D.I.Y

[gerrykeegan]

I've finally cracked and agreed to strip two rooms of wallpaper. It's been there 16 years +.
1. hire a machine...I've read it can take lumps out of wall
2. Spray water and some washing up liquid on to paper leave soak and start scraping.
3. Leave well enough alone...is not an option
Please help

[illdecide]

Option 4...pay someone to do it for you...Sorted.

[BenDover]

I've finally cracked and agreed to strip two rooms of wallpaper. It's been there 16 years +.
1. hire a machine...I've read it can take lumps out of wall
2. Spray water and some washing up liquid on to paper leave soak and start scraping.
3. Leave well enough alone...is not an option
Please help

use a steam machine

[Milltown Row2]

Just paper over it!

I used to laugh when we stripped the walls in my mums house, it was like going back in time when remembering the different wallpaper that used to be up!

[trailer]

I've finally cracked and agreed to strip two rooms of wallpaper. It's been there 16 years +.
1. hire a machine...I've read it can take lumps out of wall
2. Spray water and some washing up liquid on to paper leave soak and start scraping.
3. Leave well enough alone...is not an option
Please help

Hot water and washing up liquid. Comes off handy enough once you start it. It's one of them jobs that sounds worse than it actually is.

[Milltown Row2]

Before it cost me a few bob, no hot water in house, oil based heating, radiators on and pumping, water tank in attic full, not sure if thermostat on boiler is the problem, but video mentions diverter valve?

Can't locate it, not in hot press area I don't think or at piping under stairs. Any other locations?

Been trying to get a plumber, feck any plumber for past few months for few jobs around the house, but availability is few and far between

[theskull1]

Its was the motorized valve when I had the same symptoms ..... have you something like this on the pipework going into the hot water tank?

https://www.screwfix.com/p/honeywell-home-40003916-001-2-port-v4043h-replacement-powerhead/326fv

Was an easy fix (no plumber required) in my case

## Before I got my hands on the replacement part I remember removing it from the pipework so I could manually open the valve to allow hot water into the tank but you'll need to be mindful about closing it again at some point when the water is hot enough (take picture of the close position before doing it) 

[johnnycool]

Its was the motorized valve when I had the same symptoms ..... have you something like this on the pipework going into the hot water tank?

https://www.screwfix.com/p/honeywell-home-40003916-001-2-port-v4043h-replacement-powerhead/326fv

Was an easy fix (no plumber required) in my case

## Before I got my hands on the replacement part I remember removing it from the pipework so I could manually open the valve to allow hot water into the tank but you'll need to be mindful about closing it again at some point when the water is hot enough (take picture of the close position before doing it) 

There's a wee manual override switch at the bottom of those, which you can force it open with.

If that doesn't work there's also a pump that may not be working as they can stick every once in a while. You can release them with a bit of a thump or change the speed setting, but ultimately it'll need changed.

[Milltown Row2]

Its was the motorized valve when I had the same symptoms ..... have you something like this on the pipework going into the hot water tank?

https://www.screwfix.com/p/honeywell-home-40003916-001-2-port-v4043h-replacement-powerhead/326fv

Was an easy fix (no plumber required) in my case

## Before I got my hands on the replacement part I remember removing it from the pipework so I could manually open the valve to allow hot water into the tank but you'll need to be mindful about closing it again at some point when the water is hot enough (take picture of the close position before doing it) 

Not sure, that fecker was up at the streak of dawn using all the water before waking me up to have a look, she sort of noticed last night saying the water was not as warm for he bath, but the heat came on and I was saying should be grand!!

There is water in the tank up in the loft

I can't find where that valve would go tbh, could it be in the garage where the boiler would be? Did a quick check before leaving for work! Nothing jumped out at me to resemble that.

Johnny that image looks the pump at boiler in garage. I'll look later

Sure an aul country cold shower does ya no harm 

[Last Man]

So you have heat in the rads but no HW?

[sensethetone]

Danfoss is sometimes a motorised valve manufacturer, if you photograph the serial numbers it's a reference to purchase replacements.

The electrical part alone should be what needs replaced but most times you have to buy the mechanical part, it should need changed.

[Milltown Row2]

So you have heat in the rads but no HW?

Aye, rads pumping hot, The boiler in fairness hasn't had a check up in a few years, some parts were replaced a while back, was just looking a quick temp fix till I get someone to have a quick assessment on it, she's said someone might call this evening but I'll not hold my breath

[trueblue1234]

So you have heat in the rads but no HW?

Aye, rads pumping hot, The boiler in fairness hasn't had a check up in a few years, some parts were replaced a while back, was just looking a quick temp fix till I get someone to have a quick assessment on it, she's said someone might call this evening but I'll not hold my breath

If heating working don't think it's a boiler issue as it's obviously firing. More likely a motorised value or pump issue.
We have an issue with a pump every winter. Pump was clogged as heating wasn't on in house over summer and had to remove and manually spin to release it as it had seized. Easy to do, Allan keys to remove and then screwdriver to spin the pump/ loosen it.

*Edit Make sure water shut off before removing tho!!

[armaghniac]

Danfoss is sometimes a motorised valve manufacturer, if you photograph the serial numbers it's a reference to purchase replacements.

The electrical part alone should be what needs replaced but most times you have to buy the mechanical part, it should need changed.

Indeed, I was able to get a new valve head on Amazon, having identified the old one. That wasn't the problem though, the valve itself was stuck.

[Last Man]

So you have heat in the rads but no HW?

Aye, rads pumping hot, The boiler in fairness hasn't had a check up in a few years, some parts were replaced a while back, was just looking a quick temp fix till I get someone to have a quick assessment on it, she's said someone might call this evening but I'll not hold my breath

Is your heating timer 2 channel i.e. separate buttons for HW and heating? If so there is a motorised valve somewhere. If your copper cylinder is upstairs it usually would be prioritised by convection (along with the upstairs rads) unless your motorised valve is foobarred which seems most likely at this stage.