Building a house

Started by JimStynes, February 26, 2011, 04:19:56 PM

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lfdown2

Quote from: trueblue1234 on July 08, 2017, 09:02:31 AM
I went with 250 with pumped insulation. Don't forget the floor as well. It costs more inthe initial build stage but money well spent. Speak to your glazier as well regarding air tightness.

What would be the reason for going 250 cavity? Would a higher uvalue blown insulation have the same effect in a 150 cavity (assuming the benefit of the extra width is to increase the uvalue)

Quote from: Owen Brannigan on July 08, 2017, 09:41:04 AM
Check the overall cost of the underfloor heating before proceeding, it is expensive.  Most put it just on the ground floor so consider that radiators would probably be used upstairs. Similarly, the ground heat source is expensive compared to a small oil or wood boiler required for a max insulation build. 

A good heat exchange system is essential when you go for max air tightness.  A cheaper system can be inefficient and noisy.  Talk to people who have installed one, the key is the type of piping used and the ability of installers.

Are you going for a block build?

Yes, block build.

Thanks for all the advice lads

trueblue1234

Quote from: lfdown2 on July 10, 2017, 08:55:38 AM
Quote from: trueblue1234 on July 08, 2017, 09:02:31 AM
I went with 250 with pumped insulation. Don't forget the floor as well. It costs more inthe initial build stage but money well spent. Speak to your glazier as well regarding air tightness.

What would be the reason for going 250 cavity? Would a higher uvalue blown insulation have the same effect in a 150 cavity (assuming the benefit of the extra width is to increase the uvalue)

Quote from: Owen Brannigan on July 08, 2017, 09:41:04 AM
Check the overall cost of the underfloor heating before proceeding, it is expensive.  Most put it just on the ground floor so consider that radiators would probably be used upstairs. Similarly, the ground heat source is expensive compared to a small oil or wood boiler required for a max insulation build. 

A good heat exchange system is essential when you go for max air tightness.  A cheaper system can be inefficient and noisy.  Talk to people who have installed one, the key is the type of piping used and the ability of installers.

Are you going for a block build?

Yes, block build.

Thanks for all the advice lads
If u want to PM me your email address I'll send you through a doc that we got done that might be worth a look. We got a guy in to advise and he gave a report. Nothing extra ordinary in it but few things that helped us.
Grammar: the difference between knowing your shit

lfdown2

Quote from: trueblue1234 on July 10, 2017, 12:54:31 PM
Quote from: lfdown2 on July 10, 2017, 08:55:38 AM
Quote from: trueblue1234 on July 08, 2017, 09:02:31 AM
I went with 250 with pumped insulation. Don't forget the floor as well. It costs more inthe initial build stage but money well spent. Speak to your glazier as well regarding air tightness.

What would be the reason for going 250 cavity? Would a higher uvalue blown insulation have the same effect in a 150 cavity (assuming the benefit of the extra width is to increase the uvalue)

Quote from: Owen Brannigan on July 08, 2017, 09:41:04 AM
Check the overall cost of the underfloor heating before proceeding, it is expensive.  Most put it just on the ground floor so consider that radiators would probably be used upstairs. Similarly, the ground heat source is expensive compared to a small oil or wood boiler required for a max insulation build. 

A good heat exchange system is essential when you go for max air tightness.  A cheaper system can be inefficient and noisy.  Talk to people who have installed one, the key is the type of piping used and the ability of installers.

Are you going for a block build?

Yes, block build.

Thanks for all the advice lads
If u want to PM me your email address I'll send you through a doc that we got done that might be worth a look. We got a guy in to advise and he gave a report. Nothing extra ordinary in it but few things that helped us.

done, cheers

DrinkingHarp

Is anyone sealing their block with a waterproofing seal?
Gaaboard Predict The World Cup Champion 2014

trueblue1234

Quote from: lfdown2 on July 11, 2017, 09:20:31 AM
Quote from: trueblue1234 on July 10, 2017, 12:54:31 PM
Quote from: lfdown2 on July 10, 2017, 08:55:38 AM
Quote from: trueblue1234 on July 08, 2017, 09:02:31 AM
I went with 250 with pumped insulation. Don't forget the floor as well. It costs more inthe initial build stage but money well spent. Speak to your glazier as well regarding air tightness.

What would be the reason for going 250 cavity? Would a higher uvalue blown insulation have the same effect in a 150 cavity (assuming the benefit of the extra width is to increase the uvalue)

Quote from: Owen Brannigan on July 08, 2017, 09:41:04 AM
Check the overall cost of the underfloor heating before proceeding, it is expensive.  Most put it just on the ground floor so consider that radiators would probably be used upstairs. Similarly, the ground heat source is expensive compared to a small oil or wood boiler required for a max insulation build. 

A good heat exchange system is essential when you go for max air tightness.  A cheaper system can be inefficient and noisy.  Talk to people who have installed one, the key is the type of piping used and the ability of installers.

Are you going for a block build?

Yes, block build.

Thanks for all the advice lads
If u want to PM me your email address I'll send you through a doc that we got done that might be worth a look. We got a guy in to advise and he gave a report. Nothing extra ordinary in it but few things that helped us.

done, cheers
I'll get that across on Thursday. It's on my work laptop!
Grammar: the difference between knowing your shit

Norf Tyrone

If you are renovating a house do you need to inform your insurance company?

It's a new house that we are moving into so this will be new insurance on it.
Owen Roe O'Neills GAC, Leckpatrick, Tyrone

Owen Brannigan

Quote from: DrinkingHarp on July 11, 2017, 10:44:24 AM
Is anyone sealing their block with a waterproofing seal?

Is it a cavity wall?

snoopdog

Lads in the process of buying a dormer bungalow . And looking to despise and put an xtension on the side. Already a nverted garage there but looking to go up a storey on the top.I'm in Dublin.  .  What would I expect to pay new architect to do plans for this. 

joebloggs

What paint brands would people recommend for a internal walls of a new build?

Longshanks

Joe we got a professional to do main hallway walls and he reccomends and only uses johnstones, now he uses the trade paint which costs more but seemingly a better kind but in general he says its better in his opinion

Tyrdub

Totally agree with this, Johnstones is the only paint i will spec on a job now

illdecide

I concur too. Johnstones trade paint
I can swim a little but i can't fly an inch

joebloggs

Cheers lads, checked out their site there and quite a few options. Looking to do a few walls and ceilings in a renovation so a mixture of newly plastered walls (some with dry lining some without) and old walls that have already been painted. Any particular types of paint I should look for, just going to do everywhere white for now.

Owen Brannigan

Quote from: joebloggs on July 25, 2017, 04:04:33 PM
Cheers lads, checked out their site there and quite a few options. Looking to do a few walls and ceilings in a renovation so a mixture of newly plastered walls (some with dry lining some without) and old walls that have already been painted. Any particular types of paint I should look for, just going to do everywhere white for now.

Agree with above and take care use only the trade paint. It is now the best available. Go to your nearest Johnstone's Trade Centre. The staff are really helpful.

Do not buy from Homebase, B&Q, etc as their Johnstones paint is not the same as from the Trade Centres.

For the new plaster use the standard white Matt emulsion (trade off course), add one third water to the pure paint to prime the walls. It will be quite thin and a bit difficult to use due to spray from roller bot an excellent sealer for such hot walls. Don't waste money on special primer.

On old walls and ceiling use Matt emulsion as a base coat with no dilution.  This will kill ant old colours and provide excellent base for next coats.  Two coats of Matt on the ceiling with no dilution.

For the walls you can have almost any colour from the Dulux card as well as Johnstones own card. So plenty of choice. They will mix it for you in the shop. 

The choice of finish is your own.  I have used the Matt on room walls where there is minimal traffic as it can be easily marked. Used the tough Matt on a staircase as it is still Matt to hide bumps in the plaster but scrubable and it is.  Used Vinyl eegshell in bathroom and part of a staircase for hard finish and wipeable. Used soft sheen on room walls but don't like it however it has finish some like and can be gently wiped clean.

Johnstones prices are good for trade paint but will appear dearer to store paint which is far inferior.

joebloggs

Excellent info, thanks.
Would hiring a sprayer be worthwhile if we were going to paint the whole house white to begin with?  Find painting tedious and would rather spend time taping up and bomb through the painting than spending days painting.