I'm putting in a Stanley Stove with a Back Boiler at home.
I've taken out the fireplace and the hearth is 23" wide and 18" deep - the Stove is 21" wide and 18 t" deep.
I want to have the stove flush in the fireplace, so as it stands it won't fit.
It's a standard semi-d and my neighbours fireplace obviously backs onto mine - is there much leeway between the two so I could kango out a bit more room? Has anyone done anything like this before?
Quote from: heffo on June 10, 2011, 07:45:13 PM
I'm putting in a Stanley Stove with a Back Boiler at home.
I've taken out the fireplace and the hearth is 23" wide and 18" deep - the Stove is 21" wide and 18 t" deep.
I want to have the stove flush in the fireplace, so as it stands it won't fit.
It's a standard semi-d and my neighbours fireplace obviously backs onto mine - is there much leeway between the two so I could kango out a bit more room? Has anyone done anything like this before?
Installed my own with a back boiler as well. What you need to do is come out toward the room not back the ways. You could lift your existing hearth and put down a new one or just tile out from your existing hearth.
I build a little tiled platform about an 1 1/2" high in the existing fireplace for the stove to sit on and took it out into the room about 2" from the chimney breast. This means the front of the stove is sitting about a 1/2" from the edge. I then built another hearth by tiling out about another 5" into the room to catch anything which might fall out of the stove when the door is open.
Quote from: Ulick on June 10, 2011, 08:10:52 PM
Quote from: heffo on June 10, 2011, 07:45:13 PM
I'm putting in a Stanley Stove with a Back Boiler at home.
I've taken out the fireplace and the hearth is 23" wide and 18" deep - the Stove is 21" wide and 18 t" deep.
I want to have the stove flush in the fireplace, so as it stands it won't fit.
It's a standard semi-d and my neighbours fireplace obviously backs onto mine - is there much leeway between the two so I could kango out a bit more room? Has anyone done anything like this before?
Installed my own with a back boiler as well. What you need to do is come out toward the room not back the ways. You could lift your existing hearth and put down a new one or just tile out from your existing hearth.
I build a little tiled platform about an 1 1/2" high in the existing fireplace for the stove to sit on and took it out into the room about 2" from the chimney breast. This means the front of the stove is sitting about a 1/2" from the edge. I then built another hearth by tiling out about another 5" into the room to catch anything which might fall out of the stove when the door is open.
Thanks lads.
I'm getting rid of the existing fireplace and I've bought a cream marble surround fireplace - this is 60" wide.
The gap between the legs of the new fireplace is 36" and the gap from base to mantle is 915mm/36" - this will sit on a black marble base.
So I'll have plenty of room - should I definitely put a tile or some form of stand for the Stove to sit on?
Should I knock out the sides and then put a tile surround/brickwork?
Sorry if these are stupid questions..
Quote from: Take Your Points on June 10, 2011, 09:05:03 PM
How do you plan to connect the stove flue to the chimney liners which are probably 200mm in diameter and the 150mm flue opening from the stove?
I assumed I had to buy a length of flue, no?
A tight permanent seal is needed to prevent flue gases including carbon monoxide from entering your room. A CO monitor was be a great idea in the room because your stove may combust soot from time to time and create CO. What thought have you given to ventilating the room to bring in fresh air to the room and then the stove?
TBH none at all! How much would a CO monitor cost?
Heffo, you could just get or cut an insert for the inside of the surround instead of knocking bricks out.
TYP, I didn't bother with chimney liners - reckon they're a bit of a con. If you've got a good draw they shouldn't be needed and besides any house built since the 60's must have a clay liner built into the chimney. What I did instead was got a mate to cut me a bit of 1/4" sheet metal with a hole in the middle for the flue and two little trap doors either side for cleaning. Then using a grinder and a Dremel I cut out a groove around the three sides of the fireplace and slid the plate into it. Then stuck my hand up through the trap doors and plastered fire cement around where the flue goes through the plate. Added another layer around the front where the plate meets the chimney breast for a perfect seal. I do have a CO2 alarm just in case though. Reckon I saved myself hundreds between liners and the £180 some bloke was looking to fit something similar. You do need a good metalworker though to cut the plate - mine went in perfect with practically no gap between the flue and plate at all.
Another idea, depending on the colour of your marble surround you could use hammered copper as an insert between your surround and the edges of the existing fireplace. i.e. cut it so the surround sits over the top of the copper plate, then you could bend it around the sides of the fireplace. Could look well.
Quote from: Ulick on June 10, 2011, 09:24:45 PM
Heffo, you could just get or cut an insert for the inside of the surround instead of knocking bricks out.
TYP, I didn't bother with chimney liners - reckon they're a bit of a con. If you've got a good draw they shouldn't be needed and besides any house built since the 60's must have a clay liner built into the chimney. What I did instead was got a mate to cut me a bit of 1/4" sheet metal with a hole in the middle for the flue and two little trap doors either side for cleaning. Then using a grinder and a Dremel I cut out a groove around the three sides of the fireplace and slid the plate into it. Then stuck my hand up through the trap doors and plastered fire cement around where the flue goes through the plate. Added another layer around the front where the plate meets the chimney breast for a perfect seal. I do have a CO2 alarm just in case though. Reckon I saved myself hundreds between liners and the £180 some bloke was looking to fit something similar. You do need a good metalworker though to cut the plate - mine went in perfect with practically no gap between the flue and plate at all.
The new surround looks like this - http://www.balrathdesigns.ie/img/fireplaces/Marble/Large/dublin-corbel.jpg - minus the insert.
For in behind the stove, what would you recommend? Is it easy to tile or should I be looking into some kind of brick or faux-brick?
A copper of some kind of metal insert could work alright
Cheers
I'll look into the seal in more detail.
Some f**king about there lads. Bit of fireboard cut to size and battened into underside of chimney flue. Cut a hole for the stove pipe, stick stovepipe thru as far into the chimney as it'll go and then seal with fire cement around the join. Tenner all in.
Quote from: Tony Baloney on June 10, 2011, 10:06:49 PM
Some f**king about there lads. Bit of fireboard cut to size and battened into underside of chimney flue. Cut a hole for the stove pipe, stick stovepipe thru as far into the chimney as it'll go and then seal with fire cement around the join. Tenner all in.
Has that worked before for you Tony??
Quote from: heffo on June 10, 2011, 10:11:33 PM
Quote from: Tony Baloney on June 10, 2011, 10:06:49 PM
Some f**king about there lads. Bit of fireboard cut to size and battened into underside of chimney flue. Cut a hole for the stove pipe, stick stovepipe thru as far into the chimney as it'll go and then seal with fire cement around the join. Tenner all in.
Has that worked before for you Tony??
Aye but suppose depends on what you have to deal with. If you are retrofitting into existing fireplace it might be tougher to get a good seal on it. The opening for my stove is about 3' square.
Edit - something like TYPs top pic there except with a sandstone hearth.
Quote from: Take Your Points on June 10, 2011, 10:16:56 PM
Is this the look you are going for but with a marble surround............
(http://i54.tinypic.com/mizbs9.jpg)
You might have to do this...........
(http://i55.tinypic.com/11ikdgj.jpg)
Thats what I'm looking for alright Tony - might be a stupid question but would I need to skim the inside of the hearth (red bit on first pic) to get it looking like that?
Quote from: Tony Baloney on June 10, 2011, 10:19:26 PM
Quote from: heffo on June 10, 2011, 10:11:33 PM
Quote from: Tony Baloney on June 10, 2011, 10:06:49 PM
Some f**king about there lads. Bit of fireboard cut to size and battened into underside of chimney flue. Cut a hole for the stove pipe, stick stovepipe thru as far into the chimney as it'll go and then seal with fire cement around the join. Tenner all in.
Has that worked before for you Tony??
Aye but suppose depends on what you have to deal with. If you are retrofitting into existing fireplace it might be tougher to get a good seal on it. The opening for my stove is about 3' square.
Edit - something like TYPs top pic there except with a sandstone hearth.
I'm retrofitting into an existing fireplace alright - build mid 70's
The opening for my stove is about 3' square. -> Are you referring to the size of the oblong adopter coming out of the top of the stove?
Quote from: heffo on June 10, 2011, 10:20:27 PM
Quote from: Take Your Points on June 10, 2011, 10:16:56 PM
Is this the look you are going for but with a marble surround............
(http://i54.tinypic.com/mizbs9.jpg)
You might have to do this...........
(http://i55.tinypic.com/11ikdgj.jpg)
Thats what I'm looking for alright Tony - might be a stupid question but would I need to skim the inside of the hearth (red bit on first pic) to get it looking like that?
Aye the inside of ours is skimmed but just painted same colour as room. Might paint an accent colour in future. Plasterer used a bit of a rougher skim though as he said a fine skim would crack up with the heat.
So skimming inside with a rough coat is option 1.
What about if I wanted to get a load of old tiles either mosiac or from a salvage yard - would I still need to skim it to tile over?
Can you get a roll of stuff that looks like brickwork that you can stick on if you wanted?
Quote from: heffo on June 10, 2011, 10:30:51 PM
So skimming inside with a rough coat is option 1.
What about if I wanted to get a load of old tiles either mosiac or from a salvage yard - would I still need to skim it to tile over?
Can you get a roll of stuff that looks like brickwork that you can stick on if you wanted?
Entirely personal choice for the finish. If finishing in tiles you could just tile onto the scratch coat. Wouldn't both skimming if tiling.
Quote from: Tony Baloney on June 10, 2011, 10:36:40 PM
Quote from: heffo on June 10, 2011, 10:30:51 PM
So skimming inside with a rough coat is option 1.
What about if I wanted to get a load of old tiles either mosiac or from a salvage yard - would I still need to skim it to tile over?
Can you get a roll of stuff that looks like brickwork that you can stick on if you wanted?
Entirely personal choice for the finish. If finishing in tiles you could just tile onto the scratch coat. Wouldn't both skimming if tiling.
I can see the outline of the brick inside the hearth - does that mean there is no scratch coat??
Quote from: heffo on June 10, 2011, 10:38:46 PM
Quote from: Tony Baloney on June 10, 2011, 10:36:40 PM
Quote from: heffo on June 10, 2011, 10:30:51 PM
So skimming inside with a rough coat is option 1.
What about if I wanted to get a load of old tiles either mosiac or from a salvage yard - would I still need to skim it to tile over?
Can you get a roll of stuff that looks like brickwork that you can stick on if you wanted?
Entirely personal choice for the finish. If finishing in tiles you could just tile onto the scratch coat. Wouldn't both skimming if tiling.
I can see the outline of the brick inside the hearth - does that mean there is no scratch coat??
If the bricks are nice can you not clean them up and use them? If not forget talk of a scratchcoat, you could tile on anything.
Quote from: Tony Baloney on June 10, 2011, 10:06:49 PM
Some f**king about there lads. Bit of fireboard cut to size and battened into underside of chimney flue. Cut a hole for the stove pipe, stick stovepipe thru as far into the chimney as it'll go and then seal with fire cement around the join. Tenner all in.
Ah, but you can't clean the chimney that way.
Quote from: Tony Baloney on June 10, 2011, 10:48:42 PM
Quote from: heffo on June 10, 2011, 10:38:46 PM
Quote from: Tony Baloney on June 10, 2011, 10:36:40 PM
Quote from: heffo on June 10, 2011, 10:30:51 PM
So skimming inside with a rough coat is option 1.
What about if I wanted to get a load of old tiles either mosiac or from a salvage yard - would I still need to skim it to tile over?
Can you get a roll of stuff that looks like brickwork that you can stick on if you wanted?
Entirely personal choice for the finish. If finishing in tiles you could just tile onto the scratch coat. Wouldn't both skimming if tiling.
I can see the outline of the brick inside the hearth - does that mean there is no scratch coat??
If the bricks are nice can you not clean them up and use them? If not forget talk of a scratchcoat, you could tile on anything.
The bricks are in decent shape alright but there is a hole on the right hand side pipes (going to the old gas boiler I assume)
Quote from: Ulick on June 10, 2011, 10:50:05 PM
Quote from: Tony Baloney on June 10, 2011, 10:06:49 PM
Some f**king about there lads. Bit of fireboard cut to size and battened into underside of chimney flue. Cut a hole for the stove pipe, stick stovepipe thru as far into the chimney as it'll go and then seal with fire cement around the join. Tenner all in.
Ah, but you can't clean the chimney that way.
The sweep has already cleaned it from inside the stove. It's not ideal but he gets paid to worry about it. You went for the full engineering solution!
This is mine. I just used a stone tile over the top of a rough skim. The only thing to look out for is to get an expandable grout.
(http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/154469_479411944960_639549960_5703234_4535067_n.jpg)
Quote from: Ulick on June 10, 2011, 11:05:03 PM
This is mine. I just used a stone tile over the top of a rough skim. The only thing to look out for is to get an expandable grout.
(http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/154469_479411944960_639549960_5703234_4535067_n.jpg)
Very nice Ulick - do you need an expandable grout because of the heat and if so, do you need this for all types of tiles?
Quote from: Tony Baloney on June 10, 2011, 11:04:51 PM
The sweep has already cleaned it from inside the stove. It's not ideal but he gets paid to worry about it. You went for the full engineering solution!
Aye, had to do a lot of research to be confident I was doing it right as most people I got quotes from were telling me how essential it was I got chimney liners and all that in case I poisoned the whole family. Quare job in the winter, glad I went for it in the end. We have that one in the kitchen and an open fire in the living room. Built myself a wood store in the back garden for seasoning logs after that and then the wife got me a chain saw. Saving a clean fortune now just burning old logs and pallets.
Quote from: heffo on June 10, 2011, 11:10:13 PM
Very nice Ulick - do you need an expandable grout because of the heat and if so, do you need this for all types of tiles?
Yeah, just for the heat. All tiles as far as I know, even ceramic are cured in a kiln so there shouldn't be any problems with them.
Quote from: Ulick on June 10, 2011, 11:14:31 PM
Quote from: heffo on June 10, 2011, 11:10:13 PM
Very nice Ulick - do you need an expandable grout because of the heat and if so, do you need this for all types of tiles?
Yeah, just for the heat. All tiles as far as I know, even ceramic are cured in a kiln so there shouldn't be any problems with them.
Good stuff cheers.
Quote from: Ulick on June 10, 2011, 11:11:45 PM
Quote from: Tony Baloney on June 10, 2011, 11:04:51 PM
The sweep has already cleaned it from inside the stove. It's not ideal but he gets paid to worry about it. You went for the full engineering solution!
Aye, had to do a lot of research to be confident I was doing it right as most people I got quotes from were telling me how essential it was I got chimney liners and all that in case I poisoned the whole family. Quare job in the winter, glad I went for it in the end. We have that one in the kitchen and an open fire in the living room. Built myself a wood store in the back garden for seasoning logs after that and then the wife got me a chain saw. Saving a clean fortune now just burning old logs and pallets.
The father in law chops trees down round the farm and seasons the wood so always a plentiful supply.
You'll have competition for pallets this time of year :D
Quote from: Ulick on June 10, 2011, 11:11:45 PM
Quote from: Tony Baloney on June 10, 2011, 11:04:51 PM
The sweep has already cleaned it from inside the stove. It's not ideal but he gets paid to worry about it. You went for the full engineering solution!
Aye, had to do a lot of research to be confident I was doing it right as most people I got quotes from were telling me how essential it was I got chimney liners and all that in case I poisoned the whole family. Quare job in the winter, glad I went for it in the end. We have that one in the kitchen and an open fire in the living room. Built myself a wood store in the back garden for seasoning logs after that and then the wife got me a chain saw. Saving a clean fortune now just burning old logs and pallets.
We were told all the auld bollix about liners too and with the price of metal they were stupid money so didn't bother. When the stove was installed and the fire was sparked up and smoke started belching into the living room. Thought f**k there isn't much draw here. Tried again. Same.
Got the brother in law round with his rods and started rodding the chimney. Hit something hard - had to pull the stove back out again and literally a barrow load of rubble fell out of the chimney. Cnut of a builder had the chimney full of shit! Moral of the story is to clean the chimney first!
How are you fixed for insurance if the chimney lining doesn't meet specification and you ever have to make a claim? I know somebody who spent a fortune on liners on a Victorian two-storey house with attic, his rationale being that he didn't want to take chances with insurance.
Up here you can get a CORGI certified plumber/heating engineer out to inspect the installation or you could request building control to have a look. I actually had a jobsworth from local building control trying to tell me I needed approval from them (and she tried to tell me I needed to install a liner) while she was in to inspect something else. However when I pointed out to her that I hadn't changed the purpose and use of the fireplace and chimney (I replaced a fire with stove) and showed her the legislation online, she accepted it was none of her business.
Quote from: Take Your Points on June 10, 2011, 11:52:30 PM
Flue liners are only really necessary where the chimney is not already lined. The very old brick built flues are liable to leak flue gases out or build up tar deposits on the rough inner surfaces. You find them in house built mostly pre 1950's.
Burning wood in your stoves will cause tar deposits if you don't let the stoves run hot enough. However, pallets will be grand if little in terms of heat and low tar, fresh wood causes most bother, our continental cousins usually season the wood for at least one year but cut it to length when green. The harder the wood, the greater the heat produced. Tar deposits can produce carbon monoxide but the major problem is a chimney fire. It can be avoided by using some of the products now on the market.
http://www.fluesystems.com/sundries/info/cleaning_log.htm (http://www.fluesystems.com/sundries/info/cleaning_log.htm)
typ you have hit the nail.. tar deposits are a serious problem with these type of stoves especially if you intend burning any shite you can get your hands on. i gathered loads of old logs and bigs roots of trees they mightened have been the dryest and in the beginning my stove was unreal i was able to keep a kettle of hot water on it.. gradually it got poorer until one evening i lit it and the next i knew smoke alarms all over the house were going off. i tried rodding out the chimney but found it difficult to get to push the brushes out the top. i got on the roof and looked into the chimney.. it was almost closed the hole was about the size of a sloither :o i had to get a lenght of steel rod and hammer the tar out of my liners i removed 3 builders buckets of solid tar. the stove is ok now back to her best but once a week i go for a serious burnout- dry pallets and some coal and blow the flames as hard as she'll go. i'm getting a co alarm
Quote from: Ulick on June 11, 2011, 11:22:11 AM
Up here you can get a CORGI certified plumber/heating engineer out to inspect the installation or you could request building control to have a look. I actually had a jobsworth from local building control trying to tell me I needed approval from them (and she tried to tell me I needed to install a liner) while she was in to inspect something else. However when I pointed out to her that I hadn't changed the purpose and use of the fireplace and chimney (I replaced a fire with stove) and showed her the legislation online, she accepted it was none of her business.
I was just wondering how you'd be fixed, though, in the event of an insurance claim if your installation wasn't certified and wasn't in compliance with regulations, even if it was actually safer. Insurance companies don't need a second chance to turn down a claim and it'd be tough if your house burned down and you didn't get a penny.
Does any one know anything or have installed at Boru Double Sided Boiler Stove??? I think its the only "double sided" stove on the market with a back boiler for heating water & rads. I think there are made in Tipp.
If any one has any information on them or its capabilities it would be very much appreciated!! I `m thinking of putting one into an extension at present.
Quote from: Take Your Points on June 15, 2011, 08:30:01 PM
http://www.woodburningstovesni.co.uk/products/boru-stoves-with-back-boiler (http://www.woodburningstovesni.co.uk/products/boru-stoves-with-back-boiler)
As a good Tyrone man you should know that Kildress Plumbing supplies is the centre for stoves. They have a great range of stoves for all purposes and budgets.
What sort of cut are you on sir?
Lads,
Thinking of having a wood burning stove put it, doing a bit of work on knocking through kitchen and second living area, to open it all up.
Was thinking of a small one in the corner of the room.
Does any one know the regs for the chimney etc?
Anything to avoid or should look out for?
Quote from: Take Your Points on June 15, 2011, 08:30:01 PM
http://www.woodburningstovesni.co.uk/products/boru-stoves-with-back-boiler (http://www.woodburningstovesni.co.uk/products/boru-stoves-with-back-boiler)
As a good Tyrone man you should know that Kildress Plumbing supplies is the centre for stoves. They have a great range of stoves for all purposes and budgets.
Thanks very much, must get them to give me a price!!!
I'm looking at putting in either a boru carraig mor 20kw or a olymberyl olive. Has anyone any experience of these? We have 6 single 2m rads, 1no 2m towel rad & 1no 2m double rad. We want the back burner to heat the rooms (trying to use minimal oil). We've plenty of turf & sticks but want to make sure we're getting something suitable & reliable
Any sensible comments/suggestions appreciated
Got mine finally finished - used skamolex boards for inside the hearth with a black granite base.
Thanks for the help lads.
any pictures
Looking at putting in a stove.
From what I have seen Stanley seem to be very popular. Will be used only for room heat. Based on room and where tank is, it's probably not feasible to go for the backboiler option?
Couple of questions,
What model do any of you have, advantages etc?
In regards of the output. How accurate are the calculations ? Or is this a sales tool to sell higher spec stoves?
Advised to just use an adapter to convert 8" to 6" , with no liner most likely needed
Any advice gladly accepted
Quote from: Bensars on October 21, 2013, 08:06:48 PM
Looking at putting in a stove.
From what I have seen Stanley seem to be very popular. Will be used only for room heat. Based on room and where tank is, it's probably not feasible to go for the backboiler option?
Couple of questions,
What model do any of you have, advantages etc?
In regards of the output. How accurate are the calculations ? Or is this a sales tool to sell higher spec stoves?
Advised to just use an adapter to convert 8" to 6" , with no liner most likely needed
Any advice gladly accepted
Be careful if you're putting the flu through an existing ceiling as I was told you'd need a lined flu approx 18 inches off either side of the plaster board. Speak to building control on this as you wouldn't want the house burnt down like a lad I know.
Looking at installing a Stanley Soilis F650 solid fuel stove. Similar to the Aoife only less traditional looking. Only issue I have is the ash tray is very small compared to the traditional types - not even an inch thick. No problem with emptying everyday but will it even last a day? Could it choke the air supply too when full?
Quote from: upmonaghansayswe on September 28, 2020, 02:19:59 PM
Looking at installing a Stanley Soilis F650 solid fuel stove. Similar to the Aoife only less traditional looking. Only issue I have is the ash tray is very small compared to the traditional types - not even an inch thick. No problem with emptying everyday but will it even last a day? Could it choke the air supply too when full?
Depends what you are burning. There's a fair bit of ash created burning turf
A lot less with well seasoned timber
Quote from: giveherlong on September 28, 2020, 02:36:42 PM
Quote from: upmonaghansayswe on September 28, 2020, 02:19:59 PM
Looking at installing a Stanley Soilis F650 solid fuel stove. Similar to the Aoife only less traditional looking. Only issue I have is the ash tray is very small compared to the traditional types - not even an inch thick. No problem with emptying everyday but will it even last a day? Could it choke the air supply too when full?
Depends what you are burning. There's a fair bit of ash created burning turf
A lot less with well seasoned timber
True. Wouldn't have turf - but like a few briquettes at the start to get the heat going. Sticks and some coal otherwise. From our inset stove at home which would burn the same fuel, you would easily half fill a large tray each day. Especially thinking of cold weekends when you want it ticking over all day ideally not having to empty it.
I'll check out the air supply. It densest have the 'wheel' so maybe the air wont get cut off if the tray is full..
Optional Extras
External air supply kit - directs air from the outside into the stove to aid efficient combustion
That's from the Stanley website on the f650
I would go for the external supply if you can. Better control over the combustion
You will have 2 air controls on this set up. Usually a lever for the air supply from room and a knob for the thermostat controlling the external air supply
Good point - will look into that. Thanks