The better half and I are going to start building our house within the next year or 2. We have got the land and roughly looking at around 100-150k mortgage to use for building. I haven't a clue about building houses or any of that construction craic so I am looking a bit of advice. What would you do differently if you were going to build your house again? What are the latest things that you would include in a house (underground heating, solar panels on the roof for example)? Who are good men to use for getting a stone finish house? Is now a good time to build? Early days at the minute but we are looking to get on the ball early and try get some of it at least started. Sorry for all the questions lads, any advice would be appreciated.
Forget about underground heating.....crap, solar panels expensive but will pay for themselves.
Quote from: Groucho on February 26, 2011, 04:39:30 PM
Forget about underground heating.....crap, solar panels expensive but will pay for themselves.
No good then? I have heard good reports about them off a few people about how they are more energy efficient but i am not convince. If it broke then it would mean digging floors up etc
Air source heat pumps are getting popular at the moment, dont know that much about them though, if its a two storey house definitely run with the homespan slabs at first floor, Its without a doubt a good time to build whilst some material prices are rising ( concrete, blocks etc due to aggregate tax) labour and subcontractor costs are going the other way
Quote from: JimStynes on February 26, 2011, 04:45:46 PM
Quote from: Groucho on February 26, 2011, 04:39:30 PM
Forget about underground heating.....crap, solar panels expensive but will pay for themselves.
No good then? I have heard good reports about them off a few people about how they are more energy efficient but i am not convince. If it broke then it would mean digging floors up etc
Have it my house for the past four years, wonderful system. I have a geo thermal system. As for the pipe breaking, it is reinforced in aluminium, no chance of it breaking down. Have the house well insulated and a seperate heating control in each room, cant recommend it highly enough.
Quote from: Groucho on February 26, 2011, 04:39:30 PM
Forget about underground heating.....crap, solar panels expensive but will pay for themselves.
Find out the projected lifespan of the solar panel and the projected pay back time and youll likely never come close to breaking even.
Is Geothermal water heating(i.e. sinking a pipe into the ground or using extensive pipework over a large area) any good and would it be any good retrofitting into existing houses?
Quote from: Denn Forever on February 26, 2011, 05:18:36 PM
Is Geothermal water heating(i.e. sinking a pipe into the ground or using extensive pipework over a large area) any good and would it be any good retrofitting into existing houses?
Thats it excatly, there would be no big issue fitting it in to an older house, the garden would have to be dug up and a heat exchanger would have to be fitted in the hot press. The biggest issue would be insualtion in an older house, you can now get wireless temp. controllers so that would not be a major issue.
Is it worth the hassle for existing houses? New build I can understand.
Only one bit of advice jim keep your house as small as you can get away with. the bigger it is the more expense it will be to finish and maintain/run. a well planned house about 1600sqft with converted attic is enough. if you have a large site an outside laundry/utility can save alot of space in your house. you can put your washing machine and dryer out there and your freezer(easier run outside) also have washing line in it i converted my garage great job. dryline the inside of all your exterior walls with insulated plasterboard and dont be tempted by the romance of high ceilings mine are 9ft its too high the heats all up in the air. put in a pot belly you can burn all your crap/waste and save bin space get one with a boiler. stanley is the best. conservatories are a waste of money. get your windows from mcmullan and o'donnell benburb, they are more expensive but they are clearly the best on the market. dont waste money on expensive tiles or kitchens they are a fashion item and you will want to change them definately after 12 years i've 4 kids and they use the kitchen as a climbing frame :o ::).finally the best advice i ever got was "DONT BUILD A HOUSE ANY BIGGER THAN YOUR PREPARED TO CARRY COAL TO". my house is 1800ft down stairs and approx 1200ft upstairs its more than adequate. SIZE MATTERS :D
Quote from: lawnseed on February 26, 2011, 09:06:01 PM
Only one bit of advice jim keep your house as small as you can get away with. the bigger it is the more expense it will be to finish and maintain/run. a well planned house about 1600sqft with converted attic is enough. if you have a large site an outside laundry/utility can save alot of space in your house. you can put your washing machine and dryer out there and your freezer(easier run outside) also have washing line in it i converted my garage great job. dryline the inside of all your exterior walls with insulated plasterboard and dont be tempted by the romance of high ceilings mine are 9ft its too high the heats all up in the air. put in a pot belly you can burn all your crap/waste and save bin space get one with a boiler. stanley is the best. conservatories are a waste of money. get your windows from mcmullan and o'donnell benburb, they are more expensive but they are clearly the best on the market. dont waste money on expensive tiles or kitchens they are a fashion item and you will want to change them definately after 12 years i've 4 kids and they use the kitchen as a climbing frame :o ::).finally the best advice i ever got was "DONT BUILD A HOUSE ANY BIGGER THAN YOUR PREPARED TO CARRY COAL TO". my house is 1800ft down stairs and approx 1200ft upstairs its more than adequate. SIZE MATTERS :D
Their PVC windows are good but there are others such as Turkington Portadown, JJ Higgings Magherafelt, Compass windows Dungiven, who would be as good if not better, Price wise Baskill W are hard to beat both In PVC and Hardwood
Quote from: fitzroyalty on February 26, 2011, 05:47:51 PM
Is it worth the hassle for existing houses? New build I can understand.
It is more than worthwhile if it is done right. If you are stuck for space a bore hole is the way to go. Get proper advice there are a lot of cowboys in this line of work.
Quote from: Newbridge Exile on February 26, 2011, 09:11:13 PM
Quote from: lawnseed on February 26, 2011, 09:06:01 PM
Only one bit of advice jim keep your house as small as you can get away with. the bigger it is the more expense it will be to finish and maintain/run. a well planned house about 1600sqft with converted attic is enough. if you have a large site an outside laundry/utility can save alot of space in your house. you can put your washing machine and dryer out there and your freezer(easier run outside) also have washing line in it i converted my garage great job. dryline the inside of all your exterior walls with insulated plasterboard and dont be tempted by the romance of high ceilings mine are 9ft its too high the heats all up in the air. put in a pot belly you can burn all your crap/waste and save bin space get one with a boiler. stanley is the best. conservatories are a waste of money. get your windows from mcmullan and o'donnell benburb, they are more expensive but they are clearly the best on the market. dont waste money on expensive tiles or kitchens they are a fashion item and you will want to change them definately after 12 years i've 4 kids and they use the kitchen as a climbing frame :o ::).finally the best advice i ever got was "DONT BUILD A HOUSE ANY BIGGER THAN YOUR PREPARED TO CARRY COAL TO". my house is 1800ft down stairs and approx 1200ft upstairs its more than adequate. SIZE MATTERS :D
Their PVC windows are good but there are others such as Turkington Portadown, JJ Higgings Magherafelt, Compass windows Dungiven, who would be as good if not better, Price wise Baskill W are hard to beat both In PVC and Hardwood
windows and doors are literally holes in your wall you need to put something decent in the space i've seen all the upvc on the market mcmullan and o'donnells are streets ahead but everyone to their own. all i know is i bought cheap and now i will be pulling them out room at a time to put mcmullan & odonnells windows/doors in... bought knowledge
Quote from: lawnseed on February 26, 2011, 09:19:46 PM
Quote from: Newbridge Exile on February 26, 2011, 09:11:13 PM
Quote from: lawnseed on February 26, 2011, 09:06:01 PM
Only one bit of advice jim keep your house as small as you can get away with. the bigger it is the more expense it will be to finish and maintain/run. a well planned house about 1600sqft with converted attic is enough. if you have a large site an outside laundry/utility can save alot of space in your house. you can put your washing machine and dryer out there and your freezer(easier run outside) also have washing line in it i converted my garage great job. dryline the inside of all your exterior walls with insulated plasterboard and dont be tempted by the romance of high ceilings mine are 9ft its too high the heats all up in the air. put in a pot belly you can burn all your crap/waste and save bin space get one with a boiler. stanley is the best. conservatories are a waste of money. get your windows from mcmullan and o'donnell benburb, they are more expensive but they are clearly the best on the market. dont waste money on expensive tiles or kitchens they are a fashion item and you will want to change them definately after 12 years i've 4 kids and they use the kitchen as a climbing frame :o ::).finally the best advice i ever got was "DONT BUILD A HOUSE ANY BIGGER THAN YOUR PREPARED TO CARRY COAL TO". my house is 1800ft down stairs and approx 1200ft upstairs its more than adequate. SIZE MATTERS :D
Their PVC windows are good but there are others such as Turkington Portadown, JJ Higgings Magherafelt, Compass windows Dungiven, who would be as good if not better, Price wise Baskill W are hard to beat both In PVC and Hardwood
windows and doors are literally holes in your wall you need to put something decent in the space i've seen all the upvc on the market mcmullan and o'donnells are streets ahead but everyone to their own. all i know is i bought cheap and now i will be pulling them out room at a time to put mcmullan & odonnells windows/doors in... bought knowledge
Do you work for mcmullan & o'donnells?? ;)
Quote from: comethekingdom on February 26, 2011, 10:08:55 PM
Quote from: lawnseed on February 26, 2011, 09:19:46 PM
Quote from: Newbridge Exile on February 26, 2011, 09:11:13 PM
Quote from: lawnseed on February 26, 2011, 09:06:01 PM
Only one bit of advice jim keep your house as small as you can get away with. the bigger it is the more expense it will be to finish and maintain/run. a well planned house about 1600sqft with converted attic is enough. if you have a large site an outside laundry/utility can save alot of space in your house. you can put your washing machine and dryer out there and your freezer(easier run outside) also have washing line in it i converted my garage great job. dryline the inside of all your exterior walls with insulated plasterboard and dont be tempted by the romance of high ceilings mine are 9ft its too high the heats all up in the air. put in a pot belly you can burn all your crap/waste and save bin space get one with a boiler. stanley is the best. conservatories are a waste of money. get your windows from mcmullan and o'donnell benburb, they are more expensive but they are clearly the best on the market. dont waste money on expensive tiles or kitchens they are a fashion item and you will want to change them definately after 12 years i've 4 kids and they use the kitchen as a climbing frame :o ::).finally the best advice i ever got was "DONT BUILD A HOUSE ANY BIGGER THAN YOUR PREPARED TO CARRY COAL TO". my house is 1800ft down stairs and approx 1200ft upstairs its more than adequate. SIZE MATTERS :D
Their PVC windows are good but there are others such as Turkington Portadown, JJ Higgings Magherafelt, Compass windows Dungiven, who would be as good if not better, Price wise Baskill W are hard to beat both In PVC and Hardwood
windows and doors are literally holes in your wall you need to put something decent in the space i've seen all the upvc on the market mcmullan and o'donnells are streets ahead but everyone to their own. all i know is i bought cheap and now i will be pulling them out room at a time to put mcmullan & odonnells windows/doors in... bought knowledge
Do you work for mcmullan 7 o'donnells?? ;)
no but my brother got their stuff so i had a good gander
Get yourself a good trustworthy builder. MMOD are one of the best in the business.
I take it this thread will just turn into an advertisement for building companies?
Quote from: Minder on February 26, 2011, 10:28:00 PM
I take it this thread will just turn into an advertisement for building companies?
Vote McMullan and O'Donnell #1.
If you do not know the game the best way is to get a builder and get him to write down to the smallest detail what he is doing for your money. It's a good time to build but youbstill need to be on the ball and watching everything, log every penny spent.
Underfloor heating? I have it but advise using rads instead with oil burner.
Insulate like it was going to be freezing every day of the year and you will not be sorry.that's my best advice.
If you do not know about building get a good engineer that will not be shy about ripping them. I did that and they hated him coming to the site which meant he was on their case and it was done right, worth every penny.
You should be sourcing blocks, sand, slate or tile, roof truss,windows,doors,and plasterboard and cement yourself and write down the price from different suppliers. In other words you will be spending a lot of time on the hoof or else on the phone but it will pay you.
Pm me if you want, I just finished building a biggish house.
If you building a house and your not going for the generic 1 and half story uninspired design IMO don't put in white PVC windows. Personally I think they are for people with no taste, even though I put them in my Dublin place; but that was more for the low maintenance.
Do listen to the people on the cheaper kitchens and some fittings. Gone are the days people spend big money on a kitchen expecting it to lat 20 odd years. They are have become as disposable as sofas and modern kitchens go out of fashion very quickly. Spend a bit of extra money on the work surface and doors; it will look every bit as good. No one will ever look inside your cupboards to see where the skeleton came from :P
fit an alarm. dont get the balls for under your soffit lighting they fill up with rain as do the square conical types electricians drill holes in them now before they fit them.. shite
Quote from: thebigfella on February 26, 2011, 10:52:04 PM
If you building a house and your not going for the generic 1 and half story uninspired design IMO don't put in white PVC windows. Personally I think they are for people with no taste, even though I put them in my Dublin place; but that was more for the low maintenance.
Do listen to the people on the cheaper kitchens and some fittings. Gone are the days people spend big money on a kitchen expecting it to lat 20 odd years. They are have become as disposable as sofas and modern kitchens go out of fashion very quickly. Spend a bit of extra money on the work surface and doors; it will look every bit as good. No one will ever look inside your cupboards to see where the skeleton came from :P
Where did you build your house? A few years ago planners wouldnt have passed anything other than "generic" houses. That's why they were designed and built that way. It's only very recently that planners and architects have both agreed that there is room for some innovation.
can vouch for mc mullan and o donnell myself
Prob not much use considering the stage your at at the min, but there is going to be a price hike on most building products from March 1st. And that's across the board. Due to the price of petrol. We're going to start building shortly ( plans are in but not passed yet) but putting the order in tomorrow. We can always cancel it if we hit problems.
Pump your cavitys with insulation and also insulate like its goin outa fashion,insulated plasterboard on all external walls,maybe even make the cavity 6inch and pump it
What's the point in having a cavity in the construction, if you are going to fill it in?
What type of construction are you going for Jim?
whats a stone finish house? is that a wooden frame house with a stone finish external cladding?
The cavities bes filled with insulation,pumped insulation seems to be better than the 100m wool insulation,also is faster as the builders can build away without having to worry about putting insulation in as they go along.Some people put insulation when there pouring the concrete at sub floor level,wouldnt bother with it,wait till put it under the finished floor,just make sure to rember to allow for it in your ceiling heights and when setting door frames for the plasterers as i know a fella got in2 a bit of a handling with it,also that latex screed for the finished floor supposed to be good dont know much about it tho
How much it cost to put a 6 person sauna in your house ?
I built my house a few years ago. Learnt a lot of things the hard way so I will try and save you the making the same mistakes.
-Before you consider a heat system you must consider 1st how to keep the heat in your house. iInsulation is critical. I strongly suggest you put foam back slab on the inside of your outer walls. 100mm thick stuff would be a good job. This is vital. Never mind pumping walls, that is mostly for old houses and is not as efficient insulatation as on the slab.
- Windows. Do not skimp on windows. Get double or triple glazed, 25mm thick or more. Windows are a hoor for letting in the cold. Get a good company to fit them. Thie cheapest in the south are probably Munster Joinery and they are absolutely useless.
- Sunrooms. Everyone likes the sunroom but beware if you are considering leaving them open plan. They get very hot in summer and cold in winter. If you go for underfloor it can really struggle with rapid temp changes in temperature of rooms.
- Open fires. They are nice and add a nice "feature" to a room. Unfortunately, they also cause drafts and let heat escape. A good alternative is to put a small stove into your fireplace. This will seal your chimney and if you do want to light the stove it will heat the room better than an open fire.
- 2 Story. If you are building a two storey I strongly suggest you go for a hollow core floor and not ply on joists. Putting floors on joists, no matter what dampening you try, will not conceal noise from upstairs.
So now to the heat system. I think anyone with an eye on being efficient has to go for underfloor. It is simply much more efficient than every other system and anyone who tells you otherwise either installed it incorrectly or likes a house that is baking hot. It does have some downsides. You cannot quickly change room temps by say +5 Deg in an hour. Underfloor is a slow steady constant heat. That is why you must be careful about sunrooms and drafts.
Underfloor could be powered by standard oil burner, wood chip or geothermal. Oil is least efficient. Wood chips were all the rage but you need an outside shed for taking bulk delivery and it will need to be really dry (ie have a heating system) as damp wood pellets spells big probs. Geothermal is my choice, ground loop is the best. A Geothermal system, underfloor pipes and cylinders/plumbing will prob cost you in the region of 15-20k (for a 2000sq/ft house approx). Get someone decent to do it. You do not want a cowboy doing this as once it is done it is done!
One other thing I would suggest is to take your time designing the layout of your home. Make a model with cornflakes boxes or whatever. To it right up front cos it is very hard to change. Nearly everyone who builds a house (myself included) was rushing to get out of rented accomodation and regrets certain aspects of design. Try and meet the county planner as that will get you brownie points when he looks at your application.
If you are considering Geothermal then you are effectively using some electricity to heat your house. One way to offset this is to have someone build a wind turbine behind your house (if you have space). This can be wired into a 2nd meter which allows you to sell any energy created back to the ESB as opposed to the older systems which tried to store the electricity in batteries and which couldn't power a kettle. A turbine could be installed for about 15k.
One final thing - what size is your house and what style (cottage, dormer, 2 storey). Your budget may need to be revised, I'm thinking a €150k would be minimum you would spend. Good luck with it!
Alternatively, if you live in Cavan, just take the pigs into the house for the winter. They are a great source of heat and you can move them from room to room as heating requirements demand.
Cavan people have understood for generations the economics of combined pig farming and central heating. Instead of spending money on oil or coal, you spend it on pigmeal. Then you sell the pigs in the Summer and actually make a profit on the whole deal. It's like being able to sell your ashes for more than you paid for the coal. Plus you can use the manure for growing spuds - free grub as well.
If you don't have pigs ... scrub that - if you live in Cavan, you have pigs.
(Great post, Myles, in all seriousness).
Great post Myles. Here's a few things I learned.
If you are going to manage the build yourself you need to have the time to do this and you need to be close enough to the site to be able to pop out there when required. I left it to a builder and was happy with the decision.
If you don;t have any experience with house building then you will be learning as you go along. That means you'll make your mistakes with this house and by the end of it you will be in a great position to do it again!
+1 on the underfloor.
Insulating your walls is easy. There's a load of options. I've found doing your ceilings to be much harder. It's difficult to do more than the average. Laying 200mm of insulation is grand if you don't intend to use the loft for storage, otherwise it's completely impractical.
Make sure the permanent stuff is done well. Tiling, timberwork, plumbing etc. Painting, kitchens etc can be easily changed.
Don't have too many windows - especially on the north side. They look good but will kill you with heat loss.
Plant trees on your site now. You can have a year or twos headstart on growth. I know this isn;t on your mind now but it will be.
Make sure your utility (or whever you will dry clothes) has a window in it.
Think about wheelchair accessablity. Hopefully you'll never need it but you may grow old in this house and 4 steps up to the front door will break your heart.
Think about where your tv's are going. Make sure you run at least 2 satellite cables to each point. If you are wall mounting a tv then think about where the sat box will go and run hdmi cables for hd tv.
Good luck with it.
Quote from: RMDrive on February 27, 2011, 10:32:24 PM
Great post Myles. Here's a few things I learned.
If you are going to manage the build yourself you need to have the time to do this and you need to be close enough to the site to be able to pop out there when required. I left it to a builder and was happy with the decision.
If you don;t have any experience with house building then you will be learning as you go along. That means you'll make your mistakes with this house and by the end of it you will be in a great position to do it again!
+1 on the underfloor.
Insulating your walls is easy. There's a load of options. I've found doing your ceilings to be much harder. It's difficult to do more than the average. Laying 200mm of insulation is grand if you don't intend to use the loft for storage, otherwise it's completely impractical.
Make sure the permanent stuff is done well. Tiling, timberwork, plumbing etc. Painting, kitchens etc can be easily changed.
Don't have too many windows - especially on the north side. They look good but will kill you with heat loss.
Plant trees on your site now. You can have a year or twos headstart on growth. I know this isn;t on your mind now but it will be.
Make sure your utility (or whever you will dry clothes) has a window in it.
Think about wheelchair accessablity. Hopefully you'll never need it but you may grow old in this house and 4 steps up to the front door will break your heart.
Think about where your tv's are going. Make sure you run at least 2 satellite cables to each point. If you are wall mounting a tv then think about where the sat box will go and run hdmi cables for hd tv.
Good luck with it.
Is disability access not mandatory in houses in the south? We spent some time working out a wheelchair ramp at the back of the house that didn't look like crap.
How do I post pictures from my home computer lads? I have a photo of the sort of house we are looking that i could put up.
We have a site passed and foundations are but we are looking to change the plans now, this is also going to be a pain in the ass and could take a while. We may have to rent for a year or two but i would rather do it right and not cut any corners. I won't be managing the build as i don't have any experience in this. We are at an early stage but trying to get on the ball now.
Cheers for all the advice by the way. I think i will make this an official thread as I am sure others will probably find this quite useful as well.
Don't have underfloor heating myself but know of 3 other people that do. 2 of those 3 have been in their house a couple of years now and think its a disaster, one person in particular recently put a radiator in one of his living rooms in order to generate some more heat.
Quote from: loughshore lad on February 28, 2011, 08:50:33 AM
Don't have underfloor heating myself but know of 3 other people that do. 2 of those 3 have been in their house a couple of years now and think its a disaster, one person in particular recently put a radiator in one of his living rooms in order to generate some more heat.
They should really go back to the people that installed it for them. A correctly installed UFH system with the correct number of stats and zones will work really well. Sounds like they have been let down badly. At the end of the day a UFH system is fairly simple. You run a network of pipes through a concrete floor and you pump hot fluid through it. This heats the concrete which releases the heat to the room. It's just a big rad.
Quote from: JimStynes on February 27, 2011, 11:44:30 PM
How do I post pictures from my home computer lads? I have a photo of the sort of house we are looking that i could put up.
You can use a free image hosting sharing site to store the image, like photobucket etc.
http://photobucket.com/?link=topmenu (http://photobucket.com/?link=topmenu)
Once uploaded there, you can post the image here. Just copy the image link provided, and paste the link inside the image tags in your post here.
Something like this lads. Sorry about the size, i dont know how to make the images smaller.
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee413/JimStynes/IMG00152-20110227-1515.jpg)
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee413/JimStynes/stone.jpg)
That's a project and a half.
I'd start with the garage first and move into in the attic there :)
What part of the design do you want to change? the upper floor perhaps?
The original plans aren't for the house posted in the picture. We are looking to completely change the plans to something similar to the house in the picture above, probably not as big on the upper floors of that house though. If we didnt already have the land we wouldnt dream of trying to build a house like that.
Thats a dormer design. Remember what I said above about insulation, well you need to apply the same importance to the insulation of the ceiling in your upstairs rooms. You can buy Insulation from Kingspan or whoever or you can get those guys that blow insulation into wall cavities to blow it in between the rafters - its expensive but a class job. Do not skimp on this.
That natural stone is very expensive just so you know, labour is very intense as it takes a lot of time. The most expensive part of that house will be your roof cos of the complexities to the roofers around the windows.
Quote from: RMDrive on February 28, 2011, 09:18:44 AM
Quote from: loughshore lad on February 28, 2011, 08:50:33 AM
Don't have underfloor heating myself but know of 3 other people that do. 2 of those 3 have been in their house a couple of years now and think its a disaster, one person in particular recently put a radiator in one of his living rooms in order to generate some more heat.
They should really go back to the people that installed it for them. A correctly installed UFH system with the correct number of stats and zones will work really well. Sounds like they have been let down badly. At the end of the day a UFH system is fairly simple. You run a network of pipes through a concrete floor and you pump hot fluid through it. This heats the concrete which releases the heat to the room. It's just a big rad.
Exactly, the country is full of lads who let on they know about underfloor and geothermal and many of them have not got a clue.
You must be getting a loan aff yer day JimStynes!!!!!
Or you've won the lotto and haven't told us....
Just finished a self build and my god am I glad its over. Had know experience of this previous. Heres a few things I picked up along the way in no particular order.
As was said earlier insulate the shite out of it. I put in a 150mm cavity pumped, 50mm wall insulation. air tightness membrane, tape around windows, etc. Probably a bit over the top but really happy with the results.
The heating took ages to decide. Went through every option but finally decided on air to water heatpump with underfloor heating and heat recovery system. Again so far so good. This combined with the insulation is giving great results. For example rooms only loose about 1-2 degrres in heat during the night with no heating on.
Go for triple glaze windows. Got mine in gradys joinery. The difference in price between double and triple glaze was only 10%. Gradys have a savage triple glaze.
When putting in fireplaces remember to have the size for the block layer. Also if you are putting in heat recovery it makes thing handier if fireplaces are on an outside wall.
+1 on the hollowcore. I work shift work and never hear a thing from downstairs during the day.
Have an idea how much insulation you want to put into the floor at the start. They recommend that you put as much as you can into it but it can add up in cost. The height of d0or frames is usually standard but only allows 75mm insulation.
Put in cat6 cable to all rooms. Even if you dont use it now you might in the future. Think hard about how you wire sound and tv in rooms. I had a go at this myself and made a lot of mistakes. I reckon id make a great job of it the second time.
That all I can think of at the mo. Ill add more if I think of it
Quote from: mylestheslasher on February 28, 2011, 07:41:27 PM
Quote from: RMDrive on February 28, 2011, 09:18:44 AM
Quote from: loughshore lad on February 28, 2011, 08:50:33 AM
Don't have underfloor heating myself but know of 3 other people that do. 2 of those 3 have been in their house a couple of years now and think its a disaster, one person in particular recently put a radiator in one of his living rooms in order to generate some more heat.
They should really go back to the people that installed it for them. A correctly installed UFH system with the correct number of stats and zones will work really well. Sounds like they have been let down badly. At the end of the day a UFH system is fairly simple. You run a network of pipes through a concrete floor and you pump hot fluid through it. This heats the concrete which releases the heat to the room. It's just a big rad.
Exactly, the country is full of lads who let on they know about underfloor and geothermal and many of them have not got a clue.
The 2 people who have it both work in the construction industry and would be very particular about things with the research well done. To clarify its not a geothermal source of heat they are using rather an oil burner in each case but neither person recommends it at all. Maybe they have been caught but just posting for comparative purposes.
Quote from: The Gs Man on February 28, 2011, 08:32:24 PM
You must be getting a loan aff yer day JimStynes!!!!!
Or you've won the lotto and haven't told us....
I won the lotto Gs man. Dont tell anyone though....
We are going to rent for a while but we are building up near her house asap. Need to get ideas of plans etc sorted now
Anybody know any good architects in the north (we live close to lurgan btw)? good ones, not all your mates now! ;)
Have you considered your water supply? Might be worth considering drilling a borehole, especially with water charges on the agenda in the south.
Quote from: Maguire01 on February 28, 2011, 11:05:41 PM
Have you considered your water supply? Might be worth considering drilling a borehole, especially with water charges on the agenda in the south.
I think some Co Councils are now insisting on planning permission for people to do this to ensure that they have to be on group water schemes and of course pay fees. Maybe it is not law yet.
Quote from: criostlinn on February 28, 2011, 09:48:36 PM
For example rooms only loose about 1-2 degrres in heat during the night with no heating on.
Any fresh air allowed into the house?
Quote+1 on the hollowcore. I work shift work and never hear a thing from downstairs during the day.
People are well pleased with their hollowcore.
I would add as compulsory, sound insulate interior partitions, plus extra soundproofing for kid's rooms. No joke, use hotel standards of sound insulation for those rooms. Lead walls preferrably :)
QuotePut in cat6 cable to all rooms. Even if you dont use it now you might in the future. Think hard about how you wire sound and tv in rooms. I had a go at this myself and made a lot of mistakes. I reckon id make a great job of it the second time.
Planning this was probably more taxing than playing a chess grandmaster.
I eventually settled on attractive enough, home made wooden, easy accessable external conduits, running mostly just under the window shelf in the tv room & office, where there were lots and lots of cables (sat/net/speakers/hdmi/rca etc.etc). Not only can you easily update/recable but you have much more flexibility re positioning.
Around the rest of the house, net/tv/telephone cables were hidden behind panels/lists that were purposely made for easy access to the cable conduit.
For curiosity purposes
If you were to start to plan a reasonable size house how much would it approx cost to get plans done - approved (given no hitches copuld be forseen) - footings in and sub floor poured. No purchase of site required.
Quote from: Radda bout yeee on March 02, 2011, 04:53:12 PM
For curiosity purposes
If you were to start to plan a reasonable size house how much would it approx cost to get plans done - approved (given no hitches copuld be forseen) - footings in and sub floor poured. No purchase of site required.
Radda,
I'm sure there are variations throughout the country but I'd say you need the following:
Architects fees of around £1.20 per square foot split into 2 payments (1 usually at planning submission and 1 at building control submission). Was around £1.40-£1.50 at height of the boom. If you know someone who can do it as a homer job rather than through an architects office you could get it cheaper.
Full planning permission fee of £651.
Building control fee of £75 if the house is lees than 250m2. If it's more than this then the fee is worked out on a rough cost estimate. Can be beteeen £200-£300.
In order to have the building control application accepted as valid you have to submitt a SAP calculation with the building control drawings (basically an energy assessment of how your green you house is. You have to achieve a certin level of energy efficiency). This can be an extra £100 if you architect can do it hime self or he might get an external consultant to do. Would still be about £100.
Depending on the design of you house, a structural engineer may be required to size any beams that are needed. Even if your intention is to just put in the founds and leave it for a couple of years, you have to submit the building control application in order to start on site and they will go ahead and access the plans. They will need any beam sizes to pass the plans. If you don't provide that then they can refuse the building control and you'll have to submitt an new building control application at a later date. Some councils are strict on this and some aren't.
Wouldn't have a clue about how much to put the founds in.
There could also be an inspection fee from building control to come out an inspect the founds. Around another £200. This is how it would be done in the north anyway.
QuoteThere could also be an inspection fee from building control to come out an inspect the founds.
Had to pay building control £1165 following their first visit to the site to inspect the foundations. This fee covers all of their visits throughout the build.
As most people are saying Jim, Insulation should be your no1 concern.
We built 4 years ago and although there are many things I would do differently, the house keeps heat in well which is useful if we are going to have more winters like last year.
We got a contractor and obviously you will pay more for it but the house was finished in 10 months and stress was kept to a minimum.
Wood pellets might be something to go for if oil eeps on an upward spiral.
Agree with keeping things to what you need, although we didn't build a garage and still haven't got round to it.
Also a big garden looks great but who will be cutting the grass every week?
All the best with it.
Quote from: Orangemac on March 03, 2011, 09:55:02 PM
Wood pellets might be something to go for if oil (k)eeps on an upward spiral.
Count on it- not only the base price but tax on oil and derivative products will accelerate sharpish
Quote from: JimStynes on February 26, 2011, 04:19:56 PM
The better half and I are going to start building our house within the next year or 2. We have got the land and roughly looking at around 100-150k mortgage to use for building. I haven't a clue about building houses or any of that construction craic so I am looking a bit of advice. What would you do differently if you were going to build your house again? What are the latest things that you would include in a house (underground heating, solar panels on the roof for example)? Who are good men to use for getting a stone finish house? Is now a good time to build? Early days at the minute but we are looking to get on the ball early and try get some of it at least started. Sorry for all the questions lads, any advice would be appreciated.
Jim, There's lots of replies so far that as a two time self builder myself i agree with. The only thing that hasn't been covered as far as I can see and its
the most important piece of advice of all.......Hold money of every b@st@rd tradesman that comes about the place until you are
entirely satisfied with what they have delivered.
That may sound a bit harsh and apologies to every decent tradesman on this board, but Jim, no matter how civil or how helpful your tradesmen appear to you, if things go t!ts up, you're only chance of getting your job done to your satisfaction is to have more money in your pocket than is left on the job!
If there is more work to be done than the tradesman is owed, his interest naturally lessens and if there are any disagreements (or fiascos/acts of God/vandalism etc), you will struggle to get the job finished. If you want to stay in control of the situation, you need to hold money until the t's are crossed and the i's are dotted. Once you over pay, you've lost control and if you do, you can curse every time for the next 20 years when you look at a bit of plastering or tiling etc that wasn't done right.
Be warned, it will take a hard neck on your part from time to time, because even the tradesmen on here will all admit that they are no strangers to a wee bit of conflict and will be well ready to make demands of you, but hold firm and you'll get what your paying for. Apologies if this sounds patronising, but its business, not personal and although they will all appeal to your sensibilities, they know that its simply business too. They are in this game all the time, you are only in it for a few months or a year.
Oh and get site insuarnce too. Few hundred quid is well worth the piece of mind it gives.
Quote from: JimStynes on February 28, 2011, 02:30:57 PM
Something like this lads. Sorry about the size, i dont know how to make the images smaller.
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee413/JimStynes/IMG00152-20110227-1515.jpg)
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee413/JimStynes/stone.jpg)
jim thats a beautiful house but consider the size try to keep it as small as possible. i know a lad who was selling houses in a posh area of armagh he had a big show house and several medium ones and a few that i would have considered pensioners houses he was very up beat at the time me that he was sure he had two "victoms" for the show house she was a barrister and the hubby was a head teacher they both landed while i was there so i cleared. she was driving a bmw coupe and he had a bmw jeep- both new. your man was delighted. i rang him later that evening to ask how he got on. they went straight to the small houses and never even asked the price of the show house when my mate suggested the show house he was told they had a 'lifeplan' and both intended to retire in their early fifties and paying for a huge house wasnt part of their plans they wouldnt be able to buy new cars etc.. we both laughed at the time and i think the term stingey bastards might have been used once but how wise they were, had they bought at the time they would now stand to loose around 130grand if they wanted to move. think 20 years down the line a big house will need gutted doors will need changed or fashions/mrs.stynes may demand new stuff it could require another mortgage :o
Quote from: lawnseed on March 06, 2011, 11:58:26 PM
Quote from: JimStynes on February 28, 2011, 02:30:57 PM
Something like this lads. Sorry about the size, i dont know how to make the images smaller.
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee413/JimStynes/IMG00152-20110227-1515.jpg)
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee413/JimStynes/stone.jpg)
jim thats a beautiful house but consider the size try to keep it as small as possible. i know a lad who was selling houses in a posh area of armagh he had a big show house and several medium ones and a few that i would have considered pensioners houses he was very up beat at the time me that he was sure he had two "victoms" for the show house she was a barrister and the hubby was a head teacher they both landed while i was there so i cleared. she was driving a bmw coupe and he had a bmw jeep- both new. your man was delighted. i rang him later that evening to ask how he got on. they went straight to the small houses and never even asked the price of the show house when my mate suggested the show house he was told they had a 'lifeplan' and both intended to retire in their early fifties and paying for a huge house wasnt part of their plans they wouldnt be able to buy new cars etc.. we both laughed at the time and i think the term stingey b**tards might have been used once but how wise they were, had they bought at the time they would now stand to loose around 130grand if they wanted to move. think 20 years down the line a big house will need gutted doors will need changed or fashions/mrs.stynes may demand new stuff it could require another mortgage :o
The above is a typical, thoughtless Irish house. 4 bedroom dormers with a sun room stuck on the side seem to be all the rage with people with no taste.
Quote from: All of a Sludden on March 07, 2011, 12:04:20 AM
Quote from: lawnseed on March 06, 2011, 11:58:26 PM
Quote from: JimStynes on February 28, 2011, 02:30:57 PM
Something like this lads. Sorry about the size, i dont know how to make the images smaller.
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee413/JimStynes/IMG00152-20110227-1515.jpg)
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee413/JimStynes/stone.jpg)
jim thats a beautiful house but consider the size try to keep it as small as possible. i know a lad who was selling houses in a posh area of armagh he had a big show house and several medium ones and a few that i would have considered pensioners houses he was very up beat at the time me that he was sure he had two "victoms" for the show house she was a barrister and the hubby was a head teacher they both landed while i was there so i cleared. she was driving a bmw coupe and he had a bmw jeep- both new. your man was delighted. i rang him later that evening to ask how he got on. they went straight to the small houses and never even asked the price of the show house when my mate suggested the show house he was told they had a 'lifeplan' and both intended to retire in their early fifties and paying for a huge house wasnt part of their plans they wouldnt be able to buy new cars etc.. we both laughed at the time and i think the term stingey b**tards might have been used once but how wise they were, had they bought at the time they would now stand to loose around 130grand if they wanted to move. think 20 years down the line a big house will need gutted doors will need changed or fashions/mrs.stynes may demand new stuff it could require another mortgage :o
The above is a typical, thoughtless Irish house. 4 bedroom dormers with a sun room stuck on the side seem to be all the rage with people with no taste.
Agreed, country is overrun with houses like this
jim thats a beautiful house but consider the size try to keep it as small as possible. i know a lad who was selling houses in a posh area of armagh he had a big show house and several medium ones and a few that i would have considered pensioners houses he was very up beat at the time me that he was sure he had two "victoms" for the show house she was a barrister and the hubby was a head teacher they both landed while i was there so i cleared. she was driving a bmw coupe and he had a bmw jeep- both new. your man was delighted. i rang him later that evening to ask how he got on. they went straight to the small houses and never even asked the price of the show house when my mate suggested the show house he was told they had a 'lifeplan' and both intended to retire in their early fifties and paying for a huge house wasnt part of their plans they wouldnt be able to buy new cars etc.. we both laughed at the time and i think the term stingey b**tards might have been used once but how wise they were, had they bought at the time they would now stand to loose around 130grand if they wanted to move. think 20 years down the line a big house will need gutted doors will need changed or fashions/mrs.stynes may demand new stuff it could require another mortgage :o
[/quote]
Wouldn't want a big massive house lawn for the very reasons you have pointed out. The pic is just an example of the type of house i would be after (this may change though). Mainly because I love the stone finish on it. Definitely wouldnt go any bigger than that.
All of a sludden/bigfella, as i said earlier we are only getting ideas at the minute. Post up some pics of nice houses to give us an idea of what else is out there.
Jim despite what the doom mongers will tell you its a good time to build a house. Labour costs have been slashed, materials are much cheaper and builders need the work. Architects are doing nothing, you`ll get a free consultation and a look at their work.
Your best bet is to go for a drive in a good area and have a look at what is out there, find out what you like. It would be a shame to end up with a boring 4 bed dormer when there are so many options available to you.
When you decide what you want have a chat with the local planning officer, get an idea of what he wants and will allow. Mention rain water harvesting, solar panels and the likes and you are half way there.
Quote from: All of a Sludden on March 07, 2011, 12:33:53 AM
Jim despite what the doom mongers will tell you its a good time to build a house. Labour costs have been slashed, materials are much cheaper and builders need the work. Architects are doing nothing, you`ll get a free consultation and a look at their work.
Your best bet is to go for a drive in a good area and have a look at what is out there, find out what you like. It would be a shame to end up with a boring 4 bed dormer when there are so many options available to you.
When you decide what you want have a chat with the local planning officer, get an idea of what he wants and will allow. Mention rain water harvesting, solar panels and the likes and you are half way there.
Cheers for the advice . I probably sound boring but I honestly like that type of house and so does the fiancee. We have had a drive about the country and this sort of house appeals to us at the minute. We could see something else though and change our minds completely so i am keeping an open mind at the minute. If you know any good sites with examples of different designs send us a PM sure.
jim i know your not thinking of this but i was with a guy last week who bought a log cabin kit from estonia...approx 1500sq/ft i know your thinking shite.. but its class looking and very easy to heat etc i think he said it cost him 60,000stg complete. the whole lot came on three trucks, windows, doors, kitchen.. everything. all he had to buy was his appliances.. he was in it in three weeks. i think these will catch on 8)
For those who have completed a house already, what approx. % of the total build costs would you have reached when the house is sitting with the block work completed, roof on, windows in and house sealed? (No first fixes done yet etc.)
I realise this all depends on the level of finish in the house, but just after a ball park %.
Quote from: balladmaker on March 09, 2011, 11:01:58 AM
For those who have completed a house already, what approx. % of the total build costs would you have reached when the house is sitting with the block work completed, roof on, windows in and house sealed? (No first fixes done yet etc.)
I realise this all depends on the level of finish in the house, but just after a ball park %.
£50 to £75 per square foot was the norm pre boom where it all went a bit mad with plasterers taking home almost £1K a week, so I'd expect it to be back down around those levels.
Some materials are rising like hell in price in particular plastics such as insulation, guttering, sewage and the likes, might push the price up a bit.
Would anyone have an example of a 'Grant of Easement' letter that I could tailor for my own situtation. I have done a google search to no avail. Nothing really suitable.
Quote from: balladmaker on March 09, 2011, 11:01:58 AM
For those who have completed a house already, what approx. % of the total build costs would you have reached when the house is sitting with the block work completed, roof on, windows in and house sealed? (No first fixes done yet etc.)
I realise this all depends on the level of finish in the house, but just after a ball park %.
When i built 4 years ago, i was at 40% at that stage, i am in the game so the costs were quite low. People seems to foget its the fit out that costs the dosh.
Quote from: Hilltresk on March 09, 2011, 01:46:04 PM
Would anyone have an example of a 'Grant of Easement' letter that I could tailor for my own situtation. I have done a google search to no avail. Nothing really suitable.
I might have one on file. I'll take a look
Quote from: lawnseed on March 08, 2011, 11:06:56 PM
jim i know your not thinking of this but i was with a guy last week who bought a log cabin kit from estonia...approx 1500sq/ft i know your thinking shite.. but its class looking and very easy to heat etc i think he said it cost him 60,000stg complete. the whole lot came on three trucks, windows, doors, kitchen.. everything. all he had to buy was his appliances.. he was in it in three weeks. i think these will catch on 8)
Where is the cabin and would he mind people coming to have a look.
Quote from: el_cuervo_fc on March 09, 2011, 06:44:58 PM
Quote from: Hilltresk on March 09, 2011, 01:46:04 PM
Would anyone have an example of a 'Grant of Easement' letter that I could tailor for my own situtation. I have done a google search to no avail. Nothing really suitable.
I might have one on file. I'll take a look
That would be great. Let me know if you have anything. Cheers.
jim checkout ristiku.com and hit the special offers 22500 euro. ;) you could have 6 of these for your budget. you could have a village :D 8)
Quote from: All of a Sludden on March 07, 2011, 12:33:53 AM
Jim despite what the doom mongers will tell you its a good time to build a house. Labour costs have been slashed, materials are much cheaper and builders need the work. Architects are doing nothing, you`ll get a free consultation and a look at their work.
Your best bet is to go for a drive in a good area and have a look at what is out there, find out what you like. It would be a shame to end up with a boring 4 bed dormer when there are so many options available to you.
When you decide what you want have a chat with the local planning officer, get an idea of what he wants and will allow. Mention rain water harvesting, solar panels and the likes and you are half way there.
Doom mongers, this from the guy that described his proposed house as "a typical, thoughtless Irish house". You are to posting what Sludden is to refereeing!
Anyway, no one said it was a bad time to build. I expressed some concern about his budget thats all.
Quote from: An Gaeilgoir on March 09, 2011, 01:51:35 PM
Quote from: balladmaker on March 09, 2011, 11:01:58 AM
For those who have completed a house already, what approx. % of the total build costs would you have reached when the house is sitting with the block work completed, roof on, windows in and house sealed? (No first fixes done yet etc.)
I realise this all depends on the level of finish in the house, but just after a ball park %.
When i built 4 years ago, i was at 40% at that stage, i am in the game so the costs were quite low. People seems to foget its the fit out that costs the dosh.
I would have guessed around 50-60%. The other thing to note is that the first bit will fly up but its the fit out that is the slow bit thereafter.
what'd you think of the log cabins site myles
Quote from: lawnseed on March 13, 2011, 10:33:28 AM
what'd you think of the log cabins site myles
Dunno to be honest. You'd imagine they'd be fit for the elements being made in Estonia and you see them in those northern european countries but I am a fan of blocks & mortar!
A log cabin is ok in the right setting, it needs to be in or very close to a forest to look right, in my opinion. There is a largeish log cabin just above Omeath, but it is sitting on its own and looks wrong. Where as there is another one one the other side of the mountain, in a wooded setting that looks much better.
£40-£45 per square foot should put her up.
Quote from: StGallsGAA on March 13, 2011, 07:08:31 PM
£40-£45 per square foot should put her up.
that big log cabin offer is sold, it was 2450sqft for 22500euro theres another one for 16000euro some of these dont need a concrete base just hard core..
For those who did a self build, if not using a main contractor, how did you come up with costings so as to satisfy the mortgage provider? Has anyone any experience of using a Quantity Surveyor to cost materials and labour?
anyone know what the general building regulations are for someone building an agricultural building beside your house?
can they just stick up what the want, anywhere or are there regulaions for how close it can be, if it affects your view etc?
Quote from: blewuporstuffed on March 19, 2011, 09:32:14 PM
anyone know what the general building regulations are for someone building an agricultural building beside your house?
can they just stick up what the want, anywhere or are there regulaions for how close it can be, if it affects your view etc?
You can build an agricultural building up to 300sq m without the need for planning permission if:
Its on an agricultural holding over 0.5 hectares
The nearest part of the building is within 75m of the main farm dwelling
More than 75m than your nearest neighbouring dwelling
Distance set back from the road depends on the class of the road. On C class roads the building must be more than 9m from the centre of the road.
The farm also needs to be established for more than 6 years.
That covers most if it.
Quote from: balladmaker on March 09, 2011, 11:01:58 AM
For those who have completed a house already, what approx. % of the total build costs would you have reached when the house is sitting with the block work completed, roof on, windows in and house sealed? (No first fixes done yet etc.)
I realise this all depends on the level of finish in the house, but just after a ball park %.
That's exactly the stage I'm at balladmaker... Goin by what I've borrowed and what I have spent so far I hope I'm at around 45%
QuoteThat's exactly the stage I'm at balladmaker... Goin by what I've borrowed and what I have spent so far I hope I'm at around 45%
I'm hoping that is the case as well. I got a surveryor to do out a costing for me, but I thought it was inflated and contained a load of stuff which wasn't neccessary to make the house liveable e.g. driveways done, all rooms floored and decorated etc. etc.
On cavity insulation, what are the pro's and con's between installing sheet insulation in the cavity during the block build versus pumping in the insulation after the blockwork is completed?
I'm hoping to come back home in the next year or two.
I was hoping to build a house for me and the family when I do come home.
I have a site already left to me from a relation who has passed on and I would have a good bit of savings and with a small mortgage could probably have €200,000 to spend.
Would this be enough to get me from foundations to eventually a turnkey house fully complete?
I'm not into huge houses but would be thinking along the lines of 4 bed Dormer maybe about 2000sq ft.
I left Ireland 15 years ago so am not well up on prices etc.
Was also thinking along the lines of a closed panel timber frame house like this http://www.ttfc.ie/closed_panel_house_kits/index.html
has anyone any experience of them? From my understanding all I'd need is someone to do foundations then a plumber,Electrician,Tiler etc
All the painting and landscaping could be done by myself.
Can anyone offer any advice?
Just a quick question for a bit of advise.
Have a Bungalow and detached garage that I built. Haven't really got around to doing anything to the outside of it yet. But was considering painting it myself now if we get a bit of good weather. Is this a big job? Would I be better getting someone in to do it? I have done a bit of indoor painting in my time but never taken on out door stuff like this. Not even sure what paint to use!! Any advise would be welcome.
Quote from: supersarsfields on April 01, 2011, 01:35:30 PM
Just a quick question for a bit of advise.
Have a Bungalow and detached garage that I built. Haven't really got around to doing anything to the outside of it yet. But was considering painting it myself now if we get a bit of good weather. Is this a big job? Would I be better getting someone in to do it? I have done a bit of indoor painting in my time but never taken on out door stuff like this. Not even sure what paint to use!! Any advise would be welcome.
Masonry paint would be a good place to start :)
It's not a huge job really,if you are anyway handy at all you should be able do it easy enough.
Cheers LL. Might look into getting it done shortly. I suppose if I mess up I can always get someone else in to sort it out!!
Dave, below is a post from Myles that will answer some questions and prompt others. Some great advise in this thread. Best of luck
Quote from: Dave on April 01, 2011, 01:23:09 PM
I'm hoping to come back home in the next year or two.
I was hoping to build a house for me and the family when I do come home.
I have a site already left to me from a relation who has passed on and I would have a good bit of savings and with a small mortgage could probably have €200,000 to spend.
Would this be enough to get me from foundations to eventually a turnkey house fully complete?
I'm not into huge houses but would be thinking along the lines of 4 bed Dormer maybe about 2000sq ft.
I left Ireland 15 years ago so am not well up on prices etc.
Was also thinking along the lines of a closed panel timber frame house like this http://www.ttfc.ie/closed_panel_house_kits/index.html
has anyone any experience of them? From my understanding all I'd need is someone to do foundations then a plumber,Electrician,Tiler etc
All the painting and landscaping could be done by myself.
Can anyone offer any advice?
Quote from: mylestheslasher on February 27, 2011, 08:48:41 PM
I built my house a few years ago. Learnt a lot of things the hard way so I will try and save you the making the same mistakes.
-Before you consider a heat system you must consider 1st how to keep the heat in your house. iInsulation is critical. I strongly suggest you put foam back slab on the inside of your outer walls. 100mm thick stuff would be a good job. This is vital. Never mind pumping walls, that is mostly for old houses and is not as efficient insulatation as on the slab.
- Windows. Do not skimp on windows. Get double or triple glazed, 25mm thick or more. Windows are a hoor for letting in the cold. Get a good company to fit them. Thie cheapest in the south are probably Munster Joinery and they are absolutely useless.
- Sunrooms. Everyone likes the sunroom but beware if you are considering leaving them open plan. They get very hot in summer and cold in winter. If you go for underfloor it can really struggle with rapid temp changes in temperature of rooms.
- Open fires. They are nice and add a nice "feature" to a room. Unfortunately, they also cause drafts and let heat escape. A good alternative is to put a small stove into your fireplace. This will seal your chimney and if you do want to light the stove it will heat the room better than an open fire.
- 2 Story. If you are building a two storey I strongly suggest you go for a hollow core floor and not ply on joists. Putting floors on joists, no matter what dampening you try, will not conceal noise from upstairs.
So now to the heat system. I think anyone with an eye on being efficient has to go for underfloor. It is simply much more efficient than every other system and anyone who tells you otherwise either installed it incorrectly or likes a house that is baking hot. It does have some downsides. You cannot quickly change room temps by say +5 Deg in an hour. Underfloor is a slow steady constant heat. That is why you must be careful about sunrooms and drafts.
Underfloor could be powered by standard oil burner, wood chip or geothermal. Oil is least efficient. Wood chips were all the rage but you need an outside shed for taking bulk delivery and it will need to be really dry (ie have a heating system) as damp wood pellets spells big probs. Geothermal is my choice, ground loop is the best. A Geothermal system, underfloor pipes and cylinders/plumbing will prob cost you in the region of 15-20k (for a 2000sq/ft house approx). Get someone decent to do it. You do not want a cowboy doing this as once it is done it is done!
One other thing I would suggest is to take your time designing the layout of your home. Make a model with cornflakes boxes or whatever. To it right up front cos it is very hard to change. Nearly everyone who builds a house (myself included) was rushing to get out of rented accomodation and regrets certain aspects of design. Try and meet the county planner as that will get you brownie points when he looks at your application.
If you are considering Geothermal then you are effectively using some electricity to heat your house. One way to offset this is to have someone build a wind turbine behind your house (if you have space). This can be wired into a 2nd meter which allows you to sell any energy created back to the ESB as opposed to the older systems which tried to store the electricity in batteries and which couldn't power a kettle. A turbine could be installed for about 15k.
One final thing - what size is your house and what style (cottage, dormer, 2 storey). Your budget may need to be revised, I'm thinking a €150k would be minimum you would spend. Good luck with it!
Quote from: el_cuervo_fc on March 19, 2011, 10:11:40 PM
Quote from: blewuporstuffed on March 19, 2011, 09:32:14 PM
anyone know what the general building regulations are for someone building an agricultural building beside your house?
can they just stick up what the want, anywhere or are there regulaions for how close it can be, if it affects your view etc?
You can build an agricultural building up to 300sq m without the need for planning permission if:
Its on an agricultural holding over 0.5 hectares
The nearest part of the building is within 75m of the main farm dwelling
More than 75m than your nearest neighbouring dwelling
Distance set back from the road depends on the class of the road. On C class roads the building must be more than 9m from the centre of the road.
The farm also needs to be established for more than 6 years. That covers most if it.
right let me get this straight, i'll use a typical scenario here, you have ground and have buildings etc on it, however you have ground a couple of miles away i.e. 2 holdings, you want to put up a shed on the ground on round the road where you have no dwelling but you can't because there is no other dwelling there? Furthermore you are regestired 3 or 4 years then they will tell you to wait 2 or 3 years until your 6 years are up before you can build a shed etc, that is farcical
Denn Forever thanks for your reply.
QuoteOne final thing - what size is your house and what style (cottage, dormer, 2 storey). Your budget may need to be revised, I'm thinking a €150k would be minimum you would spend. Good luck with it!
Mylestheslasher when you say 150k are you talking just to put the house up or do you mean a fully furnished house?
Quote from: Dave on April 01, 2011, 02:11:13 PM
Denn Forever thanks for your reply.
QuoteOne final thing - what size is your house and what style (cottage, dormer, 2 storey). Your budget may need to be revised, I'm thinking a €150k would be minimum you would spend. Good luck with it!
Mylestheslasher when you say 150k are you talking just to put the house up or do you mean a fully furnished house?
Depends on the house but I'd guess a fully furnished house closer to 200k.
Quote from: Banana Man on April 01, 2011, 02:04:43 PM
right let me get this straight, i'll use a typical scenario here, you have ground and have buildings etc on it, however you have ground a couple of miles away i.e. 2 holdings, you want to put up a shed on the ground on round the road where you have no dwelling but you can't because there is no other dwelling there? Furthermore you are regestired 3 or 4 years then they will tell you to wait 2 or 3 years until your 6 years are up before you can build a shed etc, that is farcical
You would have to apply for planning permission for a shed on the other holding. You would have to present a case as to why it was essential for the building to be located at this place.
Quote from: balladmaker on March 31, 2011, 12:21:52 AM
QuoteThat's exactly the stage I'm at balladmaker... Goin by what I've borrowed and what I have spent so far I hope I'm at around 45%
I'm hoping that is the case as well. I got a surveryor to do out a costing for me, but I thought it was inflated and contained a load of stuff which wasn't neccessary to make the house liveable e.g. driveways done, all rooms floored and decorated etc. etc.
On cavity insulation, what are the pro's and con's between installing sheet insulation in the cavity during the block build versus pumping in the insulation after the blockwork is completed?
Iv went for the blow in bead insulation. Further more I've insulated all the external walls with 1/2 " plasterboard with 1" kingspan. The same plasterboard on upstairs ceilings with 100mil kingspan between the rafters.
To me it's seems like a serious amount of insulation especially wen you consider the 8x4 sheet of that insulated plasterboard in £18 a pop and I needed 120 sheets, but building control have started asking for it and the aul fella has been bangn on something serious about insulating to the max.
Quote from: Hank Everlast on April 01, 2011, 11:41:21 PM
Quote from: balladmaker on March 31, 2011, 12:21:52 AM
QuoteThat's exactly the stage I'm at balladmaker... Goin by what I've borrowed and what I have spent so far I hope I'm at around 45%
I'm hoping that is the case as well. I got a surveryor to do out a costing for me, but I thought it was inflated and contained a load of stuff which wasn't neccessary to make the house liveable e.g. driveways done, all rooms floored and decorated etc. etc.
On cavity insulation, what are the pro's and con's between installing sheet insulation in the cavity during the block build versus pumping in the insulation after the blockwork is completed?
Iv went for the blow in bead insulation. Further more I've insulated all the external walls with 1/2 " plasterboard with 1" kingspan. The same plasterboard on upstairs ceilings with 100mil kingspan between the rafters.
To me it's seems like a serious amount of insulation especially wen you consider the 8x4 sheet of that insulated plasterboard in £18 a pop and I needed 120 sheets, but building control have started asking for it and the aul fella has been bangn on something serious about insulating to the max.
Everyone is going flat out insulating houses these days but they are forgetting about ventilation. The brother-in-law is in the final throes of building a house for his auld pair and he has the insulated plasterboard and even with the thermostat on the lowest setting it's like a sauna. Nice in the winter but without ventilation it is going to be seriously uncomfortable and will lead to poor air quality in the house. Yes you can open the windows but what was the point of all the insulation?
Oh and after some serious tooing and froing Im giving the underfloor heating a miss, although the actual cost difference is alot less than wat it was, the reports I've been hearing from most people is that it's too hard on oil... It seems it doesn't suit a 9-5 household.
Have I made the right decision?!?!
Quote from: Hank Everlast on April 01, 2011, 11:48:10 PM
Oh and after some serious tooing and froing Im giving the underfloor heating a miss, although the actual cost difference is alot less than wat it was, the reports I've been hearing from most people is that it's too hard on oil... It seems it doesn't suit a 9-5 household.
Have I made the right decision?!?!
People that say that have generally heard it third hand from someone as it's a bit of an urban myth. I have it downstairs in our house and I don't find it sore on the oil at all. You have a well insulated house so your house will hold the heat after the oil burner has knocked itself off.
Rule of thumb, how much more costly is under floor heating vs radiators?
Has anyone looked at the wood pellet burners?
we ran out of pellets 2 years ago ( the main supplier to the island was a crowd in ferm that went wallop)
Quote from: Tony Baloney on April 01, 2011, 11:52:52 PM
Quote from: Hank Everlast on April 01, 2011, 11:48:10 PM
Oh and after some serious tooing and froing Im giving the underfloor heating a miss, although the actual cost difference is alot less than wat it was, the reports I've been hearing from most people is that it's too hard on oil... It seems it doesn't suit a 9-5 household.
Have I made the right decision?!?!
People that say that have generally heard it third hand from someone as it's a bit of an urban myth. I have it downstairs in our house and I don't find it sore on the oil at all. You have a well insulated house so your house will hold the heat after the oil burner has knocked itself off.
Your right, I'm going on second and third hand information, but even the plumbers I priced said it would most likely cost abit more to run, add to this a few horror stories I'd heard and has just pushed me to the safe option. Il probably regret it. I suppose I just like the thot of on evenings like these you can come home from work and stick on the heat for 20 mins and ur warm!!
There is no reason to regret going with rads as it's a proven system and is easy to control. A lot of people that get UFH in have it set up incorrectly and that's why it burns oil.
After working in hundreds of houses where people are building I can say I wouldn't install underfloor heating in my own house when I eventually get around to building one.
Thats not to say it doesn't work but in my experience it's about a 50/50 split of people who think its a great job to people who regret putting it in.
I have even seen the same installer put exactly the same system into two houses built 100yards apart and one couple love it and the other hate it.
I wouldn't take the chance myself so rads are the way I would go as you know exactly what you are getting.
I might however put in Devi mats in the bathrooms and en suites but I wouldn't put underfloor heating throughout the house.
I would heat the house with a oil burner(or maybe Gas),if the house is insulated correctly and if the plumbing is zoned right then you shouldn't be burning very much oil at all.
Insulation is the key here and I would insulate it to the max but as Tony said you also have to think of ventilation so getting the balance right is a must.If this done right, oil and how much you burn won't cost a fortune.
I would also go then with a solid fuel stove in the living room,I think they look class and they give brilliant heat.
I think solar panels to heat the water are a great job and I have never heard anyone complain about them and would install them without a doubt.
This is just what I would do from seeing the results of hundreds of other homes that I have wired and worked in over the years.
Quote from: ludermor on April 02, 2011, 03:20:05 AM
we ran out of pellets 2 years ago ( the main supplier to the island was a crowd in ferm that went wallop)
ive heard of guys importing pellets from europe they are supposed to be better quality (dont know much about that) try ebay/gummtree or buy a forty foot from europe if you have somewhere to tip them
Quote from: lawnseed on April 02, 2011, 04:04:31 PM
Quote from: ludermor on April 02, 2011, 03:20:05 AM
we ran out of pellets 2 years ago ( the main supplier to the island was a crowd in ferm that went wallop)
ive heard of guys importing pellets from europe they are supposed to be better quality (dont know much about that) try ebay/gummtree or buy a forty foot from europe if you have somewhere to tip them
Ludermor is that Balcas that went tits up? Where did people get them from after that happened?
not sure if this was mentioned earlier, but how much does building control (NI) typically cost?
For a hse under 250sq.m the plan fee is £75 and the inspection fee is £175 anything above this and the plan & inspection fee are calculated on the esimated cost of the build.
Need 0.07m3 of 40mm gravel. A small amount but how much in weight would I need to order.
not building, just renovating a house.
I was wondering if there are any grants/scappage schemes or anything for replacing an old boiler, loft/roof insulation or replacing old windows?
I had a quick look, there seems to be laods for people on benefits , but that doesnt apply to me.
In the north by the way
Quote from: blewuporstuffed on September 23, 2011, 11:38:21 AM
not building, just renovating a house.
I was wondering if there are any grants/scappage schemes or anything for replacing an old boiler, loft/roof insulation or replacing old windows?
I had a quick look, there seems to be laods for people on benefits , but that doesnt apply to me.
In the north by the way
Try this site:
http://www.moneysavingexpert.com/family/grant-grabbing
Quote from: blewuporstuffed on September 23, 2011, 11:38:21 AM
I was wondering if there are any grants/scappage schemes or anything for replacing an old boiler, loft/roof insulation or replacing old windows?
I had a quick look, there seems to be laods for people on benefits , but that doesnt apply to me.
In the north by the way
There used to be some schemes but I'm not sure they run them any more. NIHE site would be the place to find out. Looked into them myself 5 or 6 years ago and I think the main condition was that you were making an uninhabitable house habitable again. Was a long application form and you had to get the NIHE to inspect the house before you started work on it, then they would reimburse some of the costs later. As I remember there was money to cover roofs, rewiring and damp. Not sure about windows.
Need 0.07m3 of 40mm gravel. A small amount but how much in weight would I need to order.
Quote from: thejuice on September 23, 2011, 12:48:45 PM
Need 0.07m3 of 40mm gravel. A small amount but how much in weight would I need to order.
kg/m3
Gravel, loose, dry 1522
Gravel, with sand, natural 1922
Gravel, dry 1/4 to 2 inch 1682
Gravel, wet 1/4 to 2 inch 2002
Pulled these densities from http://www.simetric.co.uk/si_materials.htm
They'll give you weights of 106kg to 140kg
thanks
Anyone know a rough guesstimate for kerbing, is there a guide price per kerb?
Quote from: Doogie Browser on October 03, 2011, 12:00:16 PM
Anyone know a rough guesstimate for kerbing, is there a guide price per kerb?
About £5-6 for pre-stressed and £3 for those that aren't.
Quote from: Tony Baloney on October 03, 2011, 04:58:10 PM
Quote from: Doogie Browser on October 03, 2011, 12:00:16 PM
Anyone know a rough guesstimate for kerbing, is there a guide price per kerb?
About £5-6 for pre-stressed and £3 for those that aren't.
Cheers Tony. Did you put up a fence and pillars at your gaff too?
Quote from: Doogie Browser on October 03, 2011, 05:16:11 PM
Quote from: Tony Baloney on October 03, 2011, 04:58:10 PM
Quote from: Doogie Browser on October 03, 2011, 12:00:16 PM
Anyone know a rough guesstimate for kerbing, is there a guide price per kerb?
About £5-6 for pre-stressed and £3 for those that aren't.
Cheers Tony. Did you put up a fence and pillars at your gaff too?
He lives on Dale Farm.
Quote from: laoislad on October 03, 2011, 05:18:14 PM
Quote from: Doogie Browser on October 03, 2011, 05:16:11 PM
Quote from: Tony Baloney on October 03, 2011, 04:58:10 PM
Quote from: Doogie Browser on October 03, 2011, 12:00:16 PM
Anyone know a rough guesstimate for kerbing, is there a guide price per kerb?
About £5-6 for pre-stressed and £3 for those that aren't.
Cheers Tony. Did you put up a fence and pillars at your gaff too?
He lives on Dale Farm.
Free Ice cream all year :P
Quote from: Doogie Browser on October 03, 2011, 05:16:11 PM
Quote from: Tony Baloney on October 03, 2011, 04:58:10 PM
Quote from: Doogie Browser on October 03, 2011, 12:00:16 PM
Anyone know a rough guesstimate for kerbing, is there a guide price per kerb?
About £5-6 for pre-stressed and £3 for those that aren't.
Cheers Tony. Did you put up a fence and pillars at your gaff too?
For planning approval I had to put barbed wire fence and hawthorn hedge along the field to keep sheep out - roadside and other side of house has existing treeline. That's still there and undecided about D rail so haven't priced it. Just 2 pillars faced in granite (which I got free). Concrete for my kerbs cost a lot as needed a lot of backing.
Where is a good place to buy kerbs? Hughes Pre-cast any use?
Brother in law bought his in Ty Rock but Smith concrete in newry and will deliver i would go for the pre stressed ones life time job
SMP in the Brantry. Real great stuff. Headers and sils, kerbs.
http://www.smpconcrete.co.uk/ (http://www.smpconcrete.co.uk/)
Got mine in Acheson & Glover. Brother in law is a contractor and he says there is a lot of shite on the market at the minute too as they're reducing the amount of concrete in them to lower costs.
Cheers lads. Need a few early in the spring for getting the new lawn put down. Bloody dear little feckers too aren't they on top of everything else
Quote from: sammymaguire on October 03, 2011, 08:27:49 PM
Cheers lads. Need a few early in the spring for getting the new lawn put down. Bloody dear little feckers too aren't they on top of everything else
Hughes is beside the house here and would have given the turn but was getting the paviers from A&G so got the lot a bit cheaper. Think their stuff is good enough and the brother in law deals with them.
Looking a bit of advice folks. I'm starting to build a house next week and am currently looking at insulation options.
Should i go for 60mm cavity wall insulation or get the cavity pumped. I have heard mixed views on pumping regarding areas not getting filled and also damp problems due to there being no cavity.
I need around 270m2 of insulation, anyone an idea of how much that should cost in euro, house is in Donegal.
Any help would be appreciated.
What's the going rate for site insurance lads? My mate got a quote for 400 quid for 18 months. Is that about right or are there better deals out there?
what would you expect to pay for 2nd fix plumbing, installing and connecting the toilets, sinks, showers etc?
Who are the best people to get a mortgage with in the north lads?
Quote from: JimStynes on January 11, 2012, 06:48:35 PM
Who are the best people to get a mortgage with in the north lads?
MGM Grand in Vegas will do you a good deal i'm sure Jim!
Quote from: JimStynes on January 11, 2012, 06:48:35 PM
Who are the best people to get a mortgage with in the north lads?
I found Santander OK Jim
Quote from: Fear Bun Na Sceilpe on January 11, 2012, 06:52:21 PM
Quote from: JimStynes on January 11, 2012, 06:48:35 PM
Who are the best people to get a mortgage with in the north lads?
I found Santander OK Jim
Do they do self build mortgages though?
Quote from: Archie Mitchell on January 11, 2012, 06:51:08 PM
Quote from: JimStynes on January 11, 2012, 06:48:35 PM
Who are the best people to get a mortgage with in the north lads?
MGM Grand in Vegas will do you a good deal i'm sure Jim!
Im going to get the mortgage and put it all on red, easy money.
Quote from: JimStynes on January 11, 2012, 06:48:35 PM
Who are the best people to get a mortgage with in the north lads?
The Halifax
Not actually building a house but looking to do a bit of work to the outside of my house. House was finished bout 3 years ago but never made any effort to finish the outside. So it's got a bit out off hand with grass, rushes etc. Not looking to do anything too fancy just to get it kirbed and the garden levelled and lawn sown out. Then a load of stones for the street.
Just looking to know roughly what sort of cost this would be to get someone in to do everything. Garden is mostly levelled already apart from one area that might need a load of topsoil to level it out. It's a small enough site and not looking anything to fancy. Just to get it respectable.
Would love to have the kind of money your man from this website has http://www.stevecarter.com/build/build.htm
Any good websites to look at for advice on building lads? Where is the best place to get a look at some kitchens/bathrooms etc to get an idea of prices and designs?
Quote from: supersarsfields on January 16, 2012, 09:08:33 AM
Not actually building a house but looking to do a bit of work to the outside of my house. House was finished bout 3 years ago but never made any effort to finish the outside. So it's got a bit out off hand with grass, rushes etc. Not looking to do anything too fancy just to get it kirbed and the garden levelled and lawn sown out. Then a load of stones for the street.
Just looking to know roughly what sort of cost this would be to get someone in to do everything. Garden is mostly levelled already apart from one area that might need a load of topsoil to level it out. It's a small enough site and not looking anything to fancy. Just to get it respectable.
Tony Baloney is your man.
anybody ever use this company run by a fella called Eric Davidson? http://www.reinco.co.uk/
Not sure if this link was put up before but it has some useful info
http://www.channel4.com/4homes/build-renovate/self-build-advice
Not sure if this has eben discussed previously (couldnt be bothered goin back through pages), but really could do with some educated and experienced opinions on home heating/plumbing systems.
Ready to start building home now in next month or so and still undecided about what heating system to install.
House is about 3000 sq ft, timber framed and will have plenty insulation. If possible id like to avoid oil, just the way its going with prices etc in next few years it will be ridiculously expensive.
Ye hear all sorts of nightmare stories and opinions about under floor, wood pellet, solar etc. any advice or opinions welcome, especially from those who actually have such systems in place.
Myles did quite an extensive treatise on this on page 2/3 of this tread if you want to check it out. Below is his summary.
Quote from: mylestheslasher on February 27, 2011, 08:48:41 PM
I built my house a few years ago. Learnt a lot of things the hard way so I will try and save you the making the same mistakes.
-Before you consider a heat system you must consider 1st how to keep the heat in your house. iInsulation is critical. I strongly suggest you put foam back slab on the inside of your outer walls. 100mm thick stuff would be a good job. This is vital. Never mind pumping walls, that is mostly for old houses and is not as efficient insulatation as on the slab.
- Windows. Do not skimp on windows. Get double or triple glazed, 25mm thick or more. Windows are a hoor for letting in the cold. Get a good company to fit them. Thie cheapest in the south are probably Munster Joinery and they are absolutely useless.
- Sunrooms. Everyone likes the sunroom but beware if you are considering leaving them open plan. They get very hot in summer and cold in winter. If you go for underfloor it can really struggle with rapid temp changes in temperature of rooms.
- Open fires. They are nice and add a nice "feature" to a room. Unfortunately, they also cause drafts and let heat escape. A good alternative is to put a small stove into your fireplace. This will seal your chimney and if you do want to light the stove it will heat the room better than an open fire.
- 2 Story. If you are building a two storey I strongly suggest you go for a hollow core floor and not ply on joists. Putting floors on joists, no matter what dampening you try, will not conceal noise from upstairs.
So now to the heat system. I think anyone with an eye on being efficient has to go for underfloor. It is simply much more efficient than every other system and anyone who tells you otherwise either installed it incorrectly or likes a house that is baking hot. It does have some downsides. You cannot quickly change room temps by say +5 Deg in an hour. Underfloor is a slow steady constant heat. That is why you must be careful about sunrooms and drafts.
Underfloor could be powered by standard oil burner, wood chip or geothermal. Oil is least efficient. Wood chips were all the rage but you need an outside shed for taking bulk delivery and it will need to be really dry (ie have a heating system) as damp wood pellets spells big probs. Geothermal is my choice, ground loop is the best. A Geothermal system, underfloor pipes and cylinders/plumbing will prob cost you in the region of 15-20k (for a 2000sq/ft house approx). Get someone decent to do it. You do not want a cowboy doing this as once it is done it is done!
One other thing I would suggest is to take your time designing the layout of your home. Make a model with cornflakes boxes or whatever. To it right up front cos it is very hard to change. Nearly everyone who builds a house (myself included) was rushing to get out of rented accomodation and regrets certain aspects of design. Try and meet the county planner as that will get you brownie points when he looks at your application.
If you are considering Geothermal then you are effectively using some electricity to heat your house. One way to offset this is to have someone build a wind turbine behind your house (if you have space). This can be wired into a 2nd meter which allows you to sell any energy created back to the ESB as opposed to the older systems which tried to store the electricity in batteries and which couldn't power a kettle. A turbine could be installed for about 15k.
One final thing - what size is your house and what style (cottage, dormer, 2 storey). Your budget may need to be revised, I'm thinking a €150k would be minimum you would spend. Good luck with it!
QuoteNot sure if this has eben discussed previously (couldnt be bothered goin back through pages), but really could do with some educated and experienced opinions on home heating/plumbing systems.
Ready to start building home now in next month or so and still undecided about what heating system to install.
House is about 3000 sq ft, timber framed and will have plenty insulation. If possible id like to avoid oil, just the way its going with prices etc in next few years it will be ridiculously expensive.
Ye hear all sorts of nightmare stories and opinions about under floor, wood pellet, solar etc. any advice or opinions welcome, especially from those who actually have such systems in place.
We went for underfloor heating throughout the ground floor, as well as upstairs bathroom and ensuite. The rest of upstairs has radiators. I think the kind of heat required upstairs is different than downstairs, but that comes down to personal choice.
I can't comment on the underfloor as the house isnt yet completed, however, from the advice I was given, if you have it professionally designed and installed, with stats in the correct places, and do not scrimp on insulation below the underfloor, then it will be an efficient system. Will let you know in the next month or two.
I put the underfloor heating into any room which was going to be either tiled or have wood flooring fitted, i.e. bathrooms, kitchen, hall etc and i like the even heat better than radiators which I still have upstairs in the bedrooms and landing area
I have 75mm of insulation below the underfloor and only 50mm of a non concrete based screed so you don't have to wait as long as you would with 100mm of concrete based screed.
I also have a solid fuel stove linked into the normal oil fired heating system as well as solar panels heating the hot water.
The solar panel is a good job as i rarely burn any oil from about May till late september.
I also put 75mm foil backed cavity insulation in all the walls and that helps no end.
Insulate as much as your budget will allow you as its money saved in the long run.
Can't see the end of the feckin line on this new board!!
If you do go for underfloor heating, think about using a lightweight screed at first floor level on top of timber joists, will create the mass required for u/f heating to work efficiently. Also has the added benefit of sound dampening.
In terms of the foil faced Cavity insulation, there are 2 principal types , Phenolic (kingspan Kooltherm ) and Pir board , with regard to The thermal quality there is a slighter higher u value using the Kooltherm but because Kingspan have a monopoly on this product it is a hell of a lot dearer than Pir board
Any good examples or ideas for a 2500 bungalow. Im in middle of planning and in need of some inspiration for designs. We want something that isn't too modern and not ur usual 4 bedroom bungalow that you see everywhere around the country.
Possibly thinking about moving house.
2 storey house has become available that i like the look of but it has to be finished.
Its 2600 sq feet, on half an acre , windows(double glazed) and doors have been fitted.
Roof is on the property and the attic has been floored.
But the inside needs to be plastered, radiators put in, plumbing, electrics, kitchen and bathroom fitted, etc
It's a shell of a house but has potential.
I know nothing about house building but what sort of money(ball park) would you be talking to finish the property??
Just a quick question, and unfortunately I think I know the answer. Built a house and it was signed of completed by building control. I was looking to claim the tax back on a few bits and bobs but have passed the 3 months deadline (By quite a bit in fairness). So was just wondering if there is any chance of getting it back? Or is there any way around it at all? Completely my own mistake to be fair.
Quote from: trueblue1234 on March 07, 2012, 01:12:01 PM
Just a quick question, and unfortunately I think I know the answer. Built a house and it was signed of completed by building control. I was looking to claim the tax back on a few bits and bobs but have passed the 3 months deadline (By quite a bit in fairness). So was just wondering if there is any chance of getting it back? Or is there any way around it at all? Completely my own mistake to be fair.
You're in the south I presume?
Quote from: johnneycool on March 07, 2012, 01:36:19 PM
Quote from: trueblue1234 on March 07, 2012, 01:12:01 PM
Just a quick question, and unfortunately I think I know the answer. Built a house and it was signed of completed by building control. I was looking to claim the tax back on a few bits and bobs but have passed the 3 months deadline (By quite a bit in fairness). So was just wondering if there is any chance of getting it back? Or is there any way around it at all? Completely my own mistake to be fair.
You're in the south I presume?
Must be as we had our final conpletion done a long time before we claimed the VAT back from HMRC.
In the North Johnny.
But from speaking to a couple of people and spoke to Building control they are saying it has to be done within 3 months of cert of completion?
If you have any info to the contrary I would be very interested to hear. Could be the difference of the guts of £1500.
I wasn't aware of any time constraint on it but then again I haven't got a completion certificate yet.
Building control did give me some sort of temporary certificate or the likes for me to claim my VAT back. That was 3 to 4 years ago.
Aye I wasn't aware of the time constraints either. And it's only now that I have started to try and claim it back that people have told me about it.
Tony how long after your final completion did you claim the VAT back?
Each to their own, but we have underfloor and love it.
Quote from: trueblue1234 on March 07, 2012, 05:16:00 PM
Aye I wasn't aware of the time constraints either. And it's only now that I have started to try and claim it back that people have told me about it.
Tony how long after your final completion did you claim the VAT back?
I checked with the missus who is the boss of such affairs. She says we did it within 3 months but there was some discrepancy and they sent it back to us. Best you can do is ring and enquire.
A question regarding wall mounted TV's. If you wish to keep the Sky box, DVD etc. completely seperate from the TV, say in another room for example, what cables are recommended to run to the TV. Someone who reckon they know about such things advised that, to future proof, I run 2 coax and 3 cat5e or cat6 to any TV point, working on the basis that you can send hdmi signals across cat5e/6 also.
Any advice would be appreciated.
saw this today. zero emissions green. show house blah blah about 3miles outside middletown on the armagh road might be worth a look
Quote from: lawnseed on March 29, 2012, 10:03:20 PM
saw this today. zero emissions green. show house blah blah about 3miles outside middletown on the armagh road might be worth a look
Sounds near me! Whereabouts exactly Lawnseed?
Quote from: Tony Baloney on March 29, 2012, 10:09:46 PM
Quote from: lawnseed on March 29, 2012, 10:03:20 PM
saw this today. zero emissions green. show house blah blah about 3miles outside middletown on the armagh road might be worth a look
Sounds near me! Whereabouts exactly Lawnseed?
just opposite the big layby on the middletown side of mcconnells shop near the cottages
Quote from: lawnseed on March 29, 2012, 10:21:05 PM
Quote from: Tony Baloney on March 29, 2012, 10:09:46 PM
Quote from: lawnseed on March 29, 2012, 10:03:20 PM
saw this today. zero emissions green. show house blah blah about 3miles outside middletown on the armagh road might be worth a look
Sounds near me! Whereabouts exactly Lawnseed?
just opposite the big layby on the middletown side of mcconnells shop near the cottages
Aye thought it was that one. They built it behind trees so was hard to get a decent nosey at it.
Quote from: Tony Baloney on March 29, 2012, 10:26:03 PM
Quote from: lawnseed on March 29, 2012, 10:21:05 PM
Quote from: Tony Baloney on March 29, 2012, 10:09:46 PM
Quote from: lawnseed on March 29, 2012, 10:03:20 PM
saw this today. zero emissions green. show house blah blah about 3miles outside middletown on the armagh road might be worth a look
Sounds near me! Whereabouts exactly Lawnseed?
just opposite the big layby on the middletown side of mcconnells shop near the cottages
Aye thought it was that one. They built it behind trees so was hard to get a decent nosey at it.
theyve a big sign up inviting you to look no need to nosey
Quote from: balladmaker on March 28, 2012, 11:16:23 AM
A question regarding wall mounted TV's. If you wish to keep the Sky box, DVD etc. completely seperate from the TV, say in another room for example, what cables are recommended to run to the TV. Someone who reckon they know about such things advised that, to future proof, I run 2 coax and 3 cat5e or cat6 to any TV point, working on the basis that you can send hdmi signals across cat5e/6 also.
Any advice would be appreciated.
The advice you got was totally correct. Run 2 coax and Cat 5e/6 to each point. This will futureproof you for most eventualities inc. 3D.
You can use these to extend the range of your Sky+ box http://www.amazon.co.uk/TeckNet-Extender-Cat5e-network-cable/dp/B005SFO6RA/ref=pd_sim_sbs_ce_4 (http://www.amazon.co.uk/TeckNet-Extender-Cat5e-network-cable/dp/B005SFO6RA/ref=pd_sim_sbs_ce_4)
I wish i'd thought of it before, ended up having to track the walls again. Nasty job.
No rates payable on these passive houses for 5 years.
Quote from: Agent Orange on March 30, 2012, 07:13:02 PM
No rates payable on these passive houses for 5 years.
what about the value after the five years dont you think they stick the boot in when it came to rateable
Quote from: lawnseed on March 30, 2012, 07:16:38 PM
Quote from: Agent Orange on March 30, 2012, 07:13:02 PM
No rates payable on these passive houses for 5 years.
what about the value after the five years dont you think they stick the boot in when it came to rateable
They always stick the boot in, still its something.
Where exactly is this house, I wouldn't mind a look. Wonder how much extra it costs.
Quote from: Agent Orange on March 30, 2012, 07:39:18 PM
Quote from: lawnseed on March 30, 2012, 07:16:38 PM
Quote from: Agent Orange on March 30, 2012, 07:13:02 PM
No rates payable on these passive houses for 5 years.
what about the value after the five years dont you think they stick the boot in when it came to rateable
They always stick the boot in, still its something.
Where exactly is this house, I wouldn't mind a look. Wonder how much extra it costs.
Monaghan Road between Armagh and Middletown. Head past Linwoods for about a mile and it is on the right hand side just past Rosie's shop/petrol pumps on the straight.
Quote from: balladmaker on March 28, 2012, 11:16:23 AM
A question regarding wall mounted TV's. If you wish to keep the Sky box, DVD etc. completely seperate from the TV, say in another room for example, what cables are recommended to run to the TV. Someone who reckon they know about such things advised that, to future proof, I run 2 coax and 3 cat5e or cat6 to any TV point, working on the basis that you can send hdmi signals across cat5e/6 also.
Any advice would be appreciated.
For future proofing, forget about Cat5e, you want to have Cat6. Cat7 is too expensive for the pay-off. You'll definitely get a HDMI signal down Cat6 but not assured down Cat5e. If you are getting your house wired at the moment just run as much as you can as they'll always come in handy in the future if not even for your telly (e.g. alarms, cctv, telephone, home automation). Into our sitting room, I have four runs of Cat6 (telly plugs into one for internet widgets, two and three run back to home server for HD video over IP on server, four is used for remote control of server and satellite box in the garage). Also have a four Coax runs to sitting room (one for FM aerial for RTE, one for Freeview/RTE aerial and the other two I'm keeping for a new Freesat & Saorsat dish I'm building. In all the other rooms I have two Cat6 runs and two Coax, some rooms take telephone and others music players, internet radio, tellys, alarms and a wireless access point for mobile devices. All hardware is located in the garage, no wires anywhere in the house and if you choose your equipment well you can control the whole lot from one universal remote control. Also don't forget to track in your surround sound speakers.
Quote from: Tony Baloney on March 31, 2012, 12:06:16 AM
Quote from: Agent Orange on March 30, 2012, 07:39:18 PM
Quote from: lawnseed on March 30, 2012, 07:16:38 PM
Quote from: Agent Orange on March 30, 2012, 07:13:02 PM
No rates payable on these passive houses for 5 years.
what about the value after the five years dont you think they stick the boot in when it came to rateable
They always stick the boot in, still its something.
Where exactly is this house, I wouldn't mind a look. Wonder how much extra it costs.
Monaghan Road between Armagh and Middletown. Head past Linwoods for about a mile and it is on the right hand side just past Rosie's shop/petrol pumps on the straight.
This fella did get 5 years of his rates - but unfortunately, thanks to Sammy Wilson, the Low Carbon Homes Scheme closed on the 31st March 2012 to everyone else. His rateable value was just over £2,000 per year at 2012 figures.
It is Zero Carbon, not Passive.
The house, according to his figures, was 15% more expensive to build than conventional, but 70% lower running costs.
He has solar hot water and electric, plus a wood pellet boiler and a heat recovery system. He has no underfloor heating and only 1 radiator. Majority of heat is provided via the ducting used for the heat recovery system.
The most important target on this build was air tightness, and he got a result of less than 1. And 10 is the current minimum building control standard. To look at the house it look no different from the neighbouring houses.
I've a few questions about the groundworks required to clear a site,
How do you work out what to budget for creating a lane? - Its just a field at the minute, A local diggerman charges £25 an hour.
How many hours would it take him to clear the topsoil and level out hardcore and smaller stones to create access to the site? - How much is stone / m3? or is there a generic price you could use for each metre of laneway?
I'm just at budgeting stage at the minute - was hoping to get the lane created and site cleared before having to use mortgage money.
Any help or advice would be appreciated, Cheers.
Quote from: offtheground on May 08, 2012, 03:39:50 PM
I've a few questions about the groundworks required to clear a site,
How do you work out what to budget for creating a lane? - Its just a field at the minute, A local diggerman charges £25 an hour.
How many hours would it take him to clear the topsoil and level out hardcore and smaller stones to create access to the site? - How much is stone / m3? or is there a generic price you could use for each metre of laneway?
I'm just at budgeting stage at the minute - was hoping to get the lane created and site cleared before having to use mortgage money.
Any help or advice would be appreciated, Cheers.
what you do is you stay with the digger for the first day. he'll dig like fuk because your there. then when hes finished for the day you note his time and you step out what he dug then you step out an equal amount of digging and hammer in a peg. inform him that your going to work tomorrow but you expect him to be at that peg when you get home.. a lesson learned from one of the wealthyest men in ireland. thats why hes rich..
Quote from: lawnseed on May 09, 2012, 10:38:57 PM
Quote from: offtheground on May 08, 2012, 03:39:50 PM
I've a few questions about the groundworks required to clear a site,
How do you work out what to budget for creating a lane? - Its just a field at the minute, A local diggerman charges £25 an hour.
How many hours would it take him to clear the topsoil and level out hardcore and smaller stones to create access to the site? - How much is stone / m3? or is there a generic price you could use for each metre of laneway?
I'm just at budgeting stage at the minute - was hoping to get the lane created and site cleared before having to use mortgage money.
Any help or advice would be appreciated, Cheers.
what you do is you stay with the digger for the first day. he'll dig like fuk because your there. then when hes finished for the day you note his time and you step out what he dug then you step out an equal amount of digging and hammer in a peg. inform him that your going to work tomorrow but you expect him to be at that peg when you get home.. a lesson learned from one of the wealthyest men in ireland. thats why hes rich..
[/b]
Brilliant !! :)
Offtheground to strip a field and make it into a lane shouldnt take more than a few days depending if all goes according to plan . Alot would depend on the stones being delivered when you need them but with companies not that busy it shoulnt be much probelm . Ring around a few quarries and get some prices for the stones . I have worked at a fair few houses and i know where the peg that lawnseed talks about would be put . Most men that have their own machines on the road will be there to work not to mess about
Good stuff, thanks chaps. Thats a smart idea about the peg. I intend being there with the diggerman, so I'll keep him at it. Will be a balls if i'm paying him to wait on lorry loads of stones.
How many m3 is there in a standard lorry load of stones?, i want to try and work out coverage. How much might i expect to pay for a load of stones??
Quote from: offtheground on May 10, 2012, 08:30:10 AM
Good stuff, thanks chaps. Thats a smart idea about the peg. I intend being there with the diggerman, so I'll keep him at it. Will be a balls if i'm paying him to wait on lorry loads of stones.
How many m3 is there in a standard lorry load of stones?, i want to try and work out coverage. How much might i expect to pay for a load of stones??
Its not a smart idea about the peg, if you suggested that to any half decent diggerman you would either be chewing on the peg or removing it from your hole.
Average lorry load of stone is approx 20t, 16t if its a 6 wheel lorry. 2.2t/m3. If your in the north and relatively close to a quarry you will be paying between £5/6 per t plus agg levy delivered. The agg levy is £2/t but there are ways around it.
Don't mess with a diggerman. I know one who was only paid half the money for leveling out a site. He found out when the site would be empty, went round and dug half of it back up. Lesson learned for everyone.
Quote from: oakleafgael on May 10, 2012, 09:31:05 AM
Quote from: offtheground on May 10, 2012, 08:30:10 AM
Good stuff, thanks chaps. Thats a smart idea about the peg. I intend being there with the diggerman, so I'll keep him at it. Will be a balls if i'm paying him to wait on lorry loads of stones.
How many m3 is there in a standard lorry load of stones?, i want to try and work out coverage. How much might i expect to pay for a load of stones??
Its not a smart idea about the peg, if you suggested that to any half decent diggerman you would either be chewing on the peg or removing it from your hole.
Average lorry load of stone is approx 20t, 16t if its a 6 wheel lorry. 2.2t/m3. If your in the north and relatively close to a quarry you will be paying between £5/6 per t plus agg levy delivered. The agg levy is £2/t but there are ways around it.
What are the ways around the agg levy??
Cash is usually King ;)
Plastering ... Anyone got a ball park figure what you paid the plasterer for dashing outside and plastering inside ... Obviously it depends on the size of the house, but a rough figure for a standard self build of 3500 - 4000 sq ft?
on the stones.. you would be better paying an extra 50p per ton for a continious supply of stones while the digger is on hire than trying to save and having the digger sitting around. you must tell your supplier that your paying a digger. its your money the digger man is not your friend and niether is the quarry. they both know that they are likely to get paid since they are in at the start of the work
Am hoping to start building this year, and had a few questions about a lot of the technology out there for heating.
My intention is to have 2no stoves, 1 double sided in the kitchn/living area (open plan) and one in the living room with a back boiler. I seen someone who had ran heating vents from above the stove (that could be opened and shut) to other rooms in the house i.e. bedrooms) which I thought was a good idea.
Solar Panels : Hot Water/PV? Which would be best to get value for money? the roof will be south facing so both should work, its just which will give us best value for the upfront cost
Heat Recovery System : I lke the look of them but who does them that knows what they are talking about? Are they as effective as they make out?
Air Source Heat Pump : Does anyone have experience of these? I was told they were a great job with underfloor heating rather than the stupid looking radiators they supply with them
Any working knowledge of experience of these would be great. The salesmen would have you believe they are all neccessities, but you can't/shouldn't need everything
Build a house at the minute myself and the key is insulation insulation insulation. Forget about heat recovery, solar panels etc, the figures don't stack up. If you have a well insulated house and good heating controls you won't go wrong.
How much would it cost to submit plans for a field in the north and how much is the whole process likely to cost?
Quote from: joebloggs on May 31, 2012, 10:38:11 PM
How much would it cost to submit plans for a field in the north and how much is the whole process likely to cost?
An outline application is £412
A full application is £823
Quote from: el_cuervo_fc on May 31, 2012, 10:56:34 PM
Quote from: joebloggs on May 31, 2012, 10:38:11 PM
How much would it cost to submit plans for a field in the north and how much is the whole process likely to cost?
An outline application is £412
A full application is £823
£75 for building control application if your house is under 250 sq meters
Anyone care to share what you paid in total for plumbing (materials and labour) and for what size of a house i.e. how many bathrooms, ensuites, radiators, underfloor etc, just trying to get a ball park figure, many thanks.
Does anyone have any experience of Heat Recovery Systems in a new build and/or Positive Input Ventilation in an older house?
Can anyone provide any advice or recommendations on driveway surfaces? Looking at either Tarmac, or possibly Asphalt. It's a big enough area to cover, would ideally like some sort of brick paving but the cost would probably be prohibitive.
Has anyone went for asphalt over Tarmac, if so, what was the ball park cost difference? Thanks in advance.
Has anyone any experience in timber cladding - how hard is it to maintain?
Cheers.
How much would you be looking at for the automation system on a set of 12ft gates?
Full system, over and underground if there is a difference in price, including an intercom and camera?
Didn't want to start a new thread so thought this might be best place for it.
Anyone know anyone that spray paints kitchens in or around the Dublin area?
I definitely want one of these (maybe two!):
(http://www.thetinylife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/selecting-wine.jpg)
(http://www.thetinylife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/undergroundwinecellardesign-vi.jpg)
Anyone ever had any dealings with BetterHomes for their windows?
Anyone recommend any good places to buy a decent laminate flooring at cheap price. Around the £10 figure per square metre.
I am not after anything expensive as I am putting it into the living room of a rented house.
Living room is 20m squared & I have someone to fit it so I am just after the flooring.
Even if I could get second hand/reclaimed flooring it would do fine.
All advice welcome. Thanks
B&Q seem to have laminate flooring for as little as £5 per sq. m. and up to £12.
http://search.diy.com/search#w=laminated%20flooring&asug= (http://search.diy.com/search#w=laminated%20flooring&asug=)
Plus they have a 4 for 3 offer at present. I don't know if their sterling pricing applies up North or you get to pay Irish prices because of the stretch of water between Britain and here.
Quote from: gander on October 23, 2013, 09:52:09 PM
Anyone ever had any dealings with BetterHomes for their windows?
They did my house and my parents. Wouldn't say they're the cheapest but definitely did a brilliant job - no complaints whatsoever
Quote from: take_yer_points on October 30, 2013, 09:32:05 AM
Quote from: gander on October 23, 2013, 09:52:09 PM
Anyone ever had any dealings with BetterHomes for their windows?
They did my house and my parents. Wouldn't say they're the cheapest but definitely did a brilliant job - no complaints whatsoever
How much would a full replacement of all windows and doors cost? Say 15 double windows and two PVC doors.
Quote from: Under Lights on October 30, 2013, 09:35:59 AM
Quote from: take_yer_points on October 30, 2013, 09:32:05 AM
Quote from: gander on October 23, 2013, 09:52:09 PM
Anyone ever had any dealings with BetterHomes for their windows?
They did my house and my parents. Wouldn't say they're the cheapest but definitely did a brilliant job - no complaints whatsoever
How much would a full replacement of all windows and doors cost? Say 15 double windows and two PVC doors.
I got 16 windows and 2 doors - part of their deal was that you got a free door with 10 or more windows or something like that. Some of the windows were very small. I think it came in at around the £4k - £4.5k mark but couldn't be 100% certain on that
What are typical architects fees for design & submission of plans for planning approval in the north?
How is it worked out? is it per sq ft, a % of build costs or what?
QuoteWhat are typical architects fees for design & submission of plans for planning approval in the north?
How is it worked out? is it per sq ft, a % of build costs or what?
I was charged £1 a square foot around 5 years ago, but I think other architects were charging more at the same time. It was weird, ask them to move a wall out on a plan, increase the square footage of a room, and all of a sudden that line moving gives them another couple of hundred onto their fee ... handy money.
Nothing handy about Ballad.
Blewuporstuffed
It can range from 50p up till £3 per sq. ft.
What area of the north are you located
Quote from: Hereiam on April 30, 2014, 12:53:17 PM
Nothing handy about Ballad.
Blewuporstuffed
It can range from 50p up till £3 per sq. ft.
What area of the north are you located
tyrone
Ayone in the know with regards to planning. We have foundations in on a site but are holding of building on it for the time being. Just wondering if there is a time frame for us to have to have the building completed or is it indefinite? I had 10 years in my head but not sure where I got it from. In NI.
You are ok as long as you have had building control out to pass them.
Yeah all signed of. Thanks!!
Do you not have to have the house up to sub-floor level or is pouring the concrete for the footings enough?
Pouring the concrete is enough
What's the verdict on heat pumps and heat recovery systems, worth the investment?
Quote from: giveherlong on June 09, 2014, 04:43:05 PM
What's the verdict on heat pumps and heat recovery systems, worth the investment?
I dunno but selfbuild ireland magazine is where I would start
Www.selfbuild.ie
Its alot of money to shell out for little gain in my opinion.
Quote from: Hereiam on June 09, 2014, 06:59:09 PM
Its alot of money to shell out for little gain in my opinion.
Would it not pay for itself? Oil isn't getting any cheaper.
Quote from: All of a Sludden on June 09, 2014, 07:02:05 PM
Quote from: Hereiam on June 09, 2014, 06:59:09 PM
Its alot of money to shell out for little gain in my opinion.
Would it not pay for itself? Oil isn't getting any cheaper.
http://www.nasdaq.com/markets/crude-oil-brent.aspx?timeframe=10y
And the Brits just imported the first load of Canadian tar sands because the good stuff is running low
Your better off spending it on insulation.
Yes, invest in the insulation but why then put big holes in the wall for extractor fans etc. I put the heat recovery in, and while it is working away quietly you may think it is doing little, but the house is pretty much airtight, fresh and warm. I would recommend it.
How long is planning permission valid for once it is granted?(in the north)
When is this date taken from, the date of application of the date of DOE decison?
Quote from: blewuporstuffed on September 29, 2014, 10:03:28 AM
How long is planning permission valid for once it is granted?(in the north)
When is this date taken from, the date of application of the date of DOE decison?
The first condition on the decision notice usually relates to the time. The date is taken from when the decision notice was signed. There should be a date on the back page.
Looking at getting a driveway laid, either tarmac or asphalt, though would ideally like asphalt. Had a fella out pricing it, and he was pushing SMA (Stone Mastic Asphalt). Does anyone have any experience of it?
Have an area of approx. 400 sq metres to cover and getting some wild variations in prices.
Quote from: el_cuervo_fc on September 29, 2014, 10:28:28 AM
Quote from: blewuporstuffed on September 29, 2014, 10:03:28 AM
How long is planning permission valid for once it is granted?(in the north)
When is this date taken from, the date of application of the date of DOE decison?
The first condition on the decision notice usually relates to the time. The date is taken from when the decision notice was signed. There should be a date on the back page.
i dont have the decision notice, this is a site i was lookinga t and i was just wondering when the planning lapses on it.when i go onto the planning portal online it gives the application date & the date of DOE approval
Quotei dont have the decision notice, this is a site i was lookinga t and i was just wondering when the planning lapses on it.when i go onto the planning portal online it gives the application date & the date of DOE approval
I'd give them a call, it's an important question you're asking and requires an accurate answer. Planning will be able to tell you in 2 secs.
A handy site for looking at recent planning apps (NI) is http://www.geopii.com/planning/
It's good for checking local applications via a map rather than on the ni planning portal site which is kinda crap
*Also useful for nosey neighbours and house buyers to see what applications have been submitted nearby
Quote from: WeeDonns on September 29, 2014, 12:04:31 PM
A handy site for looking at recent planning apps (NI) is http://www.geopii.com/planning/
It's good for checking local applications via a map rather than on the ni planning portal site which is kinda crap
*Also useful for nosey neighbours and house buyers to see what applications have been submitted nearby
yeah , thats the site i used in teh first place. Usefull for seeing what sites are passed in the local area
What work needs to be carried out on a site in order for the planning to still be considered valid?
does concrete need to be poured or is it enough for the entrance to be made and the topsoil to be cleared?
You need the foundations in and building control out so that there is a record of when it started.
Whats the cost per square feet to build a house in the Mayo area these days? We will be moving back in a few years so its time to start planning, we hope to live in the Westport area.
4 bags of good black turf/sq.ft :P :P :P :P :P
Quote from: FL/MAYO on September 29, 2014, 01:07:51 PM
Whats the cost per square feet to build a house in the Mayo area these days? We will be moving back in a few years so its time to start planning, we hope to live in the Westport area.
Does it have to be newly built house? Look up Daft,ie to see what's out there e.g.
http://www.daft.ie/sales/killawalla-westport-mayo/995314/
Quote from: Denn Forever on September 29, 2014, 02:25:20 PM
Quote from: FL/MAYO on September 29, 2014, 01:07:51 PM
Whats the cost per square feet to build a house in the Mayo area these days? We will be moving back in a few years so its time to start planning, we hope to live in the Westport area.
Does it have to be newly built house? Look up Daft,ie to see what's out there e.g.
http://www.daft.ie/sales/killawalla-westport-mayo/995314/
Killawalla is a bit far out for us. We would like to be within 3 miles of the town. I have kept an eye on Daft for the last couple of years and have only seen a couple of houses that would meet our needs i.e location, style of house and cost. Keeping all options open.
Have you a site FL?? Some crazy money being asked for small plots there on daft, 50-100k for less than an acre
Quote from: macdanger2 on September 29, 2014, 11:30:57 PM
Have you a site FL?? Some crazy money being asked for small plots there on daft, 50-100k for less than an acre
Nothing yet Mac, I know it's expensive but from talking to friends and family it's the spot to move to if returning to Mayo.
Are you from around westport? If not, getting planning for a house could be tricky, there are details of who is eligible in the co development plan. Pretty detailed guidelines on what is and isn't allowed on a house as well although you don't need to look too far too see examples of the guidelines being completely ignored
Quote from: macdanger2 on September 30, 2014, 10:02:42 AM
Are you from around westport? If not, getting planning for a house could be tricky, there are details of who is eligible in the co development plan. Pretty detailed guidelines on what is and isn't allowed on a house as well although you don't need to look too far too see examples of the guidelines being completely ignored
I have heard of the residency clauses in some parts of the area (at least 5 years) but not familiar with any other building restrictions. I'll have to check out the Co. Development plan.
Don't mind those residency clauses fl sure tis Ireland we are talking about and there are always loophole s
Anyone willing to post up a step by step guide on what is involved in securing planning permission for a site in the North? Have the land just the need the site passed shortly.
Cheers
Depends on your site. Is your site:
1. a replacement dwelling
2. an infill site i.e. between two existing houses
3. a site on a farm which you are actively farming for the last 6+ years and no site has been passed on the farm in the last 10 years. Actively farming means SFP has been claimed on the ground for at least 6 years.
Quote from: 93-DY-SAM on October 01, 2014, 12:55:28 AM
u are actively farming for the last 6+ years and no site has been passed on the farm in the last 10 years. Actively farming means SFP has been claimed on the ground for at least 6 years.
Are you sure about this? my understanding is - farm established at least 6 years, and are currently actively farming. I'm not sure that they check that you have been actively farming for each of the past 6 years. They'll ask DARD how long the farm business ID has been established, and if there is currently Single Farm Payment being claimed.
its prob a grey area, but this is my understanding of it...
Yep, check the consultation responses from DARD on any of the applications currently online.
DARD are asked;
- Has the farm Business Id identified on Form P1C been in existence for more than 6 years?
- Has the business claimed Single Farm Payment (SFP), Less Favoured Area Compensatory Allowances (LFACA) or Agri Environment schemes in the last 6 years?
- Comments?
QuoteAnyone willing to post up a step by step guide on what is involved in securing planning permission for a site in the North? Have the land just the need the site passed shortly.
Cheers
We've had outline planning in since May...
For us it was
- Print off & Complete planning application Form (http://www.planningni.gov.uk/index/advice/fees_forms/p1_form_sept_2012.pdf)
- Print off & Complete PC1 Form (http://www.planningni.gov.uk/index/advice/fees_forms/form_p1c_version_3_march_2011.pdf) *
- Copy farm Business Maps*
- Print off ordnance survey map of land marking outline of land owned in blue & site applied for in red
- Post with cheque
*applying for a dwelling on a farm
Yeah, but its abit grey - "Has the business claimed .....in the last 6 years"
I'd read this as having claimed at some point in the past 6 years, not necessarily 6 consecutive years of claiming..
The other concern is how this will be in a couple of years, given the changes to SFP next year, as the changes to the councils.
the whole fecking process is full of grey areas hence why ours is taking so long...
Ours was just parked for a few months as they didn't know what to do with it as the policy doesn't directly deal with our situation, so looks like they're just going to refuse it to keep themselves right :-[
Quote from: offtheground on October 01, 2014, 09:08:51 AM
Yeah, but its abit grey - "Has the business claimed .....in the last 6 years"
I'd read this as having claimed at some point in the past 6 years, not necessarily 6 consecutive years of claiming..
The other concern is how this will be in a couple of years, given the changes to SFP next year, as the changes to the councils.
This is my main concern which doesn't seem to have been addressed by either the planners or DARD.
To confirm the SFP or other payment has to be claimed for the 6 years in order for the business to be deemed active for that period.
Weedonns have you had any pervious experience in submitting planning applications or did you just apply for this yourself without the services of and architect or an architectural technologist.
Quote from: Hereiam on October 01, 2014, 09:21:17 AM
Weedonns have you had any pervious experience in submitting planning applications or did you just apply for this yourself without the services of and architect or an architectural technologist.
No I've no experience but feel like an expert now having read through everything on the planning website numerous times!
You could certainly do it yourself, from looking online some people have. We had an architect friend help us - the main benefit being he picked the best site likely to get passed, while I would have originally picked another that I know now from reading everything, wouldn't have. He also drew up nice site location plans etc, but these aren't completely necessary.
In hindsight, I'd recommend getting someone with local planning knowledge who's in and out of the planning office regularly to keep the pressure on.
+ I've also noticed some application from architects who were former members of planning service where they've attached an additional sheet explaining how the application falls within this policy & complies with that etc etc
One of the guys on the board is a planning consultant
Without a doubt you would have been better off getting an architect to submit this as the planners look more favourably on applications submitted by professionals.
See, that seems a little unfair.
Our agent happens to be a chartered architect with a number of award winning designs to his name, but as far as they're concerned he's just Joe Bloggs with a home address in Belfast...
Looking favourably on applications depending on who submitted them is not how a government department should operate
Whats the approx cost of getting someone to submit an application for outline planning - including drawing up block plans etc?
Can range from £100-£300 depends where you are and what your applying for.
Whats the chances of PPS21 being changed relaxed in the near future?
would now be a good or bad time to buy a site if you are considering building?
With the new super councils the way planning applications are dealt with is changing and there was talk of new guidelines coming out to help with this.
What it means is that the local councillors are to make the decision whether or not they agree with the planning decision on each site. I would say we will be back to a brown envelope situation.
If I where you I would wait until this system is up a running you might have a better choice of site.
According to the ministers statement in Feb; http://www.planningni.gov.uk/index/policy/draft_spps_minister_s_statement_to_the_assembly_04_02_2014.pdf (http://www.planningni.gov.uk/index/policy/draft_spps_minister_s_statement_to_the_assembly_04_02_2014.pdf)
the new Strategic Planning Policy Statement for Northern Ireland (SPPS) will consolidate all the planning polices , i'm not sure if this means a loosening of the criteria or if each council will have to draw up their own policies based on the existing PPS21?
They say they will Publish SPPS in final form in Autumn / Winter 2014/15
Its all in the wording. The new policy is saying that a new dwelling must either visually integrate with the surrounding countryside of with a cluster of existing buildings which is a bit of a change from pps21. Time will tell.
Quote from: Hereiam on October 01, 2014, 03:26:34 PM
Its all in the wording. The new policy is saying that a new dwelling must either visually integrate with the surrounding countryside of with a cluster of existing buildings which is a bit of a change from pps21. Time will tell.
So there may be better chance of getting planning on a fresh rural site as longas it 'visually integrates with the countryside' ?
Its a pain in the a$$ at the minute for anyone who wants to live rurally.EItehr the sites are just not there and the planning is prohibitive of getting a site passed or any existing sites theya re still looking crazy moneya s they over paid for them in the boom times.
Heriam - Is there any mention of dwellings on Farms in the new policy? Specifically this nonsense around length of time a farm is established or length of time since it had another site passed?
Are you looking at the draft version on the planning website?
Quote from: the Deel Rover on September 30, 2014, 10:44:00 PM
Don't mind those residency clauses fl sure tis Ireland we are talking about and there are always loophole s
LOL Deel, I'll be calling for legal advise..
I have recently moved house and I am laying a whack of insulation down in the roof space, (cant believe it passed building control as there was feck all!) and was wondering should I also get the Kingspan foam to put in between the rafters running down the roof as well as the fibre glass stuff I am laying on the flat of the roof space? Or is there no need for both?
Just lay the fiberglass on the flat. 2 layers of 150mm one between the ceiling joists and the other layer going across the joists. No need for any on the slope of the roof.
Cheers lad, was thinking it might be over kill. Thanks
Does anyone know anywhere that you can get Tarmac tested to see if the correct mix was used. I know Queens can test concrete but can they test Tarmac
Quote from: Hereiam on October 31, 2014, 09:50:04 AM
Does anyone know anywhere that you can get Tarmac tested to see if the correct mix was used. I know Queens can test concrete but can they test Tarmac
They do but they're not big into it, more into concrete and soil mechanics. UUJ are big into it as the girl facing me done a PHD on Bitmac and Asphalt there.
When you say the correct mix do you mean the courses (base course and wearing course) or do you the actual Bitumen content ratio with stone?
What I have is a client that got SMA tarmac put down 6 months ago that is now starting to deteriorate where they turn the car. They wants to get the top coat tested to see if it is what its supposed to be.
Have you a contact number for her.
Quote from: Hereiam on October 31, 2014, 11:19:20 AM
What I have is a client that got SMA tarmac put down 6 months ago that is now starting to deteriorate where they turn the car. They wants to get the top coat tested to see if it is what its supposed to be.
Have you a contact number for her.
Firstly SMA is a better quality than standard Bitmac. Under no circumstances should it deteriorate after six months, they have obviously not supplied what they said they'd supply. The wearing course has probably been restricted to about 10-15mm instead of abut 40mm the base course may not be as deep as it should be and the base may not be compacted enough nor deep enough. the bottom line is SMA is a high quality product and if put down the proper guide line it should last 20 years.
What part of the country are you/they from?
Dungannon. Do you know anyone that could take a look at it.
Quote from: Hereiam on October 31, 2014, 01:00:31 PM
Dungannon. Do you know anyone that could take a look at it.
I sent you a PM earlier so u can email me a pic!!!
Quote from: HiMucker on October 28, 2014, 08:37:43 AM
Cheers lad, was thinking it might be over kill. Thanks
The only other main consideration is that you don't block out the flow of air with the insulation installation. Just depends on the construction I suppose.
It's necessary to have good air circulation in the space between the insulation layer and the roof. doesn't matter if it's cold air circulating.
Quote from: illdecide on October 31, 2014, 12:39:31 PM
Quote from: Hereiam on October 31, 2014, 11:19:20 AM
What I have is a client that got SMA tarmac put down 6 months ago that is now starting to deteriorate where they turn the car. They wants to get the top coat tested to see if it is what its supposed to be.
Have you a contact number for her.
Firstly SMA is a better quality than standard Bitmac. Under no circumstances should it deteriorate after six months, they have obviously not supplied what they said they'd supply. The wearing course has probably been restricted to about 10-15mm instead of abut 40mm the base course may not be as deep as it should be and the base may not be compacted enough nor deep enough. the bottom line is SMA is a high quality product and if put down the proper guide line it should last 20 years.
What part of the country are you/they from?
It could be one of a few different things fellas, poor compaction when laid, thin layer like ill decide says or the more likely one is that it has been dosed with too much "cutter" probably kerosene.
What the cutter does is allows the boys doing the job to have the material workable for longer, intake it this was a hand lay job hereiam?
If it has been dosed with cutter, the cutter needs to evaporate to allow the SMA to cure, if the cutter didn't get a chance to evaporate then the gouging under the wheels is only the start of it and it will get worse.
From memory there is a lab test called asphalt content determination, this shows up exactly how much bitumen etc etc there is in a sample, if the boys have laced her with kerosene this will show up on this test as well.
Let us know how this one plays out,paving and tarmacing contractors just love it when someone lab tests their stuff.........
Thanks for the info.
I need to find out if it was machine or hand laid. I dont think there is enough binder in it tbh. One thing i was told is that when it rains the water doesn't puddle on it at all its like the water is soaking through it. Would that be a worry
Quote from: Hereiam on November 01, 2014, 12:12:30 AM
Thanks for the info.
I need to find out if it was machine or hand laid. I dont think there is enough binder in it tbh. One thing i was told is that when it rains the water doesn't puddle on it at all its like the water is soaking through it. Would that be a worry
If it's supposed to be SMA then yes, SMA should be 99%impermeable, all the water on the road surface should drain to gullies etc, it should never soak through, first good nights frost will lift it.
Looking some advice here and I thought this was the most appropriate place for it. We bought our own house (New build that was vacant for approx 3 year for 62k) three years ago. My father in law has had a turn in health recently and my partner is keen to look at the option of buying a site of my father in law and building on his land. I spoke to the estate agent we bought of and he said.he would put our house on the market for 80k. After fees etc I would hope to come out with close to 20k for a follow on deposit.
My questions are:
1. Is there a mortgage out there for new builds? Are these hard to obtain?
2. My father in law bought his house and land recently and is under the impression that (a few.years ago) there was a site advertised on the land he bought. Is it possible to track this down? If this was the case would it be easier to go through the process of obtaining planning permission for a new site?
3. Finally, I have no clue about how much it is to build a house. Roughly speaking how much would a four bed bungalow cost. Wouldn't have a clue where to start re square footage. Would a four bed two story increase the cost majorly?
Quote from: omagh_gael on November 06, 2014, 11:16:18 AM
Looking some advice here and I thought this was the most appropriate place for it. We bought our own house (New build that was vacant for approx 3 year for 62k) three years ago. My father in law has had a turn in health recently and my partner is keen to look at the option of buying a site of my father in law and building on his land. I spoke to the estate agent we bought of and he said.he would put our house on the market for 80k. After fees etc I would hope to come out with close to 20k for a follow on deposit.
My questions are:
1. Is there a mortgage out there for new builds? Are these hard to obtain?
2. My father in law bought his house and land recently and is under the impression that (a few.years ago) there was a site advertised on the land he bought. Is it possible to track this down? If this was the case would it be easier to go through the process of obtaining planning permission for a new site?
3. Finally, I have no clue about how much it is to build a house. Roughly speaking how much would a four bed bungalow cost. Wouldn't have a clue where to start re square footage. Would a four bed two story increase the cost majorly?
by no means an expert on the topic but:
1. yes, and can be yes, best to speak to a mortgage broker.
2.Just because there used to be a site there doesnt mean it will be granted again if the planning has expired, but worth looking into. Try geopii.com you can seach planning applictaion (since 2010 )by map . or you can try the planning portal website.
3.if anything a two story of similar sq footage would be cheaper to build than a bungalow (broadly speaking) you are probably looking at anything from 2000-2500 sq feet depending on how big you want it (obviously you could go alot bigger than this too)
Quote from: omagh_gael on November 06, 2014, 11:16:18 AM
Looking some advice here and I thought this was the most appropriate place for it. We bought our own house (New build that was vacant for approx 3 year for 62k) three years ago. My father in law has had a turn in health recently and my partner is keen to look at the option of buying a site of my father in law and building on his land. I spoke to the estate agent we bought of and he said.he would put our house on the market for 80k. After fees etc I would hope to come out with close to 20k for a follow on deposit.
My questions are:
1. Is there a mortgage out there for new builds? Are these hard to obtain?
2. My father in law bought his house and land recently and is under the impression that (a few.years ago) there was a site advertised on the land he bought. Is it possible to track this down? If this was the case would it be easier to go through the process of obtaining planning permission for a new site?
3. Finally, I have no clue about how much it is to build a house. Roughly speaking how much would a four bed bungalow cost. Wouldn't have a clue where to start re square footage. Would a four bed two story increase the cost majorly?
1.There are still self build mortgages out there where you'd get staged payments as the build progresses, not sure who does them though, but I think Alliance and Leicester may do them. I'm sure you'll have to jump through some amount of hoops to get one now.
2. Your local planning office could tell you, but remember planning applications lapse after 3 or 5 years, I can't remember, may be dependent on whether it was an outline or full application.
3. New building regs require very high insulation requirements and whilst a good thing to do will push the costs up so I'd be expecting more than the normally quoted £50 per square foot than some contractors used to quote.
Looking some advice on attic insulation
There's 8ftx2ft chipboard flooring on a portion of my attic (for storage). Problem is there was never any insulation laid between the joists before they got nailed down by the builder. Because of the braces between the roof timbers I cant easily get insulation into the whole ceiling void covered by the chipbord and I'm thinking I would nearly need to tear up the floor to do so which I wouldnt want to do (I don't think so anyway). Has anyone any possible solutions to getting this area insulated with the least hassle (possibly kingspan on top of the floor maybe?) We're talking about 15-20 square meters
If the chipboard is only screwed down, it shouldn't be a big deal to unscrew it and lay insulation? If it's nailed down on the other hand, it'll be hassle.
If the Chipboard is nailed down then the easier solution is the insulate between the rafters. The Heat with be kept in! Just it will be at another level and your attic will be warmer, more aired and more comfortable to move things into.
(http://www.rb-building.com/uploads/images/Gallery/Builder-Projects/Sheffield-Loft-Attic-conversion-Woodseats-S8/rafters-kingspan.jpg)
Quote from: omagh_gael on November 06, 2014, 11:16:18 AM
Looking some advice here and I thought this was the most appropriate place for it. We bought our own house (New build that was vacant for approx 3 year for 62k) three years ago. My father in law has had a turn in health recently and my partner is keen to look at the option of buying a site of my father in law and building on his land. I spoke to the estate agent we bought of and he said.he would put our house on the market for 80k. After fees etc I would hope to come out with close to 20k for a follow on deposit.
My questions are:
1. Is there a mortgage out there for new builds? Are these hard to obtain?
2. My father in law bought his house and land recently and is under the impression that (a few.years ago) there was a site advertised on the land he bought. Is it possible to track this down? If this was the case would it be easier to go through the process of obtaining planning permission for a new site?
3. Finally, I have no clue about how much it is to build a house. Roughly speaking how much would a four bed bungalow cost. Wouldn't have a clue where to start re square footage. Would a four bed two story increase the cost majorly?
selfbuild.ie is a very good site and it is 32 county. They also have a magazine
Quote from: Hereiam on October 31, 2014, 09:50:04 AM
Does anyone know anywhere that you can get Tarmac tested to see if the correct mix was used. I know Queens can test concrete but can they test Tarmac
Mattest in Dunmurry are probably the best for testing for tar macadam. Ive used them quite a few times with the company i work for.
With regards to some of the statements on SMA given here, I've used and worked with it since it first came on the market and i have a few points to share,
1. SMA was never designed for driveways, it was designed for motorways and dual carriageways as it is quieter when trafficked, and most importantly it moves water of the surface very quickly preventing aquaplaning. It is a misnomer that it allows water through it when in actual fact the top surface is very open due to 14mm stone used in manufacturing it allowing rain water to sink into the surface and vehicles then to push it towards the verges.
2.SMA should only be machine laid due to the high bitumen content and difficulty in working it or elasticity. A lot of companies will hand lay it for you but and i stress this point, it takes a very good "raker" to get it right.
3.Regarding depths, the NIRAUC specifications state that 60mm/40mm (base/wearing course)split for category 4 roads which most back roads and side in ireland fall under but for SMA its generally 70/30. For driveways most contractors will quote for 100mm of type 1 sub base(Stone) and then a total of 70mm for bituminous products(40/30).
4. Finally why choose to SMA on a driveway when it is easily the most expensive, asphalt or Bitmac would suffice and look and perform just as well. Tarmac quarries tend to only do runs of SMA when the road service contractor are doing a large motorway resurfacing job as small batches don't pay so chances are that if the area isn't at all that big the SMA you received may have been laying in the hopper for awhile and starting to go off.
Quote from: seafoid on November 06, 2014, 08:00:30 PM
Quote from: omagh_gael on November 06, 2014, 11:16:18 AM
Looking some advice here and I thought this was the most appropriate place for it. We bought our own house (New build that was vacant for approx 3 year for 62k) three years ago. My father in law has had a turn in health recently and my partner is keen to look at the option of buying a site of my father in law and building on his land. I spoke to the estate agent we bought of and he said.he would put our house on the market for 80k. After fees etc I would hope to come out with close to 20k for a follow on deposit.
My questions are:
1. Is there a mortgage out there for new builds? Are these hard to obtain?
2. My father in law bought his house and land recently and is under the impression that (a few.years ago) there was a site advertised on the land he bought. Is it possible to track this down? If this was the case would it be easier to go through the process of obtaining planning permission for a new site?
3. Finally, I have no clue about how much it is to build a house. Roughly speaking how much would a four bed bungalow cost. Wouldn't have a clue where to start re square footage. Would a four bed two story increase the cost majorly?
selfbuild.ie is a very good site and it is 32 county. They also have a magazine
Discovered this site last week. Some great ideas and information including references for builders and architects. Also some costs included in some of the articles on self builds. Passive House or near Passive seems to be the way to go.
Quote from: FL/MAYO on November 06, 2014, 10:37:09 PM
Quote from: seafoid on November 06, 2014, 08:00:30 PM
Quote from: omagh_gael on November 06, 2014, 11:16:18 AM
Looking some advice here and I thought this was the most appropriate place for it. We bought our own house (New build that was vacant for approx 3 year for 62k) three years ago. My father in law has had a turn in health recently and my partner is keen to look at the option of buying a site of my father in law and building on his land. I spoke to the estate agent we bought of and he said.he would put our house on the market for 80k. After fees etc I would hope to come out with close to 20k for a follow on deposit.
My questions are:
1. Is there a mortgage out there for new builds? Are these hard to obtain?
2. My father in law bought his house and land recently and is under the impression that (a few.years ago) there was a site advertised on the land he bought. Is it possible to track this down? If this was the case would it be easier to go through the process of obtaining planning permission for a new site?
3. Finally, I have no clue about how much it is to build a house. Roughly speaking how much would a four bed bungalow cost. Wouldn't have a clue where to start re square footage. Would a four bed two story increase the cost majorly?
selfbuild.ie is a very good site and it is 32 county. They also have a magazine
Discovered this site last week. Some great ideas and information including references for builders and architects. Also some costs included in some of the articles on self builds. Passive House or near Passive seems to be the way to go.
the selfbuild show run by the guys that do the magzine is on in belfast in febuary. its probably not a bad palce to go to get ideas/information and see whats out there
Lads, I finally just got planning permission through for my new house. It's a 4 bed dormer bungalow. A lot of people have said to me I should throw up a timber frame house because it is cheaper and quicker, but I wasn't sure what are the pros and cons between timber frame and ordinary block build?
Quote from: Feckitt on November 11, 2014, 11:08:29 AM
Lads, I finally just got planning permission through for my new house. It's a 4 bed dormer bungalow. A lot of people have said to me I should throw up a timber frame house because it is cheaper and quicker, but I wasn't sure what are the pros and cons between timber frame and ordinary block build?
I'm no expert and I know there are a few guys on here who know more about it than me but i'll give you my opinion anyway...
Timber Frame home are slightly quicker to construct than traditional block houses but not as quick as they suggest, they are greener which is better for the environment and may improve the U value of your home.
Traditional block work for me is better as they have a good fire rating and the noise levels will also reduce. I would highly recommend you use the pre-stressed or pre-cast floor slabs(depends on your build), these are great fire rating and no noise from kids upstairs running riot plus you can have them designed so that you can build load bearing walls of them mid span
Quote from: Feckitt on November 11, 2014, 11:08:29 AM
Lads, I finally just got planning permission through for my new house. It's a 4 bed dormer bungalow. A lot of people have said to me I should throw up a timber frame house because it is cheaper and quicker, but I wasn't sure what are the pros and cons between timber frame and ordinary block build?
Look at this, container home in Derry
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oTgwLCMzpjc
Quote from: DrinkingHarp on November 12, 2014, 05:21:45 AM
Quote from: Feckitt on November 11, 2014, 11:08:29 AM
Lads, I finally just got planning permission through for my new house. It's a 4 bed dormer bungalow. A lot of people have said to me I should throw up a timber frame house because it is cheaper and quicker, but I wasn't sure what are the pros and cons between timber frame and ordinary block build?
Look at this, container home in Derry
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oTgwLCMzpjc
Where exactly ? Looks like a fabulous house for 130K
I think it was somewhere around Swatragh
Quote from: omagh_gael on November 06, 2014, 11:16:18 AM
Looking some advice here and I thought this was the most appropriate place for it. We bought our own house (New build that was vacant for approx 3 year for 62k) three years ago. My father in law has had a turn in health recently and my partner is keen to look at the option of buying a site of my father in law and building on his land. I spoke to the estate agent we bought of and he said.he would put our house on the market for 80k. After fees etc I would hope to come out with close to 20k for a follow on deposit.
My questions are:
1. Is there a mortgage out there for new builds? Are these hard to obtain?
2. My father in law bought his house and land recently and is under the impression that (a few.years ago) there was a site advertised on the land he bought. Is it possible to track this down? If this was the case would it be easier to go through the process of obtaining planning permission for a new site?
3. Finally, I have no clue about how much it is to build a house. Roughly speaking how much would a four bed bungalow cost. Wouldn't have a clue where to start re square footage. Would a four bed two story increase the cost majorly?
Progressive do self build mortgages, think ulster and halifax do too but they require you to have the roof on before you get the first stage payment.
Quote from: seafoid on November 12, 2014, 09:58:06 AM
Quote from: DrinkingHarp on November 12, 2014, 05:21:45 AM
Quote from: Feckitt on November 11, 2014, 11:08:29 AM
Lads, I finally just got planning permission through for my new house. It's a 4 bed dormer bungalow. A lot of people have said to me I should throw up a timber frame house because it is cheaper and quicker, but I wasn't sure what are the pros and cons between timber frame and ordinary block build?
Look at this, container home in Derry
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oTgwLCMzpjc
Where exactly ? Looks like a fabulous house for 130K
Don't have access to Youtube here, is this the Datsun Donaghy impersonator from Grand Designs?
Quote from: LeoMc on November 12, 2014, 01:15:47 PM
Quote from: seafoid on November 12, 2014, 09:58:06 AM
Quote from: DrinkingHarp on November 12, 2014, 05:21:45 AM
Quote from: Feckitt on November 11, 2014, 11:08:29 AM
Lads, I finally just got planning permission through for my new house. It's a 4 bed dormer bungalow. A lot of people have said to me I should throw up a timber frame house because it is cheaper and quicker, but I wasn't sure what are the pros and cons between timber frame and ordinary block build?
Look at this, container home in Derry
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oTgwLCMzpjc
Where exactly ? Looks like a fabulous house for 130K
Don't have access to Youtube here, is this the Datsun Donaghy impersonator from Grand Designs?
Yes. £130k on the basis that he is an architect and no doubt got serious discount from tradesmen of the back of the tv programme.
Lads, quick question which is probably obvious to most of you but not me! A few people have told me to allow around £60 per square foot for the build of our house. Does the square footage include the walls, or is it just the combined square footage of the internal rooms? It's 2500 foot squared vs 3000 foot squared so a considerable difference.
Cheers.
It is the internal area of the house including all internal walls
Quote from: Hereiam on November 18, 2014, 12:07:24 PM
It is the internal area of the house including all internal walls
Ha! So it's neither 2500 nor 3000. Thank you Hereiam!
Remembers its just a finger in the air
Another one on this.... basically we have a site with foundations already filled in in the Armagh area. The foundations were laid about 7/8 years ago. In the interim I believe there are some new regulations regarding the neccessity for a downstairs bedroom and shower. Does anyone know if we will have to include these if the foundations are already laid? Is it possible to alter foundation or ground floor bedrooms once they're laid?
I would say if you've the foundations in and building control have inspected them then your original plan that was passed by will still stand.
Guys can anyone recommend a uPVC window manufacture around the Belfast area.
Morning lads. We have a 3000 sq ft site with foundations in. We are coming around to the thinking that 3000 is far too big. If we wanted to reduce the size of the house is it a big undertaking to take out the foundations and amend the layout of the house? Also, I assume since we're reducing the size of the house that planning shouldn't be an issue? It's in Armagh by the way.
Cheers.
Quote from: mb80b60 on December 02, 2014, 08:45:32 AM
Morning lads. We have a 3000 sq ft site with foundations in. We are coming around to the thinking that 3000 is far too big. If we wanted to reduce the size of the house is it a big undertaking to take out the foundations and amend the layout of the house? Also, I assume since we're reducing the size of the house that planning shouldn't be an issue? It's in Armagh by the way.
Cheers.
Planning wise you would need to apply for a change of house type. If it is confirmed that the works had commenced on the site before the planning permission expired then the change of house type application should really only be a formality (if the design of the house is in any way reasonable).
Quote from: el_cuervo_fc on December 02, 2014, 09:01:15 AM
Quote from: mb80b60 on December 02, 2014, 08:45:32 AM
Morning lads. We have a 3000 sq ft site with foundations in. We are coming around to the thinking that 3000 is far too big. If we wanted to reduce the size of the house is it a big undertaking to take out the foundations and amend the layout of the house? Also, I assume since we're reducing the size of the house that planning shouldn't be an issue? It's in Armagh by the way.
Cheers.
Planning wise you would need to apply for a change of house type. If it is confirmed that the works had commenced on the site before the planning permission expired then the change of house type application should really only be a formality (if the design of the house is in any way reasonable).
That's what I was hoping Cuervo, cheers. Do you know if it's a big undertaking to change the founds when they're already in?
You are best to get a structural engineer to advise on this. It will not be a case of digging out a section of foundation and laying a new one in a different direction, the whole thing needs to be tied together or else it could be a nightmare. If you do dig up and relay foundations one thing that will happen is that you are going to increase the risk of "differential settlement" which will cause more cracks in the house.
Another option would be to get a good Architect or Technologist an try to use the existing founds and amend the layout of the around this. Anything is possible these days (if u have money).
My sister had this exact problem. As mentioned above, she went back to the architect and got it sorted. I think what happened was they got a garage added in, that they could easily renovate in the future if needed. I think there was a few other tweaks and that to reduce the square footage, but over all they didn't have to change the founds and reduced the cost of their build.
Quote from: HiMucker on December 02, 2014, 12:48:25 PM
My sister had this exact problem. As mentioned above, she went back to the architect and got it sorted. I think what happened was they got a garage added in, that they could easily renovate in the future if needed. I think there was a few other tweaks and that to reduce the square footage, but over all they didn't have to change the founds and reduced the cost of their build.
Thanks Mucker and HereIam. I have a couple of ideas for reducing the square footage (including incorporating the garage in the existing build and removing the sun room. Thanks for the advice, no doubt I'll be returning for more.
Looking some advice here on damp patches in a house? Our bedrooms/bathroom suffer badly from small damp patches etc on ceiling. I have 2 kids under 5 so the house is like a furnance most days so its not that the house is cold.
House is a standard 3 bed semi. I have been told that something called Positive Air is a good option, basically a fan in the attic that circulates air through vents. Anyone any experience of this from a cost/effectiveness perspective?
Cheers
Quote from: TabClear on December 12, 2014, 06:47:52 PM
Looking some advice here on damp patches in a house? Our bedrooms/bathroom suffer badly from small damp patches etc on ceiling. I have 2 kids under 5 so the house is like a furnance most days so its not that the house is cold.
House is a standard 3 bed semi. I have been told that something called Positive Air is a good option, basically a fan in the attic that circulates air through vents. Anyone any experience of this from a cost/effectiveness perspective?
Cheers
A couple of questions
What age is the house
Do the windows have trickle vents
Does the extract fan work in the bathroom
When u say damp is it damp to touch or is mould growin in these spots.
If its mould its a condensation problem.
For the ceilings i would go into the attic and see if the insulation had been moved above where the problem areas are.
A Drimaster unit in the attic with a vent into the hall would work. U might need to have a bit shaved of the bottom of the doors to help with air circulation so no need for a bent to each room.
If the extraction fan is not working get it fixed. The bathroom is a source of alot of moisture.
Quote from: Hereiam on December 12, 2014, 07:41:24 PM
Quote from: TabClear on December 12, 2014, 06:47:52 PM
Looking some advice here on damp patches in a house? Our bedrooms/bathroom suffer badly from small damp patches etc on ceiling. I have 2 kids under 5 so the house is like a furnance most days so its not that the house is cold.
House is a standard 3 bed semi. I have been told that something called Positive Air is a good option, basically a fan in the attic that circulates air through vents. Anyone any experience of this from a cost/effectiveness perspective?
Cheers
A couple of questions
What age is the house
Do the windows have trickle vents
Does the extract fan work in the bathroom
When u say damp is it damp to touch or is mould growin in these spots.
If its mould its a condensation problem.
For the ceilings i would go into the attic and see if the insulation had been moved above where the problem areas are.
A Drimaster unit in the attic with a vent into the hall would work. U might need to have a bit shaved of the bottom of the doors to help with air circulation so no need for a bent to each room.
If the extraction fan is not working get it fixed. The bathroom is a source of alot of moisture.
I have the same problem in one of my bathrooms. I turned off the extractor because it was too noisy and woke the kids every time I turned it on in the morning - result - condensation and mould! I just make sure I always open the window when I shower. Problem solved although it was a cold shower this morning with the windy open!
Quote from: CD on December 12, 2014, 07:48:49 PM
Quote from: Hereiam on December 12, 2014, 07:41:24 PM
Quote from: TabClear on December 12, 2014, 06:47:52 PM
Looking some advice here on damp patches in a house? Our bedrooms/bathroom suffer badly from small damp patches etc on ceiling. I have 2 kids under 5 so the house is like a furnance most days so its not that the house is cold.
House is a standard 3 bed semi. I have been told that something called Positive Air is a good option, basically a fan in the attic that circulates air through vents. Anyone any experience of this from a cost/effectiveness perspective?
Cheers
A couple of questions
What age is the house
Do the windows have trickle vents
Does the extract fan work in the bathroom
When u say damp is it damp to touch or is mould growin in these spots.
If its mould its a condensation problem.
For the ceilings i would go into the attic and see if the insulation had been moved above where the problem areas are.
A Drimaster unit in the attic with a vent into the hall would work. U might need to have a bit shaved of the bottom of the doors to help with air circulation so no need for a bent to each room.
If the extraction fan is not working get it fixed. The bathroom is a source of alot of moisture.
I have the same problem in one of my bathrooms. I turned off the extractor because it was too noisy and woke the kids every time I turned it on in the morning - result - condensation and mould! I just make sure I always open the window when I shower. Problem solved although it was a cold shower this morning with the windy open!
I do that too(open the window while shower)
I reckon the poor OAP lady that lives behind us has gotten an eyeful of me arse on more than one occasion!
Quote from: Hereiam on December 12, 2014, 07:41:24 PM
Quote from: TabClear on December 12, 2014, 06:47:52 PM
Looking some advice here on damp patches in a house? Our bedrooms/bathroom suffer badly from small damp patches etc on ceiling. I have 2 kids under 5 so the house is like a furnance most days so its not that the house is cold.
House is a standard 3 bed semi. I have been told that something called Positive Air is a good option, basically a fan in the attic that circulates air through vents. Anyone any experience of this from a cost/effectiveness perspective?
Cheers
A couple of questions
What age is the house
Do the windows have trickle vents
Does the extract fan work in the bathroom
When u say damp is it damp to touch or is mould growin in these spots.
If its mould its a condensation problem.
For the ceilings i would go into the attic and see if the insulation had been moved above where the problem areas are.
A Drimaster unit in the attic with a vent into the hall would work. U might need to have a bit shaved of the bottom of the doors to help with air circulation so no need for a bent to each room.
If the extraction fan is not working get it fixed. The bathroom is a source of alot of moisture.
Those little 4inch fans in a bathroom wall or ceiling are not worth fcuk.
What you need is a centrifugal condensation fan. Very expensive but you'll never have any bother with damp or steam build up...or smells ;)
Cheers Hereiam and LL. There is an extractor fan in the bathroom but its pretty weedy! That might be the first port of call. I am going to take a look at the insulation in the loft anyway to make sure its up to spec.
Appreciate the advice
Attic truss insulation. 150mm timbers. Would I be right in saying that 100 kingspan (or equivalent) is the way to go? or is battening it out further and putting in fibre a better (and cheaper?) job?
Guys just to let u know heriam talked the talk there. As for opening the bathroom window it actually has the opposite effect as the moisture is more dense than the air outside and when the window is opened it sends the moisture under door and will find itself on the nearest coldest wall. The best thing to do is keep bathroom door shut the window shut and the extractor fan on until bathroom is clear...
Not quite the right thread but possible correct audience. Anyone know where I would get my hands on the latest Spon's Price Book for works (civil) in ROI? Cheers,
Quote from: lfdown2 on January 09, 2015, 05:06:56 PM
Not quite the right thread but possible correct audience. Anyone know where I would get my hands on the latest Spon's Price Book for works (civil) in ROI? Cheers,
From memory you can order them online from spons press.
Again from memory the last edition was 2008 so pricing won't be current, anyway if your pricing right you won't need a book, do it yet self man ffs!!
Quote from: The Subbie on January 10, 2015, 12:36:03 AM
Quote from: lfdown2 on January 09, 2015, 05:06:56 PM
Not quite the right thread but possible correct audience. Anyone know where I would get my hands on the latest Spon's Price Book for works (civil) in ROI? Cheers,
From memory you can order them online from spons press.
Again from memory the last edition was 2008 so pricing won't be current, anyway if your pricing right you won't need a book, do it yet self man ffs!!
There is a more recent one, '13/'14...was thinking someone might have a spare edition ;)
Just started work in the south and would be handy for a check if nothing else though you're not wrong!
Quick question. We had a site and got plans for a house drawn up back in 2012. With changes in our circumstances we held of building and are now looking at it again. But we've got a site passed on family lad now and were going to submit the previous plans on the new site. (There's no real restrictions on the new site). We contacted the Architect again but he explained how regulations had changed since 2012 in relation to insulation etc and that they would need done again. He said he was going to charge us roughly the same again. So instead we asked for AutoCAD copies of the plans but he refused citing copyright. We were a bit miffed considering we had paid him for the original plans.
We have a friend who is going to redo the plans but needed the AutoCAD copies otherwise it's a lot bigger process for him. I'm assuming the Architect is within his rights to withhold the CADs?
Also we're going to price everything ourselves rather than contractor. Anyone point to a good website for working through this? I've a fair idea of most things but would be nice to see a rough timetable or plan that I could follow to keep me right or to give good building advise.
Quote from: supersarsfields on January 28, 2015, 01:45:56 PM
Quick question. We had a site and got plans for a house drawn up back in 2012. With changes in our circumstances we held of building and are now looking at it again. But we've got a site passed on family lad now and were going to submit the previous plans on the new site. (There's no real restrictions on the new site). We contacted the Architect again but he explained how regulations had changed since 2012 in relation to insulation etc and that they would need done again. He said he was going to charge us roughly the same again. So instead we asked for AutoCAD copies of the plans but he refused citing copyright. We were a bit miffed considering we had paid him for the original plans.
We have a friend who is going to redo the plans but needed the AutoCAD copies otherwise it's a lot bigger process for him. I'm assuming the Architect is within his rights to withhold the CADs?
Also we're going to price everything ourselves rather than contractor. Anyone point to a good website for working through this? I've a fair idea of most things but would be nice to see a rough timetable or plan that I could follow to keep me right or to give good building advise.
If you paid him for drawings the plans are yours but only the paper copies. If you want the dwg files that would be a different matter as these could be changed and his templates and logo would still be on them.
Yeah kind of figured it would be something like that. He's now agreed to send through stripped plans with the design on them but nothing else so at least it'll be a starting point for the other guy.
Regarding the second question, anyone know any good sites that run through the building process and outlines what all needs to be done and when. Or at least can give a decent plan that we could work from?
Quote from: theskull1 on December 13, 2014, 11:42:29 AM
Attic truss insulation. 150mm timbers. Would I be right in saying that 100 kingspan (or equivalent) is the way to go? or is battening it out further and putting in fibre a better (and cheaper?) job?
I cut the 100mm foiled back insulation between the trusses in my attic, great job, but a soul destroying and dirty job.
I think the price of insulation is pretty expensive now, I was buying three 8 by 4 feet sheets of 100mm foil backed for £27 quid, I think its more than twice that now!
Ever had a look at those lads who blow in the stuff between the rafters?
The architect is within his/her rights to keep the Cad files and supply you with paper copies or/and PDF files. I would def go back to him/her and offer a reduced fee (even cash) for the amended plans and see what he/she says. Put the ball back in their court!!!
It is a bit bad on Architect TBH and it doesn't surprise me as 90% of Architects are arseho*es and they're usually that far up their own asses they don't give a hoot about anyone else. They think they're God (not Peter Canavan...lol)
There is still an odd good one about.
Next door are puting up an extension but the speed of how it is going up is quite alarming now its a single story extension so it might be ok but this is how quickly its gone up and it looks a bit suspect to me.
friday 16th January they dug the foundations the following monday poured concrete in foundations was a frost that night but they didnt cover the founds, the next day they laid brick on it to bring up the floor levels. 2 days later they poured the concrete floor just before dark again another frost not covered. the following day the entire walls were up. Sat 24th started doing the roof attaching it to a what looked like 4 by 2 screwed into both walls. nothing done this week im assuming they are in dispute with the owners as the roof pitch is way higher than anyone elses extensions in he row.
is this excessively quick?? ive never seen an extension go up so quick. its about 25 * 20 ft .
Snoop dog very quick must be Mc Greevy construction in hilltown never saw anyone as quick building houses as them
[quote a
Quote from: snoopdog on January 30, 2015, 03:42:54 PM
Next door are puting up an extension but the speed of how it is going up is quite alarming now its a single story extension so it might be ok but this is how quickly its gone up and it looks a bit suspect to me.
friday 16th January they dug the foundations the following monday poured concrete in foundations was a frost that night but they didnt cover the founds, the next day they laid brick on it to bring up the floor levels. 2 days later they poured the concrete floor just before dark again another frost not covered. the following day the entire walls were up. Sat 24th started doing the roof attaching it to a what looked like 4 by 2 screwed into both walls. nothing done this week im assuming they are in dispute with the owners as the roof pitch is way higher than anyone elses extensions in he row.
is this excessively quick?? ive never seen an extension go up so quick. its about 25 * 20 ft .
uthor=Hereiam link=topic=18673.msg1435378#msg1435378 date=1422566903]
There is still an odd good one about.
[/quote]u havnt said how many men were building it.they couldn't have build it in 1 day as it would hav fell over.usually 12 row to wallplate.max in a day would be 7/8 row in winter time.any more and it would fall over.mortar has to set you see.if they had it on a price then it could be done in a very quick time.one thing u don't need to do is cover the founds in frosty weather.
Very hard to hold 12 course plumb. Normally scaffold high in a day then top it off. No way you could set heads on all in one day. It would take it twice as long to dry out this time of year
Gibson Paving from Portglenone ... anyone any experience of them good or bad?
Does anyone have a rough estimate of the price of getting electricity connected to a site? We are roughly 100 feet from another fairly new property.
This is in the Armagh area btw.
Quote from: mb80b60 on February 11, 2015, 04:41:58 PM
Does anyone have a rough estimate of the price of getting electricity connected to a site? We are roughly 100 feet from another fairly new property.
This is in the Armagh area btw.
Go and ask your neighbour and just get an NIE survey. So many variables involved - the brother in law paid about 10 grand and he isn't far from another dwelling and main road.
Quote from: Tony Baloney on February 11, 2015, 05:32:49 PM
Quote from: mb80b60 on February 11, 2015, 04:41:58 PM
Does anyone have a rough estimate of the price of getting electricity connected to a site? We are roughly 100 feet from another fairly new property.
This is in the Armagh area btw.
Go and ask your neighbour and just get an NIE survey. So many variables involved - the brother in law paid about 10 grand and he isn't far from another dwelling and main road.
Thanks Tony, I assume when you say a NIE survey that they come out and give a quote for the work?
Anybody have a rough idea how much it would be to build a small garage?
What size?
Standard 300mm cavity wall plastered?
Roof slate or concrete tile?
Roller door?
Any windows?
Standrad wall plastered.
Slates would depend on what is cheapest.
Probably a roller door and one window.
Boiler will be put it the garage and probably a bit of fire wood.
Small enough.
Quote from: FermGael on February 12, 2015, 12:29:19 PM
Standrad wall plastered.
Slates would depend on what is cheapest.
Probably a roller door and one window.
Boiler will be put it the garage and probably a bit of fire wood.
Small enough.
Never bother getting the inside skin plastered, it'll look fine brushed and jointed, if you use decent brickies.
Built one a 7-8 years ago cost about 10 grand. One window and mahogney door and a sliding panel door instead of the roller one better quality and less noise. I plastered the inside in sand and cement. I would advise you to go bigger than you need now as it doesn't take long to fill it up. You can pick up a good steel frame and sheeting shed for less. Still a good job if you go for double skin on the roof to save drips
For a single garage
£1000 for footings
£700 for power floated conc floor
£1500 for blocks+brickie
£1000 for plastering + plaster
£3000 for roof structure + joiner
£800 for roller door (brush seals will make it doesn't rattle)
£600 for pvc door & window
Wouldn't want to pay much more
Didn't want to start a new thread so thought I'd ask here.
I've bought a load of outdoor rubber tiles(1m x 1m and 50mm depth) to build a play area for the kids.
What's the best way to get a good level ground underneath? Would paving sand be suitable?
Quote from: laoislad on February 19, 2015, 11:14:14 PM
Didn't want to start a new thread so thought I'd ask here.
I've bought a load of outdoor rubber tiles(1m x 1m and 50mm depth) to build a play area for the kids.
What's the best way to get a good level ground underneath? Would paving sand be suitable?
Yes do well LL...dust blinding or sand will do the trick (don't for get to compact it)
Quote from: illdecide on February 20, 2015, 08:43:13 AM
Quote from: laoislad on February 19, 2015, 11:14:14 PM
Didn't want to start a new thread so thought I'd ask here.
I've bought a load of outdoor rubber tiles(1m x 1m and 50mm depth) to build a play area for the kids.
What's the best way to get a good level ground underneath? Would paving sand be suitable?
Yes do well LL...dust blinding or sand will do the trick (don't for get to compact it)
Good man. Would a good stamp with my feet do or would I need to hire a roller?
The area is about 10sq meters.
Quote from: laoislad on February 20, 2015, 10:20:08 AM
Quote from: illdecide on February 20, 2015, 08:43:13 AM
Quote from: laoislad on February 19, 2015, 11:14:14 PM
Didn't want to start a new thread so thought I'd ask here.
I've bought a load of outdoor rubber tiles(1m x 1m and 50mm depth) to build a play area for the kids.
What's the best way to get a good level ground underneath? Would paving sand be suitable?
Yes do well LL...dust blinding or sand will do the trick (don't for get to compact it)
Good man. Would a good stamp with my feet do or would I need to hire a roller?
The area is about 10sq meters.
lol...depends on how quick you want them to sink...lol...only messing. Unless your putting them on top of sleech then you will be able to put the blinding or sand directly to the clay and bed them in. A possible option is to put a layer of polyethylene under to stop weeds coming through. Dunno about your feet but a good roller would be grand or a bit of 4x2 timber straight edge to level it out and give it a light whack will do the trick too
Quote from: illdecide on February 20, 2015, 11:29:15 AM
Quote from: laoislad on February 20, 2015, 10:20:08 AM
Quote from: illdecide on February 20, 2015, 08:43:13 AM
Quote from: laoislad on February 19, 2015, 11:14:14 PM
Didn't want to start a new thread so thought I'd ask here.
I've bought a load of outdoor rubber tiles(1m x 1m and 50mm depth) to build a play area for the kids.
What's the best way to get a good level ground underneath? Would paving sand be suitable?
Yes do well LL...dust blinding or sand will do the trick (don't for get to compact it)
Good man. Would a good stamp with my feet do or would I need to hire a roller?
The area is about 10sq meters.
lol...depends on how quick you want them to sink...lol...only messing. Unless your putting them on top of sleech then you will be able to put the blinding or sand directly to the clay and bed them in. A possible option is to put a layer of polyethylene under to stop weeds coming through. Dunno about your feet but a good roller would be grand or a bit of 4x2 timber straight edge to level it out and give it a light whack will do the trick too
Hire a whacking plate, better than a roller.
No need to go over the top for a play area for the kids, I doubt there'll be any structural loading and a whack with a plank will do it grand
Quote from: laoislad on February 19, 2015, 11:14:14 PM
Didn't want to start a new thread so thought I'd ask here.
I've bought a load of outdoor rubber tiles(1m x 1m and 50mm depth) to build a play area for the kids.
What's the best way to get a good level ground underneath? Would paving sand be suitable?
Where did ye get these from LL - looking into doing something like this myself atm?
Quote from: BenDover on February 20, 2015, 03:57:33 PM
Quote from: laoislad on February 19, 2015, 11:14:14 PM
Didn't want to start a new thread so thought I'd ask here.
I've bought a load of outdoor rubber tiles(1m x 1m and 50mm depth) to build a play area for the kids.
What's the best way to get a good level ground underneath? Would paving sand be suitable?
Where did ye get these from LL - looking into doing something like this myself atm?
Actually bought them from Done Deal. The guy has loads of them. Got them for €13 a square meter.
They are way more expensive than that new.Maybe 3 or 4 times more expensive. These just need a good power wash and they'll be fine.
The guy is in Navan.
Here you go
http://www.donedeal.ie/gardenplants-for-sale/rubber-tiles-used/8696933?offset=4
Another insulation question here lads. I have had a problem with damp and had a guy out to quote on a positive air system. The house has no cavity walls and he has said that the house needs lined inside the exterior walls with 75 mm plasterboard backed insulation. This work plus the installation of the system is £950. Its a small semi detached house. Usual layout for Belfast, 2 double bedrooms and one small box room.
Would any of you have an idea of how much it would cost to do the drylining on its own as I might try that first to see if it solves the problem. The guy i had out is a Positive Air system retailer so he will not quote without this included. Just wondering if anybody has an idea of what the likely split is for the drylining part. (if the drylining is going to be 80% of the cost I woudl probably go the whole lot at once for convenience)
Cheers
Quote from: TabClear on February 24, 2015, 07:12:29 AM
Another insulation question here lads. I have had a problem with damp and had a guy out to quote on a positive air system. The house has no cavity walls and he has said that the house needs lined inside the exterior walls with 75 mm plasterboard backed insulation. This work plus the installation of the system is £950. Its a small semi detached house. Usual layout for Belfast, 2 double bedrooms and one small box room.
Would any of you have an idea of how much it would cost to do the drylining on its own as I might try that first to see if it solves the problem. The guy i had out is a Positive Air system retailer so he will not quote without this included. Just wondering if anybody has an idea of what the likely split is for the drylining part. (if the drylining is going to be 80% of the cost I woudl probably go the whole lot at once for convenience)
Cheers
I had a problem with damp/condensation in a 3 bed bungalow(nothing major, a damp corner in one of the bedrooms and some condensation on the windos/front door in the mornings) and installed one of these in the
roofspace http://www.amazon.co.uk/Nuaire-Drimaster-Condensation-Ventilation-Loft/dp/B0074K582E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1424770742&sr=8-2&keywords=nuaire+drimaster (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Nuaire-Drimaster-Condensation-Ventilation-Loft/dp/B0074K582E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1424770742&sr=8-2&keywords=nuaire+drimaster)
sorted the problem and very easy to put in, did it myself just. cost me about £240 and a couple of hours of my time
Quote from: laoislad on February 20, 2015, 04:02:56 PM
Quote from: BenDover on February 20, 2015, 03:57:33 PM
Quote from: laoislad on February 19, 2015, 11:14:14 PM
Didn't want to start a new thread so thought I'd ask here.
I've bought a load of outdoor rubber tiles(1m x 1m and 50mm depth) to build a play area for the kids.
What's the best way to get a good level ground underneath? Would paving sand be suitable?
Where did ye get these from LL - looking into doing something like this myself atm?
Actually bought them from Done Deal. The guy has loads of them. Got them for €13 a square meter.
They are way more expensive than that new.Maybe 3 or 4 times more expensive. These just need a good power wash and they'll be fine.
The guy is in Navan.
Here you go
http://www.donedeal.ie/gardenplants-for-sale/rubber-tiles-used/8696933?offset=4
Good man meeting this boy on Saturday to collect some of these. He said they're fairly dirty did u try power hosing them? Have they came up OK?
I gave one a power wash just to see and it came up ok. He told me to dilute some bleach and scrub that on it first but I haven't done it yet.
I haven't got around to laying these down yet but I'm happy enough with them,just be warned they are very heavy and big. I got 11 of them in the back of an Audi A4 estate but wouldn't have fit anymore and the wheel arches were well down over the wheels on the drive home!
For the price though they are very good and I'm confident with a proper wash they'll be fine.
Aye I'm getting my hands on a twin axle van to lift the load. With the size and the weight of these things do they need joined up when being laid or is it a case of lay them level and flush to each other and that's it sorted? I priced a firm who put the flooring into my mates gym and for nearly the same tile 1m x 1m x 40mm they were after €36 + Vat, these are a bargain.
Quote from: BenDover on February 24, 2015, 02:53:24 PM
Aye I'm getting my hands on a twin axle van to lift the load. With the size and the weight of these things do they need joined up when being laid or is it a case of lay them level and flush to each other and that's it sorted? I priced a firm who put the flooring into my mates gym and for nearly the same tile 1m x 1m x 40mm they were after €36 + Vat, these are a bargain.
will they not turn up at the corners if they're not stuck down with something?
Quote from: BenDover on February 24, 2015, 02:53:24 PM
Aye I'm getting my hands on a twin axle van to lift the load. With the size and the weight of these things do they need joined up when being laid or is it a case of lay them level and flush to each other and that's it sorted? I priced a firm who put the flooring into my mates gym and for nearly the same tile 1m x 1m x 40mm they were after €36 + Vat, these are a bargain.
I don't really know. I was just gonna put them on a level base and lay them side by side and hope for the best.They are really heavy so hopefully that should be enough.
I'm not really sure how you would join them anyway.
Quote from: laoislad on February 24, 2015, 03:11:42 PM
Quote from: BenDover on February 24, 2015, 02:53:24 PM
Aye I'm getting my hands on a twin axle van to lift the load. With the size and the weight of these things do they need joined up when being laid or is it a case of lay them level and flush to each other and that's it sorted? I priced a firm who put the flooring into my mates gym and for nearly the same tile 1m x 1m x 40mm they were after €36 + Vat, these are a bargain.
I don't really know. I was just gonna put them on a level base and lay them side by side and hope for the best.They are really heavy so hopefully that should be enough.
I'm not really sure how you would join them anyway.
run a bit of silicone adhesive down the sides I'd have thought!
Quote from: johnneycool on February 24, 2015, 03:17:30 PM
Quote from: laoislad on February 24, 2015, 03:11:42 PM
Quote from: BenDover on February 24, 2015, 02:53:24 PM
Aye I'm getting my hands on a twin axle van to lift the load. With the size and the weight of these things do they need joined up when being laid or is it a case of lay them level and flush to each other and that's it sorted? I priced a firm who put the flooring into my mates gym and for nearly the same tile 1m x 1m x 40mm they were after €36 + Vat, these are a bargain.
I don't really know. I was just gonna put them on a level base and lay them side by side and hope for the best.They are really heavy so hopefully that should be enough.
I'm not really sure how you would join them anyway.
run a bit of silicone adhesive down the sides I'd have thought!
liquid nail is your friend.
Lads quick question on planning permission
If planning has been granted, site cleared, foundations dug and concrete for founds (no footings or sub floor work done yet) in will that prevent planning permission from expiring?
Quote from: giveherlong on February 27, 2015, 01:58:06 PM
Lads quick question on planning permission
If planning has been granted, site cleared, foundations dug and concrete for founds (no footings or sub floor work done yet) in will that prevent planning permission from expiring?
No. In the same boat as yourself and have been advised that the above is all you need. Has building control been out?
No in that I need to do more work?
Building control would have been out to inspect founds before concrete poured
Has the access being formed along with visibility splays. Its important that a building control application was made and the building control were out to look at the foundations as this is the paper trial needed if there are any problems further down the line.
Quote from: Hereiam on February 27, 2015, 02:26:16 PM
Has the access being formed along with visibility splays. Its important that a building control application was made and the building control were out to look at the foundations as this is the paper trial needed if there are any problems further down the line.
100% correct, I work in Building Control, biggest problem we have is going back to properties where work has been carried out with no BC applications, inspections or records. We then have to carry out a regularisation which physically can't inspect or see everything.
Does a house need the building control passed in north. living 2 years and I mighten bother if I can get away with it. what are the implications if I don't bother. anybody I know that build a house thas last 5 yrs hasn't bother completing the snagging list
Quote from: redzone on March 03, 2015, 03:19:46 PM
Does a house need the building control passed in north. living 2 years and I mighten bother if I can get away with it. what are the implications if I don't bother. anybody I know that build a house thas last 5 yrs hasn't bother completing the snagging list
You'll not be able to sell it, other than that, I can't think of anything.
Quote from: redzone on March 03, 2015, 03:19:46 PM
Does a house need the building control passed in north. living 2 years and I mighten bother if I can get away with it. what are the implications if I don't bother. anybody I know that build a house thas last 5 yrs hasn't bother completing the snagging list
have you already claimed your VAT
Quote from: cockahoop on March 03, 2015, 03:53:06 PM
Quote from: redzone on March 03, 2015, 03:19:46 PM
Does a house need the building control passed in north. living 2 years and I mighten bother if I can get away with it. what are the implications if I don't bother. anybody I know that build a house thas last 5 yrs hasn't bother completing the snagging list
have you already claimed your VAT
yeah,id a letter from the mortgage compny stating the the final payment had been handed over
Quote from: redzone on March 03, 2015, 03:19:46 PM
Does a house need the building control passed in north. living 2 years and I mighten bother if I can get away with it. what are the implications if I don't bother. anybody I know that build a house thas last 5 yrs hasn't bother completing the snagging list
first thing a solicitor asks for should you wish to sell it on will be the certificates, without Building Control certificates you wont be allowed to. Also you could get into a whole lot of bother for carrying out illegal works.
the snagging list is a personal thing, whether you're happy enough with the standard of work or not, its nothing to do with BC
Building control can start legal proceedings if they cant get the information they require to issue a final certificate.
Quote from: Hereiam on March 03, 2015, 04:33:24 PM
Building control can start legal proceedings if they cant get the information they require to issue a final certificate.
Correct
Quote from: BenDover on February 24, 2015, 02:53:24 PM
Aye I'm getting my hands on a twin axle van to lift the load. With the size and the weight of these things do they need joined up when being laid or is it a case of lay them level and flush to each other and that's it sorted? I priced a firm who put the flooring into my mates gym and for nearly the same tile 1m x 1m x 40mm they were after €36 + Vat, these are a bargain.
Did you get those tiles after?
Still haven't put down mine yet.
Yes I have them, not laid them myself yet. Garden currently getting dug out and drainage put in. once that's all sorted I'll be laying them. They're some job hope they come as well after a scrub with diluted bleach & water and a power hose
Quote from: BenDover on March 12, 2015, 08:46:01 AM
Yes I have them, not laid them myself yet. Garden currently getting dug out and drainage put in. once that's all sorted I'll be laying them. They're some job hope they come as well after a scrub with diluted bleach & water and a power hose
You shoring the garden yourself or getting someone to do it? Ours is a f**king mire at the minute.
Obtained planning permission for a new house.
Considering a log burner for the heating with the renewable heat incentive now available in the North.
Have anyone any opinion on same, or what other form of heating system would be recommended.
any plumbers on here. large tank in attic (cold water) seems to be constanley flowing,although a very light flow. When I push the ball c**k up fully it lessens the flow but only slightly. Do I need a new ball c**k or will the washer just need replaced. Where do I turn of the supply to the tank. Under the kitchen sink?
Most likely its dirt in the valve or a seal is worn. Turn water off usually under the sink and remove the valve and take a look at it if you don't see any dirt/grit check the seal.
Quote from: North Man on March 12, 2015, 10:18:39 PM
Obtained planning permission for a new house.
Considering a log burner for the heating with the renewable heat incentive now available in the North.
Have anyone any opinion on same, or what other form of heating system would be recommended.
Do you have any more details on this North Man?
Quote from: mb80b60 on March 24, 2015, 09:31:39 AM
Quote from: North Man on March 12, 2015, 10:18:39 PM
Obtained planning permission for a new house.
Considering a log burner for the heating with the renewable heat incentive now available in the North.
Have anyone any opinion on same, or what other form of heating system would be recommended.
Do you have any more details on this North Man?
http://www.nidirect.gov.uk/index/information-and-services/environment-and-greener-living/energy-wise/energy-saving-grants.htm
Quote from: North Man on March 12, 2015, 10:18:39 PM
Obtained planning permission for a new house.
Considering a log burner for the heating with the renewable heat incentive now available in the North.
Have anyone any opinion on same, or what other form of heating system would be recommended.
Same stage as yourself North Man and considering a wood pellet burner. The proposed house is story and a half, 2500 sq ft. I sent a copy of my plans to a Renewable Energy company and they gave me a quote of around £5500 for the burner including installation and labour. They done a calculation and estimate that I would get around £900 a year back through RHI for 7 years, plus you get a payment of £2,500 through RHI when the boiler is commissioned. You would need a garage/shed to house the burner, so if you weren't planning on building one with the house you would have to factor that into the cost as well.
If the RHI calculations I was given are near the mark it seems to make sense financially, and you would think that even after 7 years when the RHI payments stop that you would still be saving as wood pellets are likely to be cheaper than oil, although there isn't much difference in price between the two at the minute.
The main concern I have is the operation of the burner itself, there is a bit more maintenance in them than an oil burner as you have to load them with Bags of pellets and clean them regularly (empty the ash). That wouldn't be a big deal but from looking online some people were complaining that they had constant issues with the burner and as they aren't as common as oil burners it can cost a fortune to get someone to repair them http://blog.greenwisebusiness.co.uk/2013/04/10-things-your-installer-wont-tell-you-before-you-purchase-a-biomass-boiler/
So I guess I'm asking the same question, does anybody have any experience of wood pellet burners or know anybody who has one and would be able to advise on whether they are worth it?
A friend of mine has one in on the same scheme. The pellet boiler has give him trouble about 5 times this winter, from sensors failing to not firing up. The last load of pellets were pure dirt and had to be replaced but Balcas would not refund the full amount. He has also has not received any money yet for the cost of the pellets.
I would say to people it may sound an attractive offer with the payment for 7 years but bear in mind that governments change and I have heard talk of this payment been reduced.
Has anyone bought there windows or other materials from abroad? I was chatting someone who was off the opinion that would save 40-60% on the price of windows if you bought from Scandinavian countries or Germany, and there were to a higher insulation standard due to the weather
Quote from: Hereiam on March 30, 2015, 09:46:30 AM
A friend of mine has one in on the same scheme. The pellet boiler has give him trouble about 5 times this winter, from sensors failing to not firing up. The last load of pellets were pure dirt and had to be replaced but Balcas would not refund the full amount. He has also has not received any money yet for the cost of the pellets.
I would say to people it may sound an attractive offer with the payment for 7 years but bear in mind that governments change and I have heard talk of this payment been reduced.
Do you know what company he went through to buy/install the boiler or what the make of the boiler is? The reliability and performance of the boiler would be my main concern about going down the biomass route
What are the typical costs to get water / electric connected to a rural site in the north?
Or does it vary wildly?
Anyone have a ball park figure?
Depends how close the nearest supply is to the site.
If you need to put poles in or bury a lot of cable for the electric then this can increase the cost.
Same with the water if you have to go under the road to get to the mains then this will add cost.
If everything is close by then
water - £300 approx.
Electric- £600.00 - £1200.00
You normally make an application to NIE and they will call out and then send you a quote based on what they come across.
Of course if you know the right people it could cost very little :P
The minimum charge for a water connection nowadays is in the region of 800 quid. If it has to come across the road it will be 1200 quid plus. Nie is really a how long is a piece of string question.
Quote from: oakleafgael on April 22, 2015, 10:59:01 PM
The minimum charge for a water connection nowadays is in the region of 800 quid. If it has to come across the road it will be 1200 quid plus. Nie is really a how long is a piece of string question.
Well In tems of how handy things are, there are no electric poles along the road, but there is a new-ish house about 150 metres up the road on the same side.
The site is reasonably close to the roadside.
Quote from: blewuporstuffed on April 23, 2015, 08:06:42 AM
Quote from: oakleafgael on April 22, 2015, 10:59:01 PM
The minimum charge for a water connection nowadays is in the region of 800 quid. If it has to come across the road it will be 1200 quid plus. Nie is really a how long is a piece of string question.
Well In tems of how handy things are, there are no electric poles along the road, but there is a new-ish house about 150 metres up the road on the same side.
The site is reasonably close to the roadside.
Ask the owner of the new house how much they paid. If they had to pay a large connection charge to allow for poles and a transformer etc and the line is then extended over to you, NIE will give him a rebate that you will be liable for.
Looking at putting down an asphalt driveway, any suitable recommendations for contractors in the Co. Armagh area, and does anyone have an idea of a rough cost /sq m for asphalt? Thanks.
Getting to be a bit of an expert in this area with the problems I am having on a job.
Asphalt is in and around £20 /sq.m
Quote from: blewuporstuffed on April 22, 2015, 10:00:52 AM
What are the typical costs to get water / electric connected to a rural site in the north?
Or does it vary wildly?
Anyone have a ball park figure?
For Electric, see page 39 of this schedule.
http://www.nie.co.uk/documents/Connections/NIE-Distribution-Connection-Charging-Statement-Oct.aspx
Quote from: oakleafgael on April 23, 2015, 11:02:44 AM
Quote from: blewuporstuffed on April 23, 2015, 08:06:42 AM
Quote from: oakleafgael on April 22, 2015, 10:59:01 PM
The minimum charge for a water connection nowadays is in the region of 800 quid. If it has to come across the road it will be 1200 quid plus. Nie is really a how long is a piece of string question.
Well In tems of how handy things are, there are no electric poles along the road, but there is a new-ish house about 150 metres up the road on the same side.
The site is reasonably close to the roadside.
A similar question then in terms of phone connection?
Is this something BT do free of charge or for a set fee or is it dependant on distance etc
Ask the owner of the new house how much they paid. If they had to pay a large connection charge to allow for poles and a transformer etc and the line is then extended over to you, NIE will give him a rebate that you will be liable for.
Is this the way (or ways) forward?
http://www.bbc.com/culture/story/20130719-exciting-housing-innovations (http://www.bbc.com/culture/story/20130719-exciting-housing-innovations)
Anyone know much about mechanical ventilation and heat recovery? Been advised to put it into our new build by a friend who's in the construction business (just advising he's not commercially involved). But would like to get a second opinion?
Not sure if the initial cost is justifiable true blue. U could spend 3-5k on a system and the payback is 10yrs plus. The best thing about is that u will always have a fresh air feel to the inside of the house. The main expense to these systems is the ducting. If ur only at drawing stage u could be smart and plan the routes and make the ducts out of plywood/plasterboard.
If u are building timber frame it would useful as these are more or less buikt air tight so its a good way of gettin air in an out.
In my own house i put a drimaster (piv) in my roofspace which puts filtered air down into the house via a ceiling vent. Does the job.
Building regs are due to change and they will be tightening up on ventilation so it looks like a whole house heat recovery could be made the minimum standard.
Cheers Hereiam. I've been told that in order for it to work right we need to be building to passive house standards (I think that was the term). The benefit for us he reckoned was that we could put underfloor heating in downstairs in some of the rooms (Basically the tiled rooms, 3 in 1 and halls) and that we wouldn't have to put radiators in the other couple of rooms (Living room and toy room) as the MVHR system would transfer the heat. Thought that it would be a bit of a risk but he seems to think if done right it's the way to go.
If u think about what he is saying. Using one area of a house to provide heat from the underfloor and then transfer it to the other rooms. Waste of time, unless there is alot of solar gain ur still gona be using oil to heat the other rooms. Ur room stat will always be calling for heat.
Sounds like rubbish to me unless the mhrv is going to reheat the drawn air from the rooms with the underfloor. You'll never transfer heat from one area to the other through ductwork without heat loss so those rooms will always be colder. I thought the primary benefit of MHRV was to recover the heat from already warm (higher than ambient) air e.g. from bathroom and kitchen extracts.
I have my doubts about it as well. But there's plenty on line about it. I found the below on another website that were discussing it.
Payback is important but there is other benefits that are of interest as well.
pros.
1. controlled ventilation system independent of outside wind and pressure.
2. Air quality and filtration.
3. steady stable heat delivery.
4. Humidity reduction (very important for Ireland with av RH of over 80%
5. Heat recovery.
6. Can deliver heat through the ventilation system for near passive spec. removing the need for radiators, you can just put some underfloor in tiles areas and maybe a couple of towel rails and the MHRV will distribute
7. can run at multiple speeds depending on occupancy c02 meters.
8. Feels fresh inside.
9. Cost neutral over 4 years.
10. New part F ventilation requirement means 4% bigger hole in wall vents.
11. can halve space heating bills.
12. adds future proof value to house, even if you just install the ducts now, as if you sell it in ten years, the market will want MHRV.
13. Improves BER asset rating if combined with airtighness below 3 ach@50pa
cons.
1. Cant use open fire must use room sealed stove( why would you use an open fire)
2. Filters need cleaning twice a year (suppose you cant do that with your lungs0
3. perception of risk of mould growth in ductwork. This is due to early installers using flexi's for main ducts instead of metal ducts. However generally if ducts are insulated where fresh air is brought in, mould cannot happen because of reduced humidity.
4. dosent work with our speculator based construction methods of build it cheap and feck off. Therefore hole in the wall vents seem more economical at build stage when occupancy costs are ignored.
5. Most self builders use substandard designers and builders who dont understand that energy efficiency can be incorporated at zero cost with a little bit of planning. For bolla sake, lettin engineers design houses! madness. Moreover to be a builder in Ireland all you need is a Navarra and a mobile phone, a plumber needs a four year aprenticeship and his papers.
6. Only makes sence to homebuilders as part of an integrated systems approach to building comfort. Dosent work for eejits who throw up a building reg standard house with chimneys and vents. 'oh i've only got €240k to build my one off, that means I can only go with cavity with kingspan, chimney, wall vent, massive oil boiler, 3000 square foot, with corridors everywhere. maybe stick on a ecobling heat pump to an inefficient house.' The problem is our designers and builders havent a clue. The people building efficient passive or near passive houses are self builders who have gone and done the research themselves and realised that spending on insulation and airtightness instead makes sence.
Building a new house now as well and have been looking at alternatives to oil. Seems to be a lot of talk about this Air source Heat Pump. It's a bit like the Geotherm but less complicated as it doesn't require any ground work. Expensive enough to put in (Although there's a £1700 grant at the minute). Just wondering if anyone has experience of them or knows much about them?
I've a gas fire in the living room which is a waste of space. Nice to look at but about as useful as a chocolate teapot. Was thinking about ripping it out and installing a solid fuel stove. Was also thinking about possibly linking this into the tank in the hot press to generate hot water and maybe driving a few radiators to give the oil burner less work to do.
Anyone experience of doing this and how'd you go about it?
A range of factors with this one:
Bungalow or two storey
sq.ft of house
How far is your HP from the stove
How many rads
Is you current plumbing a pressurised system or gravity feed
Age of house
My advice is get a dam good plumber and go from there. This is something you dont want to mess about with
Quote from: Hereiam on August 04, 2015, 11:27:15 PM
A range of factors with this one:
Bungalow or two storey
sq.ft of house
How far is your HP from the stove
How many rads
Is you current plumbing a pressurised system or gravity feed
Age of house
My advice is get a dam good plumber and go from there. This is something you dont want to mess about with
In the north its a no no to have a stove with a back boiler into a pressurised system, it has to be an open vented system to dissipate excess heat as you just can't turn off a stove. There is a way around it with a neutraliser link up system;
http://www.dunsleyheat.co.uk/neutralizer.html (http://www.dunsleyheat.co.uk/neutralizer.html)
As for the rads, your stove will have a KW rating to room and to water and some will tell you the number of rads approximately, but from my experience a stove with a back boiler doesn't throw the same heat out into the room as you'd hope. To compensate a bit for this, keep as much of the flue exposed as possible as there's some heat comes off it.
Quote from: johnneycool on August 05, 2015, 08:36:21 AM
Quote from: Hereiam on August 04, 2015, 11:27:15 PM
A range of factors with this one:
Bungalow or two storey
sq.ft of house
How far is your HP from the stove
How many rads
Is you current plumbing a pressurised system or gravity feed
Age of house
My advice is get a dam good plumber and go from there. This is something you dont want to mess about with
In the north it's a no no to have a stove with a back boiler into a pressurised system, it has to be an open vented system to dissipate excess heat as you just can't turn off a stove. There is a way around it with a neutraliser link up system;
http://www.dunsleyheat.co.uk/neutralizer.html (http://www.dunsleyheat.co.uk/neutralizer.html)
As for the rads, your stove will have a KW rating to room and to water and some will tell you the number of rads approximately, but from my experience a stove with a back boiler doesn't throw the same heat out into the room as you'd hope. To compensate a bit for this, keep as much of the flue exposed as possible as there's some heat comes off it.
Cheers lads.
House is two storied and about 2200sq ft.
HP is on 1st floor at opposite side of the house from the fireplace.
It's a pressurised system and have oil burner driving abou 11/12 radiators of varying sizes of it.
Have heard that before about back boilers and pressurised systems but thought there was some kind of release value could be fitted to this to manage that. Have also read that about the heat not being the same with the back boiler as the heat that would normally be thrown out is now being used to heat water. Want to make sure I know all the facts before jumping into anything.
A bit off topic but looking for some advice with re-hanging a curtain rail in a fairly old house. The plaster where it was up is very bad, crumbling away in parts and it came down a few weeks back. Am I best to just get decent-sized rawl plugs and locate it a few inches to the side if where it was?
Or should I get a length of timber and put it up above the window and put the curtain rail into that (I presume there's a name for that piece of wood)? The idea being that doing this will spread the load of the curtain rail / curtains
Thanks
Probably better to put up the timber if the walls are old and flaking. It's called curtain rail and I'd 3 x1 clean timber. Put it on with hammer fixings and then fix the rail out through this
The length of timber is called Curtain Rail as well.
Might be better to buy Chemical Anchors though - depends how bad the wall is
Thanks lads
Bit of a ' how long is a piece of string' one I know, but what is the ball park figure at the minute per sq ft for building in the north. standard builders finish. story & a half.
For basic external finishes you would be looking at £60-70/sq.ft
Quote from: Hereiam on September 16, 2015, 10:12:00 AM
For basic external finishes you would be looking at £60-70/sq.ft
Seems a bit expensive...You thinking of the Ritz?. I would have said £45 - £50
Quote from: illdecide on September 16, 2015, 12:49:02 PM
Quote from: Hereiam on September 16, 2015, 10:12:00 AM
For basic external finishes you would be looking at £60-70/sq.ft
Seems a bit expensive...You thinking of the Ritz?. I would have said £45 - £50
your hired :P
That's more the answer I was expecting / hoping for.
Does 'builders finish' always mean the same thing to all contractors or does it differ?
illdecide u will do well to get it in for that let me tell you.
Quote from: Hereiam on September 16, 2015, 01:54:59 PM
illdecide u will do well to get it in for that let me tell you.
Ohh i'll get it in alright ;) but enough about that what about the build...
Well £70 def seems high and the £45 would be on the lower scale but i'd def be expecting it for no more than £55. It does of course depend on what spec you want the house and heating systems etc
Quote from: illdecide on September 16, 2015, 02:37:59 PM
Quote from: Hereiam on September 16, 2015, 01:54:59 PM
illdecide u will do well to get it in for that let me tell you.
Ohh i'll get it in alright ;) but enough about that what about the build...
Well £70 def seems high and the £45 would be on the lower scale but i'd def be expecting it for no more than £55. It does of course depend on what spec you want the house and heating systems etc
what stage does 'builders finish' usually get you to?
In my parents' sitting room, they have recessed 12V spotlights (GU5.3 type) and one of them won't work – I'm thinking that the transformer is broken. Is replacing this something I can do myself or is it safer to get a professional to do it?
Quote from: macdanger2 on October 05, 2015, 02:04:22 PM
In my parents' sitting room, they have recessed 12V spotlights (GU5.3 type) and one of them won't work – I'm thinking that the transformer is broken. Is replacing this something I can do myself or is it safer to get a professional to do it?
Anyone??
Quote from: macdanger2 on October 06, 2015, 09:00:52 AM
Quote from: macdanger2 on October 05, 2015, 02:04:22 PM
In my parents' sitting room, they have recessed 12V spotlights (GU5.3 type) and one of them won't work – I'm thinking that the transformer is broken. Is replacing this something I can do myself or is it safer to get a professional to do it?
Anyone??
It depends on your competency around AC mains electrics.
Would you know which circuit breaker to trip to isolate the electrical lighting in that room? Do you know AC colouring scheme for wires, would you know what end of the transformer is what?
If its a yes for all them, then go for it, otherwise call in a spark.
Quote from: johnneycool on October 06, 2015, 02:41:34 PM
Quote from: macdanger2 on October 06, 2015, 09:00:52 AM
Quote from: macdanger2 on October 05, 2015, 02:04:22 PM
In my parents' sitting room, they have recessed 12V spotlights (GU5.3 type) and one of them won't work – I'm thinking that the transformer is broken. Is replacing this something I can do myself or is it safer to get a professional to do it?
Anyone??
It depends on your competency around AC mains electrics.
Would you know which circuit breaker to trip to isolate the electrical lighting in that room? Do you know AC colouring scheme for wires, would you know what end of the transformer is what?
If its a yes for all them, then go for it, otherwise call in a spark.
Yes for all of those Johnny. Was just wondering if there's anything tricky about installing these - sounds like it's pretty straight forward so I'll drive on and do it myself
Moved house 18 months ago across the border. Previous owner said she had the septic tank emptied only a few weeks before we moved in. I think my solicitor actually needed confirmation certificate for this before completion but cant really remember. I now need it emptied but basically doubt very much it was emptied 18 months ago as access to the main tank in buried about 3 foot under the grass! Why? Anybody able to give me any advice on this or how much it should cost to get emptied?. Getting hard to flush the toilets at this stage? Guy said he will empty it for 150 euro. Sounded reasonable to me.;
QuoteBit of a ' how long is a piece of string' one I know, but what is the ball park figure at the minute per sq ft for building in the north. standard builders finish. story & a half.
Built 3 years ago, not with a contractor, subbed it out to different trades and eventually got it completed. When I divide the total build cost to when it's ready to move in, by the square footage, it works out at £63 per sq ft for what I built. That's with the full ground floor with underfloor heating, as well as underfloor in bathroom and ensuite upstairs. Also has a slate roof. Standard block build with concrete slabs on first floor rather than joists.
BTW moving in = kitchen fitted, one bathroom completed, house fully trimmed with doors, skirting, floor coverings in main living areas.
Can anyone recommend someone that can do site inspections for suitability of ground conditions for building?
I'm not sure exactly what needs done, whether its just a case of getting an architect to look at it or is it a structural engineers job?
Have used a company in Belfast a few times called Stratex.
Causeway - North Coast
Hanmar - Larne
GES - Ballybogie
Groundcheck - Muckamore
Stratex - Belfast
LSS - Armagh
The top 4 are the ones we use in work regularly but it depends what part of the country you're in...
Didn't know were else to put this. I've a patio just finished, and was was wondering what is the best way to prevent weeds coming up between the flags? I have heard patio sealer can be quite expensive and a bit of a con? Any recommendations or advice? Preferably not me going round pulling weeds every month! :D
Get urself a wee hand held sprayer and some roundup.
Quote from: illdecide on October 13, 2015, 03:05:04 PM
Causeway - North Coast
Hanmar - Larne
GES - Ballybogie
Groundcheck - Muckamore
Stratex - Belfast
LSS - Armagh
The top 4 are the ones we use in work regularly but it depends what part of the country you're in...
What sort of cost are you looking at illdecide for trial pit and report?
House has an external render finish (Weber) and ive only noticed a certain section starting to turn slightly green. Its a corner of the house that gets least sunlight year round.
The nearest trees and greenery are about 40m away so nothing in direct contact that way.
Any thoughts on how to treat it?
Quote from: Brick Tamlin on November 13, 2015, 11:56:52 AM
House has an external render finish (Weber) and ive only noticed a certain section starting to turn slightly green. Its a corner of the house that gets least sunlight year round.
The nearest trees and greenery are about 40m away so nothing in direct contact that way.
Any thoughts on how to treat it?
Chlorus (Hydrochloric Acid), watered down to approx 5 to 1 sprayed on is the job.
Dairy Farmers use it for washing out their milking systems, so any farm sales type place will have it.
What JC says is the job. Dont do it on a windy day.
Is that the same stuff as red label.
Quote from: blewuporstuffed on November 13, 2015, 11:40:55 AM
Quote from: illdecide on October 13, 2015, 03:05:04 PM
Causeway - North Coast
Hanmar - Larne
GES - Ballybogie
Groundcheck - Muckamore
Stratex - Belfast
LSS - Armagh
The top 4 are the ones we use in work regularly but it depends what part of the country you're in...
What sort of cost are you looking at illdecide for trial pit and report?
Say about £60 per trial pit and about £100 for a report, there would be a small mobilization cost of about £100-£150. So a site with 6-7 trial pits would prob cost in or around £600
Quote from: illdecide on November 13, 2015, 02:18:12 PM
Quote from: blewuporstuffed on November 13, 2015, 11:40:55 AM
Quote from: illdecide on October 13, 2015, 03:05:04 PM
Causeway - North Coast
Hanmar - Larne
GES - Ballybogie
Groundcheck - Muckamore
Stratex - Belfast
LSS - Armagh
The top 4 are the ones we use in work regularly but it depends what part of the country you're in...
What sort of cost are you looking at illdecide for trial pit and report?
Say about £60 per trial pit and about £100 for a report, there would be a small mobilization cost of about £100-£150. So a site with 6-7 trial pits would prob cost in or around £600
is that including the cost of the digger etc to dig them, or just the engineers fees?
Quote from: blewuporstuffed on November 13, 2015, 02:46:38 PM
Quote from: illdecide on November 13, 2015, 02:18:12 PM
Quote from: blewuporstuffed on November 13, 2015, 11:40:55 AM
Quote from: illdecide on October 13, 2015, 03:05:04 PM
Causeway - North Coast
Hanmar - Larne
GES - Ballybogie
Groundcheck - Muckamore
Stratex - Belfast
LSS - Armagh
The top 4 are the ones we use in work regularly but it depends what part of the country you're in...
What sort of cost are you looking at illdecide for trial pit and report?
Say about £60 per trial pit and about £100 for a report, there would be a small mobilization cost of about £100-£150. So a site with 6-7 trial pits would prob cost in or around £600
is that including the cost of the digger etc to dig them, or just the engineers fees?
Yes Sir...(see bold). I reckon you'd get it a we bit cheaper...sort of went a we bit high but always go worst case then you'll not be shocked when u get your bill
Has anyone installed a mechanical heat recovery system? Any recommendations for suppliers, or tips to ensure that they do a good job?
Also has anyone installed solar hot water or solar PV panels? Similar to the above any recommendations or do's/don'ts?
Thanks
Have been looking at the MVHR. I take it your going for passive spec? There's a number of suppliers for MVHR. Beam do it but I think the best is Homecare villavent. But be sure to check the specs especially if you have asthma/ breathing problems.
Haven't much exposure to Solar but I think it's a fairly slow pay back rate. There might be better options out there. If your in the North have you looked at the Renewable heat incentive NI?
Quote from: wanderer on November 24, 2015, 10:03:12 PM
Has anyone installed a mechanical heat recovery system? Any recommendations for suppliers, or tips to ensure that they do a good job?
Also has anyone installed solar hot water or solar PV panels? Similar to the above any recommendations or do's/don'ts?
Thanks
I put on the solar hot water yolks, £3K for 4sq metres off them and I think they're the dogs danglies.
From May/June on and this year right up to the start of November, didn't burn any oil, I'd all the hot water I needed from the panels and even if you get a sunny day in the winter will lift the ambient temp of the tank (300L) up to 30 plus degrees.
At that rate they should nearly be compulsory
A plumber told me it takes roughly £0.70 of oil to heat the hot water tank. If his sums are correct u would be waiting 20 + years to get your money back alone
Whats the cost effective way to insulate part of a single skin block built garage (creating a separate room) so that it insulates well enough and won't suffer condensation issues? Currently no ceiling (open trusses) in case that's a factor in regard to venting.
Quote from: redzone on November 25, 2015, 05:44:09 PM
A plumber told me it takes roughly £0.70 of oil to heat the hot water tank. If his sums are correct u would be waiting 20 + years to get your money back alone
Oil is still supposedly the most economic heating out there. The key with new houses is insulation and the better the insulation the slower the returns on any renewable investments.
On this topic I have a couple of queries.
1. Insulation. Does anyone have any opinions or data (cost v benefits) regarding cladding the inner wall v using thermal (clinker) blocks and on bead fill v board fill for the cavities?
2. Back boilers. I am fitting OFCH but will have a wood burning stove in the living area. Will I get much cost benefit from having a back boiler fitted or will the increased output required mean I will be carrying wood full time?
Whats the story with laying patio slabs over existing concrete.?
I have decking at the back of my house but have a pain in the nuts keeping it maintained every year and it's also a death trap in wet weather.
I want to rip the whole thing up and lay patio slabs. Underneath the decking is a concrete path that you would have around any semi d house.
Will I need to rip up the concrete or can I lay directly onto them with the appropriate paving sand underneath obviously.
Would I need to drill holes into the concrete for drainage or would the sand be enough to soak it up and the rest would drain off into the garden?
Quote from: laoislad on February 03, 2016, 02:58:20 PM
Whats the story with laying patio slabs over existing concrete.?
I have decking at the back of my house but have a pain in the nuts keeping it maintained every year and it's also a death trap in wet weather.
I want to rip the whole thing up and lay patio slabs. Underneath the decking is a concrete path that you would have around any semi d house.
Will I need to rip up the concrete or can I lay directly onto them with the appropriate paving sand underneath obviously.
Would I need to drill holes into the concrete for drainage or would the sand be enough to soak it up and the rest would drain off into the garden?
When you say decking, is it some type of treated lumber?
If so you can look for this product
http://www.trex.com/build-your-deck/diy/resurface/
If you tear off the decking look at this product for the concrete to top it, it provides drainage and is slip resistant. I am meeting with their National Sales Manager in the morning to bring this product on for the company I work for. I'll ask if there is anyone in Ireland/UK as a installer.
http://www.porouspaveinc.com/
Quote from: DrinkingHarp on February 04, 2016, 02:27:54 AM
Quote from: laoislad on February 03, 2016, 02:58:20 PM
Whats the story with laying patio slabs over existing concrete.?
I have decking at the back of my house but have a pain in the nuts keeping it maintained every year and it's also a death trap in wet weather.
I want to rip the whole thing up and lay patio slabs. Underneath the decking is a concrete path that you would have around any semi d house.
Will I need to rip up the concrete or can I lay directly onto them with the appropriate paving sand underneath obviously.
Would I need to drill holes into the concrete for drainage or would the sand be enough to soak it up and the rest would drain off into the garden?
When you say decking, is it some type of treated lumber?
If so you can look for this product
http://www.trex.com/build-your-deck/diy/resurface/
If you tear off the decking look at this product for the concrete to top it, it provides drainage and is slip resistant. I am meeting with their National Sales Manager in the morning to bring this product on for the company I work for. I'll ask if there is anyone in Ireland/UK as a installer.
http://www.porouspaveinc.com/
No dealer/installers in Ireland or the UK for Porous Pave yet, they are looking for a company or an individual in the area so if anyone has an entrepeneur background might be worth looking at.
QuoteWhats the story with laying patio slabs over existing concrete.?
I have decking at the back of my house but have a pain in the nuts keeping it maintained every year and it's also a death trap in wet weather.
I want to rip the whole thing up and lay patio slabs. Underneath the decking is a concrete path that you would have around any semi d house.
Will I need to rip up the concrete or can I lay directly onto them with the appropriate paving sand underneath obviously.
Would I need to drill holes into the concrete for drainage or would the sand be enough to soak it up and the rest would drain off into the garden?
If it's just a path you should have no issue. Most surface water will run off the patio anyway and whatever seeps through will make it's way to wherever it's currently running off the path to. Drilling holes wouldn't make much difference as they'd soon silt up and the water will find an easier path down.
Quote from: laoislad on February 03, 2016, 02:58:20 PM
Whats the story with laying patio slabs over existing concrete.?
I have decking at the back of my house but have a pain in the nuts keeping it maintained every year and it's also a death trap in wet weather.
I want to rip the whole thing up and lay patio slabs. Underneath the decking is a concrete path that you would have around any semi d house.
Will I need to rip up the concrete or can I lay directly onto them with the appropriate paving sand underneath obviously.
Would I need to drill holes into the concrete for drainage or would the sand be enough to soak it up and the rest would drain off into the garden?
Where does/did the water go before on your path? Firstly your concrete path is fine to lay pavers onto, these are normally laid with a bedding fine sand but in this case i'd use a weak sand cement mix for bedding. Using normal sand the water will filter down to the concrete path and will want to go somewhere and eventually it will take the sand particles with it to wherever it goes and then you will get some of your pavers dropping or uneven to look at (of course this will not happen for quite a while). If you were really fussy like me you'd check the path for levels and find it's low point and put a we aqua channel at the low point and connect it into a drain (storm only) this sounds like a lot of work but is very easy to do.
Quote from: theskull1 on November 26, 2015, 04:18:01 PM
Whats the cost effective way to insulate part of a single skin block built garage (creating a separate room) so that it insulates well enough and won't suffer condensation issues? Currently no ceiling (open trusses) in case that's a factor in regard to venting.
I'd say you'd have to batten it out first with lathes to allow the block to breathe and then fix your insulation to that, or use the insulated plasterboard for a more cultured finish.
Quote from: LeoMc on November 27, 2015, 11:55:24 AM
Quote from: redzone on November 25, 2015, 05:44:09 PM
A plumber told me it takes roughly £0.70 of oil to heat the hot water tank. If his sums are correct u would be waiting 20 + years to get your money back alone
Oil is still supposedly the most economic heating out there. The key with new houses is insulation and the better the insulation the slower the returns on any renewable investments.
On this topic I have a couple of queries.
1. Insulation. Does anyone have any opinions or data (cost v benefits) regarding cladding the inner wall v using thermal (clinker) blocks and on bead fill v board fill for the cavities?
Don't know much about clinkers, but on the board fill vrs bonded bead I was told that to get the same insulation rating as the 70mm foil backed boards I'd need to open the cavity to 150mm and fill it with bonded bead. A lot of the issues with either type of insulation is how well its fitted and installed. My brickies hated the 70mm foil backed stuff, but I did most of the cutting around sills and heads to make sure it wasn't just bucked in with big gaps.
Quote from: LeoMc on November 27, 2015, 11:55:24 AM
2. Back boilers. I am fitting OFCH but will have a wood burning stove in the living area. Will I get much cost benefit from having a back boiler fitted or will the increased output required mean I will be carrying wood full time?
Depends on the size of the room. I've a biggish stove with a back boiler which heats the radiators in the bedrooms (6 rads all in) and it doesn't throw anywhere near as much heat out into the room as the DA in laws which is smaller but no back boiler. Its a balancing act.
Here's the thing lads and i know women are to blame for 90% of it but i think as a nation we go over the top about the heat in our homes, let be honest we get about 4 weeks of the year where it is really cold and we all have word burning stoves as well as our heating systems (oil or gas burners) and i think it uncalled for TBH. If in the "cold spell" turn your heating on for a while longer but we're all listening to them poxy women too much and our homes are like furnaces.
Quote from: illdecide on February 09, 2016, 10:25:19 AM
Here's the thing lads and i know women are to blame for 90% of it but i think as a nation we go over the top about the heat in our homes, let be honest we get about 4 weeks of the year where it is really cold and we all have word burning stoves as well as our heating systems (oil or gas burners) and i think it uncalled for TBH. If in the "cold spell" turn your heating on for a while longer but we're all listening to them poxy women too much and our homes are like furnaces.
This made me laugh, so bloody true :)
Quote from: illdecide on February 09, 2016, 10:25:19 AM
Here's the thing lads and i know women are to blame for 90% of it but i think as a nation we go over the top about the heat in our homes, let be honest we get about 4 weeks of the year where it is really cold and we all have word burning stoves as well as our heating systems (oil or gas burners) and i think it uncalled for TBH. If in the "cold spell" turn your heating on for a while longer but we're all listening to them poxy women too much and our homes are like furnaces.
+1000
Yep, remember as a kid at times waking up in the morning in winter time with ice on the inside of the windows.
Member of a generation where the parents watched the heating like a hawk.
FFs if i go into my Mums house and put her heating on she grumbles..."i'll have no oil left, that heatings never off...lol". For a laugh i'll turn her stat up to 22 and then next time i go back into house it's back down to 20.5.
I've tried explaining about the benefits of putting the heating on for 3-4 hours instead of boosting it for an hour at a time but she'll not listen...Old School.
Quote from: illdecide on February 09, 2016, 11:23:44 AM
FFs if i go into my Mums house and put her heating on she grumbles..."i'll have no oil left, that heatings never off...lol". For a laugh i'll turn her stat up to 22 and then next time i go back into house it's back down to 20.5.
I've tried explaining about the benefits of putting the heating on for 3-4 hours instead of boosting it for an hour at a time but she'll not listen...Old School.
We have UFH downstairs and she only boosts it for an hour. I have been telling her for years an hour on UFH is just burning oil. Blast it for 3 hours and you'll get heat off the slab for hours. Never listens!
So what are the benefits of having the heat on for 3-4 hours rather than boosting it for an hour?
Ehhhhh, asking for a friend...
Quote from: The Gs Man on February 09, 2016, 02:03:50 PM
So what are the benefits of having the heat on for 3-4 hours rather than boosting it for an hour?
Ehhhhh, asking for a friend...
Okay...Your boiler is like an oven that heats the surrounding water...when it gets to a certain temperature it will knock itself off, the boiler will then fire up again as soon as the temp starts to drop. When you boost for an hour your boiler will cool way down again so when you decide to fire it up again it's cold and will stay on for ages, if you had kept it on for say 3 hours the boiler will only fire up for a few minutes and know itself off.
Think of it like a kettle, when you boil the water from cold it will take 5 mins but if has just been boiled 5 mins ago and you hit the button on the kettle it will only take 30 sec to boil again as the water is already hot. So for the boiler you can prob enjoy 3 hours of heat for the price of 2no hourly boosts plus you can control it better if you turn the stats down in your house to 20-21 this will also help
Quote from: Tony Baloney on February 09, 2016, 01:39:04 PM
Quote from: illdecide on February 09, 2016, 11:23:44 AM
FFs if i go into my Mums house and put her heating on she grumbles..."i'll have no oil left, that heatings never off...lol". For a laugh i'll turn her stat up to 22 and then next time i go back into house it's back down to 20.5.
I've tried explaining about the benefits of putting the heating on for 3-4 hours instead of boosting it for an hour at a time but she'll not listen...Old School.
We have UFH downstairs and she only boosts it for an hour. I have been telling her for years an hour on UFH is just burning oil. Blast it for 3 hours and you'll get heat off the slab for hours. Never listens!
Ohh and i'm no expert in under ground heating but i was under the impression that had to be on constant to get the benefit of it (obviously not the summer months)
Quote from: illdecide on February 09, 2016, 02:46:00 PM
Quote from: Tony Baloney on February 09, 2016, 01:39:04 PM
Quote from: illdecide on February 09, 2016, 11:23:44 AM
FFs if i go into my Mums house and put her heating on she grumbles..."i'll have no oil left, that heatings never off...lol". For a laugh i'll turn her stat up to 22 and then next time i go back into house it's back down to 20.5.
I've tried explaining about the benefits of putting the heating on for 3-4 hours instead of boosting it for an hour at a time but she'll not listen...Old School.
We have UFH downstairs and she only boosts it for an hour. I have been telling her for years an hour on UFH is just burning oil. Blast it for 3 hours and you'll get heat off the slab for hours. Never listens!
Ohh and i'm no expert in under ground heating but i was under the impression that had to be on constant to get the benefit of it (obviously not the summer months)
UFH is thermostatically controlled, so as much as its on all the time, the boiler will fire on and off depending on the readings from the thermostats at each particular zone, the boiler isn't firing solidly the whole time.
Quote from: illdecide on February 09, 2016, 02:44:09 PM
Quote from: The Gs Man on February 09, 2016, 02:03:50 PM
So what are the benefits of having the heat on for 3-4 hours rather than boosting it for an hour?
Ehhhhh, asking for a friend...
Okay...Your boiler is like an oven that heats the surrounding water...when it gets to a certain temperature it will knock itself off, the boiler will then fire up again as soon as the temp starts to drop. When you boost for an hour your boiler will cool way down again so when you decide to fire it up again it's cold and will stay on for ages, if you had kept it on for say 3 hours the boiler will only fire up for a few minutes and know itself off.
Think of it like a kettle, when you boil the water from cold it will take 5 mins but if has just been boiled 5 mins ago and you hit the button on the kettle it will only take 30 sec to boil again as the water is already hot. So for the boiler you can prob enjoy 3 hours of heat for the price of 2no hourly boosts plus you can control it better if you turn the stats down in your house to 20-21 this will also help
Going by that theory - should you leave your heating on constantly? And let the stats do the work at maintaining the temperature and knocking on / off the boiler ?
Quote from: JohnDenver on February 09, 2016, 03:53:45 PM
Quote from: illdecide on February 09, 2016, 02:44:09 PM
Quote from: The Gs Man on February 09, 2016, 02:03:50 PM
So what are the benefits of having the heat on for 3-4 hours rather than boosting it for an hour?
Ehhhhh, asking for a friend...
Okay...Your boiler is like an oven that heats the surrounding water...when it gets to a certain temperature it will knock itself off, the boiler will then fire up again as soon as the temp starts to drop. When you boost for an hour your boiler will cool way down again so when you decide to fire it up again it's cold and will stay on for ages, if you had kept it on for say 3 hours the boiler will only fire up for a few minutes and know itself off.
Think of it like a kettle, when you boil the water from cold it will take 5 mins but if has just been boiled 5 mins ago and you hit the button on the kettle it will only take 30 sec to boil again as the water is already hot. So for the boiler you can prob enjoy 3 hours of heat for the price of 2no hourly boosts plus you can control it better if you turn the stats down in your house to 20-21 this will also help
Going by that theory - should you leave your heating on constantly? And let the stats do the work at maintaining the temperature and knocking on / off the boiler ?
I have started doing that lately as well and it keeps the house at a far more even comfortable temperature. I turned the thermostat way down and leave the heating on all the time.
interesting chat on thermostats. The interesting thing here is that this his one of the areas where tech can save you a clean fortune. there are a few smart thermostats on sale, nest is probably the best branded and owned by google, but there are now a few good ones, and they save you a big chunk on the heating bills. Well worth a look
Quote from: heganboy on February 09, 2016, 04:24:07 PM
interesting chat on thermostats. The interesting thing here is that this his one of the areas where tech can save you a clean fortune. there are a few smart thermostats on sale, nest is probably the best branded and owned by google, but there are now a few good ones, and they save you a big chunk on the heating bills. Well worth a look
Pardon the ignorance, but what makes a thermostat smart?
Quote from: johnneycool on February 09, 2016, 03:44:33 PM
Quote from: illdecide on February 09, 2016, 02:46:00 PM
Quote from: Tony Baloney on February 09, 2016, 01:39:04 PM
Quote from: illdecide on February 09, 2016, 11:23:44 AM
FFs if i go into my Mums house and put her heating on she grumbles..."i'll have no oil left, that heatings never off...lol". For a laugh i'll turn her stat up to 22 and then next time i go back into house it's back down to 20.5.
I've tried explaining about the benefits of putting the heating on for 3-4 hours instead of boosting it for an hour at a time but she'll not listen...Old School.
We have UFH downstairs and she only boosts it for an hour. I have been telling her for years an hour on UFH is just burning oil. Blast it for 3 hours and you'll get heat off the slab for hours. Never listens!
Ohh and i'm no expert in under ground heating but i was under the impression that had to be on constant to get the benefit of it (obviously not the summer months)
UFH is thermostatically controlled, so as much as its on all the time, the boiler will fire on and off depending on the readings from the thermostats at each particular zone, the boiler isn't firing solidly the whole time.
Yeah obviously Johnney or the above quote wouldn't make sense, I meant it to be on constant but only firing up when it needs too
Quote from: Maguire01 on February 09, 2016, 05:51:59 PM
Quote from: heganboy on February 09, 2016, 04:24:07 PM
interesting chat on thermostats. The interesting thing here is that this his one of the areas where tech can save you a clean fortune. there are a few smart thermostats on sale, nest is probably the best branded and owned by google, but there are now a few good ones, and they save you a big chunk on the heating bills. Well worth a look
Pardon the ignorance, but what makes a thermostat smart?
smart would define any device connected to the internet of things. today they reckon theres about 3 billion devices connected and by 2020 gartner predicts there will be in excess of 20 billion connected devices. from phones, tablets, tvs and the like to thermostats, home lighting, home audio, cars, whole houses.....
Quote from: JohnDenver on February 09, 2016, 03:53:45 PM
Quote from: illdecide on February 09, 2016, 02:44:09 PM
Quote from: The Gs Man on February 09, 2016, 02:03:50 PM
So what are the benefits of having the heat on for 3-4 hours rather than boosting it for an hour?
Ehhhhh, asking for a friend...
Okay...Your boiler is like an oven that heats the surrounding water...when it gets to a certain temperature it will knock itself off, the boiler will then fire up again as soon as the temp starts to drop. When you boost for an hour your boiler will cool way down again so when you decide to fire it up again it's cold and will stay on for ages, if you had kept it on for say 3 hours the boiler will only fire up for a few minutes and know itself off.
Think of it like a kettle, when you boil the water from cold it will take 5 mins but if has just been boiled 5 mins ago and you hit the button on the kettle it will only take 30 sec to boil again as the water is already hot. So for the boiler you can prob enjoy 3 hours of heat for the price of 2no hourly boosts plus you can control it better if you turn the stats down in your house to 20-21 this will also help
Going by that theory - should you leave your heating on constantly? And let the stats do the work at maintaining the temperature and knocking on / off the boiler ?
Depends JD on your circumstances...if you and your other half are out working all day then it doesn't make much sense to heat your house when there's nobody there or for example during the night when you're in your bed but if you or your misses are in all day then yes it if it's cold outside it would make sense to keep heating on and let the stats control it...
Yes, there are new stats out at the min that allows you to control them from say work or wherever you may be using your smart phone or laptop/PC
Quote from: The Iceman on February 09, 2016, 08:05:15 PM
Quote from: Maguire01 on February 09, 2016, 05:51:59 PM
Quote from: heganboy on February 09, 2016, 04:24:07 PM
interesting chat on thermostats. The interesting thing here is that this his one of the areas where tech can save you a clean fortune. there are a few smart thermostats on sale, nest is probably the best branded and owned by google, but there are now a few good ones, and they save you a big chunk on the heating bills. Well worth a look
Pardon the ignorance, but what makes a thermostat smart?
smart would define any device connected to the internet of things. today they reckon theres about 3 billion devices connected and by 2020 gartner predicts there will be in excess of 20 billion connected devices. from phones, tablets, tvs and the like to thermostats, home lighting, home audio, cars, whole houses.....
So what's the advantage with a thermostat, just remote operation?
Quote from: Maguire01 on February 09, 2016, 09:05:08 PM
Quote from: The Iceman on February 09, 2016, 08:05:15 PM
Quote from: Maguire01 on February 09, 2016, 05:51:59 PM
Quote from: heganboy on February 09, 2016, 04:24:07 PM
interesting chat on thermostats. The interesting thing here is that this his one of the areas where tech can save you a clean fortune. there are a few smart thermostats on sale, nest is probably the best branded and owned by google, but there are now a few good ones, and they save you a big chunk on the heating bills. Well worth a look
Pardon the ignorance, but what makes a thermostat smart?
smart would define any device connected to the internet of things. today they reckon theres about 3 billion devices connected and by 2020 gartner predicts there will be in excess of 20 billion connected devices. from phones, tablets, tvs and the like to thermostats, home lighting, home audio, cars, whole houses.....
So what's the advantage with a thermostat, just remote operation?
Yeah...think thats it, never read too much into it tbh
Quote from: Maguire01 on February 09, 2016, 09:05:08 PM
Quote from: The Iceman on February 09, 2016, 08:05:15 PM
Quote from: Maguire01 on February 09, 2016, 05:51:59 PM
Quote from: heganboy on February 09, 2016, 04:24:07 PM
interesting chat on thermostats. The interesting thing here is that this his one of the areas where tech can save you a clean fortune. there are a few smart thermostats on sale, nest is probably the best branded and owned by google, but there are now a few good ones, and they save you a big chunk on the heating bills. Well worth a look
Pardon the ignorance, but what makes a thermostat smart?
smart would define any device connected to the internet of things. today they reckon theres about 3 billion devices connected and by 2020 gartner predicts there will be in excess of 20 billion connected devices. from phones, tablets, tvs and the like to thermostats, home lighting, home audio, cars, whole houses.....
So what's the advantage with a thermostat, just remote operation?
The thing that makes this stat 'smart' is not it's internet connection (which is a feature), but it's supposed ability to 'learn' your behaviour. Ie. If you continually turn your heating off/down when going to work, it will learn this behaviour and do it automatically. If you're always turning your heating up a little over the weekends, or at a certain time of the morning/evening, it will supposedly start to do this automatically. You also have the iPhone control element. Seems a bit gimmicky to me but have 2 mates who have it installed in their houses and they swear by it.
Quote from: illdecide on February 09, 2016, 08:02:22 PM
Quote from: johnneycool on February 09, 2016, 03:44:33 PM
Quote from: illdecide on February 09, 2016, 02:46:00 PM
Quote from: Tony Baloney on February 09, 2016, 01:39:04 PM
Quote from: illdecide on February 09, 2016, 11:23:44 AM
FFs if i go into my Mums house and put her heating on she grumbles..."i'll have no oil left, that heatings never off...lol". For a laugh i'll turn her stat up to 22 and then next time i go back into house it's back down to 20.5.
I've tried explaining about the benefits of putting the heating on for 3-4 hours instead of boosting it for an hour at a time but she'll not listen...Old School.
We have UFH downstairs and she only boosts it for an hour. I have been telling her for years an hour on UFH is just burning oil. Blast it for 3 hours and you'll get heat off the slab for hours. Never listens!
Ohh and i'm no expert in under ground heating but i was under the impression that had to be on constant to get the benefit of it (obviously not the summer months)
UFH is thermostatically controlled, so as much as its on all the time, the boiler will fire on and off depending on the readings from the thermostats at each particular zone, the boiler isn't firing solidly the whole time.
Yeah obviously Johnney or the above quote wouldn't make sense, I meant it to be on constant but only firing up when it needs too
Surprising how many times I've had to explain that to people in my house asking me why the underfloor heating isn't on and the "I thought it was supposed to be on all the time" and it in the month of August.
I have a Rehau system in and whilst its not internet savy, I can still set up different temperatures at different times of the day depending if anyone is in the house or not.
Some of the internet stuff is just gimmicky.
Quote from: illdecide on February 09, 2016, 02:44:09 PM
Quote from: The Gs Man on February 09, 2016, 02:03:50 PM
So what are the benefits of having the heat on for 3-4 hours rather than boosting it for an hour?
Ehhhhh, asking for a friend...
Okay...Your boiler is like an oven that heats the surrounding water...when it gets to a certain temperature it will knock itself off, the boiler will then fire up again as soon as the temp starts to drop. When you boost for an hour your boiler will cool way down again so when you decide to fire it up again it's cold and will stay on for ages, if you had kept it on for say 3 hours the boiler will only fire up for a few minutes and know itself off.
Think of it like a kettle, when you boil the water from cold it will take 5 mins but if has just been boiled 5 mins ago and you hit the button on the kettle it will only take 30 sec to boil again as the water is already hot. So for the boiler you can prob enjoy 3 hours of heat for the price of 2no hourly boosts plus you can control it better if you turn the stats down in your house to 20-21 this will also help
I know damn all about plumbing / heating but is the above correct??
From a heat transfer point of view, I would have thought that the fact that hotter water cools faster would mean that it's not correct. For example, say your system heats the water to 70, then switches off until it hits 60 before going backon again . Say it takes 10 minutes to cool from 70-60, 11 minutes to cool from 60-50, 12 minutes from 50-40, etc. Now consider a 4h period where you can either leave it on for X hours continuously or on for the first and third hour only - whatever X would need to be to give you a comparable amount of heat. I would have thought that the fact that leaving it on continuously means that your cooling always happens in the "fastest" zone would mean you use more energy whereas when you let it cool down, the rate of cooling decreases so you should use less.
Is there something I'm missing there?
Quote from: macdanger2 on February 10, 2016, 09:34:12 AM
Quote from: illdecide on February 09, 2016, 02:44:09 PM
Quote from: The Gs Man on February 09, 2016, 02:03:50 PM
So what are the benefits of having the heat on for 3-4 hours rather than boosting it for an hour?
Ehhhhh, asking for a friend...
Okay...Your boiler is like an oven that heats the surrounding water...when it gets to a certain temperature it will knock itself off, the boiler will then fire up again as soon as the temp starts to drop. When you boost for an hour your boiler will cool way down again so when you decide to fire it up again it's cold and will stay on for ages, if you had kept it on for say 3 hours the boiler will only fire up for a few minutes and know itself off.
Think of it like a kettle, when you boil the water from cold it will take 5 mins but if has just been boiled 5 mins ago and you hit the button on the kettle it will only take 30 sec to boil again as the water is already hot. So for the boiler you can prob enjoy 3 hours of heat for the price of 2no hourly boosts plus you can control it better if you turn the stats down in your house to 20-21 this will also help
I know damn all about plumbing / heating but is the above correct??
From a heat transfer point of view, I would have thought that the fact that hotter water cools faster would mean that it's not correct. For example, say your system heats the water to 70, then switches off until it hits 60 before going backon again . Say it takes 10 minutes to cool from 70-60, 11 minutes to cool from 60-50, 12 minutes from 50-40, etc. Now consider a 4h period where you can either leave it on for X hours continuously or on for the first and third hour only - whatever X would need to be to give you a comparable amount of heat. I would have thought that the fact that leaving it on continuously means that your cooling always happens in the "fastest" zone would mean you use more energy whereas when you let it cool down, the rate of cooling decreases so you should use less.
Is there something I'm missing there?
I think so...you forgot when it's on it's only on for 1-2 mins before turning itself off again as it's quickly back up to it's temperature
But it takes essentially the exact same amount of energy to heat water by 1C 15 times as it does to heat the water by 15C once. But it will lose the 15 X 1C in a shorter time than it will lose 1 X 15C
Quote from: macdanger2 on February 10, 2016, 10:10:38 AM
But it takes essentially the exact same amount of energy to heat water by 1C 15 times as it does to heat the water by 15C once. But it will lose the 15 X 1C in a shorter time than it will lose 1 X 15C
Well then in that theory..heat your boiler up to temp, then turn burner off but keep water circulation pump on and it will still circulate the warm water for you...Sorted...
This is just trying to be helpful to some people and i have spoken with Warmflow Heating Engineers regarding this and i'm only trying to explain what they told me, they're the heating experts so i guess they know more than me so i can't put up a reasonable argument against your formula for heat loss. I just fix the dam things when they break and service them when instructed to do so.
Quote from: illdecide on February 10, 2016, 10:33:58 AM
Quote from: macdanger2 on February 10, 2016, 10:10:38 AM
But it takes essentially the exact same amount of energy to heat water by 1C 15 times as it does to heat the water by 15C once. But it will lose the 15 X 1C in a shorter time than it will lose 1 X 15C
Well then in that theory..heat your boiler up to temp, then turn burner off but keep water circulation pump on and it will still circulate the warm water for you...Sorted...
This is just trying to be helpful to some people and i have spoken with Warmflow Heating Engineers regarding this and i'm only trying to explain what they told me, they're the heating experts so i guess they know more than me so i can't put up a reasonable argument against your formula for heat loss. I just fix the dam things when they break and service them when instructed to do so.
It is like the old question about tea cooling quicker without the milk in it due to the greater temp differential.
For heating the water there should be no difference in approaches but the rate of heat loss will reduce as the water differential reduces.
Water is a funny auld substance
Breaks so many of the rules of chemistry
Quote from: illdecide on February 10, 2016, 10:33:58 AM
Quote from: macdanger2 on February 10, 2016, 10:10:38 AM
But it takes essentially the exact same amount of energy to heat water by 1C 15 times as it does to heat the water by 15C once. But it will lose the 15 X 1C in a shorter time than it will lose 1 X 15C
Well then in that theory..heat your boiler up to temp, then turn burner off but keep water circulation pump on and it will still circulate the warm water for you...Sorted...
This is just trying to be helpful to some people and i have spoken with Warmflow Heating Engineers regarding this and i'm only trying to explain what they told me, they're the heating experts so i guess they know more than me so i can't put up a reasonable argument against your formula for heat loss. I just fix the dam things when they break and service them when instructed to do so.
I wasn't trying to be argumentative. I actually changed the heating yesterday from intermittent to "on" for an extended period as you suggested but then I was thinking about it afterwards and wondering if it was right or not.
Actually, maybe the bit about the water circulation pump is what makes the difference - does the pump only run when the heating is on or how does that work?
It could be that by using intermittent heating, most of the cooling of the water happens in the tank (and as such is essentially wasted heat) whereas with leaving it on for an extended period, the water cools by losing heat to the rooms in your house since the pump is running all the time.
Quote from: macdanger2 on February 10, 2016, 06:03:45 PM
Actually, maybe the bit about the water circulation pump is what makes the difference - does the pump only run when the heating is on or how does that work?
It could be that by using intermittent heating, most of the cooling of the water happens in the tank (and as such is essentially wasted heat) whereas with leaving it on for an extended period, the water cools by losing heat to the rooms in your house since the pump is running all the time.
Normally the pumps are wired up in the boiler house and you will have two switches there, one for the water pump and one for the burner. If it's wired correctly you will need the heating on from the time clock to turn on water pump but dunno if you could be bothered going out to boiler house to manually turn off the switch for the burner...i know i wouldn't.
Lads the oil is very cheap at the min...just whack it on and enjoy the extra bit of heat and your wife/partner will love you for it ;D
Looking to get a bit of tarmac around the drive. Tyrone the location.
640 sq.m the area. Looking quotes for Asphalt and Bitumen. Have a couple in but they vary wildly. Also need a bit of ground work done before anything put down. I already have the kerbing done.
Any contacts out there? Average price per Sq.M?
I read in passive building Ireland that some fella built a 4 bed passive house for 800 euro per square metre. Costs per annum 15 eur. And on RTE someone said Irish people have v low expectations of houses. So many are so cold
Quote from: seafoid on February 12, 2016, 02:28:28 PM
I read in passive building Ireland that some fella built a 4 bed passive house for 800 euro per square metre. Costs per annum 15 eur. And on RTE someone said Irish people have v low expectations of houses. So many are so cold
It would want to be cheap to run!!
Quote from: seafoid on February 12, 2016, 02:28:28 PM
I read in passive building Ireland that some fella built a 4 bed passive house for 800 euro per square metre. Costs per annum 15 eur. And on RTE someone said Irish people have v low expectations of houses. So many are so cold
Do you have a link to the passive building Ireland article?
Quote from: blewuporstuffed on February 12, 2016, 02:50:30 PM
Quote from: seafoid on February 12, 2016, 02:28:28 PM
I read in passive building Ireland that some fella built a 4 bed passive house for 800 euro per square metre. Costs per annum 15 eur. And on RTE someone said Irish people have v low expectations of houses. So many are so cold
Do you have a link to the passive building Ireland article?
unfortunately not. I read it in easons.
Quote from: trueblue1234 on February 12, 2016, 02:49:42 PM
Quote from: seafoid on February 12, 2016, 02:28:28 PM
I read in passive building Ireland that some fella built a 4 bed passive house for 800 euro per square metre. Costs per annum 15 eur. And on RTE someone said Irish people have v low expectations of houses. So many are so cold
It would want to be cheap to run!!
how much is a crap house in Dublin? 800 psm is 120k for 150sq m
Renewable Heat incentives done away with in NI. ☹️ We're only after changing the plans to include a heat pump. RHI has been over subscribed. 🙄
Quote from: WaterBoy on March 30, 2015, 09:21:33 AM
Quote from: North Man on March 12, 2015, 10:18:39 PM
Obtained planning permission for a new house.
Considering a log burner for the heating with the renewable heat incentive now available in the North.
Have anyone any opinion on same, or what other form of heating system would be recommended.
Same stage as yourself North Man and considering a wood pellet burner. The proposed house is story and a half, 2500 sq ft. I sent a copy of my plans to a Renewable Energy company and they gave me a quote of around £5500 for the burner including installation and labour. They done a calculation and estimate that I would get around £900 a year back through RHI for 7 years, plus you get a payment of £2,500 through RHI when the boiler is commissioned. You would need a garage/shed to house the burner, so if you weren't planning on building one with the house you would have to factor that into the cost as well.
If the RHI calculations I was given are near the mark it seems to make sense financially, and you would think that even after 7 years when the RHI payments stop that you would still be saving as wood pellets are likely to be cheaper than oil, although there isn't much difference in price between the two at the minute.
The main concern I have is the operation of the burner itself, there is a bit more maintenance in them than an oil burner as you have to load them with Bags of pellets and clean them regularly (empty the ash). That wouldn't be a big deal but from looking online some people were complaining that they had constant issues with the burner and as they aren't as common as oil burners it can cost a fortune to get someone to repair them http://blog.greenwisebusiness.co.uk/2013/04/10-things-your-installer-wont-tell-you-before-you-purchase-a-biomass-boiler/
So I guess I'm asking the same question, does anybody have any experience of wood pellet burners or know anybody who has one and would be able to advise on whether they are worth it?
Saw the ad for Grants wood pellet burners talking about up to £20,000 of RHI payments over 7 years. Started to google and came across that same blog.
Does anyone have more recent experiences of wood pellet boilers? I have to admit I never even considered them or spent any time researching them.
The RHI is going this month. It's oversubscribed already so they're pulling the plug. Grants and repayments are going with it.
I built the house 4 yrs ago and put in a wood burning stove primarily with this grant in mind.
Due my first annual payment of 7 next month.
E-mailed them last week asking for clarification on this and I was told that because im already in the system that il receive the annual payments as agreed.
BTW the stove is a great job.
It seems to me that most houses in Ireland are poor quality. I wouldn't pay 300K for OFCH. Dublin might be the worst.
Passive housing is the way to go
Quote from: seafoid on February 17, 2016, 09:29:04 AM
It seems to me that most houses in Ireland are poor quality. I wouldn't pay 300K for OFCH. Dublin might be the worst.
Passive housing is the way to go
I agree that many houses are poor quality although I think the cost of building a fully certified passive house is so much greater than a well insulated house that the cost negates the point of doing it. Was told this by an environmental design engineer.
Quote from: johnneycool on February 21, 2012, 12:10:49 PM
I put the underfloor heating into any room which was going to be either tiled or have wood flooring fitted, i.e. bathrooms, kitchen, hall etc and i like the even heat better than radiators which I still have upstairs in the bedrooms and landing area
I have 75mm of insulation below the underfloor and only 50mm of a non concrete based screed so you don't have to wait as long as you would with 100mm of concrete based screed.
I also have a solid fuel stove linked into the normal oil fired heating system as well as solar panels heating the hot water.
The solar panel is a good job as i rarely burn any oil from about May till late september.
I also put 75mm foil backed cavity insulation in all the walls and that helps no end.
Insulate as much as your budget will allow you as its money saved in the long run.
Can't see the end of the feckin line on this new board!!
Anyone got any thoughts on this? There seems to be a great saving in time but how does the costs of a liquid screed floor compare with the traditional concrete?
I think the liquid screed is more expensive than concrete but I don't know how much by. It heats up quicker, but the other side of that is that it cools down quicker as well. Your head would be wrecked trying to work out which would be best. There's some people who are going for concrete screed downstairs and then liquid screen upstairs (As most people don't want the bedrooms too warm at night).
General quotes I got back for screeds:
Standard Screed: £10 - £11 m2
Liquid Screed: £13.50 - £15 m2
With liquid screed prob need to make sure sub floors are level as you could get hit with extra cost - in part of one room - it ended up 80mm deep - so extra charge of £500 for additional material - I think it was £200 per cubic metre. It was 17 weeks before I was able to start tiling on it - got it tested at the deepest point.
Found tilers are cagey/cautious with liquid screed. Heard some horror stories of tiles lifting after 7/8 months.
Yep you will need to wait on drying out. 1mm/day i have been told to allow. Ideally with the standard sand/cement screed you would never have the heating off, you just let the thermostats do the work but with the liquid screed you can control it like rads i suppose. The problem i find with it is that it heats up to quickly and cools down just as quick. Sand/cement will distribute a more even heat and doesn't cool down as quick. It goes back to lifestyle, if your not in the house much why have the heating running all the time, liquid screed or rads will short this problem.
Quote from: Mhic Easmuint on February 23, 2016, 03:15:05 PM
General quotes I got back for screeds:
Standard Screed: £10 - £11 m2
Liquid Screed: £13.50 - £15 m2
With liquid screed prob need to make sure sub floors are level as you could get hit with extra cost - in part of one room - it ended up 80mm deep - so extra charge of £500 for additional material - I think it was £200 per cubic metre. It was 17 weeks before I was able to start tiling on it - got it tested at the deepest point.
Found tilers are cagey/cautious with liquid screed. Heard some horror stories of tiles lifting after 7/8 months.
The floors need sealed with an acrylic sealant rather than the standard ones. I used the pink Larsen stuff and have had no issues at all either on tiled floors or wooden floors stuck down with Gutoid (or equivalent adhesive).
Builders in general struggle with something that's different than what they know and rather than show their ignorance plough on regardless hence the horror stories.
I bought my liquid screed off RTU in Newtownabbey and they'd informed me of all this stuff at the time.
Quote from: johnneycool on February 23, 2016, 04:04:07 PM
Quote from: Mhic Easmuint on February 23, 2016, 03:15:05 PM
General quotes I got back for screeds:
Standard Screed: £10 - £11 m2
Liquid Screed: £13.50 - £15 m2
With liquid screed prob need to make sure sub floors are level as you could get hit with extra cost - in part of one room - it ended up 80mm deep - so extra charge of £500 for additional material - I think it was £200 per cubic metre. It was 17 weeks before I was able to start tiling on it - got it tested at the deepest point.
Found tilers are cagey/cautious with liquid screed. Heard some horror stories of tiles lifting after 7/8 months.
The floors need sealed with an acrylic sealant rather than the standard ones. I used the pink Larsen stuff and have had no issues at all either on tiled floors or wooden floors stuck down with Gutoid (or equivalent adhesive).
Builders in general struggle with something that's different than what they know and rather than show their ignorance plough on regardless hence the horror stories.
I bought my liquid screed off RTU in Newtownabbey and they'd informed me of all this stuff at the time.
I got my screed from them as well though it was through a floor screed company. RTU said to put down 2 coats of acrylic primer first. Got it tested by them and the pass mark was below 0.5 and it was 0.4 so a pass but the guy still said it might be best left another week with the heat on.
Quote from: Mhic Easmuint on February 24, 2016, 10:03:27 AM
Quote from: johnneycool on February 23, 2016, 04:04:07 PM
Quote from: Mhic Easmuint on February 23, 2016, 03:15:05 PM
General quotes I got back for screeds:
Standard Screed: £10 - £11 m2
Liquid Screed: £13.50 - £15 m2
With liquid screed prob need to make sure sub floors are level as you could get hit with extra cost - in part of one room - it ended up 80mm deep - so extra charge of £500 for additional material - I think it was £200 per cubic metre. It was 17 weeks before I was able to start tiling on it - got it tested at the deepest point.
Found tilers are cagey/cautious with liquid screed. Heard some horror stories of tiles lifting after 7/8 months.
The floors need sealed with an acrylic sealant rather than the standard ones. I used the pink Larsen stuff and have had no issues at all either on tiled floors or wooden floors stuck down with Gutoid (or equivalent adhesive).
Builders in general struggle with something that's different than what they know and rather than show their ignorance plough on regardless hence the horror stories.
I bought my liquid screed off RTU in Newtownabbey and they'd informed me of all this stuff at the time.
I got my screed from them as well though it was through a floor screed company. RTU said to put down 2 coats of acrylic primer first. Got it tested by them and the pass mark was below 0.5 and it was 0.4 so a pass but the guy still said it might be best left another week with the heat on.
Paul Hill perchance?
Quote from: johnneycool on February 24, 2016, 10:17:09 AM
Quote from: Mhic Easmuint on February 24, 2016, 10:03:27 AM
Quote from: johnneycool on February 23, 2016, 04:04:07 PM
Quote from: Mhic Easmuint on February 23, 2016, 03:15:05 PM
General quotes I got back for screeds:
Standard Screed: £10 - £11 m2
Liquid Screed: £13.50 - £15 m2
With liquid screed prob need to make sure sub floors are level as you could get hit with extra cost - in part of one room - it ended up 80mm deep - so extra charge of £500 for additional material - I think it was £200 per cubic metre. It was 17 weeks before I was able to start tiling on it - got it tested at the deepest point.
Found tilers are cagey/cautious with liquid screed. Heard some horror stories of tiles lifting after 7/8 months.
The floors need sealed with an acrylic sealant rather than the standard ones. I used the pink Larsen stuff and have had no issues at all either on tiled floors or wooden floors stuck down with Gutoid (or equivalent adhesive).
Builders in general struggle with something that's different than what they know and rather than show their ignorance plough on regardless hence the horror stories.
I bought my liquid screed off RTU in Newtownabbey and they'd informed me of all this stuff at the time.
I got my screed from them as well though it was through a floor screed company. RTU said to put down 2 coats of acrylic primer first. Got it tested by them and the pass mark was below 0.5 and it was 0.4 so a pass but the guy still said it might be best left another week with the heat on.
Paul Hill perchance?
No A Donnelly Flooring
Quote from: Ulick on March 31, 2012, 12:53:30 AM
Quote from: balladmaker on March 28, 2012, 11:16:23 AM
A question regarding wall mounted TV's. If you wish to keep the Sky box, DVD etc. completely seperate from the TV, say in another room for example, what cables are recommended to run to the TV. Someone who reckon they know about such things advised that, to future proof, I run 2 coax and 3 cat5e or cat6 to any TV point, working on the basis that you can send hdmi signals across cat5e/6 also.
Any advice would be appreciated.
For future proofing, forget about Cat5e, you want to have Cat6. Cat7 is too expensive for the pay-off. You'll definitely get a HDMI signal down Cat6 but not assured down Cat5e. If you are getting your house wired at the moment just run as much as you can as they'll always come in handy in the future if not even for your telly (e.g. alarms, cctv, telephone, home automation). Into our sitting room, I have four runs of Cat6 (telly plugs into one for internet widgets, two and three run back to home server for HD video over IP on server, four is used for remote control of server and satellite box in the garage). Also have a four Coax runs to sitting room (one for FM aerial for RTE, one for Freeview/RTE aerial and the other two I'm keeping for a new Freesat & Saorsat dish I'm building. In all the other rooms I have two Cat6 runs and two Coax, some rooms take telephone and others music players, internet radio, tellys, alarms and a wireless access point for mobile devices. All hardware is located in the garage, no wires anywhere in the house and if you choose your equipment well you can control the whole lot from one universal remote control. Also don't forget to track in your surround sound speakers.
Has anyone looked at this sort of home automation more recently?
With the improvements in WiFi and the number of differing Home automation standards would that volume of wiring be considered excessive?
I'm getting a substantial overhaul on a 70s semi-D. New bathroom, kitchen, complete heating system, rewiring and extra plugs etc, interior warmboard on external walls. Basically a lot of ripping at the same time. Any observations on extra things to do or things to watch out for welcome.
I've a stove in the living room now 3 years or so. Do I need to clean the chimney or the inside of the stove. Usually burn turf. A Plummer told me one time u didn't need to clean the chimney when you have a stove installed
Quote from: redzone on March 12, 2016, 09:33:50 PM
I've a stove in the living room now 3 years or so. Do I need to clean the chimney or the inside of the stove. Usually burn turf. A Plummer told me one time u didn't need to clean the chimney when you have a stove installed
Based on that, I hope that same plumber didn't plumb your house.
He said if I was burning coal it needed to be cleaned but sticks and dry turf are ok . Better get it cleaned
Quote from: redzone on March 12, 2016, 10:08:12 PM
He said if I was burning coal it needed to be cleaned but sticks and dry turf are ok . Better get it cleaned
Both contain carbon and if you burn unseasoned sticks you'll have plenty of crap up your chimney.
Quote from: Tony Baloney on March 12, 2016, 10:19:02 PM
Quote from: redzone on March 12, 2016, 10:08:12 PM
He said if I was burning coal it needed to be cleaned but sticks and dry turf are ok . Better get it cleaned
Both contain carbon and if you burn unseasoned sticks you'll have plenty of crap up your chimney.
I've burnt logs and I'd still put the brush up it once a year. I now burn coal and I haven't noticed any great increase in soot.
Get it done or buy a brush head yourself for a few quite and sewer rods and do it yourself.
Anyone know how much a tonne of sand costs these days, approximately?
Quote from: The Bearded One on May 20, 2016, 10:46:13 AM
Anyone know how much a tonne of sand costs these days, approximately?
Building Sand? Plastering Sand?
Building sand, sorry.
Quote from: The Bearded One on May 20, 2016, 10:49:42 AM
Building sand, sorry.
Anything from £9 to £14 plus vat depending on what part of the country your in.
Good man, thanks.
Anybody have any idea how to get tar of the top of railway sleepers that I have laid as kerbs. Hot weather and it melts, and with children looking to get walking on them u can imagine the mess. It's not that much tar but any wee bit is to much
Quote from: redzone on June 05, 2016, 06:56:21 PM
Anybody have any idea how to get tar of the top of railway sleepers that I have laid as kerbs. Hot weather and it melts, and with children looking to get walking on them u can imagine the mess. It's not that much tar but any wee bit is to much
WD40 or petrol might work to remove the tar.
Quote from: armaghniac on March 11, 2016, 11:42:18 PM
I'm getting a substantial overhaul on a 70s semi-D. New bathroom, kitchen, complete heating system, rewiring and extra plugs etc, interior warmboard on external walls. Basically a lot of ripping at the same time. Any observations on extra things to do or things to watch out for welcome.
Hello Armaghniac, just to add if your going with what looks like a substantial renovation, it would be worth it to also add good quality attic insulation and windows, if applicable. Watch out for any legacy plumbing in the attic, after upgrading the insulation it may be vunerable to low temperature conditions so make sure to add a heat lamp / heater and thermostat. Also, no harm carrying out a radon test if your area is susceptible.
Good idea insulating the exterior walls, you will see a huge difference in your home, especially during cold, wet, humid conditions.
Just noticed the date of your post, job must be done by now !
Quote from: Mayoffs on June 05, 2016, 10:41:25 PM
Just noticed the date of your post, job must be done by now !
Thanks Mayoffs, the work has still to proceed.
The windows are recent, I had to attend to them to avoid freezing altogether.
I will be replacing the tank in the attic and will be concerned about insulation.
Does there exist frost valves that would stop the flow in artic conditions?
Yes, frost valves do exist and are usually installed as part of a solar panel installation. They basically discharge water in a section of line if it gets cold enough, internal stat stops the discharge once a specific temperature is reached. That's one type anyway. Pros and cons to both set ups, you could ask around the trade for other opinions. Best of luck with it.
Anyone ever use the drimaster system for ventilation? Pros and cons over heat recovery?
Drimaster is not a substitute for a heat recovery system all it does is elimate the need for trickle vents on the windows. It is a PIV unit so it takes the air from the attic and blows it into the house there is no heat exchanger with this put you can get one that heats the air coming in but this uses a built in heating element. The theroy is that it keeps the air in the house moving so condensation is never a problem.
A great job altogether, you can get ones with just normal room temp air or ones heated with an element a stated Hereiam stated, if you have any damp or major condensation these are fantastic for eliminating this. They are quiet and prob only need to use them from Nov - March, would def recommend.
Thanks lads
Think they may rule out the need to have fans in each bathroom for building control regs?
No GHL you will still need the extract fans if you put in a drimaster which cost about £100-300 whereas a heat recovery will set u back 3-4k but this it is with this that you do don't put the standard extract out through the walls.
Quote from: giveherlong on June 30, 2016, 02:52:54 PM
Thanks lads
Think they may rule out the need to have fans in each bathroom for building control regs?
They are one of the most important things in your house, some stupid people actually have them installed but have them turned off...Pay a bit extra and get the more powerful extractor fans put in (not sure of the l/sec but it's prob about 60 - 80 l/sec)
Is it important to have the dri master turned on in a new build. Would it make that much difference
Quote from: redzone on June 30, 2016, 04:57:13 PM
Is it important to have the dri master turned on in a new build. Would it make that much difference
A new house will have fewer exit points for moisture soi would have thought it just as important.
Turn it on and dont turn it off. Mine goes 24/7 of course it automatically turns of when the roof space gets hot in the summer and cold in the winter.
Any views on cavity insulation, pumped in bead Vs built in?
I'm thinking of going with the bead- what cavity size would you go for?
150 cavity with 100mm PIR Insulation. Not a fan of the blow in stuff as u are relying on someones word which these days means nothing
Any views on what electric supplier is cheapest up here in the north ? Have to get connected next week
Quote from: Hereiam on July 02, 2016, 07:01:22 PM
150 cavity with 100mm PIR Insulation. Not a fan of the blow in stuff as u are relying on someones word which these days means nothing
On the other hand you are relying on the builder to get the joints and corners right with the board. Swings and roundabouts.
Quote from: FermGael on July 03, 2016, 08:34:42 AM
Any views on what electric supplier is cheapest up here in the north ? Have to get connected next week
http://www.consumercouncil.org.uk/filestore/documents/Electricity_Price_Comparison_Table_1_June_2016.pdf
Chaps looking into sticking a pergola up out the back - do any of ye's know anywhere that specialises in these? Visited a few timber yards/builders merchants on Saturday there and can timber required but would like to chat/visit a place that builds them to decide on on a finish and which type of roof cover to stick on top.
Quote from: FermGael on July 03, 2016, 08:34:42 AM
Any views on what electric supplier is cheapest up here in the north ? Have to get connected next week
I presume you've got the supply in, cable laid etc etc?
Quote from: BenDover on July 04, 2016, 08:15:52 AM
Chaps looking into sticking a pergola up out the back - do any of ye's know anywhere that specialises in these? Visited a few timber yards/builders merchants on Saturday there and can timber required but would like to chat/visit a place that builds them to decide on on a finish and which type of roof cover to stick on top.
whereabouts Ben?
Quote from: aontroim abu on July 04, 2016, 12:36:17 PM
Quote from: FermGael on July 03, 2016, 08:34:42 AM
Any views on what electric supplier is cheapest up here in the north ? Have to get connected next week
I presume you've got the supply in, cable laid etc etc?
Yes
Quote from: aontroim abu on July 04, 2016, 12:36:41 PM
Quote from: BenDover on July 04, 2016, 08:15:52 AM
Chaps looking into sticking a pergola up out the back - do any of ye's know anywhere that specialises in these? Visited a few timber yards/builders merchants on Saturday there and can timber required but would like to chat/visit a place that builds them to decide on on a finish and which type of roof cover to stick on top.
whereabouts Ben?
I'm from Armagh, have found a place in Bangor that we can scope out and also phoned McKinney's in Armagh and chatted with them seems like they can sort me out.
Quote from: LeoMc on July 04, 2016, 08:01:35 AM
Quote from: FermGael on July 03, 2016, 08:34:42 AM
Any views on what electric supplier is cheapest up here in the north ? Have to get connected next week
http://www.consumercouncil.org.uk/filestore/documents/Electricity_Price_Comparison_Table_1_June_2016.pdf
https://powertoswitch.co.uk/
That's a type of uswitch website specific to NI. You enter a few details about your usage and it tells you which provider is best for you. It was setup by a fella who was previously the head of the consumer council
Hoping for a bit of help as my electrician is away on holidays and I have to complete a sheet for the load of a new build. So fingers crossed GAABoard can help.
Have to give general load details for the following, (Kw)
Lighting -(Normal LED bulbs throughout the house)
Unrestricted heating - Not even sure what this is?
Cooking - 2 ovens and one hob and fan.
water heating - Oil Boiler and immersion
MHRV -
If anyone could give a rough idea of what the KW might be for the above it would be very much appreciated. Kinda left this late to be doing and don't want to wait until the electrician is back again as he's away for 2 weeks.
Quote from: trueblue1234 on July 07, 2016, 10:24:28 AM
Hoping for a bit of help as my electrician is away on holidays and I have to complete a sheet for the load of a new build. So fingers crossed GAABoard can help.
Have to give general load details for the following, (Kw)
Lighting -(Normal LED bulbs throughout the house)
Unrestricted heating - Not even sure what this is?
Cooking - 2 ovens and one hob and fan.
water heating - Oil Boiler and immersion
MHRV -
If anyone could give a rough idea of what the KW might be for the above it would be very much appreciated. Kinda left this late to be doing and don't want to wait until the electrician is back again as he's away for 2 weeks.
I don't know much about it but we recently got connected and connection card showed:
Lighting: 4.2KW
Cooking: 5.6KW
Water Heating: 3.0 KW
Motors: 2.6KW
Maximum Import Capacity: 18KVA
Anybody taken out a self build mortgage recently? Any reccomendations on who to go with? Thanks
Quote from: giveherlong on July 19, 2016, 11:00:57 AM
Anybody taken out a self build mortgage recently? Any reccomendations on who to go with? Thanks
Only 3 real options in the North, Halifax, BofI or Progressive.
Halifax have the highest set-up costs and Interest rates so I did not look go to them at all.
With BofI and Progressive you can ignore the headline interest rate as both allow you to jump to one of their standard mortgages as soon as the house is signed off so the Self build is essentially a bridging loan. The Progressive rate is discounted (depending on your loan to value ratio) so it is marginally cheaper during the building phase.
BofI had marginally lower set up fees but I got Progressive earlier this year when they were waiving the fees.
There are slight differences in when each takes their survey fees, BofI before award, Progressive after but before paying out so no real difference.
The big one to consider is who is signing off on the various stages of your build, NHBC builder or Architect. With Progressive they need a higher Liability Insurance, £500K as opposed to £250K. BofI in theory want o see the higher value but they will ignore it if you contracted the Architect directly, i.e. if the house falls down they want the money from you, it is up to you to sure the Architect.
Progressive allow you to set the stages and values, B of I stages are set (I think) but you (your builder) can set the values for each stage.
Thanks for the advice
Did you approach the banks directly or through a broker?
Quote from: giveherlong on July 19, 2016, 01:44:40 PM
Thanks for the advice
Did you approach the banks directly or through a broker?
I went direct.
Quote from: LeoMc on July 04, 2016, 08:00:07 AM
Quote from: Hereiam on July 02, 2016, 07:01:22 PM
150 cavity with 100mm PIR Insulation. Not a fan of the blow in stuff as u are relying on someones word which these days means nothing
On the other hand you are relying on the builder to get the joints and corners right with the board. Swings and roundabouts.
You can tell the bead guy that you are bringing a guy onsite to test it's properly done by drilling test holes in the walls. That will usually make them sure they are pumping it right.
Just looking a bit of advice.
I submitted an outline plan to build a house on our farm. This is the first planning application related to the farm.
We submitted the application at the start of March which the architect thought would be a very straightforward process. Planning have sent out 2 consultations both of which have had no issues, 1 consultation was responded to in April the other at the start of June.
Since then there has been no movement and my patience is starting to go, surely it cant take over 5 months for a decision when there has been no objections thus far.
Both me and the architect have rang and asked what the hold up is and were told it would be looked into, but nothing has happened.
Anyone have any similar dealings with planning or anyone any advice on what to do?
Surely it shouldn't take this long.
July happened!! Nothing moves in the planning office during that month in my experience. I think we took roughly 4-5 months as well and it was about the same time of year.
What it boils down to is the lack of pressure from your architect. This is what u pay him for you shouldn't have to ring about it. Poor service if you ask me.
Anybody know were I can buy rubber mulch (bark) in ni. How much it cost roughly and coverage. Thanks
In 50 years do you think houses will be made of something different. Bricks and mortar seems a bit neanderthal.
Quote from: safeplayer on August 12, 2016, 04:08:26 PM
Just looking a bit of advice.
I submitted an outline plan to build a house on our farm. This is the first planning application related to the farm.
We submitted the application at the start of March which the architect thought would be a very straightforward process. Planning have sent out 2 consultations both of which have had no issues, 1 consultation was responded to in April the other at the start of June.
Since then there has been no movement and my patience is starting to go, surely it cant take over 5 months for a decision when there has been no objections thus far.
Both me and the architect have rang and asked what the hold up is and were told it would be looked into, but nothing has happened.
Anyone have any similar dealings with planning or anyone any advice on what to do?
Surely it shouldn't take this long.
sent in planning application for an extension in early may 2015, it was approved around mid august 2015 and that was the easy bit tbh. wait until you deal with building control!!!
Quote from: Olly on August 13, 2016, 11:24:20 PM
In 50 years do you think houses will be made of something different. Bricks and mortar seems a bit neanderthal.
In the us, they are all made from wood
Quote from: clarshack on August 14, 2016, 12:12:09 AM
Quote from: safeplayer on August 12, 2016, 04:08:26 PM
Just looking a bit of advice.
I submitted an outline plan to build a house on our farm. This is the first planning application related to the farm.
We submitted the application at the start of March which the architect thought would be a very straightforward process. Planning have sent out 2 consultations both of which have had no issues, 1 consultation was responded to in April the other at the start of June.
Since then there has been no movement and my patience is starting to go, surely it cant take over 5 months for a decision when there has been no objections thus far.
Both me and the architect have rang and asked what the hold up is and were told it would be looked into, but nothing has happened.
Anyone have any similar dealings with planning or anyone any advice on what to do?
Surely it shouldn't take this long.
sent in planning application for an extension in early may 2015, it was approved around mid august 2015 and that was the easy bit tbh. wait until you deal with building control!!!
think youre totally off kilter there Clarsach
Anyone ever get a worktop from Project Marble (PM Fireplaces) in Dungannon?
Have dealt with them in the past and would have no problem with them
Anyone have experience of NIEA requesting a habitat survey specifically an otter and badger survey?
Any reccomendations on company's in the North which provide these surveys?
Thanks
Quote from: Timber Time on September 12, 2016, 10:27:27 AM
Anyone have experience of NIEA requesting a habitat survey specifically an otter and badger survey?
Any reccomendations on company's in the North which provide these surveys?
Thanks
Oh dear. I know someone who spent about 20 grand sorting all that out :'(
Quote from: Tony Baloney on September 12, 2016, 01:44:16 PM
Quote from: Timber Time on September 12, 2016, 10:27:27 AM
Anyone have experience of NIEA requesting a habitat survey specifically an otter and badger survey?
Any reccomendations on company's in the North which provide these surveys?
Thanks
Oh dear. I know someone who spent about 20 grand sorting all that out :'(
We had to get one done because we were doing work at the field and there was some sort of rare newt living near where we were working. It was about 3 grand as far as I can remember.
That's expensive...
Any company names?
Quote from: Timber Time on September 12, 2016, 02:14:09 PM
That's expensive...
Any company names?
I'll find out who did ours and let you know.
Anyone know what the best way to get/keep that red scale that comes on concrete copings and window sills away
Currently in the final stages of a house design
We've been planning on a timber frame house with outer block leaf, constructed with prefabricated insulated timber panels. The roofs will also be constructed using the insulated panels ensuring quick build time, standardised insulation across the house.
Its about 260 sq metres. We're going with solar panels to generate electricity and use it to heat water
A friend of mine has been doing the drawings as a long overdue wedding present!
A building consultant I know and I recently met with, has encouraged us to go back to a full block house (with high levels of floor, ceiling and wall insulation) due to better heat retention in the walls for heating, sound proofing between rooms, fixing stuff on the walls etc
He also suggested underfloor heating with and air to water pump is the way to go.
What are people's opinions on the air to water pumps?
Underfloor heating?
Block v Timber insulated panels
Quote from: redzone on September 18, 2016, 08:37:52 AM
Anyone know what the best way to get/keep that red scale that comes on concrete copings and window sills away
Bleach is worth a go to start with, normal stuff you get in the shop, if it's real bad pour it on neat, if it's over a big area mix it up with water and put on with a watering can, leave it sit for a while and power hose off.
If it comes back try a product called mosgo.
How far from the coast are you?
Quote from: The Subbie on September 18, 2016, 10:26:29 AM
Quote from: redzone on September 18, 2016, 08:37:52 AM
Anyone know what the best way to get/keep that red scale that comes on concrete copings and window sills away
Bleach is worth a go to start with, normal stuff you get in the shop, if it's real bad pour it on neat, if it's over a big area mix it up with water and put on with a watering can, leave it sit for a while and power hose off.
If it comes back try a product called mosgo.
How far from the coast are you?
Co.tyrone. But I have noticed that it always comes on things that are facing the west, especially houses. A man who I know was adamant one time that if you used brown coloured sand then it was very prone to coming out. He maintained to use yellow sand especially if plastering a house. Not sure if that theory is right
Quote from: redzone on September 18, 2016, 10:51:01 AM
Quote from: The Subbie on September 18, 2016, 10:26:29 AM
Quote from: redzone on September 18, 2016, 08:37:52 AM
Anyone know what the best way to get/keep that red scale that comes on concrete copings and window sills away
Bleach is worth a go to start with, normal stuff you get in the shop, if it's real bad pour it on neat, if it's over a big area mix it up with water and put on with a watering can, leave it sit for a while and power hose off.
If it comes back try a product called mosgo.
How far from the coast are you?
Co.tyrone. But I have noticed that it always comes on things that are facing the west, especially houses. A man who I know was adamant one time that if you used brown coloured sand then it was very prone to coming out. He maintained to use yellow sand especially if plastering a house. Not sure if that theory is right
It could be, I've often heard that the red staining could be a result of oxidisation of iron pyrites contained in sand, there would be more of that in brown sand than yellow but I'm only guessing.
Quote from: The Subbie on September 18, 2016, 10:26:29 AM
Quote from: redzone on September 18, 2016, 08:37:52 AM
Anyone know what the best way to get/keep that red scale that comes on concrete copings and window sills away
Bleach is worth a go to start with, normal stuff you get in the shop, if it's real bad pour it on neat, if it's over a big area mix it up with water and put on with a watering can, leave it sit for a while and power hose off.
If it comes back try a product called mosgo.
How far from the coast are you?
5 gallon drum of hydro chlorite used to clean milking parlors is a good job. Get it from the agristore and use a garden sprayer. Be wared though, you will destroy whatever clothes you're wearing!
Quote from: TabClear on September 18, 2016, 06:06:09 PM
Quote from: The Subbie on September 18, 2016, 10:26:29 AM
Quote from: redzone on September 18, 2016, 08:37:52 AM
Anyone know what the best way to get/keep that red scale that comes on concrete copings and window sills away
Bleach is worth a go to start with, normal stuff you get in the shop, if it's real bad pour it on neat, if it's over a big area mix it up with water and put on with a watering can, leave it sit for a while and power hose off.
If it comes back try a product called mosgo.
How far from the coast are you?
5 gallon drum of hydro chlorite used to clean milking parlors is a good job. Get it from the agristore and use a garden sprayer. Be wared though, you will destroy whatever clothes you're wearing!
I'd be more worried about the seals on the windows to be honest !! Be careful if using that stuff, it's good gear without a doubt but it will eat through anything in its way !!
It will also attack and at least discolour any mastic it comes into contact with.
Lads any advise on septic tank options here in the North? Building at the minute. Will be detached house in the country.
You need to make a consent to discharge application. If ur putting the discharge to land drains then u will need to do a perculatation test and these results determine what tanknyou can install. Have to say most new houses are being force down the route of the more expensive bio disc or air pump tanks
Quote from: Hereiam on September 21, 2016, 12:03:37 AM
You need to make a consent to discharge application. If ur putting the discharge to land drains then u will need to do a perculatation test and these results determine what tanknyou can install. Have to say most new houses are being force down the route of the more expensive bio disc or air pump tanks
get a bio disc
Bio disc's are costly and are a pain in the ass. The main problem with them is that its not like the ordinary tank where you bury it in the ground and forget about it (except for emptying). It requires maintenance and that is a job on its own.
Yeah had been reading about those. Costly handling for installation as well as maintenance. I take it the old block tanks are a thing of the past.
Does anyone have any experience of a quooker or similar instant hot water systems. Cheapest quooker is £780, are they worth the money, and are they that much more efficient regarding your lecky bill? Any advice appreciated
They require much more maintenance that you would be led to believe on purchase. Bought two of them a few years ago for a staff kitchen. The water delivered is never boiling as it cannot be as it is he'd in a tank before travelling to the tap. Storage tank needs space in your cabinet below the tap. Eventually replaced one with an old still geyser. Difficult to keep them operating at a particular temp close to boiling.
Dry stone walling, anyone any experience of having such a wall built, and any recommendations for a good stone mason who specialises in them in the north?
I'm looking at getting a boundary wall built around side and back of house, and was thinking that a dry stone wall would look the part, thanks in advance.
Roads currently being dug up our way for the installation of gas. I'd have no hesitation in switching from Oil to gas but the OH is taking some convincing. Has anyone on here made the switch and care to discuss the process, pro's vs con's etc?
I'm on gas in the city, and if there are any cons I've yet to discover them
Hello guys,new to this gaa board and a boring new first post,but could any of yous recommend someone good to do drawings for a new house,we have been drawing ourselves and have it almost agreeed in what we want the house to look like,obviously want to lee costs down as much as we can,I know the cheapest is not always the best option,any pointers would be greatly appreciated
Where r u building?
It's outside dungannon,in development land so have been told there should be no restrictions.Its not straightforward with a few curved walls and that,what is the going rate £1 per square foot?
Ah ur in my part of the country. For obtaining planning and building control approvals u would looking at something in around that.
Anyone have any recent dealings with NIE on domestic electricty connections for new house ?
I'm about 230 metres from the nearest pole. The estimate on their website says I could be looking at £13,500 for a connection :(
It's just a straightforward couple of poles across a field, no road crossings
If anyone has got quotes from them let me know how much
Thanks
That quote sounds about right for that distance. Id have said £15k tbh
It's sharp enough money to get connected
No doubt lad and they are gunna make profit outta the house for as long as it stands. If it was 50M less itd be £5k too.
Nothing can be done by sounds of it just grin and bear it
Quote from: giveherlong on January 07, 2017, 02:47:28 PM
Anyone have any recent dealings with NIE on domestic electricty connections for new house ?
I'm about 230 metres from the nearest pole. The estimate on their website says I could be looking at £13,500 for a connection :(
It's just a straightforward couple of poles across a field, no road crossings
If anyone has got quotes from them let me know how much
Thanks
230m would not be a couple of poles bud, more like 4. Had to do it myself about 10 years ago and if you own the ground the underground cable option was a lot cheaper, provided you own the ground of course and get your own digger man to dig the track.
Quote from: StGallsGAA on January 08, 2017, 01:22:37 AM
Quote from: giveherlong on January 07, 2017, 02:47:28 PM
Anyone have any recent dealings with NIE on domestic electricty connections for new house ?
I'm about 230 metres from the nearest pole. The estimate on their website says I could be looking at £13,500 for a connection :(
It's just a straightforward couple of poles across a field, no road crossings
If anyone has got quotes from them let me know how much
Thanks
230m would not be a couple of poles bud, more like 4. Had to do it myself about 10 years ago and if you own the ground the underground cable option was a lot cheaper, provided you own the ground of course and get your own digger man to dig the track.
Cheers lad, will take a look at that option
Anybody using the help to buy ISA?
What way do you go about claiming your bonus with a self build mortgage?
Quote from: giveherlong on January 07, 2017, 02:47:28 PM
Anyone have any recent dealings with NIE on domestic electricty connections for new house ?
I'm about 230 metres from the nearest pole. The estimate on their website says I could be looking at £13,500 for a connection :(
It's just a straightforward couple of poles across a field, no road crossings
If anyone has got quotes from them let me know how much
Thanks
I've just got mine done and it was about £4000, thats an underground cable about 75metres away. If you need a transformer itll cost more
Quote from: gander on January 09, 2017, 10:23:10 AM
Quote from: giveherlong on January 07, 2017, 02:47:28 PM
Anyone have any recent dealings with NIE on domestic electricty connections for new house ?
I'm about 230 metres from the nearest pole. The estimate on their website says I could be looking at £13,500 for a connection :(
It's just a straightforward couple of poles across a field, no road crossings
If anyone has got quotes from them let me know how much
Thanks
I've just got mine done and it was about £4000, thats an underground cable about 75metres away. If you need a transformer itll cost more
Transformer is the big thing. It's pot luck as if your the house that tips the balance in area and a bigger one is needed you pay the lot. Likewise if your neighbour was the one who had to pay for the upgrade you might get lucky. Either way make sure you do as much of the excavation and reinstatement yourself in terms of trenches etc.
Quote from: gander on January 09, 2017, 10:23:10 AM
Quote from: giveherlong on January 07, 2017, 02:47:28 PM
Anyone have any recent dealings with NIE on domestic electricty connections for new house ?
I'm about 230 metres from the nearest pole. The estimate on their website says I could be looking at £13,500 for a connection :(
It's just a straightforward couple of poles across a field, no road crossings
If anyone has got quotes from them let me know how much
Thanks
I've just got mine done and it was about £4000, thats an underground cable about 75metres away. If you need a transformer itll cost more
I'd be inclined to speak to the farmer or whoever owns the ground as the underground cable may be the best bet to keep the costs down.
A farmer certainly won't want poles bang slap in the middle of a field.
Based in NI, we have an invoice from a southern company with 23% VAT while building a house. Can you claim VAT back on a southern invoice for materials in the north?
Quote from: trueblue1234 on January 16, 2017, 02:18:38 PM
Based in NI, we have an invoice from a southern company with 23% VAT while building a house. Can you claim VAT back on a southern invoice for materials in the north?
https://www.nibusinessinfo.co.uk/content/tax-issues-when-trading-republic-ireland (https://www.nibusinessinfo.co.uk/content/tax-issues-when-trading-republic-ireland)
If you have someone working on your property that has a uk vat no and they were going to use the materials, you could give their vat no to the co in the south and they would supply the materials vat free and you wouldn't have to reclaim the vat as you wouldn't gave paid it. The southern co sometimes ask for a letterhead with the vat no.
Quote from: Nailer on January 16, 2017, 09:39:20 PM
If you have someone working on your property that has a uk vat no and they were going to use the materials, you could give their vat no to the co in the south and they would supply the materials vat free and you wouldn't have to reclaim the vat as you wouldn't gave paid it. The southern co sometimes ask for a letterhead with the vat no.
Just as well you are doing it now, Teresa May will be charging you duty in a few months.
Looking for advice regarding connecting ESB power to dwelling.
Family bought land lately and looking to put pump house for a well for troughs and electric fencer. Farming land but hopefully plans to put a house on it in few years time. Do I put down as dwelling so as don't get charged commercial rates for power.
Also trying to navigate the ordnance survey website for maps and site plan. Am I best ringing the OS crowd. Nearly €50 for map online. Wondering is there a better way of going about the application. Any help appreciated!
Any other decent options for thermal blocks apart from Quinn lite?
Quote from: Helix on January 23, 2017, 11:02:04 PM
Looking for advice regarding connecting ESB power to dwelling.
Family bought land lately and looking to put pump house for a well for troughs and electric fencer. Farming land but hopefully plans to put a house on it in few years time. Do I put down as dwelling so as don't get charged commercial rates for power.
Also trying to navigate the ordnance survey website for maps and site plan. Am I best ringing the OS crowd. Nearly €50 for map online. Wondering is there a better way of going about the application. Any help appreciated!
Where are you based Helix? Not sure about other Co Councils, but my local Wexford provide all the maps online:
Follow the link: http://www.wexford.ie/wex/departments/planning/searchplanningapplications/ (http://www.wexford.ie/wex/departments/planning/searchplanningapplications/) and then click on the iMaps button.
Some changes in the works for Locals only planning rules.
http://selfbuild.ie/news/roi_locals_only_planning_rules/
Sligo's County Development Plan is being revised to remove 'locals only' planning rules, SelfBuild has learned, with counties Galway and Kerry considering similar moves.
According to current planning rules, restrictions to building a home in the countryside apply to green belt/sensitive areas and to rural areas under urban influence.
In both cases locals-only rules apply, but for rural areas under urban influence Sligo's draft County Development Plan (CDP) 2017-2023 included a particularly onerous requirement, stating applicants had to build on a site within a 5km radius of their original family home.
Sligo Councillor Michael Clarke told SelfBuild a second draft has been finalised and this clause has been removed, along with other locals-only rules for rural areas under urban influence.
According to Clarke an amended CDP with relaxed one-off housing provisions is expected to be published in 10 days for public consultation. He expects the final CDP in three months' time.
These policies, he says, are contrary to EU law in relation to restricting the movement of people and capital, an argument upheld by a 2013 European Court ruling.
For Sligo green belt areas and sensitive areas, restrictions will continue to apply, said Clarke, however it will now become possible for locals who own land that has been in the family for generations to build a house on these designated areas.
Under previous arrangements even if you were a local, Clarke said building on a green belt area was almost impossible.
National implications
Clarke told SelfBuild he has been liaising with Kerry and Galway councillors who are also looking to amend the one-off housing provisions of their development plans.
Galway Councillor Jim Cuddy confirmed to SelfBuild he would be tabling a motion at the next council meeting in April to remove planning restrictions on residents who wish to move outside of their town to build a home in a rural area under urban influence.
"This will have implications nationwide," Cuddy told SelfBuild. "This won't be particular to one county." Cuddy is lobbying his local TD to change Ministerial Guidelines in relation to housing policy and believes the European Court of Justice ruling will force the issue.
This is not the first time these rules have been challenged. Ten years ago the European Commission questioned their legality; the Irish state at the time replied the criteria were "well balanced and proportionate".
Quote from: Donagh on February 08, 2017, 05:04:47 PM
Quote from: Helix on January 23, 2017, 11:02:04 PM
Looking for advice regarding connecting ESB power to dwelling.
Family bought land lately and looking to put pump house for a well for troughs and electric fencer. Farming land but hopefully plans to put a house on it in few years time. Do I put down as dwelling so as don't get charged commercial rates for power.
Also trying to navigate the ordnance survey website for maps and site plan. Am I best ringing the OS crowd. Nearly €50 for map online. Wondering is there a better way of going about the application. Any help appreciated!
Only seeing now but thanks for reply. Eventually got sorted. 12 weeks waiting period as far as I'm aware for power installation.
Where are you based Helix? Not sure about other Co Councils, but my local Wexford provide all the maps online:
Follow the link: http://www.wexford.ie/wex/departments/planning/searchplanningapplications/ (http://www.wexford.ie/wex/departments/planning/searchplanningapplications/) and then click on the iMaps button.
For those of you who self built your house in the North who did you use for self build insurance? Have looked at a few but the quotes vary widely between them. Thanks for any help
Anyone here installed heat pumps in the last couple of years?
What's the verdict? Any negatives to report?
Quote from: grounded on April 01, 2017, 09:50:43 AM
For those of you who self built your house in the North who did you use for self build insurance? Have looked at a few but the quotes vary widely between them. Thanks for any help
Used ProTek. Competitive price and we had a claim for A wall coming down and very easy to deal with.
Might be putting on an extension/ rennovation to a house.
Any good websites where you can design your own plans?
Would anyone know if you have to put a 6" vent in for an electric fire/stove? I know you have to for solid fuel but I didn't think there would be a requirement when it's electric. But just wanted to double check?
QuoteWould anyone know if you have to put a 6" vent in for an electric fire/stove? I know you have to for solid fuel but I didn't think there would be a requirement when it's electric. But just wanted to double check?
I think it's just for solid fuel/stove as you say ... though not sure if it now applies to any room that has a chimney in it irrespective of what the fire type is (just to make sure the room is future proof should you decide to put a stove in later) ... best to check with buidling control.
I know I had to put them into two rooms, seemed an awful waste insulating the house to cut a hole in the wall!
Built 4 years ago, used good insulation in walls and floor of attic, and probably went overboard with the attic insulation. Upstairs is warm whilst the heat is on, the problem is once the heat is turned off, upstairs seems to have zero heat retention ... half an hour after turning heat off, upstairs is very cold. Something not right.
Can anyone recommend a way to check where the heat is getting out? Has anyone went for the sprayed foam insulation in the attic between the rafters?
Have u many downlighters in the ceiling
Quote from: balladmaker on April 05, 2017, 10:16:20 PM
Built 4 years ago, used good insulation in walls and floor of attic, and probably went overboard with the attic insulation. Upstairs is warm whilst the heat is on, the problem is once the heat is turned off, upstairs seems to have zero heat retention ... half an hour after turning heat off, upstairs is very cold. Something not right.
Can anyone recommend a way to check where the heat is getting out? Has anyone went for the sprayed foam insulation in the attic between the rafters?
You could try and get someone in to do an air tightness test. Should highlight any problems. Would you notice any drafts near the windows? Badly fitted windows can be a big culprit.
Am going to put a small extension on my house. Anyone recommend a tidy builder around the Armagh area?
Tidiness is important as we're living in the house.
Any QS's on here that I could PM. a quick question too?
Quote from: Norf Tyrone on April 02, 2017, 12:29:58 AM
Might be putting on an extension/ rennovation to a house.
Any good websites where you can design your own plans?
As opposed to paying an architect £300-£400 for a professional job? If you design it yourself the builder will have that extra price out of you 5 times over!
Hi. Looking at buying a 4 bed house in dublin. Needs rewired and an updated new heating system 4 bed 1 bathroom 4 rooms downstairs with a wc. Any idea roughly the cost. Would need new radiators throughout.
Quote from: JimStynes on January 24, 2012, 10:30:46 PM
anybody ever use this company run by a fella called Eric Davidson? http://www.reinco.co.uk/
Jim I know it's a while ago but did you use this fella?
Quote from: snoopdog on May 03, 2017, 12:06:57 PM
Hi. Looking at buying a 4 bed house in dublin. Needs rewired and an updated new heating system 4 bed 1 bathroom 4 rooms downstairs with a wc. Any idea roughly the cost. Would need new radiators throughout.
Looking at between €5000 to €6000 for a rewire.
Quote from: StGallsGAA on April 23, 2017, 07:30:02 PM
Quote from: Norf Tyrone on April 02, 2017, 12:29:58 AM
Might be putting on an extension/ rennovation to a house.
Any good websites where you can design your own plans?
As opposed to paying an architect £300-£400 for a professional job? If you design it yourself the builder will have that extra price out of you 5 times over!
It was really only to get a few designs on paper before I went to architect, which I did.
Quote from: giveherlong on January 09, 2017, 10:07:08 AM
Anybody using the help to buy ISA?
What way do you go about claiming your bonus with a self build mortgage?
You have any luck with this? What bank were you with?
Tried this recently with Ulster Bank, was told that because we (me and oh) had land in our name, (which was purchased for the purpose of building our new first house) we could not benefit from this. We were due to get £1000 each off this but it didn't pan out ffs, the rules for self builds were not clear at all. Solicitor later told us it could have been used to purchase the land.
Quote from: Ethan Tremblay on June 05, 2017, 01:49:09 PM
Tried this recently with Ulster Bank, was told that because we (me and oh) had land in our name, (which was purchased for the purpose of building our new first house) we could not benefit from this. We were due to get £1000 each off this but it didn't pan out ffs, the rules for self builds were not clear at all. Solicitor later told us it could have been used to purchase the land.
I've been told something similar, a lot of conflicting information online regarding self builds. My da owns the land so there may be a way in which we could work it to get the bonus? Think I'll get speaking to a solicitor who knows the ins and outs.
Not sure if anyone has a clue on this.
Basically I have a bit of land in Fermanagh that I want to start looking at building on. The issue is less than half the land there about a ten feet drop to marsh type land. My thoughts are that I want to fill this land up to level of the rest of the good land and use as my garden. What's the best way to go about this? Nearest quarry job? Or are there environmental factors.
But a sign up at the road, fill wanted and sit back and watch her go. ;D
Anyone able to recommend a glazier in Belfast to put double glazing into a house?
TIA
Quote from: supersarsfields on July 03, 2017, 02:57:44 PM
Anyone able to recommend a glazier in Belfast to put double glazing into a house?
TIA
Try Geoghegans, they appear to have an aggressive marketing campaign at the moment across the country.
https://www.conservatoryconversionsireland.com/upvc-windows-doors/ (https://www.conservatoryconversionsireland.com/upvc-windows-doors/)
Looking at heating options for a new build, have narrowed it down to ground source heat pump or conventional oil heating, has anyone any experience of the former? My inclination would be to install underfloor heating along with this and we are looking at solar for water heating, haven't started talking to any companies yet for pricing either but looking for end user experience to see whether it is worth the outlay (whatever that may be).
Deffo go for the solar panels to heat the water. I've 4 sq metre ones (£3K IIRC) on a 300 Litre tank and its the dogs danglies. I don't burn any oil from about May on depending on the sun and its inclination to appear which so far this year has been pretty good.
Insulate to the balls, it will pay off in the long term.
Quote from: lfdown2 on July 07, 2017, 11:17:41 AM
Looking at heating options for a new build, have narrowed it down to ground source heat pump or conventional oil heating, has anyone any experience of the former? My inclination would be to install underfloor heating along with this and we are looking at solar for water heating, haven't started talking to any companies yet for pricing either but looking for end user experience to see whether it is worth the outlay (whatever that may be).
This country is not suitable for underfloor heating because of its inability to change quickly in response in changes in the weather.
As said above put your money into insulation and air tightness to reduce the amount of heat you will need. Then the heat source is almost irrelevant if you spend enough on insulation, look to Scandinavian countries for standards in this area.
Quote from: Owen Brannigan on July 07, 2017, 02:54:33 PM
Quote from: lfdown2 on July 07, 2017, 11:17:41 AM
Looking at heating options for a new build, have narrowed it down to ground source heat pump or conventional oil heating, has anyone any experience of the former? My inclination would be to install underfloor heating along with this and we are looking at solar for water heating, haven't started talking to any companies yet for pricing either but looking for end user experience to see whether it is worth the outlay (whatever that may be).
This country is not suitable for underfloor heating because of its inability to change quickly in response in changes in the weather.
As said above put your money into insulation and air tightness to reduce the amount of heat you will need. Then the heat source is almost irrelevant if you spend enough on insulation, look to Scandinavian countries for standards in this area.
Would the intention not be to maintain a constant temperature which would be achieved with the insulation therefore negating the requirement to change quickly?
Quote from: lfdown2 on July 07, 2017, 08:48:31 PM
Quote from: Owen Brannigan on July 07, 2017, 02:54:33 PM
Quote from: lfdown2 on July 07, 2017, 11:17:41 AM
Looking at heating options for a new build, have narrowed it down to ground source heat pump or conventional oil heating, has anyone any experience of the former? My inclination would be to install underfloor heating along with this and we are looking at solar for water heating, haven't started talking to any companies yet for pricing either but looking for end user experience to see whether it is worth the outlay (whatever that may be).
This country is not suitable for underfloor heating because of its inability to change quickly in response in changes in the weather.
As said above put your money into insulation and air tightness to reduce the amount of heat you will need. Then the heat source is almost irrelevant if you spend enough on insulation, look to Scandinavian countries for standards in this area.
Would the intention not be to maintain a constant temperature which would be achieved with the insulation therefore negating the requirement to change quickly?
Yes this country is fine for underfloor. Especially with a well sealed , insulated house. Plus liquid screeds now can react much quicker than the tradition sand cement (although the sand cement screed is better for heat retention).
As mentioned insulate the balls of it and try and get good air tightness (tape/ foam the windows essential) and the actual heat source is less important. If your going real tight on the air tightness look into a heat recovery ventilation system.
Quote from: trueblue1234 on July 08, 2017, 12:13:53 AM
Quote from: lfdown2 on July 07, 2017, 08:48:31 PM
Quote from: Owen Brannigan on July 07, 2017, 02:54:33 PM
Quote from: lfdown2 on July 07, 2017, 11:17:41 AM
Looking at heating options for a new build, have narrowed it down to ground source heat pump or conventional oil heating, has anyone any experience of the former? My inclination would be to install underfloor heating along with this and we are looking at solar for water heating, haven't started talking to any companies yet for pricing either but looking for end user experience to see whether it is worth the outlay (whatever that may be).
This country is not suitable for underfloor heating because of its inability to change quickly in response in changes in the weather.
As said above put your money into insulation and air tightness to reduce the amount of heat you will need. Then the heat source is almost irrelevant if you spend enough on insulation, look to Scandinavian countries for standards in this area.
Would the intention not be to maintain a constant temperature which would be achieved with the insulation therefore negating the requirement to change quickly?
Yes this country is fine for underfloor. Especially with a well sealed , insulated house. Plus liquid screeds now can react much quicker than the tradition sand cement (although the sand cement screed is better for heat retention).
As mentioned insulate the balls of it and try and get good air tightness (tape/ foam the windows essential) and the actual heat source is less important. If your going real tight on the air tightness look into a heat recovery ventilation system.
When you talk about insulation would 150mm cavity insulation suffice, obviously with a sufficient u value.
I went with 250 with pumped insulation. Don't forget the floor as well. It costs more inthe initial build stage but money well spent. Speak to your glazier as well regarding air tightness.
Check the overall cost of the underfloor heating before proceeding, it is expensive. Most put it just on the ground floor so consider that radiators would probably be used upstairs. Similarly, the ground heat source is expensive compared to a small oil or wood boiler required for a max insulation build.
A good heat exchange system is essential when you go for max air tightness. A cheaper system can be inefficient and noisy. Talk to people who have installed one, the key is the type of piping used and the ability of installers.
Are you going for a block build?
Cost of underfloor has come down a lot in recent years. I have to say I wouldn't consider doing radiators in a new build. Both for comfort and looks. MHRV essential especially if your doing away with trickle vents (Again I'd recommend).
Quote from: trueblue1234 on July 08, 2017, 09:02:31 AM
I went with 250 with pumped insulation. Don't forget the floor as well. It costs more inthe initial build stage but money well spent. Speak to your glazier as well regarding air tightness.
What would be the reason for going 250 cavity? Would a higher uvalue blown insulation have the same effect in a 150 cavity (assuming the benefit of the extra width is to increase the uvalue)
Quote from: Owen Brannigan on July 08, 2017, 09:41:04 AM
Check the overall cost of the underfloor heating before proceeding, it is expensive. Most put it just on the ground floor so consider that radiators would probably be used upstairs. Similarly, the ground heat source is expensive compared to a small oil or wood boiler required for a max insulation build.
A good heat exchange system is essential when you go for max air tightness. A cheaper system can be inefficient and noisy. Talk to people who have installed one, the key is the type of piping used and the ability of installers.
Are you going for a block build?
Yes, block build.
Thanks for all the advice lads
Quote from: lfdown2 on July 10, 2017, 08:55:38 AM
Quote from: trueblue1234 on July 08, 2017, 09:02:31 AM
I went with 250 with pumped insulation. Don't forget the floor as well. It costs more inthe initial build stage but money well spent. Speak to your glazier as well regarding air tightness.
What would be the reason for going 250 cavity? Would a higher uvalue blown insulation have the same effect in a 150 cavity (assuming the benefit of the extra width is to increase the uvalue)
Quote from: Owen Brannigan on July 08, 2017, 09:41:04 AM
Check the overall cost of the underfloor heating before proceeding, it is expensive. Most put it just on the ground floor so consider that radiators would probably be used upstairs. Similarly, the ground heat source is expensive compared to a small oil or wood boiler required for a max insulation build.
A good heat exchange system is essential when you go for max air tightness. A cheaper system can be inefficient and noisy. Talk to people who have installed one, the key is the type of piping used and the ability of installers.
Are you going for a block build?
Yes, block build.
Thanks for all the advice lads
If u want to PM me your email address I'll send you through a doc that we got done that might be worth a look. We got a guy in to advise and he gave a report. Nothing extra ordinary in it but few things that helped us.
Quote from: trueblue1234 on July 10, 2017, 12:54:31 PM
Quote from: lfdown2 on July 10, 2017, 08:55:38 AM
Quote from: trueblue1234 on July 08, 2017, 09:02:31 AM
I went with 250 with pumped insulation. Don't forget the floor as well. It costs more inthe initial build stage but money well spent. Speak to your glazier as well regarding air tightness.
What would be the reason for going 250 cavity? Would a higher uvalue blown insulation have the same effect in a 150 cavity (assuming the benefit of the extra width is to increase the uvalue)
Quote from: Owen Brannigan on July 08, 2017, 09:41:04 AM
Check the overall cost of the underfloor heating before proceeding, it is expensive. Most put it just on the ground floor so consider that radiators would probably be used upstairs. Similarly, the ground heat source is expensive compared to a small oil or wood boiler required for a max insulation build.
A good heat exchange system is essential when you go for max air tightness. A cheaper system can be inefficient and noisy. Talk to people who have installed one, the key is the type of piping used and the ability of installers.
Are you going for a block build?
Yes, block build.
Thanks for all the advice lads
If u want to PM me your email address I'll send you through a doc that we got done that might be worth a look. We got a guy in to advise and he gave a report. Nothing extra ordinary in it but few things that helped us.
done, cheers
Is anyone sealing their block with a waterproofing seal?
Quote from: lfdown2 on July 11, 2017, 09:20:31 AM
Quote from: trueblue1234 on July 10, 2017, 12:54:31 PM
Quote from: lfdown2 on July 10, 2017, 08:55:38 AM
Quote from: trueblue1234 on July 08, 2017, 09:02:31 AM
I went with 250 with pumped insulation. Don't forget the floor as well. It costs more inthe initial build stage but money well spent. Speak to your glazier as well regarding air tightness.
What would be the reason for going 250 cavity? Would a higher uvalue blown insulation have the same effect in a 150 cavity (assuming the benefit of the extra width is to increase the uvalue)
Quote from: Owen Brannigan on July 08, 2017, 09:41:04 AM
Check the overall cost of the underfloor heating before proceeding, it is expensive. Most put it just on the ground floor so consider that radiators would probably be used upstairs. Similarly, the ground heat source is expensive compared to a small oil or wood boiler required for a max insulation build.
A good heat exchange system is essential when you go for max air tightness. A cheaper system can be inefficient and noisy. Talk to people who have installed one, the key is the type of piping used and the ability of installers.
Are you going for a block build?
Yes, block build.
Thanks for all the advice lads
If u want to PM me your email address I'll send you through a doc that we got done that might be worth a look. We got a guy in to advise and he gave a report. Nothing extra ordinary in it but few things that helped us.
done, cheers
I'll get that across on Thursday. It's on my work laptop!
If you are renovating a house do you need to inform your insurance company?
It's a new house that we are moving into so this will be new insurance on it.
Quote from: DrinkingHarp on July 11, 2017, 10:44:24 AM
Is anyone sealing their block with a waterproofing seal?
Is it a cavity wall?
Lads in the process of buying a dormer bungalow . And looking to despise and put an xtension on the side. Already a nverted garage there but looking to go up a storey on the top.I'm in Dublin. . What would I expect to pay new architect to do plans for this.
What paint brands would people recommend for a internal walls of a new build?
Joe we got a professional to do main hallway walls and he reccomends and only uses johnstones, now he uses the trade paint which costs more but seemingly a better kind but in general he says its better in his opinion
Totally agree with this, Johnstones is the only paint i will spec on a job now
I concur too. Johnstones trade paint
Cheers lads, checked out their site there and quite a few options. Looking to do a few walls and ceilings in a renovation so a mixture of newly plastered walls (some with dry lining some without) and old walls that have already been painted. Any particular types of paint I should look for, just going to do everywhere white for now.
Quote from: joebloggs on July 25, 2017, 04:04:33 PM
Cheers lads, checked out their site there and quite a few options. Looking to do a few walls and ceilings in a renovation so a mixture of newly plastered walls (some with dry lining some without) and old walls that have already been painted. Any particular types of paint I should look for, just going to do everywhere white for now.
Agree with above and take care use only the trade paint. It is now the best available. Go to your nearest Johnstone's Trade Centre. The staff are really helpful.
Do not buy from Homebase, B&Q, etc as their Johnstones paint is not the same as from the Trade Centres.
For the new plaster use the standard white Matt emulsion (trade off course), add one third water to the pure paint to prime the walls. It will be quite thin and a bit difficult to use due to spray from roller bot an excellent sealer for such hot walls. Don't waste money on special primer.
On old walls and ceiling use Matt emulsion as a base coat with no dilution. This will kill ant old colours and provide excellent base for next coats. Two coats of Matt on the ceiling with no dilution.
For the walls you can have almost any colour from the Dulux card as well as Johnstones own card. So plenty of choice. They will mix it for you in the shop.
The choice of finish is your own. I have used the Matt on room walls where there is minimal traffic as it can be easily marked. Used the tough Matt on a staircase as it is still Matt to hide bumps in the plaster but scrubable and it is. Used Vinyl eegshell in bathroom and part of a staircase for hard finish and wipeable. Used soft sheen on room walls but don't like it however it has finish some like and can be gently wiped clean.
Johnstones prices are good for trade paint but will appear dearer to store paint which is far inferior.
Excellent info, thanks.
Would hiring a sprayer be worthwhile if we were going to paint the whole house white to begin with? Find painting tedious and would rather spend time taping up and bomb through the painting than spending days painting.
Spraying does take a fair degree of skill and the mistakes with runners due to overspray are almost impossible to eradicate. Also the cleaning of an airless sprayer is a tedious task before you leave it back to the hirer. Don't think of buying a cheap sprayer and taking on a house.
Best to buy the paint and to pay a painter by the day to roller the whole hose white.
Quote from: Owen Brannigan on July 28, 2017, 02:33:03 PM
Spraying does take a fair degree of skill and the mistakes with runners due to overspray are almost impossible to eradicate. Also the cleaning of an airless sprayer is a tedious task before you leave it back to the hirer. Don't think of buying a cheap sprayer and taking on a house.
Best to buy the paint and to pay a painter by the day to roller the whole hose white.
Also wait until the skim is well dried out as the undercoat won't take and will be forever flaking on you.
What sort of fee would an architect charge for designing a house? Do they charge per square foot or what way does it work?
Folks- Any tips for insurance companies to cover renovations of properties?
Quote from: Mickey Linden on August 02, 2017, 12:00:54 PM
What sort of fee would an architect charge for designing a house? Do they charge per square foot or what way does it work?
My extension fee was £350 and I saved that twice at least when getting a contractor.
Looking some advice on damp. Had a small patch of damp appear on an interior wall and when I stripped back the paper its a lot worse than i thought. We had gas installed last year and this room in particular (kitchen) used to be freezing but is now really warm. A friend reckons it is rising damp and i will need to get the walls chipped back, injected and replastered. :'( :'(
Have a specialist coming round to look at it but has anyone any idea what sort of quote i should be expecting. Wall is about 8 feet long. ALso are there any alternatives?
Thanks in Advance
Quote from: TabClear on September 18, 2017, 10:48:04 AM
Looking some advice on damp. Had a small patch of damp appear on an interior wall and when I stripped back the paper its a lot worse than i thought. We had gas installed last year and this room in particular (kitchen) used to be freezing but is now really warm. A friend reckons it is rising damp and i will need to get the walls chipped back, injected and replastered. :'( :'(
Have a specialist coming round to look at it but has anyone any idea what sort of quote i should be expecting. Wall is about 8 feet long. ALso are there any alternatives?
Thanks in Advance
I got that done on a house in Belfast about 2 years ago, cost about £1100.
Quote from: LeoMc on September 18, 2017, 11:11:18 AM
Quote from: TabClear on September 18, 2017, 10:48:04 AM
Looking some advice on damp. Had a small patch of damp appear on an interior wall and when I stripped back the paper its a lot worse than i thought. We had gas installed last year and this room in particular (kitchen) used to be freezing but is now really warm. A friend reckons it is rising damp and i will need to get the walls chipped back, injected and replastered. :'( :'(
Have a specialist coming round to look at it but has anyone any idea what sort of quote i should be expecting. Wall is about 8 feet long. ALso are there any alternatives?
Thanks in Advance
I got that done on a house in Belfast about 2 years ago, cost about £1100.
Thanks Leo, fcuk thats more than I thought. Was that for a single wall?
Quote from: TabClear on September 18, 2017, 11:22:26 AM
Quote from: LeoMc on September 18, 2017, 11:11:18 AM
Quote from: TabClear on September 18, 2017, 10:48:04 AM
Looking some advice on damp. Had a small patch of damp appear on an interior wall and when I stripped back the paper its a lot worse than i thought. We had gas installed last year and this room in particular (kitchen) used to be freezing but is now really warm. A friend reckons it is rising damp and i will need to get the walls chipped back, injected and replastered. :'( :'(
Have a specialist coming round to look at it but has anyone any idea what sort of quote i should be expecting. Wall is about 8 feet long. ALso are there any alternatives?
Thanks in Advance
I got that done on a house in Belfast about 2 years ago, cost about £1100.
Thanks Leo, fcuk thats more than I thought. Was that for a single wall?
Yes, a single external wall, about 18ft long with 2 chimney breasts, plaster stripped to 1m, injected, plaster replaced and the job certified.
What way do I go about getting Septic tank, electric, water applications sent in? I can't find much online about it. Are there any other applications I could submit while waiting for planning to come back?
How much would you estimate to get plans drawn and planning permission passed?
Anyone here have experience of the planning process in NI?
Wouldn't be a regular query:
- Applied and achieved planning permission for a replacement dwelling
- Due to lack of viable lenders had to submit further application for revised entrance
- Upon commencing working drawings decided to throw the whole design up and start from scratch
- Have new application ready to go, inclusive of the revised entrance (above), do not intend to cancelling current permission until this application has been approved
Question is; we would like to commence the earthworks for the lane before we head towards the winter months again, we have permission in place for this but could us starting that in any way hamper the new application?
Quote from: lfdown2 on June 08, 2018, 02:34:51 PM
Anyone here have experience of the planning process in NI?
Wouldn't be a regular query:
- Applied and achieved planning permission for a replacement dwelling
- Due to lack of viable lenders had to submit further application for revised entrance
- Upon commencing working drawings decided to throw the whole design up and start from scratch
- Have new application ready to go, inclusive of the revised entrance (above), do not intend to cancelling current permission until this application has been approved
Question is; we would like to commence the earthworks for the lane before we head towards the winter months again, we have permission in place for this but could us starting that in any way hamper the new application?
Is the new dwelling on the same footprint as the original approval? If so, the Planning Authority should be able to treat the new application as a simple change of house type application, with an amended access arrangement.
If the new proposal isn't on the same footprint then things could be a lot more difficult as there would be a potential for two dwellings on the site. If the works are commenced on the first approval then you would have to seek a revocation of the original application before the second application could be approved, which would be time consuming.
Edit: The works for the lane way would only be seen as meeting a pre-commencement condition, therefore technically the original application wouldn't be started as you would need to also undertake some works associated with the construction of the dwelling.
Quote from: el_cuervo_fc on June 08, 2018, 02:40:25 PM
Quote from: lfdown2 on June 08, 2018, 02:34:51 PM
Anyone here have experience of the planning process in NI?
Wouldn't be a regular query:
- Applied and achieved planning permission for a replacement dwelling
- Due to lack of viable lenders had to submit further application for revised entrance
- Upon commencing working drawings decided to throw the whole design up and start from scratch
- Have new application ready to go, inclusive of the revised entrance (above), do not intend to cancelling current permission until this application has been approved
Question is; we would like to commence the earthworks for the lane before we head towards the winter months again, we have permission in place for this but could us starting that in any way hamper the new application?
Is the new dwelling on the same footprint as the original approval? If so, the Planning Authority should be able to treat the new application as a simple change of house type application, with an amended access arrangement.
If the new proposal isn't on the same footprint then things could be a lot more difficult as there would be a potential for two dwellings on the site. If the works are commenced on the first approval then you would have to seek a revocation of the original application before the second application could be approved, which would be time consuming.
New dwelling is on the same footprint, however significantly different and therefore could not be submitted as simply an amendment. Would anticipate having to seek a revocation of original application. I would like to get a start on the lane only at this stage but do not want to do so if it could be detrimental to new application.
Quote from: lfdown2 on June 08, 2018, 02:34:51 PM
Anyone here have experience of the planning process in NI?
Wouldn't be a regular query:
- Applied and achieved planning permission for a replacement dwelling
- Due to lack of viable lenders had to submit further application for revised entrance
- Upon commencing working drawings decided to throw the whole design up and start from scratch
- Have new application ready to go, inclusive of the revised entrance (above), do not intend to cancelling current permission until this application has been approved
Question is; we would like to commence the earthworks for the lane before we head towards the winter months again, we have permission in place for this but could us starting that in any way hamper the new application?
Sorry can't help with your query as haven't went through the process but you might be able to give me a rough idea of question i asked earlier (or anyone else)
How much would you estimate to get plans drawn and planning permission passed?
Quote from: lfdown2 on June 08, 2018, 02:45:19 PM
Quote from: el_cuervo_fc on June 08, 2018, 02:40:25 PM
Quote from: lfdown2 on June 08, 2018, 02:34:51 PM
Anyone here have experience of the planning process in NI?
Wouldn't be a regular query:
- Applied and achieved planning permission for a replacement dwelling
- Due to lack of viable lenders had to submit further application for revised entrance
- Upon commencing working drawings decided to throw the whole design up and start from scratch
- Have new application ready to go, inclusive of the revised entrance (above), do not intend to cancelling current permission until this application has been approved
Question is; we would like to commence the earthworks for the lane before we head towards the winter months again, we have permission in place for this but could us starting that in any way hamper the new application?
Is the new dwelling on the same footprint as the original approval? If so, the Planning Authority should be able to treat the new application as a simple change of house type application, with an amended access arrangement.
If the new proposal isn't on the same footprint then things could be a lot more difficult as there would be a potential for two dwellings on the site. If the works are commenced on the first approval then you would have to seek a revocation of the original application before the second application could be approved, which would be time consuming.
New dwelling is on the same footprint, however significantly different and therefore could not be submitted as simply an amendment. Would anticipate having to seek a revocation of original application. I would like to get a start on the lane only at this stage but do not want to do so if it could be detrimental to new application.
If the dwelling is on the same footprint then you should require a revocation. A new application should be sufficient, depending on the design and suitability of the access. Are you planning to use both entrances?
Quote from: el_cuervo_fc on June 08, 2018, 02:49:09 PM
Quote from: lfdown2 on June 08, 2018, 02:45:19 PM
Quote from: el_cuervo_fc on June 08, 2018, 02:40:25 PM
Quote from: lfdown2 on June 08, 2018, 02:34:51 PM
Anyone here have experience of the planning process in NI?
Wouldn't be a regular query:
- Applied and achieved planning permission for a replacement dwelling
- Due to lack of viable lenders had to submit further application for revised entrance
- Upon commencing working drawings decided to throw the whole design up and start from scratch
- Have new application ready to go, inclusive of the revised entrance (above), do not intend to cancelling current permission until this application has been approved
Question is; we would like to commence the earthworks for the lane before we head towards the winter months again, we have permission in place for this but could us starting that in any way hamper the new application?
Is the new dwelling on the same footprint as the original approval? If so, the Planning Authority should be able to treat the new application as a simple change of house type application, with an amended access arrangement.
If the new proposal isn't on the same footprint then things could be a lot more difficult as there would be a potential for two dwellings on the site. If the works are commenced on the first approval then you would have to seek a revocation of the original application before the second application could be approved, which would be time consuming.
New dwelling is on the same footprint, however significantly different and therefore could not be submitted as simply an amendment. Would anticipate having to seek a revocation of original application. I would like to get a start on the lane only at this stage but do not want to do so if it could be detrimental to new application.
If the dwelling is on the same footprint then you should require a revocation. A new application should be sufficient, depending on the design and suitability of the access. Are you planning to use both entrances?
The existing entrance will remain - servicing other properties. This was the issue with lenders, the shared lane scenario was a deal beaker for them all. Assume you mean 'should not'. The revised access was passed previously as an amendment to the original application, took longer to go through than the dwelling (in fairness the dwelling is not visible form the road)
Quote from: WT4E on June 08, 2018, 02:46:14 PM
Quote from: lfdown2 on June 08, 2018, 02:34:51 PM
Anyone here have experience of the planning process in NI?
Wouldn't be a regular query:
- Applied and achieved planning permission for a replacement dwelling
- Due to lack of viable lenders had to submit further application for revised entrance
- Upon commencing working drawings decided to throw the whole design up and start from scratch
- Have new application ready to go, inclusive of the revised entrance (above), do not intend to cancelling current permission until this application has been approved
Question is; we would like to commence the earthworks for the lane before we head towards the winter months again, we have permission in place for this but could us starting that in any way hamper the new application?
Sorry can't help with your query as haven't went through the process but you might be able to give me a rough idea of question i asked earlier (or anyone else)
How much would you estimate to get plans drawn and planning permission passed?
Be dependent on a number of factors - all comes back to time, so if there is significant back and forth it would increase costs. I had a friend do up the plans for me but I would estimate with planning fee (£850) you would be looking between £3-5k. Open to correction on that all the same, and that wouldn't include working drawings.
Quote from: lfdown2 on June 08, 2018, 02:56:56 PM
Quote from: el_cuervo_fc on June 08, 2018, 02:49:09 PM
Quote from: lfdown2 on June 08, 2018, 02:45:19 PM
Quote from: el_cuervo_fc on June 08, 2018, 02:40:25 PM
Quote from: lfdown2 on June 08, 2018, 02:34:51 PM
Anyone here have experience of the planning process in NI?
Wouldn't be a regular query:
- Applied and achieved planning permission for a replacement dwelling
- Due to lack of viable lenders had to submit further application for revised entrance
- Upon commencing working drawings decided to throw the whole design up and start from scratch
- Have new application ready to go, inclusive of the revised entrance (above), do not intend to cancelling current permission until this application has been approved
Question is; we would like to commence the earthworks for the lane before we head towards the winter months again, we have permission in place for this but could us starting that in any way hamper the new application?
Is the new dwelling on the same footprint as the original approval? If so, the Planning Authority should be able to treat the new application as a simple change of house type application, with an amended access arrangement.
If the new proposal isn't on the same footprint then things could be a lot more difficult as there would be a potential for two dwellings on the site. If the works are commenced on the first approval then you would have to seek a revocation of the original application before the second application could be approved, which would be time consuming.
New dwelling is on the same footprint, however significantly different and therefore could not be submitted as simply an amendment. Would anticipate having to seek a revocation of original application. I would like to get a start on the lane only at this stage but do not want to do so if it could be detrimental to new application.
If the dwelling is on the same footprint then you should require a revocation. A new application should be sufficient, depending on the design and suitability of the access. Are you planning to use both entrances?
The existing entrance will remain - servicing other properties. This was the issue with lenders, the shared lane scenario was a deal beaker for them all. Assume you mean 'should not'. The revised access was passed previously as an amendment to the original application, took longer to go through than the dwelling (in fairness the dwelling is not visible form the road)
Should not :)
Quote from: el_cuervo_fc on June 08, 2018, 03:05:05 PM
Quote from: lfdown2 on June 08, 2018, 02:56:56 PM
Quote from: el_cuervo_fc on June 08, 2018, 02:49:09 PM
Quote from: lfdown2 on June 08, 2018, 02:45:19 PM
Quote from: el_cuervo_fc on June 08, 2018, 02:40:25 PM
Quote from: lfdown2 on June 08, 2018, 02:34:51 PM
Anyone here have experience of the planning process in NI?
Wouldn't be a regular query:
- Applied and achieved planning permission for a replacement dwelling
- Due to lack of viable lenders had to submit further application for revised entrance
- Upon commencing working drawings decided to throw the whole design up and start from scratch
- Have new application ready to go, inclusive of the revised entrance (above), do not intend to cancelling current permission until this application has been approved
Question is; we would like to commence the earthworks for the lane before we head towards the winter months again, we have permission in place for this but could us starting that in any way hamper the new application?
Is the new dwelling on the same footprint as the original approval? If so, the Planning Authority should be able to treat the new application as a simple change of house type application, with an amended access arrangement.
If the new proposal isn't on the same footprint then things could be a lot more difficult as there would be a potential for two dwellings on the site. If the works are commenced on the first approval then you would have to seek a revocation of the original application before the second application could be approved, which would be time consuming.
New dwelling is on the same footprint, however significantly different and therefore could not be submitted as simply an amendment. Would anticipate having to seek a revocation of original application. I would like to get a start on the lane only at this stage but do not want to do so if it could be detrimental to new application.
If the dwelling is on the same footprint then you should require a revocation. A new application should be sufficient, depending on the design and suitability of the access. Are you planning to use both entrances?
The existing entrance will remain - servicing other properties. This was the issue with lenders, the shared lane scenario was a deal beaker for them all. Assume you mean 'should not'. The revised access was passed previously as an amendment to the original application, took longer to go through than the dwelling (in fairness the dwelling is not visible form the road)
Should not :)
Cheers for that, think i'll tear away.
I'm buying a new build, but a cursory inspection by the mortgage provider's surveyor has said that there's a tree within 3m of the house, it is too risky, and mortgage unlikely to be granted without guarantee from the builder and report on the tree.
We would ideally like to get rid of the tree, but it is currently under a tree protection order.
My question is whether anyone has experience of getting rid of trees, and whether that is inherently more risky to remove it than letting the tree continue as is if the tree report says it is healthy.
House is already built.
2 months in my new build and whilst things going well in the main, my garden now starting to resemble a forest of weeds. Whilst I have a responsibility to maintain it, surely there shou;dn't be that many weeds this early? 90% weeds and hardly any grass coming through. Hot weather hasn't either but do I have a case to get contractor to look at it again and maybe reseed?
Quote from: tintin25 on July 03, 2018, 04:02:57 PM
2 months in my new build and whilst things going well in the main, my garden now starting to resemble a forest of weeds. Whilst I have a responsibility to maintain it, surely there shou;dn't be that many weeds this early? 90% weeds and hardly any grass coming through. Hot weather hasn't either but do I have a case to get contractor to look at it again and maybe reseed?
You think it's bad now, wait until the rain starts! Approach the contractor about it - the worst he can do it tell you to f**k off.
Quote from: Rois on July 03, 2018, 03:45:29 PM
I'm buying a new build, but a cursory inspection by the mortgage provider's surveyor has said that there's a tree within 3m of the house, it is too risky, and mortgage unlikely to be granted without guarantee from the builder and report on the tree.
We would ideally like to get rid of the tree, but it is currently under a tree protection order.
My question is whether anyone has experience of getting rid of trees, and whether that is inherently more risky to remove it than letting the tree continue as is if the tree report says it is healthy.
House is already built.
Cut it down if it's causing you bother.
That was a while night of wind 🤐
Once it's gone it's gone
Get your own tree report done if you want extra cover to say it's dead/diseased if you're worried about comeback
Quote from: Rois on July 03, 2018, 03:45:29 PM
I'm buying a new build, but a cursory inspection by the mortgage provider's surveyor has said that there's a tree within 3m of the house, it is too risky, and mortgage unlikely to be granted without guarantee from the builder and report on the tree.
We would ideally like to get rid of the tree, but it is currently under a tree protection order.
My question is whether anyone has experience of getting rid of trees, and whether that is inherently more risky to remove it than letting the tree continue as is if the tree report says it is healthy.
House is already built.
Surely Building Control would have made a decision on the tree being close to the house, perhaps you could get a report from them.
The issues of the tree are the roots growing into the foundations and house as well as heading for the drains and drying out the ground under the foundations to cause subsidence.
You could apply to get the preservation order removed if you can show that it is a threat to the building.
Taking down the tree is no problem given the expertise and availability of tree surgeons.
Quote from: Owen Brannigan on July 03, 2018, 11:06:07 PM
Surely Building Control would have made a decision on the tree being close to the house, perhaps you could get a report from them.
The issues of the tree are the roots growing into the foundations and house as well as heading for the drains and drying out the ground under the foundations to cause subsidence.
You could apply to get the preservation order removed if you can show that it is a threat to the building.
Taking down the tree is no problem given the expertise and availability of tree surgeons.
Thanks - I am not sure if building control have signed it off yet but that's another thing to ask. At what stage does that happen? I don't want to just do something to tick a box for the mortgage people, if there's likely to be a big problem five years down the line then I would rather not buy the house.
Quote from: JimStynes on February 03, 2018, 04:28:12 PM
What way do I go about getting Septic tank, electric, water applications sent in? I can't find much online about it. Are there any other applications I could submit while waiting for planning to come back?
Plenty you could be getting on with as prices are rising and electric connection may take months:
Electric- fill out form which can be downloaded from NIE website. They will come back with price
Water- form on niwater.com website again to be downloaded and filled out. Will revert with price
Septic tank- consent to discharge must be obtained from DAERA. Application is £273. Whoever you are getting your septic tank from can fill this in for you. Viltra in Newry will do it free. Push for the lower % effluent quality if you can as it's cheaper a tank
There's a closed group on Facebook which is useful for anyone building: 'Self Build and Rennovations Ireland'
Also- form on BT Openreach website to be filled in if you want landline or broadband
Form below
https://www.formwize.com/run/survey3.cfm?idx=505d0408080c0a09
BT will leave you out ducting and a roll of cable- there may be a small charge for the duct/cable but not much
If there are poles to be put it there isn't a change for that and there is no charge for actual connection
Any plumbers on here?
Having bother with the immersion heater atm. Had the coil and the stat replaced recently but when I turn the switch on I was only getting hot water for 1-2 days max before the stat was tripped.
Plumber recommended disconnecting the immersion from the switch in hot press and put a plug on the end to connect it directly to a plug socket (to rule out a fault between switch in kitchen & hotpress switch), I did this he came out reset the stat and again we'd hot water for 1-2 days max before Stat tripped again.
I've now replaced the flex from immersion to Hot Press switch, everything has been tested by a spark and from an electrical perspective everything is working but I'm still not getting any hot water when the immersion is switched on. Besides replacing the stat is there anything else I should be getting the plumber to check when he comes out again?
The Electrician should have been able to test the coil by doing an Insulation resistance test on it. This would tell you if the element is broke or not.
Is it a pipe stat that trips or is it tripping something in your fuse box?
Quote from: laoislad on July 23, 2018, 04:25:15 PM
The Electrician should have been able to test the coil by doing an Insulation resistance test on it. This would tell you if the element is broke or not.
Is it a pipe stat that trips or is it tripping something in your fuse box?
LL nothing in the fusebox is being tripped, its the thermostat inside the immersion itself. Spark tested the element and can see the current going through it. Next step replace only the stat?
Quote from: BenDover on July 23, 2018, 09:56:59 PM
Quote from: laoislad on July 23, 2018, 04:25:15 PM
The Electrician should have been able to test the coil by doing an Insulation resistance test on it. This would tell you if the element is broke or not.
Is it a pipe stat that trips or is it tripping something in your fuse box?
LL nothing in the fusebox is being tripped, its the thermostat inside the immersion itself. Spark tested the element and can see the current going through it. Next step replace only the stat?
Ok so it's the the thermal cutout on the stat that's tripping?
What temperature is the stat set to? Have you tried turning it down a bit? Those stats wouldn't always be calibrated correctly so it could be making the water hotter than you think and it's tripping the thermal cutout.
Quote from: laoislad on July 23, 2018, 10:08:08 PM
Quote from: BenDover on July 23, 2018, 09:56:59 PM
Quote from: laoislad on July 23, 2018, 04:25:15 PM
The Electrician should have been able to test the coil by doing an Insulation resistance test on it. This would tell you if the element is broke or not.
Is it a pipe stat that trips or is it tripping something in your fuse box?
LL nothing in the fusebox is being tripped, its the thermostat inside the immersion itself. Spark tested the element and can see the current going through it. Next step replace only the stat?
Ok so it's the the thermal cutout on the stat that's tripping? I think this is the problem
What temperature is the stat set to? When I checked last night it was in between 60-70, what should it be at? Have you tried turning it down a bit? Those stats wouldn't always be calibrated correctly so it could be making the water hotter than you think and it's tripping the thermal cutout. atm I'm unable to use the reset button on the stat, but I'll get a replacement and try turning it down
Normal temp for hot water stat is 60 but it's an individual thing too but 60 is more than hot enough
Quote from: BenDover on July 24, 2018, 08:47:24 AM
Quote from: laoislad on July 23, 2018, 10:08:08 PM
Quote from: BenDover on July 23, 2018, 09:56:59 PM
Quote from: laoislad on July 23, 2018, 04:25:15 PM
The Electrician should have been able to test the coil by doing an Insulation resistance test on it. This would tell you if the element is broke or not.
Is it a pipe stat that trips or is it tripping something in your fuse box?
LL nothing in the fusebox is being tripped, its the thermostat inside the immersion itself. Spark tested the element and can see the current going through it. Next step replace only the stat?
Ok so it's the the thermal cutout on the stat that's tripping? I think this is the problem
What temperature is the stat set to? When I checked last night it was in between 60-70, what should it be at? Have you tried turning it down a bit? Those stats wouldn't always be calibrated correctly so it could be making the water hotter than you think and it's tripping the thermal cutout. atm I'm unable to use the reset button on the stat, but I'll get a replacement and try turning it down
Yeah first thing I would do is get another stat.
If you're lucky it was just a faulty stat if it's not the stat then you are going to have to investigate why the stat is tripping out out on the thermal cutout. The only way this will trip (if the stat isn't faulty) is that the temperature has reached the high limit.
Just a thought but would have maybe another source of heat? As in is the immersion element the only thing heating the water in the cylinder? Have you a back boiler or central heating that would also heat the tank?
Also a build up of limescale could be a cause.
Quote from: laoislad on July 24, 2018, 12:26:44 PM
Quote from: BenDover on July 24, 2018, 08:47:24 AM
Quote from: laoislad on July 23, 2018, 10:08:08 PM
Quote from: BenDover on July 23, 2018, 09:56:59 PM
Quote from: laoislad on July 23, 2018, 04:25:15 PM
The Electrician should have been able to test the coil by doing an Insulation resistance test on it. This would tell you if the element is broke or not.
Is it a pipe stat that trips or is it tripping something in your fuse box?
LL nothing in the fusebox is being tripped, its the thermostat inside the immersion itself. Spark tested the element and can see the current going through it. Next step replace only the stat?
Ok so it's the the thermal cutout on the stat that's tripping? I think this is the problem
What temperature is the stat set to? When I checked last night it was in between 60-70, what should it be at? Have you tried turning it down a bit? Those stats wouldn't always be calibrated correctly so it could be making the water hotter than you think and it's tripping the thermal cutout. atm I'm unable to use the reset button on the stat, but I'll get a replacement and try turning it down
Yeah first thing I would do is get another stat.
If you're lucky it was just a faulty stat if it's not the stat then you are going to have to investigate why the stat is tripping out out on the thermal cutout. The only way this will trip (if the stat isn't faulty) is that the temperature has reached the high limit.
Just a thought but would have maybe another source of heat? As in is the immersion element the only thing heating the water in the cylinder? Have you a back boiler or central heating that would also heat the tank?
Also a build up of limescale could be a cause.
Central heating also heats the water in the tank, but it has not been on at the same time that the immersion has been switched on.
Guys, anyone have any experience with new builds/snags and what you entitled to?
Noticed the wall above my window in the ensuite isn't 100% straight...only noticed when the blinds were put in. Now it's not the worst but I want plasterer to come back in and replaster. Was told by the builder that it was 'within tolerable' and they wouldn't be touching it. I have no doubt if I ever sold the property that another QS would highlight it and I'd have to bear the cost. Are they chancing it?
Putting up an extension. Architect has put in normal build 2 row block with insulation in cavity.
Was mentioned to me by someone to use breeze blocks and then batons with 100mm insulation on the inside. Would the breeblocks then need concrete poured into the holes?
Also mentioned was laying blocks on side then the external insulation. .
Any thoughts or advice on the above appreciated.
Quote from: tintin25 on August 28, 2018, 02:21:31 PM
Guys, anyone have any experience with new builds/snags and what you entitled to?
Noticed the wall above my window in the ensuite isn't 100% straight...only noticed when the blinds were put in. Now it's not the worst but I want plasterer to come back in and replaster. Was told by the builder that it was 'within tolerable' and they wouldn't be touching it. I have no doubt if I ever sold the property that another QS would highlight it and I'd have to bear the cost. Are they chancing it?
Hard to say without photos Tintin.