Couldn't find a thread for DIY Questions but had a question for any sparks out there. My Dog has chewed through an external wire going to outdoor lights along the fence - only noticed when I switched on the lights from the garage light switch and then flicked on before all blowing. However, it has also meant all the plug in the garage - the electric garage door and the internal garage light are all now not working.
There is no fusebox in the garage that I can see - from the house there is a fusebox with a fuse slot labelled Garage supply. It had a 30A fuse which I replaced. This had no effect on fixing the power to the garage - I then noticed beside a plug in the garage a spur fuse box which had a 13A fuse - I then replaced it but it still had no effect in fixing the problem.
Is there something else I should be checking? Probably best just to get an electrician out but thought it should be something straightforward
First off anything to do with electricity should never be in a DIY thread...!
Are you sure the cable your dog chewed is supplying the lights and it's not the main power to the shed?
When you say you replaced the fuse in the board does that mean you still have the old type fuses? Are you sure this fuse is good?
Have you anyway of checking if there is power on the outgoing side of the fuse?
Stock answer is get an electrician.
I hope the dog is not affected and you have isolated the damaged wore before changing the fuses.
You may also have a MCB or trip on your system which is continuing to block the electrical flow as it may be leaking to earth or was not reset after the incident.
If the damaged wires are still present and shorting the circuit then it will continue to blow fuse on plugs and lights circuit.
Do you have a board with breakers and fuses or just old style fuses?
Check if you have a smaller version of this in the garage by tracing the cable from the mains fuse board to the garage.
It would be great if you could get or borrow a detector like:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/DIGIFLEX-Voltage-Detector-90V-1000V-Tester/dp/B004B9C7N4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495461257&sr=8-2&keywords=mains+electric+detector (https://www.amazon.co.uk/DIGIFLEX-Voltage-Detector-90V-1000V-Tester/dp/B004B9C7N4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495461257&sr=8-2&keywords=mains+electric+detector)
You could use it to check where the cables are live.
Quote from: Owen Brannigan on May 22, 2017, 02:55:05 PM
If the damaged wires are still present and shorting the circuit then it will continue to blow fuse on plugs and lights circuit.
Do you have a board with breakers and fuses or just old style fuses?
Check if you have a smaller version of this in the garage by tracing the cable from the mains fuse board to the garage.
It would be great if you could get or borrow a detector like:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/DIGIFLEX-Voltage-Detector-90V-1000V-Tester/dp/B004B9C7N4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495461257&sr=8-2&keywords=mains+electric+detector (https://www.amazon.co.uk/DIGIFLEX-Voltage-Detector-90V-1000V-Tester/dp/B004B9C7N4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495461257&sr=8-2&keywords=mains+electric+detector)
You could use it to check where the cables are live.
Yeah dog is fine - there was no power going to the outdoor lights at the time. You could be right on the wire where it was chewed being the issue and it is just shorting any new fuse. I think getting an electrician is the best bet - it's not really something I want to DIY which probably wasn't the greatest thread title - if it was just replacing fuses I could do that - anything more than that would get a professional
Quote from: Owen Brannigan on May 22, 2017, 02:55:05 PM
If the damaged wires are still present and shorting the circuit then it will continue to blow fuse on plugs and lights circuit.
Do you have a board with breakers and fuses or just old style fuses?
Check if you have a smaller version of this in the garage by tracing the cable from the mains fuse board to the garage.
It would be great if you could get or borrow a detector like:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/DIGIFLEX-Voltage-Detector-90V-1000V-Tester/dp/B004B9C7N4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495461257&sr=8-2&keywords=mains+electric+detector (https://www.amazon.co.uk/DIGIFLEX-Voltage-Detector-90V-1000V-Tester/dp/B004B9C7N4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495461257&sr=8-2&keywords=mains+electric+detector)
You could use it to check where the cables are live.
Never ever trust one of those yokes. Absolutely terrible device that no one should ever use especially one that costs £4.99.
I have one that costs €50 and I still wouldn't trust it 100%
I've see them before tell me a circuit is dead only for the circuit to be still energised.
Quote from: Frank_The_Tank on May 22, 2017, 03:02:02 PM
Yeah dog is fine - there was no power going to the outdoor lights at the time. You could be right on the wire where it was chewed being the issue and it is just shorting any new fuse. I think getting an electrician is the best bet - it's not really something I want to DIY which probably wasn't the greatest thread title - if it was just replacing fuses I could do that - anything more than that would get a professional
You should really have more adequate protection on your shed than a 30 amp fuse. You should have your Electrician install a sub board in the shed and install RCD protection on the socket circuits and separate the lighting circuits from the others.
Quote from: laoislad on May 22, 2017, 03:09:32 PM
Quote from: Frank_The_Tank on May 22, 2017, 03:02:02 PM
Yeah dog is fine - there was no power going to the outdoor lights at the time. You could be right on the wire where it was chewed being the issue and it is just shorting any new fuse. I think getting an electrician is the best bet - it's not really something I want to DIY which probably wasn't the greatest thread title - if it was just replacing fuses I could do that - anything more than that would get a professional
You should really have more adequate protection on your shed than a 30 amp fuse. You should have your Electrician install a sub board in the shed and install RCD protection on the socket circuits and separate the lighting circuits from the others.
Cheers for tha advice - will mention that to the spark
And while your at it I'd get him to upgrade the fuse box in the house. No one should have old type fuses in this day and age.
Where you based?
I get asked alot from insurance companies and county councils to do Electrical surveys on houses that are up for sale or rent. If I see an old type fuse board I'll fail it straight away,though you don't really see them much anymore.
Quote from: laoislad on May 22, 2017, 03:24:04 PM
And while your at it I'd get him to upgrade the fuse box in the house. No one should have old type fuses in this day and age.
Where you based?
I get asked alot from insurance companies and county councils to do Electrical surveys on houses that are up for sale or rent. If I see an old type fuse board I'll fail it straight away,though you don't really see them much anymore.
Based in county tyrone - the fusebox I have is very similar to the one in this link - https://www.diynot.com/diy/media/fuse-box.54243/
Cant work out how to attach an image of my own on this forum - clicking insert image is just adding the img tag - rather than giving me a pop up to select a file. The house was built circa 2000. Is this the type of fuse box that you recommend replacing completely? There is a slot on mine labelled supply to garage which had a 30Amp fuse which is what I replaced
Quote from: Frank_The_Tank on May 22, 2017, 03:49:39 PM
Quote from: laoislad on May 22, 2017, 03:24:04 PM
And while your at it I'd get him to upgrade the fuse box in the house. No one should have old type fuses in this day and age.
Where you based?
I get asked alot from insurance companies and county councils to do Electrical surveys on houses that are up for sale or rent. If I see an old type fuse board I'll fail it straight away,though you don't really see them much anymore.
Based in county tyrone - the fusebox I have is very similar to the one in this link - https://www.diynot.com/diy/media/fuse-box.54243/
Cant work out how to attach an image of my own on this forum - clicking insert image is just adding the img tag - rather than giving me a pop up to select a file. The house was built circa 2000. Is this the type of fuse box that you recommend replacing completely? There is a slot on mine labelled supply to garage which had a 30Amp fuse which is what I replaced
It's a modern version of an old board. I was more thinking of the old screw in neozed type fuseboards that were common here, like this
(http://www.onlinetradesperson.com/tradesmenimages/10668robmul7.jpg)
To be honest and this is in no way a dig at the North but the British electrical standards are way behind Irish standards imo. I've tested a hotel that a Northern Irish company wired in Dublin and I spent 2 months there afterwards bringing it up to Irish standards. The hotel was only built in 2006.
A board like that would never be installed in a domestic property down here. There really is no need for fuses when you have modern MCBs. They only place you would install a fuse is on the Main breaker.
If your board is like that and has an RCD then at least you have that protection and in reality the board is fine but as I said it's just not what would be used here. I've been a Electrician for 22 years and have never installed a board like that but safety wise you're ok.
Quote from: laoislad on May 22, 2017, 03:58:28 PM
/quote]
It's a modern version of an old board. I was more thinking of the old screw in neozed type fuseboards that were common here, like this
Those fuses were never used in the North, or not commonly, they were the 26 county standard of a generation ago.
IMHO they were still better than the NI fuse wire setup.
Quote from: armaghniac on May 22, 2017, 04:34:56 PM
Quote from: laoislad on May 22, 2017, 03:58:28 PM
/quote]
It's a modern version of an old board. I was more thinking of the old screw in neozed type fuseboards that were common here, like this
Those fuses were never used in the North, or not commonly, they were the 26 county standard of a generation ago.
IMHO they were still better than the NI fuse wire setup.
The problem with them is they could easily be bypassed. I've seen people put bolts in the fuse holder instead of a fuse!
What size current would it take to blow a steel bolt!!!
Or people would also put coins into the fuse holder to bridge the gap if the fuse didn't fit because they were using the wrong size fuse for the circuit.
You wouldn't believe some of the things I've seen and the chances people have taken with electricity.
Quote from: laoislad on May 22, 2017, 04:42:00 PM
You wouldn't believe some of the things I've seen and the chances people have taken with electricity.
I would believe anything in this respect.
However, in the 26 counties the fuses were readily available and it was easy enough to get the right fuse if you were half inclined to make an effort.
Quote from: laoislad on May 22, 2017, 04:42:00 PM
You wouldn't believe some of the things I've seen and the chances people have taken with electricity.
My favourite is the old free juice method used by some farmers back in the day. The would drive two 4-inch nails into the incoming supply cables, live and neutral, before the meter. Attach a pair of jump leads and all outdoor machinery and equipment was powered by the ESB free of charge.
I've finally cracked and agreed to strip two rooms of wallpaper. It's been there 16 years +.
1. hire a machine...I've read it can take lumps out of wall
2. Spray water and some washing up liquid on to paper leave soak and start scraping.
3. Leave well enough alone...is not an option
Please help
Option 4...pay someone to do it for you...Sorted.
Quote from: gerrykeegan on July 15, 2020, 01:02:20 PM
I've finally cracked and agreed to strip two rooms of wallpaper. It's been there 16 years +.
1. hire a machine...I've read it can take lumps out of wall
2. Spray water and some washing up liquid on to paper leave soak and start scraping.
3. Leave well enough alone...is not an option
Please help
use a steam machine
Just paper over it!
I used to laugh when we stripped the walls in my mums house, it was like going back in time when remembering the different wallpaper that used to be up!
Quote from: gerrykeegan on July 15, 2020, 01:02:20 PM
I've finally cracked and agreed to strip two rooms of wallpaper. It's been there 16 years +.
1. hire a machine...I've read it can take lumps out of wall
2. Spray water and some washing up liquid on to paper leave soak and start scraping.
3. Leave well enough alone...is not an option
Please help
Hot water and washing up liquid. Comes off handy enough once you start it. It's one of them jobs that sounds worse than it actually is.
Before it cost me a few bob, no hot water in house, oil based heating, radiators on and pumping, water tank in attic full, not sure if thermostat on boiler is the problem, but video mentions diverter valve?
Can't locate it, not in hot press area I don't think or at piping under stairs. Any other locations?
Been trying to get a plumber, feck any plumber for past few months for few jobs around the house, but availability is few and far between
Its was the motorized valve when I had the same symptoms ..... have you something like this on the pipework going into the hot water tank?
https://www.screwfix.com/p/honeywell-home-40003916-001-2-port-v4043h-replacement-powerhead/326fv (https://www.screwfix.com/p/honeywell-home-40003916-001-2-port-v4043h-replacement-powerhead/326fv)
Was an easy fix (no plumber required) in my case
## Before I got my hands on the replacement part I remember removing it from the pipework so I could manually open the valve to allow hot water into the tank but you'll need to be mindful about closing it again at some point when the water is hot enough (take picture of the close position before doing it)
Quote from: theskull1 on April 17, 2024, 07:41:46 AMIts was the motorized valve when I had the same symptoms ..... have you something like this on the pipework going into the hot water tank?
https://www.screwfix.com/p/honeywell-home-40003916-001-2-port-v4043h-replacement-powerhead/326fv (https://www.screwfix.com/p/honeywell-home-40003916-001-2-port-v4043h-replacement-powerhead/326fv)
Was an easy fix (no plumber required) in my case
## Before I got my hands on the replacement part I remember removing it from the pipework so I could manually open the valve to allow hot water into the tank but you'll need to be mindful about closing it again at some point when the water is hot enough (take picture of the close position before doing it)
There's a wee manual override switch at the bottom of those, which you can force it open with.
If that doesn't work there's also a pump that may not be working as they can stick every once in a while. You can release them with a bit of a thump or change the speed setting, but ultimately it'll need changed.
(https://media.screwfix.com/is/image/ae235/74599_P?$fxSharpen$=&wid=257&hei=257&dpr=on)
Quote from: theskull1 on April 17, 2024, 07:41:46 AMIts was the motorized valve when I had the same symptoms ..... have you something like this on the pipework going into the hot water tank?
https://www.screwfix.com/p/honeywell-home-40003916-001-2-port-v4043h-replacement-powerhead/326fv (https://www.screwfix.com/p/honeywell-home-40003916-001-2-port-v4043h-replacement-powerhead/326fv)
Was an easy fix (no plumber required) in my case
## Before I got my hands on the replacement part I remember removing it from the pipework so I could manually open the valve to allow hot water into the tank but you'll need to be mindful about closing it again at some point when the water is hot enough (take picture of the close position before doing it)
Not sure, that fecker was up at the streak of dawn using all the water before waking me up to have a look, she sort of noticed last night saying the water was not as warm for he bath, but the heat came on and I was saying should be grand!!
There is water in the tank up in the loft
I can't find where that valve would go tbh, could it be in the garage where the boiler would be? Did a quick check before leaving for work! Nothing jumped out at me to resemble that.
Johnny that image looks the pump at boiler in garage. I'll look later
Sure an aul country cold shower does ya no harm ;D
So you have heat in the rads but no HW?
Danfoss is sometimes a motorised valve manufacturer, if you photograph the serial numbers it's a reference to purchase replacements.
The electrical part alone should be what needs replaced but most times you have to buy the mechanical part, it should need changed.
Quote from: Last Man on April 17, 2024, 09:18:58 AMSo you have heat in the rads but no HW?
Aye, rads pumping hot, The boiler in fairness hasn't had a check up in a few years, some parts were replaced a while back, was just looking a quick temp fix till I get someone to have a quick assessment on it, she's said someone might call this evening but I'll not hold my breath
Quote from: Milltown Row2 on April 17, 2024, 09:31:23 AMQuote from: Last Man on April 17, 2024, 09:18:58 AMSo you have heat in the rads but no HW?
Aye, rads pumping hot, The boiler in fairness hasn't had a check up in a few years, some parts were replaced a while back, was just looking a quick temp fix till I get someone to have a quick assessment on it, she's said someone might call this evening but I'll not hold my breath
If heating working don't think it's a boiler issue as it's obviously firing. More likely a motorised value or pump issue.
We have an issue with a pump every winter. Pump was clogged as heating wasn't on in house over summer and had to remove and manually spin to release it as it had seized. Easy to do, Allan keys to remove and then screwdriver to spin the pump/ loosen it.
*Edit Make sure water shut off before removing tho!!
Quote from: sensethetone on April 17, 2024, 09:21:47 AMDanfoss is sometimes a motorised valve manufacturer, if you photograph the serial numbers it's a reference to purchase replacements.
The electrical part alone should be what needs replaced but most times you have to buy the mechanical part, it should need changed.
Indeed, I was able to get a new valve head on Amazon, having identified the old one. That wasn't the problem though, the valve itself was stuck.
Quote from: Milltown Row2 on April 17, 2024, 09:31:23 AMQuote from: Last Man on April 17, 2024, 09:18:58 AMSo you have heat in the rads but no HW?
Aye, rads pumping hot, The boiler in fairness hasn't had a check up in a few years, some parts were replaced a while back, was just looking a quick temp fix till I get someone to have a quick assessment on it, she's said someone might call this evening but I'll not hold my breath
Is your heating timer 2 channel i.e. separate buttons for HW and heating? If so there is a motorised valve somewhere. If your copper cylinder is upstairs it usually would be prioritised by convection (along with the upstairs rads) unless your motorised valve is foobarred which seems most likely at this stage.
It was the pump that heats the water that's fecked!
So at the the boiler there are two pumps one for the rads and the other for heating the water.
If the spindle isn't spinning then the motor isn't working and that was the case, I said can ya fix it? nope, its a throw away world, ya need a new one
The plumber said that the water should still warm up though, it isn't, anyways I've been doing the Wim Hof experience for the last 3 days!
Quote from: Milltown Row2 on April 19, 2024, 09:55:37 AMIt was the pump that heats the water that's fecked!
So at the the boiler there are two pumps one for the rads and the other for heating the water.
If the spindle isn't spinning then the motor isn't working and that was the case, I said can ya fix it? nope, its a throw away world, ya need a new one
The plumber said that the water should still warm up though, it isn't, anyways I've been doing the Wim Hof experience for the last 3 days!
Pretty sure the pump doesn't heat the water ;)
From my limited plumbing experience.
Quote from: NAG1 on April 19, 2024, 10:07:25 AMQuote from: Milltown Row2 on April 19, 2024, 09:55:37 AMIt was the pump that heats the water that's fecked!
So at the the boiler there are two pumps one for the rads and the other for heating the water.
If the spindle isn't spinning then the motor isn't working and that was the case, I said can ya fix it? nope, its a throw away world, ya need a new one
The plumber said that the water should still warm up though, it isn't, anyways I've been doing the Wim Hof experience for the last 3 days!
Pretty sure the pump doesn't heat the water ;)
From my limited plumbing experience.
That's probably my bad on the explaining part. More so the pump that pumps the water to the cylinder in the hot press?
Either way the pump needs replaced lol
To be fair he was a bit confused on why it still wasn't heating the water.
Fingers crossed that it will be solved today, at some point maybe next week who knows with tradesmen
I started out after school as YTP with the housing executive when I left school doing plumbing, at that time all the executives houses were having central heating installed around Belfast, the lure of more money as an apprentice at a different trade elsewhere was too much (at the time) to refuse!
Must be serious money to be made as a decent tradesperson considering the lack of them about
Quote from: Milltown Row2 on April 19, 2024, 09:55:37 AMIt was the pump that heats the water that's fecked!
So at the the boiler there are two pumps one for the rads and the other for heating the water.
If the spindle isn't spinning then the motor isn't working and that was the case, I said can ya fix it? nope, its a throw away world, ya need a new one
The plumber said that the water should still warm up though, it isn't, anyways I've been doing the Wim Hof experience for the last 3 days!
Did the pump look like this?
(https://media.screwfix.com/is/image/ae235/74599_P?$fxSharpen$=&wid=257&hei=257&dpr=on)
I've three of these feckers in the house and one will need replaced.
There's isolating valves either side of it, so toying with the idea of doing it myself, but as they're in the hotpress and don't want to make a balls of it.
Quote from: johnnycool on April 19, 2024, 10:52:13 AMQuote from: Milltown Row2 on April 19, 2024, 09:55:37 AMIt was the pump that heats the water that's fecked!
So at the the boiler there are two pumps one for the rads and the other for heating the water.
If the spindle isn't spinning then the motor isn't working and that was the case, I said can ya fix it? nope, its a throw away world, ya need a new one
The plumber said that the water should still warm up though, it isn't, anyways I've been doing the Wim Hof experience for the last 3 days!
Did the pump look like this?
(https://media.screwfix.com/is/image/ae235/74599_P?$fxSharpen$=&wid=257&hei=257&dpr=on)
I've three of these feckers in the house and one will need replaced.
There's isolating valves either side of it, so toying with the idea of doing it myself, but as they're in the hotpress and don't want to make a balls of it.
That's the one, I've two, but that they are in the garage...
Unscrewing that copper nut in the middle let me know that it wasn't spinning inside, after that I was stumped
I've a mate that loves all that DIY stuff, the easy stuff I've no problems with, But I know if I try and remove that and replace it there will be problems, pipes will need replaced and threads will be fecked and whatever else would go wrong will, with me.
Quote from: Milltown Row2 on April 19, 2024, 11:35:42 AMQuote from: johnnycool on April 19, 2024, 10:52:13 AMQuote from: Milltown Row2 on April 19, 2024, 09:55:37 AMIt was the pump that heats the water that's fecked!
So at the the boiler there are two pumps one for the rads and the other for heating the water.
If the spindle isn't spinning then the motor isn't working and that was the case, I said can ya fix it? nope, its a throw away world, ya need a new one
The plumber said that the water should still warm up though, it isn't, anyways I've been doing the Wim Hof experience for the last 3 days!
Did the pump look like this?
(https://media.screwfix.com/is/image/ae235/74599_P?$fxSharpen$=&wid=257&hei=257&dpr=on)
I've three of these feckers in the house and one will need replaced.
There's isolating valves either side of it, so toying with the idea of doing it myself, but as they're in the hotpress and don't want to make a balls of it.
That's the one, I've two, but that they are in the garage...
Unscrewing that copper nut in the middle let me know that it wasn't spinning inside, after that I was stumped
I've a mate that loves all that DIY stuff, the easy stuff I've no problems with, But I know if I try and remove that and replace it there will be problems, pipes will need replaced and threads will be fecked and whatever else would go wrong will, with me.
Turn that pump on and go to the garage.
Give it a gentle tap with a hammer to see if that frees it up and if that doesn't work there's a wee red dial for the speed settings, it's normally set to the middle speed, but change it to the top speed and that might free it up as well.
It'll still need replace one way or the other, but at least you'll get some hot water for a day or two
Quote from: johnnycool on April 19, 2024, 11:42:32 AMQuote from: Milltown Row2 on April 19, 2024, 11:35:42 AMQuote from: johnnycool on April 19, 2024, 10:52:13 AMQuote from: Milltown Row2 on April 19, 2024, 09:55:37 AMIt was the pump that heats the water that's fecked!
So at the the boiler there are two pumps one for the rads and the other for heating the water.
If the spindle isn't spinning then the motor isn't working and that was the case, I said can ya fix it? nope, its a throw away world, ya need a new one
The plumber said that the water should still warm up though, it isn't, anyways I've been doing the Wim Hof experience for the last 3 days!
Did the pump look like this?
(https://media.screwfix.com/is/image/ae235/74599_P?$fxSharpen$=&wid=257&hei=257&dpr=on)
I've three of these feckers in the house and one will need replaced.
There's isolating valves either side of it, so toying with the idea of doing it myself, but as they're in the hotpress and don't want to make a balls of it.
That's the one, I've two, but that they are in the garage...
Unscrewing that copper nut in the middle let me know that it wasn't spinning inside, after that I was stumped
I've a mate that loves all that DIY stuff, the easy stuff I've no problems with, But I know if I try and remove that and replace it there will be problems, pipes will need replaced and threads will be fecked and whatever else would go wrong will, with me.
Turn that pump on and go to the garage.
Give it a gentle tap with a hammer to see if that frees it up and if that doesn't work there's a wee red dial for the speed settings, it's normally set to the middle speed, but change it to the top speed and that might free it up as well.
It'll still need replace one way or the other, but at least you'll get some hot water for a day or two
Aye, will give that a go if the boyo hasn't changed it by the time I get home! Will have to put my prices up for refereeing ;)