tdi, 1.6tdi and 2.0tdi. Any issues with theses engines? Google shows lots for each! Any you would avoid or love?
Quote from: laceer on February 12, 2016, 09:45:11 AM
Have a 2005 BMW 116i. Getting it ready to sell and it's developed a problem with the wheel spin sensors. From time to time the car will lose power briefly, sometimes the traction control light comes on, sometimes not. It happens more often when turning left. There is no fault code coming up on the diagnostic and I've changed the tyres, had the wheel spin sensors cleaned and the ABS pump reset but it's still happening.
From reading through various forums it seems like a common enough problem but there are a lot of differing solutions. One that keeps coming up is changing the reluctor rings on the drive shaft - has anyone heard of this problem or experienced it? Starting to really bug me!
Turned out to be rust between the reluctor ring and the drive shaft. It was pushing the reluctor ring out of shape and rubbing against the abs sensor, causing it to think the wheel was spinning and knock on the brakes.
My young fella got himself a 2007 Mazda 6. Going great except it seems to be running cool. The heater/aircon never gets hot, even when you set it to a very high demand temperature (to test). It's just about warm enough for comfort. The temperature gauge never gets beyond about 5% of its travel - i.e. it's just off the minimum mark even after an hour's driving.
The thermostat seems to be working, since the fan switches on and off. However, the fan does seem to come on very soon after the engine is switched on from cold - i.e. within a minute. I took this to mean the coolant temperature sensor might be faulty - calling for cooling at too low a temperature. So I replaced it, but no change.
The fuel economy is very poor - he got only 34 m.p.g. on a long run and under 30 for local driving. This could be a result of running too cold all the time. Our mechanic says it's grand, nothing wrong, but it doesn't seem right to me.
Any ideas?
Quote from: Hardy on March 08, 2016, 11:05:26 AM
My young fella got himself a 2007 Mazda 6. Going great except it seems to be running cool. The heater/aircon never gets hot, even when you set it to a very high demand temperature (to test). It's just about warm enough for comfort. The temperature gauge never gets beyond about 5% of its travel - i.e. it's just off the minimum mark even after an hour's driving.
The thermostat seems to be working, since the fan switches on and off. However, the fan does seem to come on very soon after the engine is switched on from cold - i.e. within a minute. I took this to mean the coolant temperature sensor might be faulty - calling for cooling at too low a temperature. So I replaced it, but no change.
The fuel economy is very poor - he got only 34 m.p.g. on a long run and under 30 for local driving. This could be a result of running too cold all the time. Our mechanic says it's grand, nothing wrong, but it doesn't seem right to me.
Any ideas?
Wrong type of coolant or too high a concentrate? Thermostat removed or jammed open?
Quote from: GJL on March 08, 2016, 11:14:12 AM
Quote from: Hardy on March 08, 2016, 11:05:26 AM
My young fella got himself a 2007 Mazda 6. Going great except it seems to be running cool. The heater/aircon never gets hot, even when you set it to a very high demand temperature (to test). It's just about warm enough for comfort. The temperature gauge never gets beyond about 5% of its travel - i.e. it's just off the minimum mark even after an hour's driving.
The thermostat seems to be working, since the fan switches on and off. However, the fan does seem to come on very soon after the engine is switched on from cold - i.e. within a minute. I took this to mean the coolant temperature sensor might be faulty - calling for cooling at too low a temperature. So I replaced it, but no change.
The fuel economy is very poor - he got only 34 m.p.g. on a long run and under 30 for local driving. This could be a result of running too cold all the time. Our mechanic says it's grand, nothing wrong, but it doesn't seem right to me.
Any ideas?
Wrong type of coolant or too high a concentrate? Thermostat removed or jammed open?
Mechanic said thermostat was definitely OK but, come to think of it, how could he know it wasn't jammed open? (He didn't physically check it.) Coolant "looks" very highly coloured, but I'll go back to the thermostat first.
Thanks for the steer.
May also get the air con checked. There be no/gas in it.
Quote from: Hardy on March 08, 2016, 11:52:01 AM
Quote from: GJL on March 08, 2016, 11:14:12 AM
Quote from: Hardy on March 08, 2016, 11:05:26 AM
My young fella got himself a 2007 Mazda 6. Going great except it seems to be running cool. The heater/aircon never gets hot, even when you set it to a very high demand temperature (to test). It's just about warm enough for comfort. The temperature gauge never gets beyond about 5% of its travel - i.e. it's just off the minimum mark even after an hour's driving.
The thermostat seems to be working, since the fan switches on and off. However, the fan does seem to come on very soon after the engine is switched on from cold - i.e. within a minute. I took this to mean the coolant temperature sensor might be faulty - calling for cooling at too low a temperature. So I replaced it, but no change.
The fuel economy is very poor - he got only 34 m.p.g. on a long run and under 30 for local driving. This could be a result of running too cold all the time. Our mechanic says it's grand, nothing wrong, but it doesn't seem right to me.
Any ideas?
Wrong type of coolant or too high a concentrate? Thermostat removed or jammed open?
Mechanic said thermostat was definitely OK but, come to think of it, how could he know it wasn't jammed open? (He didn't physically check it.) Coolant "looks" very highly coloured, but I'll go back to the thermostat first.
Thanks for the steer.
If it isn't getting up to temperature then the stat is either remaining open or it was fitted with a lower temp opening stat and opening too early.
Take it out, put it in a saucepan with water and turn the heat up on the hob. You should see some movement if it is working correctly. Stick a thermometer in as well and you can tell at what temp its opening at as well.
If it is getting up to temp then it isn't the stat. Could be a blocked heater matrix or a problem with the climate control/ heating controls.
If its proper coolant in it and its been well looked after then the coolant should be highly coloured. It can be red/ blue/ green/ orange/ yellow. As a rule never mix the colours, some can be mixed but best not take the chance.
Quote from: doodaa on March 08, 2016, 01:23:11 PM
Quote from: Hardy on March 08, 2016, 11:52:01 AM
Quote from: GJL on March 08, 2016, 11:14:12 AM
Quote from: Hardy on March 08, 2016, 11:05:26 AM
My young fella got himself a 2007 Mazda 6. Going great except it seems to be running cool. The heater/aircon never gets hot, even when you set it to a very high demand temperature (to test). It's just about warm enough for comfort. The temperature gauge never gets beyond about 5% of its travel - i.e. it's just off the minimum mark even after an hour's driving.
The thermostat seems to be working, since the fan switches on and off. However, the fan does seem to come on very soon after the engine is switched on from cold - i.e. within a minute. I took this to mean the coolant temperature sensor might be faulty - calling for cooling at too low a temperature. So I replaced it, but no change.
The fuel economy is very poor - he got only 34 m.p.g. on a long run and under 30 for local driving. This could be a result of running too cold all the time. Our mechanic says it's grand, nothing wrong, but it doesn't seem right to me.
Any ideas?
Wrong type of coolant or too high a concentrate? Thermostat removed or jammed open?
Mechanic said thermostat was definitely OK but, come to think of it, how could he know it wasn't jammed open? (He didn't physically check it.) Coolant "looks" very highly coloured, but I'll go back to the thermostat first.
Thanks for the steer.
If it isn't getting up to temperature then the stat is either remaining open or it was fitted with a lower temp opening stat and opening too early.
Take it out, put it in a saucepan with water and turn the heat up on the hob. You should see some movement if it is working correctly. Stick a thermometer in as well and you can tell at what temp its opening at as well.
If it is getting up to temp then it isn't the stat. Could be a blocked heater matrix or a problem with the climate control/ heating controls.
If its proper coolant in it and its been well looked after then the coolant should be highly coloured. It can be red/ blue/ green/ orange/ yellow. As a rule never mix the colours, some can be mixed but best not take the chance.
It is also possible that the water is not circulating properly due to a faulty water pump?
Thanks all. I think I'll start with checking if the stat is stuck open. Hope it's not the water pump.
I am looking for a Mercedes plug in sat nav module.
Any tips where I could get one at less than the £500 Isaac Agnew charge? Or advise whether, if I buy one on eBay, I could fit it myself (i.e just plug in) or would need to get a professional to do it.
I've tried googling for places in NI but no joy yet.
Thanks
Quote from: Rois on April 12, 2016, 08:47:04 PM
I am looking for a Mercedes plug in sat nav module.
Any tips where I could get one at less than the £500 Isaac Agnew charge? Or advise whether, if I buy one on eBay, I could fit it myself (i.e just plug in) or would need to get a professional to do it.
I've tried googling for places in NI but no joy yet.
Thanks
Try Molloy's in Armagh as they deal primarily in Mercedes parts.
Thanks, will do.
Lads what is the craic with a decent falla like myself from the 6 counties sellin my car to someone from the the free state. Do I need to supply any extra paper work with the car.
Rois,Mercedes sat nav? Did you get the Ulster GAA CEO post?😂
Quote from: Hereiam on September 14, 2016, 09:14:54 PM
Lads what is the craic with a decent falla like myself from the 6 counties sellin my car to someone from the the free state. Do I need to supply any extra paper work with the car.
I don't think you, the seller, would have any additional paperwork to provide. There may be a separate section in your V5 to fill out as the car is being "exported" but it will be up to the Southern buyer to sort out VRT, NCT and all that jazz that is required of them.
EDIT; Found this which may be of help (not my words)
"If he is coming personally to pick up the car, then Cash in Pounds.
Have the V5 ready for him,
All he needs to do is sign the Green section 8 as the new keeper.
and Fill out and KEEP the green section 10 'New Keepers details'
All You fill out is green section 6 and the Blue section 11 Notification of permanent export
Note: All he takes with him is section 10 that is all he needs
You post off section 1-8 to the DVLA
Its all outlined in section 12 "
thanks doodaa
Young lad has just been charged €620 for a clutch job on a Mazda 6. Seems a lot to me. Clutch kit should be about €200 max. €400 seems like barrister rates for labour. Should he be looking for a different mechanic?
Quote from: Hardy on May 30, 2017, 10:53:28 AM
Young lad has just been charged €620 for a clutch job on a Mazda 6. Seems a lot to me. Clutch kit should be about €200 max. €400 seems like barrister rates for labour. Should he be looking for a different mechanic?
Depends on if he put a dual mass flywheel in as well as clutch
If he did it's pretty cheap
No flywheel.
Quote from: Hereiam on September 14, 2016, 09:14:54 PM
Lads what is the craic with a decent falla like myself from the 6 counties sellin my car to someone from the the free state. Do I need to supply any extra paper work with the car.
Where exactly is this Free State you speak of?
I know her Majesty's subjects get poor education (which doesn't help given their low I.Q. anyway) but even they should know that the free state has been abolished
Quote from: Avondhu star on May 30, 2017, 01:44:03 PM
Quote from: Hereiam on September 14, 2016, 09:14:54 PM
Lads what is the craic with a decent falla like myself from the 6 counties sellin my car to someone from the the free state. Do I need to supply any extra paper work with the car.
Where exactly is this Free State you speak of?
I know her Majesty's subjects get poor education (which doesn't help giving their low I.Q. anyway) but even they should know that the free state has been abolished
;D
Who are they giving it to?
Quote from: north_antrim_hound on May 30, 2017, 12:19:43 PM
Quote from: Hardy on May 30, 2017, 10:53:28 AM
Young lad has just been charged €620 for a clutch job on a Mazda 6. Seems a lot to me. Clutch kit should be about €200 max. €400 seems like barrister rates for labour. Should he be looking for a different mechanic?
Depends on if he put a dual mass flywheel in as well as clutch
If he did it's pretty cheap
You could be into 6 hours labour at least and maybe a fair bit more. Some of those jap cars take a fair bit of stripping to remove the gearbox. Probably not far away price wise.
Thanks lads. He was told the price by text when the mechanic texted that the car was ready. When he collected it he was told some other work had been done - some part of the gear selection mechanism and a track rod end. So not as bad as he thought.
VW Passat, 2.0 TDi 2007, Fuel Pump leaking and sounds like Flywheel going >:(
Does anybody have a ball park figure, can't be good.
I'd say 900-1000 low ball park (flywheel + clutch kit + water pump + labour)
Quote from: Stevie Nicks on June 12, 2017, 10:16:15 PM
VW Passat, 2.0 TDi 2007, Fuel Pump leaking and sounds like Flywheel going >:(
Does anybody have a ball park figure, can't be good.
Sachs do a complete module kit now, replaces flywheel & clutch all in one unit. Stuck one in my 04 Touran last week, cost around £330 inc vat which was a nice shock to get as I was expecting more. Haven't paid the labour yet though lol
Quote from: paddyjohn on June 13, 2017, 10:18:58 AM
Quote from: Stevie Nicks on June 12, 2017, 10:16:15 PM
VW Passat, 2.0 TDi 2007, Fuel Pump leaking and sounds like Flywheel going >:(
Does anybody have a ball park figure, can't be good.
Sachs do a complete module kit now, replaces flywheel & clutch all in one unit. Stuck one in my 04 Touran last week, cost around £330 inc vat which was a nice shock to get as I was expecting more. Haven't paid the labour yet though lol
Cheers was looking online and Sachs seem to be the best priced alright. Lovely timing with hols on the horizon but I suppose at 140k miles these things are due to go in car!!
Quote from: theskull1 on June 13, 2017, 07:41:40 AM
I'd say 900-1000 low ball park (flywheel + clutch kit + water pump + labour)
Water pump was changed with timing belt, need a fuel pump but going second for one of those.
Quote from: Stevie Nicks on June 13, 2017, 11:35:17 AM
Quote from: theskull1 on June 13, 2017, 07:41:40 AM
I'd say 900-1000 low ball park (flywheel + clutch kit + water pump + labour)
Water pump was changed with timing belt, need a fuel pump but going second for one of those.
Second hand? I'd be careful of those as I got stung before with one, paid £120 for a second hand one and it lasted no time. Took it to a local diesel specialist and he sorted my own for £150 as good as new.
Not really to do with thread but does anyone know if u get caught speeding down south does the points transfer onto a ni driving licence??
Quote from: SHEEDY on July 09, 2017, 08:49:05 AM
Not really to do with thread but does anyone know if u get caught speeding down south does the points transfer onto a ni driving licence??
No. Nothing transfers. I would not even pay the fine if I were you.
Quote from: GJL on July 09, 2017, 04:14:35 PM
Quote from: SHEEDY on July 09, 2017, 08:49:05 AM
Not really to do with thread but does anyone know if u get caught speeding down south does the points transfer onto a ni driving licence??
No. Nothing transfers. I would not even pay the fine if I were you.
cheers, someone had told me that any points dont transfer but wasnt sure. Though also heard any unpaid fines are sold onto a debt collection company, any truth in that??
Quote from: SHEEDY on July 09, 2017, 08:22:57 PM
Quote from: GJL on July 09, 2017, 04:14:35 PM
Quote from: SHEEDY on July 09, 2017, 08:49:05 AM
Not really to do with thread but does anyone know if u get caught speeding down south does the points transfer onto a ni driving licence??
No. Nothing transfers. I would not even pay the fine if I were you.
cheers, someone had told me that any points dont transfer but wasnt sure. Though also heard any unpaid fines are sold onto a debt collection company, any truth in that??
Had a few in my time. Never paid any and no come back.
Quote from: SHEEDY on July 09, 2017, 08:22:57 PM
Quote from: GJL on July 09, 2017, 04:14:35 PM
Quote from: SHEEDY on July 09, 2017, 08:49:05 AM
Not really to do with thread but does anyone know if u get caught speeding down south does the points transfer onto a ni driving licence??
No. Nothing transfers. I would not even pay the fine if I were you.
cheers, someone had told me that any points dont transfer but wasnt sure. Though also heard any unpaid fines are sold onto a debt collection company, any truth in that??
Parking and M50 fines are sold onto to a debt collector, not sure about the speeding fines. However, if you don't pay the fine the points will double, a couple of these and you are off in the road in the 26 counties, which might be inconvenient. Don't forgot to inform your insurance company.
Has anyone in the North ever got a request for payment after not paying the M50 toll? If you did, what did you do?
Quote from: DickyRock on July 11, 2017, 10:55:42 PM
Has anyone in the North ever got a request for payment after not paying the M50 toll? If you did, what did you do?
Yes... paid it!
You should too as thefines go up very high very quickly and because you live in the North it can take some time for the notification to come through!
http://www.irishnews.com/news/2016/12/14/news/400-000-unpaid-m50-tolls-by-ni-drivers-835785/
Any VW drivers out there who got the emissions recall done to their vehicle? Did it make any difference? Have read a few reports of problems with the EGR valve after getting it done.
Getting a load of letters of VW saying it has to be done, can't see the point myself.
Quote from: angermanagement on July 27, 2017, 11:51:57 AM
Any VW drivers out there who got the emissions recall done to their vehicle? Did it make any difference? Have read a few reports of problems with the EGR valve after getting it done.
Getting a load of letters of VW saying it has to be done, can't see the point myself.
If the scandal hadnt broke there wouldn't have been any letters, as far as I know they only upgrade the ECU software so this has to put the components that help with emissions chiefly the EGR under more stress and therefore be more prone to failure down the line. Therefore I wouldn't bother especially if you intend keeping the car for a few years.
Quote from: screenexile on July 11, 2017, 11:49:03 PM
Quote from: DickyRock on July 11, 2017, 10:55:42 PM
Has anyone in the North ever got a request for payment after not paying the M50 toll? If you did, what did you do?
Yes... paid it!
You should too as thefines go up very high very quickly and because you live in the North it can take some time for the notification to come through!
http://www.irishnews.com/news/2016/12/14/news/400-000-unpaid-m50-tolls-by-ni-drivers-835785/
set up an account with eflow and ye'll get it for E2.60
Quote from: angermanagement on July 27, 2017, 11:51:57 AM
Any VW drivers out there who got the emissions recall done to their vehicle? Did it make any difference? Have read a few reports of problems with the EGR valve after getting it done.
Getting a load of letters of VW saying it has to be done, can't see the point myself.
You will get a less powerful and more thirsty car back so I wouldn't bother.
Quote from: angermanagement on July 27, 2017, 11:51:57 AM
Any VW drivers out there who got the emissions recall done to their vehicle? Did it make any difference? Have read a few reports of problems with the EGR valve after getting it done.
Getting a load of letters of VW saying it has to be done, can't see the point myself.
Are they threatening taking away the warranty and so forth?
Otherwise I wouldn't bother and wouldn't be taking it to a VW dealer for a service either.
Have a varta sealed battery. It keeps going flat on me. I hadon't to get the leads out to jump 2 weeks ago drove to Clones and it was fine until wed now it's flat again. When this happened with other cars I've owned I could top the battery up with water recharge with a drive and it would be fine. Anyone know if this one can be topped up. Loads of stuff online about drilling. Don't fancy that. IT may be an electrical issue draining battery so don't want to buy new one only to find out its an electrical issue. Any advice?
What make of car?
Buy a new battery.
Quote from: Tony Baloney on July 29, 2017, 08:59:23 AM
Buy a new battery.
True. Hoping it's not an electrical problem draining it
Quote from: snoopdog on July 29, 2017, 12:03:49 PM
Quote from: Tony Baloney on July 29, 2017, 08:59:23 AM
Buy a new battery.
True. Hoping it's not an electrical problem draining it
If the battery is a few years old then it could be the battery. I was away for a week with work last month and came back and my car didn't start. It took some industrial strength jump leads to get it started as the standard Halfords type were useless. As we were taking my car to the airport last week my missus said she wasn't going on holiday until I got a new battery. I forgot how dear the f**kers were!
Quote from: Tony Baloney on July 29, 2017, 12:53:57 PM
Quote from: snoopdog on July 29, 2017, 12:03:49 PM
Quote from: Tony Baloney on July 29, 2017, 08:59:23 AM
Buy a new battery.
True. Hoping it's not an electrical problem draining it
If the battery is a few years old then it could be the battery. I was away for a week with work last month and came back and my car didn't start. It took some industrial strength jump leads to get it started as the standard Halfords type were useless. As we were taking my car to the airport last week my missus said she wasn't going on holiday until I got a new battery. I forgot how dear the f**kers were!
That was a bit last minute and unreasonable of her!
Central locking has gone on the father in law's four year old Polo. Can lock the driver's door with the key, the remote is working and the lights flash when the remote is clicked but no locking mechanism is triggered. Can't trigger it from the button inside the car either. Any ideas?
Quote from: snoopdog on July 29, 2017, 12:03:49 PM
Quote from: Tony Baloney on July 29, 2017, 08:59:23 AM
Buy a new battery.
True. Hoping it's not an electrical problem draining it
Next time you're finished driving it and are going to be leaving it for a few days, disconnect the battery and see what it's like when you come back. If it starts ok, you have something drawing on the battery.
Quote from: gallsman on July 29, 2017, 03:18:26 PM
Central locking has gone on the father in law's four year old Polo. Can lock the driver's door with the key, the remote is working and the lights flash when the remote is clicked but no locking mechanism is triggered. Can't trigger it from the button inside the car either. Any ideas?
Has he looked for a blown fuse or change battery in key fob?
Could be something as simple as that or it could be more serious like maybe the solenoid for the central locking could be gone or the sensor that recieves the signal from the key to activate the solenoid could be faulty.
I'd try looking for a blown fuse first and change the battery.
The battery is fine - the lights flash as expected when the remote is used but the lock isn't triggered. When locking with the key, only the driver door locks. Again, no central mechanism triggered.
Actually just remembered I had a Golf once and the same thing happened.
There is a flexible conduit with cables going from the hinged side of the frame of the drivers door to the car body.
One of the cables was cut and I had to rejoin it which solved the problem.
Maybe his Polo has something similar problem.
Quote from: gallsman on July 29, 2017, 04:00:36 PM
The battery is fine - the lights flash as expected when the remote is used but the lock isn't triggered. When locking with the key, only the driver door locks. Again, no central mechanism triggered.
Could be a sensor or solenoid fault so.
Cheers, will have a look for him
Quote from: Owen Brannigan on July 29, 2017, 03:08:37 PM
Quote from: Tony Baloney on July 29, 2017, 12:53:57 PM
Quote from: snoopdog on July 29, 2017, 12:03:49 PM
Quote from: Tony Baloney on July 29, 2017, 08:59:23 AM
Buy a new battery.
True. Hoping it's not an electrical problem draining it
If the battery is a few years old then it could be the battery. I was away for a week with work last month and came back and my car didn't start. It took some industrial strength jump leads to get it started as the standard Halfords type were useless. As we were taking my car to the airport last week my missus said she wasn't going on holiday until I got a new battery. I forgot how dear the f**kers were!
That was a bit last minute and unreasonable of her!
LOL. Poorly constructed sentence on my part ;D. Must try harder.
Quote from: doodaa on July 28, 2017, 09:41:45 AM
Quote from: angermanagement on July 27, 2017, 11:51:57 AM
Any VW drivers out there who got the emissions recall done to their vehicle? Did it make any difference? Have read a few reports of problems with the EGR valve after getting it done.
Getting a load of letters of VW saying it has to be done, can't see the point myself.
You will get a less powerful and more thirsty car back so I wouldn't bother.
GJL - What's your view?
Quote from: macdanger2 on July 29, 2017, 03:30:52 PM
Quote from: snoopdog on July 29, 2017, 12:03:49 PM
Quote from: Tony Baloney on July 29, 2017, 08:59:23 AM
Buy a new battery.
True. Hoping it's not an electrical problem draining it
Next time you're finished driving it and are going to be leaving it for a few days, disconnect the battery and see what it's like when you come back. If it starts ok, you have something drawing on the battery.
Cheers. Will give that a go
Quote from: Tony Baloney on July 29, 2017, 08:34:35 PM
Quote from: Owen Brannigan on July 29, 2017, 03:08:37 PM
Quote from: Tony Baloney on July 29, 2017, 12:53:57 PM
Quote from: snoopdog on July 29, 2017, 12:03:49 PM
Quote from: Tony Baloney on July 29, 2017, 08:59:23 AM
Buy a new battery.
True. Hoping it's not an electrical problem draining it
If the battery is a few years old then it could be the battery. I was away for a week with work last month and came back and my car didn't start. It took some industrial strength jump leads to get it started as the standard Halfords type were useless. As we were taking my car to the airport last week my missus said she wasn't going on holiday until I got a new battery. I forgot how dear the f**kers were!
That was a bit last minute and unreasonable of her!
LOL. Poorly constructed sentence on my part ;D. Must try harder.
Especially when read along with the last sentence. Happy holidays!
2011 Diesel Toyota Auris. Cant seem to change down from 5th gear into 4th, have to go via 3rd gear position first. Anyone know what this could be or if a serious problem?
Worth checking owners forums id say bogball
Might be a common problem with a straight forward and cheap fix