Car Problems!!

Started by downgirl, January 04, 2009, 08:34:55 PM

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Jim_Murphy_74

Quote from: tyrone girl on April 26, 2018, 11:47:12 AM
Have done that at the weekend twice. Went up and down the motorway on friday night and sunday.

I'm no expert but a word of warning that you should check error code first.   A lad at work had a Skoda showing similar issues.  He presumed EGR was at fault and did the hard driving trick.  Turned out car was going into limp mode because the turbo had broken.  Hard driving caused a piece of turbo to drive into engine and things went downhill quick.

/Jim.

macdanger2

You can get an opcom diagnostic reader for Opels on eBay for ~€45. You just plug it in and it gives you a read out including fault codes, very simple to use. If you're planning on keeping the car, it might be worth getting one. You can also get the fault codes without a reader: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=9hHhL6-okfc Once you have the codes, put them into Google and you should get a reasonable idea

I have a vectra, had to do the egr valve on it ~18 months back, pretty straight forward to do if you're anyway handy or know someone who is, loads of videos on YouTube showing you how. It seems to be a common enough problem with Opels but relatively easy to fix.

Owen Brannigan

Get it to someone with a diag machine asap and find out the fault before you do damage to your engine.

theskull1

Quote from: macdanger2 on April 26, 2018, 04:00:03 PM
I have a vectra, had to do the egr valve on it ~18 months back, pretty straight forward to do if you're anyway handy or know someone who is, loads of videos on YouTube showing you how. It seems to be a common enough problem with Opels but relatively easy to fix.

+1 on cleaning the EGR

Also I'd register on a Vauxhall owners forum ... and you'll more than likely see the common gremlins for your engine and the workarounds if there are any. Your DPF will also be clogging up so look up info on that as well. I've got away with putting drilling 3 or 4 holes through a Vauxhall DPF using a cheap long SDS drill bit and the engine management didn't complain (after several people said it wouldn't work) ... completely liberated the car and saved me removing/remapping or replacing it. Put 220K miles on that car without a big ticket repair being needed... so as much as it was annoying .... it didn't let me down.
It's a lot easier to sing karaoke than to sing opera

omaghjoe

Quote from: north_antrim_hound on October 27, 2017, 01:52:07 AM
Quote from: omaghjoe on October 26, 2017, 06:42:22 PM
The persistence of archaic coolant system designs that consistently fail in motor vehicles bugs my shite.

Electric pump, electric fan, do away with the thermostat. Vary the speed of pump dependant on coolant temperature (you could even factor in ambient and car speed if you want to get really fancy)
Cars will heat up faster, cool down quicker and you have to have to worry about an engine overheating when its not even running, you could possibly even do away with fan and radiator if you do your sums right by incorporating a simple & strategically placed heat exchanger into the block

The coolant system is a heat transfer system
The rate of heat transfer is dictated by water pumps that is geared to cater for  heat generation at a given RPM to reach a radiator exposed to Cool air
With cylinder combust temps upwards of 600 degrees it's feat of engineering to keep them cooled
Charge air coolers assist most cooling systems now as well
I think your trying to recreate the wheel here

There are too many variables for it to cool accurately or efficiently. Mainly... the ambient temp varies widely, and air flow varies at speed so consequently this cannot be correlated to RPM given gearing ratios.
Factor in varying system pressures flows over time and it turns into a game of roulette with the thermostat acting as a fail save.
Not to mention the reason most of them fail to do their job... they don't work very well in slow traffic and don't work at all when the engine is stopped.
Electric coolant pumps have been used in motorsport for years.

snoopdog

Quote from: theskull1 on April 26, 2018, 05:50:17 PM
Quote from: macdanger2 on April 26, 2018, 04:00:03 PM
I have a vectra, had to do the egr valve on it ~18 months back, pretty straight forward to do if you're anyway handy or know someone who is, loads of videos on YouTube showing you how. It seems to be a common enough problem with Opels but relatively easy to fix.

+1 on cleaning the EGR

Also I'd register on a Vauxhall owners forum ... and you'll more than likely see the common gremlins for your engine and the workarounds if there are any. Your DPF will also be clogging up so look up info on that as well. I've got away with putting drilling 3 or 4 holes through a Vauxhall DPF using a cheap long SDS drill bit and the engine management didn't complain (after several people said it wouldn't work) ... completely liberated the car and saved me removing/remapping or replacing it. Put 220K miles on that car without a big ticket repair being needed... so as much as it was annoying .... it didn't let me down.
I have a Hyundai Santa fe that would just die on me but 10 mins later would start as long as i hadnt drained the battery trying. Turned out to be sensor issues. Crank sensor was go ne. No error message came up. As the sensor was faulty any heat at all the sensor would kill the engine. On the fecking M50 twice.

tyrone girl

A girl in works hubby just plugged it into the fault reader that he has and its showing no fault but he said he could hear something not right and it could be the diesel im putting in. Cant see it though.

Owen Brannigan

Quote from: tyrone girl on April 27, 2018, 04:12:30 PM
A girl in works hubby just plugged it into the fault reader that he has and its showing no fault but he said he could hear something not right and it could be the diesel im putting in. Cant see it though.

Where are you buying the diesel?

Get the diesel filter checked to see if you have water in the diesel.  If possible drain out the diesel and buy some premium diesel.

WeeDonns

MOT question & didn't want to start a new thread;
I want to get a vintage car MOT'd for the summer. Soonest date I can get online is 3 weeks away..

Any time I've left a car at the mechanics to get MOT'd they've managed to get a slot pretty soon.

Do mechanics have some sort of "direct line"  ;) to get customers cars in that week, or are they just calling up each morning for cancellation slots?

screenexile

Quote from: WeeDonns on May 15, 2018, 04:01:31 PM
MOT question & didn't want to start a new thread;
I want to get a vintage car MOT'd for the summer. Soonest date I can get online is 3 weeks away..

Any time I've left a car at the mechanics to get MOT'd they've managed to get a slot pretty soon.

Do mechanics have some sort of "direct line"  ;) to get customers cars in that week, or are they just calling up each morning for cancellation slots?

If you go to the online site first thing in the morning all the cancellation slots are released.

Aristo 60

What time is first thing in the morning to derry wans?

trueblue1234

Not so much a problem as such, But I have a Reg on my old vehicle that I want to transfer over onto my new car. However the new car has a private plate so I wanted to move it onto a certificate and then sell it. It's been valued at £400.

Does anyone know do I have to do this in two stages? (Move the private plate onto a certificate first and get the replacement reg/ V5 before moving the plate of my old car onto my new car). Or can it be done all in the one move i.e - request the private plate to be moved onto a certificate and my old reg onto my new car all together in the one move (And the one £80 payment!!).

Not sure if I'm explaining myself right!!  :-\
Grammar: the difference between knowing your shit

Ambrose

A private plate 'valued' at £400 is worth very little in real terms, the company who valued it won't buy it from you but will sell it on your behalf on commission. Unless it is meaning to you or car specific I'd let it go. If you really want to hold on to it, retention now lasts for 10 years and includes the forward transfer fee.
You can't live off history and tradition forever

trueblue1234

Cheers for that. I was going to be moving my old plate onto the new car anyway so thought if there's a way of just putting the reg onto a certificate and then leaving it with one of the selling companies to try and get the money for it. But might be more hassle than it's worth then. The reg doesn't have any connection with me which is why I was going to sell it.
Grammar: the difference between knowing your shit

tbrick18

Bitof an issue with a ford galaxy (2008). The bonnet release cable has snapped, somewhere close to the bonnet as the cable can be pulled back freely from where the release  lever is at inside the car.

Anyone know how to get the bonnet open?